badjuju

for #3 there are more pressing performance advantages than weight, remember that.

Didn't an rt viper race an f16 when it came out?

Anyone? What kinda fluid should I use in my clutch line?

i commend you joe, 49 posts and you're a donating member.

That's a damn fine post for a newbie, I've been here two years and my posts are still pretty useless. lol

Man the final method I tried of triggering was the simplest, yet needed a little fabrication. I went Halleffect, drilled holes in my crank pulley, epoxied some magnets in at 120*, and fabbed up a bracket to hold the sensor in place. no daughtercard, no relay board, just 2.2 and an HEI module.

the day when i quote "the price is right"... lol man it sounds like a great buy, I can't see the pics cause I'm on a "censored" computer, but $200 for a running (it is running, right?) car is pretty great. Glad to have another among us.

Also, a guy on turbobricks.com made his own, I'm on a reference computer at UW right now so I can't go to a .com site or I'd link you. If i remember right though, his car is the one with the big intercooler on the front page.

my transmission wants to explode everytime i downshift... it does okay from 3rd to second, but unless i've been stopped for ~5 seconds, 2nd to 1st gives a clunk that would scare any car owner.

In my ultimate wisdom (ha) it should work, but yeah, with a shorter drive shaft.

Hmm, yeah I had thought of RPing the tube, I've got access to a couple at the University of Washington, the question is whether my prof will let me take 18 hours out of his project time to make a tube... then just reinforce it and use the whole thing... (18 hours because it's accurate down to 15 microns and takes a while to cure)

yes, roninjiro, it exploded. i know the difference between a backfire and a 12 gauge going off in my cab. and no, the sound didn't just make me realize that i was having to force my transmission into gear and then pull it out again instead of pushing the clutch in. thanks for the responses, but it exploded. and the clutch does not operate any longer. the liklihood of it destroying the clutch line are slim, which is why i asked. Thanks, Pop, what kinda fluid should I use?

It's on a 620 pickup, but the clutch system is similar, so I thought I'd ask here. My newold pickup backfired once in a while while shutting off... that is, before one of them blew up the muffler. the muffler is rather close to the cab and thus the rest of the important stuff that makes the car move. I parked the truck at my parents' house for a couple days and took their car (because they went on vacation). When I started my truck again last night, I realized that the clutch seems to not engage as well. This morning I got in the truck and found out that the clutch pedal is just hitting the floor, almost no engaging at all... Drove to work and back in 2nd (short drive), and came home and posted this. What might be going on, the master cylinder has almost no fluid in it, do I need to bleed the system or just add dot 4? If there's a leak, wouldn't it have been leaking while I was driving the car around, rather than while it was parked? After work I checked and didn't notice any spill spots under the car. Is it likely that the explosion (which happened the day before I parked it) damaged the line, or the slave cylinder? Thanks guys, alec

Wouldn't JB welding it in render a freeze plug semi-useless? I thought the purpose of a freeze plug was to allow them to pop out instead of the block cracking if all the coolantwater in your system freezes?

Hmm, that's great SBC, thanks, i'm now on another quest for information, thanks a lot just realized that post seemed sarcastic, it wans't meant to be, i appreciate the info, lol

one of the reasons I want to use fiberglass is because it insulates heat, I'm thinking it'll help prevent heatsoak in between the intercooler and the intake manifold. I appreciate your enthusiasm, racer, that's the spirit i'm looking for. I hadn't considered the different resins, so I appreciate that input as well, I have a basic understanding of the differences, but I haven't seriously researched it for this project.

Toad, this is a valid point, I will have to keep that in mind during testing, if I'm not totally satsified with it's duribility, I won't put it in. Hoke, that'd be greatly appreciated, I would love to get my hands on some carbon fiber to play with, but it's kinda intimidating thinking about going from napa fiberglass repair sheets to epoxy resin CF, but it's just the jump that this site is all about. any info you could supply would be awesome, particularly on the molding process.

how about a 4 cyl cummins? you'd have to do some tricky gearing, but a v8 cummins will put out 1000 lb-ft easy, and a 4 cyl deisel would be sweet and lighter than the v8. you might not be able to see over the engine, but it'll fit for sure, lol

bought mine from a friend, but both he and another of my buddies got them on ebay, i think this is one: http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-MODUTEC-DIGITAL-LED-PANEL-METER-AMP-VOLTMETER_W0QQitemZ190042244467QQihZ009QQcategoryZ73158QQtcZphotoQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem then i just dremeled and epoxied it in there, sanded it, and painted it. it will read 0-5 volts or something, but i programmed my LC-1 (wideband) to put out 1 volt at 10:1 afr and 2 volts at 20:1 afr, and my friend had his voltmeter (the one i bought from him) set to read in tenths of a volt, so a 14.7 afr into my lc-1 comes out as 1.47 volts, which reads as 14.7 "decivolts" on my voltmeter.

i'd use one if i had it... lol

just buy some mounts and an engine crane

k, wasn't sure if it was the same as with my l28, thanks man

I just bought a Datsun pickup and it is ticking pretty bad, anyone know the intake and exhaust valve lash of an L24?

left switch is my megasquirt switch, right switch is my fan switch.

Here ya go. f**kn cold outside.