pparaska

Dave, you da MAN!

Maybe we are too fragmented with forums? Anyway, I posted this topic in the Ignition Forum: http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=14;t=000416 Please reply there.

They are pretty much vertical. I seriously doubt they do much but lighten your wallet, give you a new toy to show off to your friends, and add some weight. They'd have to be more diagonal across that area to do anything, unless there is some inherent weak spot in just that area, IMO.

Thanks for the plug, Mike. BTW, Mike has the same gage in his Z and we compared notes on how it works out. The Ford-type fuel gage with the Datsun sender can give you correct Empty and Full measurements, especially if you use my calibration technique. The problem is that a true 3/4 tank of fuel registers somewhere around 1/4 on the gage, and the last 1/4 to Empty range on the gage goes VERY SLOWLY. Any electronics wizards out there want to design us a circuit to go between the Ford-type gage and the Datsun sender, that will make the gage read better? I'd think that some op amps, etc. could be used to build a non-linear scaling circuit. I'm an ME, not an EE, so that's the extent of my knowledge.

O.k. My motor is sick (burns a qt every 500 miles) and the plugs get a bit fouled (getting better). But every time I pull the rotor cap, after replacing it 3-500 miles earlier, there is all kinds of carbon tracks on the underside all over the middle and the sides, marks on the weights and center post next to the weights, etc. I can't SEE any burn through holes, but there is definitely arcing going on. I know some rotors are better than other. I've tried NAPA, and others, but I'm wondering if the 45000 Volt coil (Accel Brute Thunder) in the cap is just too much. The wires measure down in the 10s of ohms (MSD 8.5), and I've tried resistor and non-resistor plugs. The plugs are pretty clean on the electrodes, etc., so they're not fouling causing this. The mark on the cap terminals on the inside of the cap have a small dot where you can see the spark is jumping from the rotor tip to the terminal. It's near, but not at one side of the terminal. Should I worry about this? Do I need a less powerful coil? Any leads on a rotor with thicker plastic, or plastic with higher dielectric strength?

Wow, This morning Mikelly puts his Z stuff up for sale, now Lone. Am I next?

I have a line on a used 700 cfm 4D system. Very much cheaper than that. It's missing a few things, but mostly there. Thanks for the offer of help!

Looking for a copy of: "Data Acquisition Software D Projection Systems, Di Projection Systems", P/N 534-71 This is an optional software package to do dataloging on a PC with the D and Di Holley Projection systems. It's one floppy: http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/FMS/FMSFIA/534-71.html

John, I bought one of your manuals. Only to see your frame stiffening method. If you decide to redo it, I say sell it. I'd hate to see you put a ton of work into it and have people just stealing it. We buy the JTR manual when we want to do a SBC into a Z. Cheap info, I say. Some information should just have to be bought. Without the incentive of making a few bucks to pay you for all your time to do it, good documentation won't always be forthcoming.

Grumpy that was a good article, too bad they didn't put the prices in. I wouldn't believe them anyway (they always get Deals on everything). The 355 that makes 509 hp is nice, but that cam, etc. makes it hardly streetable, IMO. The 406 has a huge wide torque curve, and would be my choice, money not a question. I'm still jumping back and forth between a cheaper 355 or a 400+ build for my next build. The block is the biggest factor, as I don't see the pistons being a big deal. I'd settle for Hypereutectics if I wasn't needing to spray or boost it. It seems some feel a 400 crank with radiused fillets is ok at a 450 hp level - I dunno.

Besides the half shafts, the stub axles, and especially the 240Z ones, become the weak link, not the R200.

