badjuju

My fuel tank is now in my garage awaiting installation. The car is currently full of wires going every which-way as they're pulled one by one. I used some expanded metal to fab a bracket to hold: The Fuse box Two ground blocks (one to chassis, one to battery) A +12 block The bracket is bolted into the passenger's side storage compartment. I'll update this post with a pic when it's allllll done. The electrical is currently being held up by a shipping delay. A friend of mine shipped me a multi-conductor firewall plug from a Volvo (thanks Karl!), but since it's coming from Sweden, it's taking a while.

http://www.3dcadbrowser.com/3dmodels.aspx?word=240z I'm currently working on getting a working model in Solidworks for easy mockup\design. The cheapest (and most likely at this point) is here: http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=f9b9b12c6061d32ab910dc0e33e50abd&ct=mdrm Which is proving to be quite a bitch to get into SW. If we can get enough people to pitch in on the one in the top link, I'd buy it and post the solidworks file when I get it done. I'll be basically starting with 50 copies of the file, cutting away everything but a given piece (say, a door or the hood), and saving it as its own file, then reconnecting everything in an assembly, so the individual pieces would be able to be modified.

Motherfucker! Someone got there a half hour before me and offered him $2500. I said I'd match it (just going to part it out and use the body), and he sold it to the other guy. I ******* hate flakes, dude told me I had first dibbs! I want to build a convertible now. Search button here I come. ****!

You guys are ******* awesome. Yeah, I'm going for it. Definite roll bar, and I'll take the door advice as well, lol I'm gonna trust none of my seattle friends are going to snipe this from me (I'll crash into you) Here's the link: http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/cto/3808942345.html Selling my FN Five seveN. *sniffle* I think it'll be worth it. I can buy another one off a shelf someday. This car looks just friggin sweet. Not looking forward to doing the frame rail project again, but I know how to do it. I don't know how to do pretty body work.

Yessir. It's a 240z with no roof. Sorry! Good thinking. So a cage will be in the works to make up for that I suppose.

I'm considering picking up a 240z roadster for the body, the guy wants $1200. It's got a running L24 in it (supposedly rebuilt, meh), and "three carbs" (not going to ask him what kind of carbs in case it puts him on the Mikuni scent) Before I commit to buying a car with no roof forever and ever, can anyone give me insight as to the potential downsides (other than storage and walking away from a car with no roof when I park it)? Thanks! Alec

http://www.performanceautomotivenorthwest.com/

I've got a brand new Cometic MLS in packaging I'll ship you for 85% of whatever it costs new. http://www.shopengineparts.com/parts.aspx?eid=651&cid=24&type=engine&vtype=Import+Auto&make=Toyota+%2f+Lexus&model=7M-GTE+3.0L+87-92+2054cc (Cometic's website now redirects to shopengineparts.com) I ordered one when the PO of my 7m told me he replaced the headgasket with a cometic, but not with an MLS. I popped the top to replace it, and it turns out it WAS an MLS. Bonus!

OP, if you buy this car, spend $500 on a welder, a book, and some scrap. Learn how to weld, and do it yourself. You'll be happier in the long run, because in five years when you discover more rust, you'll know what to do.

That's maybe the coolest shit I've seen someone say on this board, lol

Garage is reclaimed, and is officially a BMW chop shop for the next month. In the mean time, my Z is in the driveway, having electrical work done. My current goal is to iron out some of the crappiness I built into the car as I began it 6 or so years ago. I was more concerned then with getting the bastard up and running than I was with it being my perfect car. That is now what I'm aiming for. I didn't mount the fuse box when my gf and I wired up the new Summit harness. I just sorta... put it about where I wanted it, zip tied it in place, and moved forward. After realizing how terrible the finished product looks, I've used wire markers to mark each conductor twice, about 6" and 10" away from the fuse box. I'm now about 80% done soldering new 10' leads to them, and when that's finished, I'll be mounting the fuse box and VEMS box either to the interior walls of the passenger side storage compartment, or to the inside of the lid of both storage compartments, using a Seals-It grommet as a pass-through on the front wall of the compartment. Pics when I drill the hole! I'm planning on installing Z Force Productions BAMF flares to all four wheels, cutting and welding as necessary, and painting the car a metallic blue that a painter friend mixed up for me. I've picked up a new fuel tank with a 6 or 8 AN fitting as a pickup, and I'll be running AN fuel lines soon enough. I'm going to do that before I get the car running, because upping the fuel lines after I tune to what's currently there will just waste a lot of time.

I'd fix it before driving. You have no idea how far it really goes until you replace it. My car pulled super hard to the right one day under braking, and it turns out the passenger-side frame rail had rusted through. If I hadn't been in the left lane of an empty freeway, I could have hurt myself, or worse, someone else. There are some shots on my build thread of how the bit got replaced.

FRP? And if I just build a triangle between the firewall and strut towers, I can just cut all that crap out in front and run whatever I want? And yeah, the fat old white dudes were right. ... This time.

I cut it because i was 19 or 20 at the time and was more concerned with getting it up and running. I'm going through and ironing out my fuckups now. I was thinking more plate than your pics, Nelsonian, but that's because I hadn't considered doing tubes. that looks fanfrickintastic! That's about what I'm thinking now. Thanks for the input! I'll post updates!

I currently have an intercooler in front of my rad, and after having to cut the holes bigger to fit my 2.5" IC piping, I think that the whole rad support, top to bottom, looks like ass. Has anyone attempted this that would like to drop some knowledge? I am comfortable that I can complete this project, but I thought I'd throw up a flare and see if anyone has some reason why I oughtn't do this.

Garage almost reclaimed, currently parting out\chopping my friend's 325IS, then it's car work time.

Found it in the Pull-A-Part in Lynnwood (now Pick n Pull, I think.) I'm going to be getting it up and running with the 7m before I go to swap the 2jz, should be easy enough to swap it over. New motor mounts ( I think ), and the signalling to VEMS will be identical. Reclaiming my garage now, then it's car work time.

I think if you're that concerned about looks, you'd run a center console, lol

Of what witchcraft do you speak?

Because race cat!

My '73 didn't have the bits that ought to be under the fuel door when I bought it. Finding a gas cap was easy, but I'm having trouble sourcing the car side of the gas cap, ie the part which is screwed to the car, which the gas cap screws into. Does anyone have any non-yard ideas on where to find this? MSA seems to be coming up dry.

Thanks guys! This is actually in a '67 C-10, so I left the spring be. Now on to getting the bastard back up and running! First step, changing plugs. I had to put my foot into it so much to keep it running that I fouled my plugs, which is what caused it to stop running initially. Figured at that point it was time to actually clean the carb.

Baller. I'll check it out! If anyone has more input, I'd be super happy to read it!

Water sat in my Holley for almost a year. I don't remember the model number, but after a ton of research, I picked this carb out for my L24 about 6 years ago, if that helps. 4 Barrel 390cfm electric choke vacuum secondaries fits on the AZC manifold After a year or so of water just sitting in it, I finally have time to clean it out. I bought a renew kit, and I'm currently breaking it down as far as I can. I currently have the primary metering block off, and on the secondary side, I'm looking at a bunch of bolts that I have no tool to remove. I'd like to remove the secondary block, because I imagine it'd be beneficial. Do I need to remove the secondary block to totally clean this thing out? If so, wtf do I use to remove these bolts? Is there anything else I should be aware\wary of as I blaze on (phrasing) in my cleaning process? For reference (since I don't have the carb handy to take a pic of it), see this video at 4:13 Thanks guys!

^joke I was searching for another post of mine and ran across this. Just found the idea of waiting around for 6 years for a reply was funny.