pparaska

The GT Mustang fan I have pulls 35 amps on high. I chose to just use two 40 AMP relays in parallel, to share the load. This has worked well. I also used 8 gage wire to the battery cable ground, and 8 gage from the battery cable (at the Ford Starter contactor) and from the Alt output (with 12 gage fusible links). 8 gage affords me neglible voltage drop, higher fan speed, etc. The Chiltons manual for the Mustang shows the use of a 60 amp fuse. I'd imagine this is because the fan draws a good bit more than 35 amps as it's starting and even a slow blow fuse 40 amp may burn out. I used a 60 Amp maxi-fuse BTW, swept (curved) fan blades are more efficient. Noise is energy loss. A fan with properly designed swept blades will pull more air than a straight bladed fan for a given fan torque and speed. If it's noisier, it's also less efficient in turning motor torque into air flow. If a fan is noisy, it's giving up some of it's energy to create noise and is therefore less efficient and will produce less air flow.

I have the S03s on my Eclipse AWD and I LOVE them. Very sticky for a street tire. Heck, they usually have stuff stuck to them when I look . I'll probably put S03s on my Z.

Andy, sorry the hear about the CV. You mean on the Z or the DSM? Get my email about updating my 1/4 mile times from years to seconds?

On that note, the 400 main world block are NYA. ANy advice on whether using a 350 main block would be better? I'd imagine 350 main 3.75 stroke cranks might be easier to find anyway. Any bad news about the World Block?

Hmm. I see the Dart block has the raised cam, requires a non-OE pan, etc. I'm thinking the World block (084031) might be the better way to go.

Thanks, grump, I know the new Dart block is a much better way to go. Too bad it's $1900 for one! I looked at the rotating assemblies on that page. Hopefully they can put a lower compression kit together for a 400. But if it comes down to $3K for a camless short block, I guess that's not HORRIBLE. My reading about speedomotive here was the main reason not to go with them. Topless: Greedy for more power, yes. And doubtful that my rings will ever re-seat after the recent 2000 mile cylinder wash down. But I've been thinking about more cubes and a bit more sedate engine with a 1500-5500 power band for a while. The 327 was enough to walk on an M3 the other night, but its just not the barn burner I want.

Awesome, Tim! Sounds like you had it all in the car and fit it nice and tight?! Can you say Jet-Hot?

I'm on the hunt for the following: 400+ SBC short block. no more than 10.5:1 compression, with 64 cc heads and .040" gasket. Capable of 450+ hp. 2 bolt or converted to splayed 4 bolt block. Scat 9000 or better crank. Hypereutectic or forged pistons. (probably 10-20cc dish) No cam, timing chain/gears, oil pump, pan needed. ARP rod bolts. Just block/caps, main bolts/studs, bearings, crank, rods, pistons, rings. Assembled or disassembled. This needs to be reasonbly priced. Not sure of my budget yet, but it's not much. Any leads appreciated. I'd rather go with a known good local builder than speed-o-motive, etc. Grumpyvette, any advice appreciated.

Grab these (the .pdf's) while they're available! http://66.96.130.106/archives/2002/09/transmissions/index.shtml

After the half shafts, the next weak link are the stub axles. 280Z stubs fit in a 240Z with no fuss and are a bit stronger.

Just a datapoint. My Tremec has 3000 miles on it and it shifts fairly nicely. And I've gotten used to it surely. To me, it's not a problem at all, and I've yet to miss a gear. I'd agree that the .50 overdrive is probably not very useful if you have a lopey cam, etc. But heck, just use the first 5 and be done with it!

IF I kept it to a Z, it'd be my 240Z, with a C5 suspension front and rear, C5 6 spd transaxle, Lingenfelter 427 LS6 w/Twin Turbos. Other than that, I'd just buy a McLaren F1 and be done with it. I like the idea of buying your own interstate - no tickets!

This is common. Most of us that run into this just cut the corner off the GM mount so it clears. Have fun! Pete

Lone, if you're going budget EFI, look at the Megasquirt. $125 for the kit, get a buddy to solder it up, and get a TB, sensors, etc. Cheaper than a Commander 950, tunable, lots of "free" support with a users group. Only problem is its DIY and only does the injection, not ignition. This is what I'm doing (but with TBI) in the near future.

