pparaska

Just make sure you get a really good flaring tool. The $60 one that Eastwood, etc. sells is NOT what you want. My experience is that there are quite a few places in the distribution blocks, etc. that won't allow good thread engagement with the "nosed" fittings that ClassicTube has. Get the non-nosed fittings.

If you install according to JTR (jagsthatrun.com), then yes, just bolt on the Hooker PN2100 block hugger and you're good to go. Just make sure you tell them to jog the head pipe around on the drivers side so you can pull the oil filter out. Easy to do, but it's an extra bend. And tell them you want it UP TIGHT TO THE BODY!

Man, beautiful stuff. Makes me want to redo my car with an R230. Nah, my wimpy little 327 won't break the R200/CVs anyway . That pinion is nice and low in the car and should really help keep the u-joint angles low! SHWEET!

Roughly 3700 rpm at 70 for a 197/70-14 which is the stock tire diameter. Try this: http://www.corral.net/tech/gearcalc.html and select 4th gear for any of the 5 speeds listed there to give you a 1:1 ratio, like the top gear of the Turbo 350. BTW, 3700 rpm is going to really suck on the highway!

You must mean Nodular Iron (GM). It's a pretty light piece - I have that in my car. If you have the bucks, do billet - stronger. Plus it'll likely be SFI rated, if that's important to you. Personally, with my lumpy cam, I kind of wonder if a heavier flywheel would have been better.

Rush - just about anything fast off of 2112, but most notably Red Barchetta. I damn near go a speeding ticket in my Z one night getting into that one. Many years ago. Any fast Zeppelin, Aerosmith, Stone Temple, Steppenwolf, Sammy Haggar, ZZTop, Nirvana.

Well, I'm not going to refute any of that, Mike. But I just hate it when somebody starts going nuts about wheel bearing wear because someone used spacers, regardless of where the contact patch goes. My comments about needing a bolt on spacer instead of a slip on have to do with OE type studs. I agree, put large (7/16" or 1/2") ARP studs in and you've probably got a factor of safety in the 3-5 range for most apps!

Thanks guys, you are too kind! Now to get back in the garage and put it back on the car! (Had to take the Tremec 5spd out for the second time in a month and a half to fix a leak! GRRR! )

Read this: http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=001582 How about brake pad material buildup on the rotors?

That has got to be the most incredible driving I've ever seen! Just watching those cars react to inputs put goose bumps all over! Who says there's no passing in F1!? I don't know how much time was cut out of that video, but I counted 4 passes!

It sounds like you might have the idiot light connected to the sensing terminal and not the field terminal, like it's supposed to be. The circuit should be: Battery + terminal to idiot light to field terminal The field terminal is near ground when the alternator is not turning or charging, but it's near battery voltage when it's turning and/or charging. So if it's charging, the idiot light has near battery + voltage on both sides of the filament, and doesn't light. If it's not charging, then the field side of the filament is near ground, and the battery + side is near battery voltage and the light will be on.

Tomahawk Z, please, go read this thread: http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=001578 Which features this thread: http://www.240z.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=14862#post14862 It debunks your blanket statement: That'd only be true if you moved the tire contact patch center away from the stock location to a large degree, ignoring differences in tire width. Potterma is correct - adding thick slip on spacers is a bad idea, but that has nothing to do with the bearings of the TOTAL wheel/spacer offset issue in those threads - it has to do with bending stresses being imparted to the wheel studs.

Wow, there are MANY different approaches to this one. Most people here seem to do a 2.5" dual into 3" single setup with a 3" muffler in the rear. Some add a muffler in the tunnel too. Block hugger headers are the norm, although some have done the "shorty" short tube headers, with some difficulty. Some jsut do the cast iron manifolds, but generally a bolt in, and it's a good bit of weight too. My Z has 1-5/8" PN 2100 Hooker block hugger headers, 2.5" mandrel bent duals, 2.5" X-pipe, and two 2.5" Dynomax Hemi Super Turbo mufflers in the "stock" location. See more info and pics HERE. It took me over 80 hours on my back making that system from mandrel J-bends and straight pipe. Probably several hundred times getting out from under the car. I had to use a modified 280Z front diff crossmember to get the system up tight to the car. A labor of love. I absolutely LOVE the sound. It's a sound I am almost certain you can't get with a single system. Most of the unique character has to do with the X-pipe. Think "muffled NASCAR". It's not light, that's for sure. A dual into single system is much lighter, simpler to make, and easier to get ground clearance with. I'm just a glutton for punishment ;D.

