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Chewievette

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Posts posted by Chewievette

  1. As long as I have a source for all the parts I might as well try it right? I am NOT going for max power, I cant spend that much right now. and when I do its certainly going to be with some sort of stroker. but for now I am just trying something that's not too difficult and as far as I've been reading, never attempted before. I just want to see what kind of numbers the engine can put down. If I dont like it I'll save up and build something else! I LOVE building engines, if I could make money at it that's all I'd do. I'm not afraid of spending my money on something that very well might not produce the most power ever.

     

    I threw in that comment about boost because I have an unhealthy obsession with twin turbos, so its not a huge stretch of the imagination to see myself putting a couple on there. Especially if it turns out to be a weak engine, boost would serve as a bandaid in that situation. Although I have yet to find a weak L6.

  2. Even though it might not make all the power it can, I dont expect it and to tell you the truth I dont really want it. Too much power can be a bad thing too. Besides if I dont like it I only have to swap the rotating assembly out to get a standard stroker engine. The L20A crank is as good as bought so I'm committed now. I keep finding new LD28 rods for $150 each! I think I'll go used for those. I would use lighter rods but I havn't tracked down a source for FJ20 rods yet, anyone got a source? Plus I have this devilish idea to throw boost on it so diesel rods might be a good idea.

  3. 1979 280zx - Waiting to be gutted and scrapped. Motor, trans and wiring is going into the 240z.

     

    1972 240z - Swapping over the intake and wiring harness from the ZX next week. Fuel system is going to be purchased in a couple of weeks and Brakes come a couple after that. Once those are installed I'll be driving it!! YAY!!!

     

    1996 Intrepid - Fabbing up an adapter plate for the new intake manifold, should be done by the end of the week. The Dodge Intrepid International Meet is in Chicago on the 20th, so I need to get it done by then.

  4. While I'm not going to argue with you guys since you have far more experience with these engines than I do, I have to point out that with this combo the rod/stroke ratio is right about 2:1. I have always been told that the easiest way to increase power is to increase rpm, not displacement. Why else would all those ferraris and lambos be running such high revs? I've noticed that there are two ways to make power; the american way, big cubes low rpm and everyone else's way, high rpm, small cubes. I dont know, I guess I need to do some more research.

  5. I got a couple more questions, In the calc program it has FJ20 rods which are 140mm. I did some research and found that the small end on those is 22mm instead of the desired 21mm. I did some more searching and found the LD28 rods to also be 140mm, a little bit heavier, but with 21mm small end. I was just doing more research and found reference to the LD28 having a 25mm small end! Which is it 21mm or 25mm? and if it is 25mm can I get them rebushed down to 21mm?

     

    Maybe I should do a stock rebuild, at least then I know all the parts fit together.

  6. Hmm, I dont know why its that low, especially for 9:1 compression. If I put in LZ24 pistons instead of the KA24 ones it shows a drop in compression to 8.27:1. Are the LZ24s the dished turbo pistons?

     

    I've got a line on a L20 crank already.

  7. I know you see questions about engine buildups all the time, infact there are probably a couple right near this one. However I have been searching all night and have not found anyone asking about a setup similar to what I've been tinkering with. The best tool that I have to figure out setups is the Lengine calculator but I've been told its not always accurate so I'm a little skeptical. I think the below components will work together for a big bore, short stroke engine.

     

    Block - L28

    Con rod - LD28

    Cyl Head - E31

    Gasket - Felpro

    Overbore - .120

    Crank - L20A

    Pistons - KA24

     

    I also figured out that if I use my L24 crank and a P90 head with an HKS 2mm gasket I'll get similar results without having to track down and buy a L20 crank. How much are L20 cranks going for anyways?

     

    Obviously I want a freely revving engine but the real question is will rebuilding my engine with these parts provide much difference over a more stock rebuild? The engine in my car right now is a stock L24 but I have an L28 to rebuild for it and I'm looking for options. I've never rebuilt one of these engines before so any help would be awesome. The setup I have listed should give a compression ratio of 9.03:1 which is in the pump gas range, exactly where I wanted it. If I wanted to turbo it later on would that ratio be too high? I guess what this all boils down to is, would this be a streetable engine or should I save my money for other things and do a stock rebuild?

