Cal Poly Zmanaustin

Glad to see you are at home on the right board too. it's very different and pretty cool. Nice work.

I have to agree. I am no expert but I would be chicken to go under that too.

Welcome to the forum. I recommend you do a search as there are so many different options you will want to familiarize yourself with first. Also post some pics of your new car for us. Good luck.

Hey Lason, Here's how I see it. Problem 1: the part is a little pricy which is relative for everyone depending on their perception of what it is truly worth. Problem 2: with low production volume at a lower price it just isn't worth the fabricators time for less. I think the current price is worth it for a one off or limited low production run, but that is irrelevant. My suggestion if you want the part cheaper and don't want to make it yourself then maybe you should look to hit other forums and drum up more interest and get the production volume up. Don't want you to think I am knocking you, just saying rather than suggest the cost is too much maybe an alternative is to be proactive in finding more people that want it and work toward a potential solution. Okay, I am jumping off my soapbox now. Just my .02. Good luck.

RedNeckZ, It's well covered???? I've searched and read everything I could find on this topic. Not trying to stir the pot, but did you read his request? The question was regarding options on doing a rear brake swap using Z32 2-pot calipers. I admit I could be blind, but it's been broached only as a custom job. The sticky does have kits mentioned, but not for the Z32 swap. Sooley, Checked out your site. Gorgeous car looks to be coming along nicely. I too and looking to do this swap. Everything I have read leads me to believe you will need to fab your own brackets. I am not far enough along to share any pics that would help you. I am planning on fabbing a bracket for the rear and ditching the parking brake. I plan to use a different rotor other than the Z32 rear one. My logic is it will reduce weight and should make the bracket less difficult to design by using a rotor with a smaller (more shallow) hat. I test fitted a rear Z31 (first gen 300zx here) rotor and looks like you could do a flat bracket and mill to spec. Also, I thought about using a Ford Mustang GT 12 inch rotor in the rear. Basically, I am looking for rear rotor that is mass produced, with a more shallow hat than the Z32 rear rotor, 12 inch or slightly bigger and maybe .81 in thick. Should have plently of thermal capacity, be easy/cheap to replace. Hope that helps and welcome to the forum.

They will not clear 15" panasports without a little work. My buddy has the same early Wilwood kit with 15" Panasports, but had the wheels machined for clearance. Have no idea how much was taken off.

Great stuff coming from AZC these days.

Very true, the Z32 would not require as many things. The Z32 is a better starting point. The author of the post has a 2+2. Everyone I've ever talked to that upgraded a NA to a TT said they wouldn't do it again. It's a lot more work. Granted a lot of things on this car would be different application/custom, but IMHO the TT would be a better starting point. If you hit the salvage yards and are patient acquiring the pieces it is probably not a big deal. If you are doing a swap like this on your own, costs can be reasonable, but the moment you have professional help to do the entire job it can get really expensive. Labor charges are better than half the cost of the project. Probably higher factoring in custom fabrication. Once the car is unassembled the big killer is always "While I am at it I should...". The best bet in that case would be to find a shop that wants to do the job as a project to showcase their skills. You end up with lots of down time on your car, but the R&D ends up cheap. It is a trade off. Without being a complete list here are some things needed: Different Diff ratio (NA is 4.08 IIRC) Custom engine mounts Probably custom Alt and AC mounts Fab plumbing for IC Fab lines for Oil Cooler Oil Cooler Custom Exhaust manifold Bigger TB Intercoolers Turbos Injectors Dish pistons (to lower compression ratio) ECU (Any number of options and programming needed) EVC

Excellent videos of both the car and sense of humor. Truly inspirational!!!

How did you resolve the bumpsteer issue. I know many with the S30 use a bumpsteer spacer to correct the geometry of the tie rod ends. Is there an equivalent spacer for the Z31? I couldn't find one available. Still a bit confused and wanted to know how you solved this problem.

Hey guys, Any new findings?

Ballpark cost=your first born. Are you really prepared to shell out that kind or cash? I bet you are in for at least $20K.

A friend bought these in 4 lug pattern with "0" offset and they are 16x8.5. http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/DisplayWheel.jsp?wheelMake=Kosei&wheelModel=K1+Racing&wheelFinish=Silver+Painted

That's sacrilegious. Just kidding. Wonder how many hows went into that?

No real reason to shy away from the '73. Some late '73s had the Hitachi carbs that were imfamously bad. The '74 260Zs all had these. Nissan quickly jumped to fuel injection on the '75 280Z to address this. So if it has these you can easily swap to something else. The SU carbs are the good stock ones on the early Zs.

I agree. Since when is adding safety equipment into a 30+ year old vehicle a bad thing?

That is what the designer of the kit is saying. When I asked him if he could correct his CAD drawing this was his response... "There isn't a way to correct for that given the way the bolt spacing works out - its not possible to get the caliper to sit much further "down" on the rotor." I looked at your drawing and I understand the issue, but I would have thought that would only happen if you go to a smaller rotor, not bigger. Since the radius is larger the curve is less pronounced and more gradual. I would think there are a few more mm left to correct. I am guessing the difference in the hub spacing was designed into the CAD drawing, but not the difference in radius' arc.

That was something else I was looking at (not for purchase) and wondering if I was ignorant. I kept thinking how can that do anything and if there is that much flex than that is the last place you would want it since it would crush the MC.

That is kind of what I am wondering. I want function over appearance.

Jon, If I want to be critical it would have less clamping force due to less pad material contacting the rotor. Probably would work okay unless the pad material is worn all the way (I think this is what you were eluding to if I understood you correctly). Just makes me wonder about the overall final QA of the kit and the effective planning of it. Just wanted to know if others think this is still a good kit or if the defect in aligning/measuring the pad/rotor contact area would make you shy away from the kit.

Check out these adaptors for using larger rotors on a Z32. It appears to be a nice kit with one exception: notice the uneven arc on the pad. The originator of the kit states the Z32 caliper was designed for a 11 inch rotor and the brackets move the rotor further from the hub for a 12.8 in rotor. My question: is this kit designed correctly? I think the brackets are moving the caliper about 4 or 5mm too far from the hub. Please enlighten/correct me if I am mistaken. http://s95014253.onlinehome.us/63104/104050.html?*session*id*key*=*session*id*val*

It's definitely an amazing car. Sounds like he has a ton of money and time into it. Make me wonder why he is selling it. If you just finished building this amazing car would you sell it? Wonder why? Also, he talks about picking up the car since its so light. Why pick a 260 then? If he wanted a light car the 240 stripped of interior and bumpers would probably be 200lbs lighter. Great car, just some open questions.