Hmmm. Mr. Paraska, huh. O.k. Lone, I feel old now . Pete- looks good! I had no teachers for this stuff either. My dad just looked at me funny when I started cutting up the car and welding on it! I think it's easier to just use rectangular tubing, cut a wedge out, and weld it back together. Then put doubler plates over the welds, if you are worried. I did the slot in the floor as shown on my site for the drivers side. Lots of work. On the passenger side, I cut out the once replaced floors, and just put the subframe connector where I wanted it, then made up pieces of floor to go from the connector to the tunnel and the connector to the inner rocker panel, replacing all of the floor from the firewall back to behind the seat. Just make sure you hold the car up in several places in front of and behind the floor area you cut out. I used 8 jack stands, 4 in front of the firewall, 4 behind the seat area. I shimmed them all up so the car's weight was somewhat evenly distributed on them. Well, that was a good plan, but the body shop that subsequently put rocker panels and 1/4s on the car had to tie the car down and bend it into shape to get everything to line up! Not sure if it was me doing the frame work, or the wreck the car was in before I even got it (rear of the car got smacked good). Anyway, it's good to see a novice like I was just jump in and go for it!

Another non-US car / SBC Hybrid: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1863735468

I have a 327 in my Z. If I were to do it again, it'd be at least a 383 sbc, if not a 391, 400, 421, 427, or 434 sbc. More cubes equals more usable street torque, and that's what makes pushing the do pedal while cruising feel good.

I slaved as a dirt slinging laborer when I was 14 in a plant nursery. 15, I got a job as a gass station attendent (back when they had no pumps w/ card readers and the pump jockey was out there rain, snow, cold, hot collecting cash, writing up CC receipts, checking oil, washing windows) Then I worked as a landscaper for my girlfriends father. And on and on. Got enough money to buy a 70 Camaro in 79, my Junior HS year. Alot of jocks envied that, as mostly the kids drove their parent's BEATER or bought their own car. Jocks were good a sports since they were spending after school hours on the field, I went and made CASH. Anyway, one of the great things about getting a job you is that you get to learn a good work ethic, if your employer has the balls to expect and demand it of you. That is a life long virtue. Another thing is that you have jobs on your resume' and references for when you get a "real" job. Keep you stuff together, work hard, do what's expected and more and your employer will reward you with more pay (hopefully) and good references. Keep looking. I like the apprentice idea!

Tim, no steak bones . No used toilet paper rolls either. BTW, I save WW fluid, antifreeze and plastic milk jugs for oil recycling transport. (Aspergers - I know about that one. My son has many of it's sympoms. Freaky weird obsessions. You definitely have to re-adjust your level of acceptable behavior when around somebody with that! ) Every time I throw something I think might be useful out, I find an application for it within the next week.

Now, now. We all know beauty is in the eye of the beholder. And don't forget, there's NO accounting (system) for taste! (Of course, if I were to use my system on that car...the result would be in the red, where as using the owners system would be way in the black.) To each his own, thank goodness - he can keep that!

Dude, you should see my garage and basement. I throw NOTHING away. Worn out parts, scrap, twist ties from toy packaging, boxes, packing material, wire, any piece of metal I could POSSIBLY make something out of. I still have my L6, 4spd, the complete exhaust, a set of 73 carbs I could put on, etc. Never know when the smog nazi's will want to start smogging my 73! Throw it out, are you crazy!?

Jaime - you funny I am a student of life. 40 yrs old and the older I get the more I learn and the more I find out there IS to learn. I is a student of Jaime and Mike - they said "do a double pumper" and I finally listened

For my car: Outside of front tire sidewall to opposite sidewall: 64" Outside of front tire sidewall to opposite sidewall: 64.5" Front tires/wheels: 17x8.5" (142mm backspacing), 235/45-17 Rear tires/wheels: 17x9" (149mm backspacing), 255/45-17 (Note that a 1/2" thick brake rotor hat is on the stub axle, pushing out the mounting surface for the wheel by the difference in the 1/2" hat and the stock drum thickness at the hub.)

Todd, I don't think it much matters if you run the Big white or Big white/red wire to the positive battery cable side of the solenoid, or the alternator output. In fact, use a big wire from the alt output (with the proper fusible link or fuse) to the positive battery cable on the solenoid. The less drop the better.

Notice, I left the word "Hemi" out of my recommendation - for just that reason.

Of course, if you want to go really over the top: http://mywebpages.comcast.net/pparaska/MichaelOlsBBZ.htm

Check out the wheels & tires page on my site. That's the biggest tire (in 17 or below) you can put in a stock fendered 240-280Z.

The engineering is top notch, over the top stuff that you hardly ever see. Totally bizarre and beautiful work! I'm floored!