badjuju

BUMP I've been stranded on the side of the road working on my car for like 6 years now! No one has any advice?!

Is there any way to edit\delete my member project thread? I'm not happy with some of the posts and I'd like to modify\delete them or the entire thread and restart. thanks Alec

Pull a Part in Lynnwood. It was frickin grand. On another note, I'll have a couple 7mgtes for sale shortly.

Getting the stuff into the car is simple if you have a welder and half a brain. People ask about this stuff because it's intimidating, they don't really know where to start. These guys are right, search your ass off. I'm using VEMs: I have a 7mgte (I actually have two if you're interested) cam position censor, which will be triggering VEMs (like megasquirt) for my RPM signal. My 2jz is out of a lexus, so I don't need to change the oil pan I used my engine stand to suspend the motor where I wanted it, put a jack under the tranny, and mounted it as far back as I could. I then made sure the engine was level (horizontal line), made sure the shifter hole was all aligned, and cut cardboard pieces to mock up a mount. I cut the actual pieces out, bolted one side to the motor and one side to the chassis, then welded the connecting bits in place. Then go back to your tranny, and make sure the shaft is coming out to within a couple degrees (mine was 5*) of where your diff is. Call a driveline shop and have them explain to you how to measure for a driveshaft, and you're golden. That all being said, keep in mind, I did this with a 7mgte, but being that I just got a 2j, I'll follow the same process when I fab those mounts.

Looks like the 2jz-GE from the Lexuses (Lexii?) have rear sump, the 2js out of the supras had front sump. Booyaw?

I wasn't aware the oil pan would need fixin, I figured since they were both rear sump it wouldn't be an issue. Guess I need to research some more, lol The guys that worked at the pull a part were all PISSED when we rolled the motor up, like three of them told us individually that they were going to stay late after work and take it home. As for the mileage, the serial numbers the yard uses to mark cars has 6 digits (stupid idea). The serial number on this one was like 156xxx. We thought maybe it was the mileage, they said "no. it had 97k on it." totally straight faced and pissed off, lol What's the problem with the pan?

Yo, sorry for the lack of updates, I've been totally ignoring everything but my senior project at UW for the last six months or so. BUUUUT, My friend Poik from over on TurboBricks came over yesterday and mentioned he saw a 2jz-GE in a Lexus SC300 at the junk yard. We rallied, and with the help of a sledge hammer, a sawzall, a crowbar, and a #14 on a ratchet, I walked out of the yard with a front clipped 2jz-GE with 97k miles on it for $180. So... this project may be changing around quite a bit. lol

I still think arguing about this crap is silly... You'll be happy with whatever you do.

Cool, I'll call tomorrow. It's 10:30 in Seattle right now, lol

Karl, prior to your new manifold, what were you doing for your throttle linkage? I'm having some trouble with mine. Do you still have your old setup?

The only way to really mount the motor up is to test fit it. I held mine up with my engine hoist, with the motor inside the car, and made sure it was level (left-right) and made sure the transmission's front\back angle matched the differential's angle. Then I bolted a flat piece of steel to the motor where the mounts were going to go, then I bolted a flat piece of steel to the car where the mounts were going to go. Then I cut pieces of cardboard that looked like they'd fit in between the two pieces of flat steel on either side. Then I cut different ones until the cardboard fit perfectly. Then I used those pieces of cardboard as templates to cut steel. Then I cut the steel Then I held the pieces in place, one at a time, and tack welded them in. Then I CAREFULLY (because you only tack welded these pieces together, you don't want to break the welds) unbolted the flat pieces of steel from the car, and from the motor. Then I CAREFULLY lifted up the motor and removed the mockups of the mounts I just made. Then I welded the SH*T out of those babies! Works like a charm! Use Clifton's pics as reference... I asked some similar questions to yours about a year ago, and Clifton posted some pics in the threads.