We kind of stole a thread on the CHevy V8 forum, so I started this one. We were talking about the Megasquirt EFI computer. Cheap, looks pretty tunable, and can run closed loop. It's only set up for a MAP though. jeromio was asking what I was going to use as a TB for the TBI I'm putting together. First, I was going to get a new Holley Throttle Body: http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/FMS/FMSFI/502-6.html I realize it's a bit small. But I'm thinking it might be enough. It's about $312 in Jegs. That includes sensors, I'm pretty sure! The other option from Holley is this: http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/FMS/FMSFIA/500-15.html 700 cfm, and this is the one that goes with the Commander 950 TBI kit that's rated for up to 400 hp. $700 though! The other option is just get a JY one. Like Lone pointed out, one off of a 454 truck might be the ticket. Probably rare though. Then there's Dave Spillman's Holley TBI system. If it fits my needs, I'll just by that. Plug and play would be nice. I could always hook the Megasquirt to that.

Check out a new thread on this in the EFI forum. Hate to steal this one anymore.

Yes, this is the "simpler" project that came out of the DIY-EFI effort. There's a more advanced EFI332 one with ignition control, etc. You could do a separate ignition computer (Holley, others) and have both being programmable.

I have one wired in now, and it's installed inside the car for me to use as a safety device and an anti-theft device. It just disconnects the big battery cable, and the alternator would continue to let the car run. The second one I'd put in would be for drag strip purposes, and wire in the alternator output cutout part as well. The issue with the remote switch that does disconnect the alternator output separately from the battery and the electrical system is that you end up running alot of alternator output wire to do it. I'd use at least 8 gage if I were to run the alt output all the way back to the remote switch.

Tell ya what guys, I'd not mind at all seeing how long it took to get to the point of being tired of putting up with it!

Tim, good point. Problem is I run a circuit strat from my alternator to the headlights and the fan, plus another to the batter, both with fusible links. I guess I'd have to be careful for sneak circuits if I just ran the charge wire as you say.

I'd not used Rain-X in years, but Mike kZ put some on my windsheild before our drive from Atlanta to Montgomery. Great stuff, just have to keep putting it on.

I'm getting ready to install a remote battery cut off switch. I bought the heavy duty Moroso one, with the alternator cut out, and a lever/rod extention kit for it. I'm going to need to lengthen the rod that activates the switch, as I want to mount the switch right next to the battery box where the pos wire comes out. That's right at the front of the package shelf in my car. If you do a switch with a remote rod/lever setup, the switch is away from the back of the car and the issue of sheetmetal shorting it goes away. Plus I plan to only run the rod out the back when at the track. Although I'm using 2 gage wire for the battery (never been a problem, but my battery is just behind the passenger seat on the package shelf), I run 8 gage for the alternator. You don't want voltage drop from the alternator to the battery or the battery won't ever get a full charge from it. I'd go 8 gage at least with a remote battery switch setup, as your going to have 10 plus feet of wire between the alternator and the battery, unless you use a relay. And a 100 amp relay is not small. Probably the easiest thing to do is just use another Ford remote "solenoid" contactor and have the alternator terminals on the remote cutoff switch operate that. Mount the Ford contactor between the alternator and the battery so you aren't adding more length to the high current charging wire. Let the 18 gage wire from the battery cutoff switch to the Ford contactor's "start" terminal be long instead.

CHeck out this info: http://mywebpages.comcast.net/pparaska/wheelstires.htm Just take into account the thickness of your rotor hat or drum at the mating surface, subtract it from 1/2" and add that number to the 149mm backspacing of my wheels to find the backspacing needed to make 17x9s fit. Note that 8" coilovers are needed if you section the strut 1.5", but 10" might just fit if you don't section.

Guys, take a look at the results of the southeast Z shootout, and you'll see a 6 can run darned good! TT L6, or GN V6, or a Z31 or Z32 Turbo. The V8's there ran good, but not as fast. I'm sure that's because of a small sampling - there are known 9 second V8Zs, and some streetable 10 and 11 second ones too. Me, I like the V8. But for reasons other than drag racing. I wanted an old-school hotrod with a beautiful body style that handled well. Hopefully I'll get the engine straighted out a bit more (working on a CHEAP EFI setup now) and fix the suspension in the rear (less camber) and get some softer tires on (they're 6 years old and HARD) and practice my launch and be able to get into the 12s like I think the car should be able to do. 12s will be fine, thanks. One thing a smaller turbo motor won't do for you is give that deep, lopey exhaust note. To me, that's worth alot too. You wouldn't believe the people who came to look at my car in the gas stations on my trip when they heard it roll in. A quiet turbo motor just won't get that attention, even if it is faster. It's the total package and what you want out of it. They're all correct choices - just different.

Needed: 1/4s rockers (outer) rockers (inner front and rear portions) roof (back edge perforated) bottom of tool box firewall near inner fender / battery floors numerous little places behind the rear wheels inboard of the fenders Stuff I've forgotten (or blocked out!), for sure Shells are cheap in the SW, and transporting is usually less than a grand. You'd easily save that if the car was as bad as mine, or probably not even as bad.