Sean 83ZXT

Ahh gotcha.

What ever happened to getting more Moderators on the board?

Here are some catch cans. http://www.suprastore.com/japcusoilcat.html http://www.turboimports.com/gredoilcatca.html http://www.rxecret7.com/420009a.html Also I think some can be had cheaper through Summit or Jegs. The guy building my motor said I can get one from Tognotti's for about $50.

I used the red bulb condom on my the boost guage I put in the ZX. It looks pretty good and matches the stock lights perfectly IMO.

*hides cupholder* Whatchu talkin bout willis?? I got a nice lil one in my console. Fits perfect and I can pretty much hold any size drink, while whomping on unsuspecting victims.

Like I said if the guy posted that he found the problem. He posted on zcar.com.

If ya check out zcar.com, he found the problem. I guess the speedometer sensor was bad and when he unglugged the speedo it worked fine.

Lye will do a good number on your skin as well!

"Where the saying "crotch rocket" was first coined" "The reason for darwin awards"

Many people who own turbo ZX's have similar problems. The fix is to generally unplug (while the car is off) the 3 harness plugs going to the main ECU under the drivers side kick panel. Once they're off drown them liberally with electrical contact cleaner. It is designed to evaporate so let it dry for a few seconds and put the plugs back in. Mine did the same thing for a while and that fixed it. Over time you'll have to do it every so often so when I had a spare car to drive I also took the ECU out and gave it a major contact cleaning. I used a small nail file to clean off debris, but an emery cloth should also work fine. Let me know how it turns out. I'd try this first because it's a very cheap thing to try.

I'm not too sure about the POV issue. When my would open I'd experience a spike and then it would open and power goes down DRAMATICALLY. You will definitely know when it opens. Mine started lowering in boost and shortly there after I was getting oil out of my BOV. Hope that's not it but I'd look into that.

I remember reading somewhere the old Fox body pods from Autometer are supposed to fit 280ZX's with mininal cutting. I'm not sure how it would work for older bodies though.

Perhaps we should change the phrase from Ricer to Poser? It would make the definition much clearer.

I work 40 hrs a week at one job, on call the other, and I go to school M-Th nights at a tech school. I'm going to tech school because even though I've got 6 years experience I can always learn more and the program I'm in is helping me get my A+, CNA, CIW, CCNA, MCSE and MCP certs (probably only understandable to computer guys). I love building my Z car, but my schedule only allows me to pay someone to do it for now. I wish I could have the time to work on the car again!

Wow my dad is gonna be 55 this December and I just turned 20!

I would research the steps another member took to make the swap happen. Do searches for "stony" and his swap. He's created a somewhat detailed description of what's needed. I'll shed a lil bit of light based on what I've found. Generally a tranny from a GTS is used (RB engine, RWD is in that model Skyline). Mounts can be used from a J-spec 200ZR (Z31 300ZX w/ RB20). The oil pan provides the biggest problem as it's connected to the front diff I believe. Driveshaft would need to be altered and to fit an R230 even more mods are needed. R-200 from my knowledge should handle the power, the halfshafts seem to be the weak point and they can be replaced w/ CV's from a 280ZX Turbo and an adapter from Ross C. Hopefully this is an aid to help you better understand it's not the easiest or most documented swaps. But if you have the patience/moola and drive it could be a very rewarding venture.

Oh I understand that stuff from my archives of your posts and others. Got the SDS and misc parts in the closet. I plan on getting an ITS custom turbo, and all I have left to buy is the fuel pump, FPR, and injectors. I finally got a decent driver so now I can put the Z on the operating table. Suspension and Brakes will be done before this puppy is on the road.

Ok turbo L28 guru's. My options have dwindled down to simply rebuilding my stock 222k engine and I figure I only want to do this once. My main goal is to reach about 350-400hp at the wheels. I'm planning on getting forged pistons, and getting everything else done that I need to support this power level. My main goal is to make this thing stong and reliable because it will be somewhat of a daily driver. I have an appt. with my builder on the 22nd so I'm researching as much as possible so I can have an outline when we sit down. Basically what should be added to the following: Forged Pistons (low vs high silicone) Rods (prepped how?) Rings (Total Seal) Block Crank Keep in mind I'm limitied by what my dad is willing to loan me, and he stresses reliability. (Gotta love retired hot-rodders w/ bucu cash) Feel free to tell me what's important and what's a waste of money. Thanks in advance! Sean

I don't remember Rotary engines having heads....

AutoWeek

Bump

Hey Lone, hit me up sometime before you leave Sac for good. I'd love to shoot the breeze and take a gander at your ride.

Note: I called Densmore and they have the engine, but apparently they use the N47 head, which makes no sense. Attarco doesn't even carry 6 cyl engines.

I've been having problems recently with the trusty Z. I blew an oil seal in the turbo and I figured now would be a good time to get a remanufactured engine and get everything cleaned up and working like new. Well it seems things have changed at ATK from a year ago and they no longer reman the turbo engines. So my question to you guys is do you know of any Reman. Engine companies on the same level of quality? Having it rebuilt at a shop is really a last bet due to the long downtime with out my car and the chance of problems. Any help is appreciated. Thanx.

I hear a lot about this Puch Lok Hose. Where can I find info and a good source for purchasing the product?