Guys, the OE intercooler in that car (the first and for that matter second generation DSM turbos) is WAY too inefficient even for the stock boost/power levels. My 92 Eclipse GSX (AWD turbo) runs SO much better when it's a bit cooler than say 70 degrees. The power difference between a hot summer and a cold winter day is probably a good 30 hp. Too bad a good front mount is $1K+!

Thanks!

tdab, I also have a set of the cheap MSA covers. I put them on my Z when is was the 110 red/orange (persimmon) color, and I agree, I quickly took off the black rubber gaskets. Now with the the dark blue on my car, I guess the gaskets might not stand out as much. Do you have the gaskets still? I'd like to get a pair.

Looking for a good price on the O2 sensor, I found the following thread: http://www.quithel.co.uk/zz_Power_gen.htm Go down to "Wide Band Oxygen Sensor" and you'll find the following: Hmm. So when I get this thing built and installed, I'll have to remember to ry to do some near steady state eyeballing of the meter for cruise AFR. This kind of reaction time is going to make it difficult to size the accelerator pump squirter and/or cam, and I'll have to be careful to read between the lines when doing transition circuit tuning. I know you EFI guys are probably thinking I'm crazy, but I'm going to attempt to do what Paul R and Rick Johnson (see the latest Sport Z Mag) did - that is get a WB02 in the car and tweak the heck out of the Holley. There are four circuits in the primary side and four in the secondary side. I realize this is crude compared to EFI (and EFI does ignition optimization too), but if I can get close enough to optimal AFR for the idle, transition (throttle plates opening from idle and low rpm cruise), cruise, and WOT modes of carb operation, I'm thinking I may just forgo the EFI route, if not for just a little while. Rick and/or Paul R, care to post (maybe in new thread) some detailed descriptions of how to optimize all the circuits of a carb to get where I'm looking? After reading and re-reading about 4 books on Holley tuning, I've found out how to modify the carb to fine tune all these circuits (i.e., add "jets" with idle fuel restrictions, transition circuit passages, Power valve circuit restrictions, etc.). With the WBO2, I would then have the feedback data to see which way to go on all these "jets".

Welcome Robert. I don't know how to help with your ZX's problem, but if you are going to cross post, please put it in one forum and link to that thread in other forums that you think really need to have a pointer from.

Beautiful paint and workmanship!

Well, sometimes we get advice, even though we don't ask for it. That's not a bad thing either. Anyway, That lift (.447") indicates its the old 151 327/350 cam. I had that cam in a 10.5:1 327 with 462 1.95/1.50 heads when I was in high school on a 70 Camaro. It has alot of overlap, killing the low end. On a 283, it'd be worse. IMO, there's no way that engine will do anything worthwhil until over 3000 rpm, if not more. That's with a dual plane too! Add a tunnel ram and things get worse. Yes, the cam is not a good choice. Those old hi-po Chevy grinds had really slow ramps, which means even though it's like 222@.050" (IIRC) duration, the seat timing is more like 340 degrees (Chevy had weird ways of measuring seat timing, and it's probably closer to 285@.006"

Paul, that's a really elegant design! Love it! I'm all for having isolation in the mount, and not having it hit metal to metal when the diff is under high torque, lifting the nose.

Mark - Grumpy said 4 to 8 five gallon jugs. Like $15-30K

Yes, I talked to the owner/builder of the Red 240Z with the round tail lights. Very nice guy. He had put the car together, paid for the paint and had old ugly tailights that he didn't want to put on the (very nice!) Z. He was then out of money. So he went to the store and bought trailer lights, and I think aftermarket Honda type clear side marker lights for backup lights. He made black cylinders out of some kind of plastic pipe that he put on before the lights so that the lense and cylinder diameter were the same. Very inexpensive setup. Behind all this is a tight hole pattern preforated metal. BTW, I like the non-chrome look, that's why I had all the stainless on the exterior trim powdercoated semi flat black. I was thinking about painting the chrome trim that goes across the center of the Euro tail lights on my car black, but I've decided that that little bit of chrome looks fine. For me anyway. Actually, I think it's tought to beat the look of the 240Z tail light. But I do think that painting the trim panel around the lights the same color as the car makes it look alot better. JMO,

Thanks for the backup everybody. I read the IZCC list and 240Z-club list. I'm member number 15 of the IZCC list. Been on that for over 10 YEARS. Someone posted a message to the 240Z-club list about the post on their forums about this question. I saw some falsehoods being touted as gospel, and I felt I should jump in. Thanks a gain guys. Yeah, that thread is pretty good now - it's so technical for that place - it really belongs here.

Check out my site under "Structual Modifications" for some simple subframe connectors. Recently, others have done connectors similar to the ones in the convertible kit described on Sleek Z's site, ZPARTS.COM