  8. I spent last night rebuilding and cleaning the Throttle bodies for my daily driver. I mentioned this setup to Braap earlier and thought others might be interested as well. I got the intake manifold, TBs, and all the sensors attached to the intake at the local junkyard for $50! If you've always wanted a dual TB intake for your project but couldn't source the parts, check out the first gen (93-97) dodge intrepids at the j/y. The 3.5L engine that these parts came from was installed in all LH series cars and is rather abundant. The setup is very similar to the one found on the early Vipers. These TBs are 48mm but I can get bolt on TBs up to 58mm at the junkyard and there are some aftermarket parts that will go higher than that, so size is not a problem. Anyways, I just thought someone might be interested in seeing this.

     

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  9. Let me know if your interested in getting rid of a few of those parts. I've been trying to piece my '72 back together and I still need some stuff. It sounds like you got yourself a real project! Keep us posted.

  10. I looked into doing this a little while ago with a 620 and if you want to do it, it can be done but it wont be easy. The stock engine mounts are fairly well placed so if you go off of those, the pulleys are right at the back of the grill which means you will have to relocate the rad to the side of the engine bay or something. and since the L6 is so much longer you will have to recess the firewall by at least 8" in the center. This also means that the trans mount has to go back among other things. It can be done, but it was just too much work for what I wanted it for.

  11. I have recently hatched a devilish plan to save me some time and perhaps a little aggrevation. I am attempting to get my junk 280zx(bad body) hauled up here so that I can rip out the wiring harness and engine / trans. I think I can adapt the 280zx harness from the seats foreward into the stock 240z rear harness. Some sticky spots are the combo switch functions, the autometer gauges that I have coming, and wiper motor. I dont think it will be too much of an issue, I'll just have to modify instead of starting from scratch. Anyone ever installed autometers into a 280zx? As a side bonus I'll get fuel injection and a non points distributor. I'd much rather have megasquirt but this will get the car running until I can figure something else out.

  12. We sell LP for $1.99 per gallon where I work, compare that to $2.93 per gallon for regular unleaded and it starts to look very appealing! However if you run LP as your primary fuel source you need to have a bunch of permits, I have to see them when I fill a LP powered vehicle.

  13. I'm going to agree with SHO-Z on this one, unless you've got the money to spend I wouldn't tear up those carbs. The spacer is a good idea. If you mount the injectors below the intake they will be nearly invisible. Although you might have vapor lock issues with the exhaust being so close. If you really want to go crazy, mechanical fuel injection units use an injector that is small enough to fit into the airstream inside the DCOE, but they do not have valves in them, they constantly inject fuel, like a carb. Or at least that's how the ones we use in aviation work.

  14. Are you kidding? I wish I had thought of that! Every ricer south of the north pole is going to pick up a set of those and the guy that thought those stupid little things up is going to be a very rich man! Maybe I should stop trying to invent something useful...

  15. I went back up there yesterday and he wants $400 for it. I dont know its pretty bad. I measured it up for the L6 and if I use the stock engine mounts it will put the front of the pulleys directly behind the grill and the firewall will have to get pushed back at least 8" I think I could do it, I would need to crawl up under there and take a look at the trans mount and see how it could be modified. Its acctually a 1979 620. the brakes look very similar to my 280zx, any chance they will swap over? Turns out I dont have a set of wheels and tires because I didn't realize they were using six bolts on a mini truck. I found an '85 chevy pu that looks pretty solid for $600 I might just go for that. I have to think about this some more, what do yall think?

  16. I could be, if there's a couple of bucks involved... I would need to build it in a car though, it can be done outside of the car but it will fit much better if it is done inside. I went and played with my car a bit today and I found that everything from the seats back is still intact! Now I have to decide if I want to replace it all now or wait till I tear the interior out to redo it. But after a day of fun, I gotta get some sleep.

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