Sean 83ZXT

I always thought you needed a little spacer where the turbo bolts to the manifold? I could be wrong.

I know what ya mean Clint. I've been running just a DP for a few months now. People will not race me because of the whirling noises and overall V8 gurgle. I'm picking up my car today with the new 3" mandrel system from the turbo back. (old DP was 2.5" even though I asked for 3" ) Hopefully it's quieter yet still mean sounding! (I used a magnaflow, I dunno how good it'll be)

Davy, that's a turbo car (Engine code L28ET)

I was looking again at my stack of Z catalogs and I noticed the Victoria British one has two TC rod kits. One add's this cup thing which eliminates one bushing per rod I believe, and they say it prevents darting caused by deflection of the rod. Any thoughts on this? Also what is so special about MSA's adjustable endlinks? What do they adjust? I want the mounts to be stonger, urethane being the first idea, but to my knowledge no one makes them. I believe 240Z Turbo is running solid mounts also. MSA doesn't make a rear strut bar, I basically need this for stiffening and to bolt up my harness'. Might just make one like the one randy77zt showed me in his ride. Ross I can show you a nice pic from a Jap ZX I got off overboost.com. The guy replaced his radio/ashtray/lighter section w/ some CF and added in his electronics and guages. He also did the same for his main guage cluster. I remember another ZX'er using a certain Autometer guage pod w/ minor trimming. I remember Pete's write up on the wheel wells but I recall someone saying the ZX had wider wheel wells? Do you feel the same about cross drilled? I would think they grated the pads like cheese and I never understood why there would be that much gas needing to be released. (their main selling point) Also this will be a multi-attack vehicle: drag, road racing/autocross, and street duty. I don't care about ride harshness that much (I'm only 19 ), but my main issue is safety. I don't like fast cars that leave ya poopin your pants when it comes time to brake or turn. I think what I will do is get new calipers, SS lines and some good pads first and see where to go from there. Any pads you reccomend for strength yet they don't wear out rapidly? Thank you immensly for your help, I wish some of the stuff was more readily available for our ZX's as they are for the plain ol' Z's.

Ok I got a bunch of questions of varying topics so I thought I'd pop them all into one post to keep the info in one place. 1)Why is there no poly bushing "kit" for the 280ZX? Also since there is no kit what all do I need? I wanna redo it all. My ZX darts under hard breaking and I wanna fix that b4 I add more power. Any other suspension mods you think are worth while for the ZX? I remember seeing something about modified rear lower control arms in the JCR catalog. 2)Does anyone make Front AND Rear strut bars for the ZX? 3)Does anyone sell solid motor mounts for the L28ET? Harshness is not an issue. Any thoughts? 4)What size Autometer guages would fit in the stock Speedo and Tach holes? Are they the same size as the 240Z's? 5)Using the stock Turbo rims, (15x7's?) what is the biggest width tire I can fit? Also later on down the road w/ GC Coil overs what is the max size the stock wheel well can handle? 6)What weight/amount of Redline/Amsoil tranny lube should I use in my T-5? (stock tranny) What about the R-200 Diff? (my haynes doesn't tell me) 7)I'm getting new calipers to solve my e-brake/poor braking problem. Would slotted rotors, good high perf. pads, and steel lines suffice for my goal of an 11 sec car? At what point should I be pondering Ross C's or Scca's upgrades? 8)Do '79-'81 Tailights work fine in an '82-'83 model? Please feel free to add any ideas/questions of your own. Thanx!

I use the B&M T-5 Short Shifter for Mustangs in my ZXT and it works good. I dunno the difference from the Ripper but it has a much more positive feel. I'm switching over to Redline MTL soon so I can stop missing/grinding 3rd .

Hey sorry I just saw this but my best is a 15.1 @ 96mph I believe. Mods= just a 3" DP Blitz SS Blow off Turbo XS High Perf. Boost Controller @ stock 7psi More mods in the closet waiting

Just to let ya know, I run my car with only a downpipe and it runs like a raped ape! a lil on the loud side though

Kevin, you should change your motto of "Still an inliner" to "Still a math major" Nice to know some other ppl still know Algebra.

BTW the RB-30 was only available in Aussy land

I'd be carefull when you open the site on the above post, it opened a bunch of porno and gambling sites that crashed my machine.

yeah that is niiiiice! Too bad I can't do that w/ my ride as the sun would fry me if I touched it! I already have to put a sweatshirt over my metal B&M shift knob!

Anyone know of a good source? My bro decided I needed one b4 he'd start doing the body work on my Z

I had a custom DP made a while back ($$$!) and I'm gonna run a Dynomax Bullet Race Muffler. Why? The cost is merely $36 from Summit! What I'll do is have the muff right off the DP, if that proves too loud I'll run another one at the end of a 3" mandrel bent system. Also when I went from full stock exhaust to just the DP spool up decreased immensly and it scares any honda away. (and some V8's!)

Maybe it was low on blinker fluid? j/k good job!

well after I broke the mounts for my e-brake and replaced the pads I have that exact prob

Anyone know a good ENGLISH site for Jap Z info? like the 200ZR or any of the turbo cars?

I believe (Scottie or Drax can correct me if I'm wrong)that you should simply add an intercooler and up the boost to around 10-12 psi? Good Mandrel bent 3" exhaust and maybe up grade your fuel pump. I wouldn't try and go any higher w/ the stock FI though.

My twin bro is away at technical school in Texas (he got a free ride after being ranked #1 in the nation for autobody and paint). But he does some of the best flames I've ever seen! I believe he only uses a thin piece of finishing line. IF I can I'll scan pics of the bug he built, it was Cobalt Blue w/ Silver flames and the tips were dusted purple. And to think he's only 19

ummm I don't think so finding a DSM valve ain't hard man

a school of thought I learned is only rev to half of redline to make an engine last... dunno if that works for break in but I do have a 370k+ mile 86 accord that still runs like a champ and gets 30mpg

Hrmmm combine the TWM 6 throttle body setup w/ your TT setup and I could have a crazy motor!

www.zcarparts.com takes a while to get a catalog

Hey Scottie, do you have the formula for determining your ET by the MPH at the end of the run?

Typhoons/Syclones were V6 Turbo (like a GNX), AWD. I imagine it would be farely tough to find one though as only 3000 of each were made...