First, please don't flame me for this, I know it'll happen, because this was a really stupid thing to do, but this is my ******* baby, I've been working on her for four years, and your smartass comments are a little much for me atm. I let my 7mgte setup hit like 220 Celsius. Idling with no fan. forgot about the no fan. "Quick! Pour water on it!" I did. idiot. Stupid move. About two miles down the road, I start getting smoke out the tail pipe. It's whitish but it doesn't QUITE seem like steam. The AFR dropped from 13:1 to 8:1. I open up spark plugs and find that 1,2,3 are whitish as if they've been heated too much (go figure) and 4,5 are wet-ish, and 5,6 look like they have water sitting on top of the pistons. Looking down into the block I can see the reflection of the sky above me, and ripples on the reflection which means 1, there's liquid on the piston, and 2, there's more dripping onto it. I pull the motor. Check the head, block, Cometic MLS gasket. No (visible) damage on any of them. I ran a square over the head\block, didn't see any warpage. I seal it all back up and compression test (should have done this first, I know). I get 150, 140,157,145,150,126. Piston 6 has always been a little less compressiony than the rest. Wtf is going on? Is this a problem that will only surface when it gets hot again? Possibly just destroyed the #1,6 coil pack when I poured water on it? I have seen a "bad" coil pack which only fired one of the two cylinders before. It's possible this happened to both the #1,6 and the #2,5 coil packs. I'm thinking maybe the excessive heat + cold water on the coil packs (which sit above the motor, get hit with all the heat of the motor, and got hit with water first)busted a couple of the packs. The compression test plus the fact that the afr dropped to 8:1 instead of reading something incredibly off the chart tells me that maybe a ton of water wasn't blowing by the sensor, and the smoke did smell an awful lot like fuel. Could have just been hot ass gasoline hitting the exhaust system and halfway vaporizing? Any advice on what direction to take this?

yes, i have something like those installed.

That's what I'm thinking, something that's bigger diameter, and maybe only 1 or 2 turns? I just don't want to punch a hole in the door or the body by slamming the door.

I bought a pair of doors for $150, interior pieces and glass included, handles shaved already, and solenoids installed. all I needed to do was install the doors and run a switch\relay. Pretty sweet setup. HOWEVER, I'm having a hell of a time figuring out how to make the doors pop open a couple inches when I hit the button. Any ideas?

Waaastin' tiiiiiiiiiime Just a quick update, my lack of exhaused melted my feeder wire to my fuel pump, so I'm sitting waiting for my daddy to bring me a length of wire and some wire nuts... lol I'm using my droid's internet connection to use my in dash tuning computer to update yall on this... it's plugged into my power inverter. lol This car is ******* great, lovin' it. Side note - AFR is right about 12:1 across the board. Still working on it, so far I'm a big fan of VEMS over my old MSnS-e setup.

I'll buy the book, looks good. I know it's too rich, I think the base problem is that only two of my three coils are going to a useful spark. BUT it appears I've fixed that, the firing order was off. Weird, it's the same thing that happened to my buddy's VEMS setup. Next up is getting my wideband to communicate, then driving it until the wheels fall off. John, I appreciate the input. I also appreciate the humor in your thread name change, lol

allllllso... I just ran an LED to each coil pack, and it seems to be firing left middle right, rather than left right middle, which is what I, and VEMS were under the impression it was firing. Super duper. I'm thinking maybe cyl 2 and 5 are a little lower than the rest, not because the valves aren't sitting, but rather because I'm washing the piston rings with fuel. Thoughts?

Before I purchased the motor, I tested the compression. After installing a cometic mls gasket and reinstalling the arp studs the previous owner messed up, and forgetting to tighten the timing belt tensioner, and cranking the engine for a while, and realizing what I had done, and setting the timing correctly and tightening the damn tensioner, I got it to start and run and all that, then noticed the spark plug issue, see post #1. Anyhow, I thought I'd run the compression test again, hoping to find that 2 and 4 were extremely low, thus telling me what my problem was. Anyhow, here are my numbers... 2 and 4 are lower than the rest, but I'm not experienced enough to know if they're low enough to justify calling the valves bent or not seating. tell me what you think: Pre Purchase: 135 133 137 148 125 155 Just now: 151 143 151 160 145 155

Good Job, John.

Topped if off, didn't help.

Injectors are 440 cc\min, stock 7mgte injectors. Fuel pressure is there, but I don't have a gauge. Fuel filter is off an l28et. FPR is the stock one from a 7mgte. Wideband is down; haven't gotten it to communicate with VEMS yet. Car idles fine. It'll drive up and down the street. I'd really appreciate that flat, I've got this sitting on three forums, kind of consolidating answers at the moment.

Sweet, 70 views and no replies. Thanks for your input. I know someone has some idea as to what they think this might be, and that's all that I'm asking for. Nut up and state your opinion.