1 fast z

Its really not needed to datalog with NA cars. I dont use it on my silver car. But with around 500 WHP, things go by REALLY fast, and you cant watch. My car will go from 4k, to 8k REAL quick, and I cant monitor my WB autometer guage that fast. So I datalog. MS gets about 18 parameters, when it datalogs. SDS is just like what SDS stands for SIMPLE digital systems.

Those clutches, I would NOT recomend. XTD's I bought one, then went to balence it and it was WAY off, and it weighs 2.8 lbs more than a Luk.

Hey yasin, I got your message when you called, I was out of the shop for a few hours, Ill call you soon.

Actually my wide band is VERY close to the dynojet one. I datalog all the time, when I need to tune, gets me REAL close. Can you datalog with SDS?

Spark gap is at .025", I will knock it down to .022 or so once higher boost is reached. But for a DAILY DRIVEn street car, I tell you what, it works pretty well, and not much is faster on the street. Block is a stock N42 (I use my F54,s for when I go to the lake with my boat, and need something to keep my from drifting to shore while Im bottom fishing). Its bored to 89mm, with 83 stroke.

It will be up there with those guys, and it may surpass my expectations. Like said these are STOCk T3's STRAIGHT from the junkyard. And with a ROUGH tune, like tony said with a better compressor housing/wheel, 20 PSI is ALOT more CFM flow. This is the first time on the dyno, and hadnt even messed with spark at all at this point. I need to find another dyno shop that can actually give me some TIME on the tool, so I can get it tuned where I want it. I envy jeff, for paying so cheap on the dyno, and having so much time! Maybe we should setup some dyno time around next MSA! haha. This is also all "back yard" engineering with less in my entire vehical than most people spend on a good head rebuild/port job! Im far from finished fellas.

Just looked at the graphs, looks like it was 478 HP, I will post them shortly.I will be back before the year is over with over 600 RWHP is my short term goal. I would belive 750 Crank HP out of L series But I would have to see some substatial proof that cars are making 800+ RWHP out of SOHC heads.

Is there documentation on those numbers frank?

Thanks for the compliments, it has been alot of work, not alot of money, but TONS of work. I have about 3200 in the entire car. Clifton says it makes the same power his did at 10 less PSI. So I think thats a pretty good description on how well the head flows, and thats comparing 6 cyl to 6 cyl and 24v to 24v. My LONG term goal is to get 750 whp out of it, and have ONE of if not the HIGHEST L series EVER. I dont know if Ill get there, but that is my goal.

I think the funny part is, that these are just junkyard 280zx turbos. I have talked to others that spend BIG money on turbos and get pissed when I tell them I have 50.00 in my turbo's, HAHA.

One more.

Well with about 20 minutes on the dyno, as the dyno shop had over booked, and screwed us big time on our time frame. Clifton and I both showed up. I had big time spark issue, like its cutting in and out, I need to look at the VR sensor to Trigger wheel distance, and make sure the sensor is still tight. I had an oil leak out of the turbo, and cause some smoking as seen in the vids. It was still running rich when we I got off, but ok I guess for now. I only got 17 lbs out of it, as I wanted to crank it up after I got the afr's tuned, but ran out of time. I made 402 torque and 475 HP, at 17 lbs of boost. If tuned a bit better I think I could of got 500 HP at 17lbs. I would of up the boost to 25 lbs, and gone for the 600 mark, but no time. I will post the dyno sheet soon, for better examination. I did push it to 8,000 RPM once.

You take a special bolt, and drill and tap the third member, and insert this bolt in the side of the third member, and set it up to about .005" away and perpendicular to the ring gear, this way the ring gear cannot flex away from the pinion. Really thats what breaks gears, is the pinion and ring gear seperating from eachother, not the gear just breaking because its weak, unless you have a low low gear, to where the pinion has to get small, and makes contact area less.

Your more than welcome to PM me with any questions. When I build motors I concentrate HEAVE on piston and head combos, clearence, etc. I would hate to know what those pistons set you back, especially if they werent domed to a specific head.

Probably will only get to about 23 psi, so Im HOPING for 500 with these "cheap" turbos.

This car will be on the dyno in 6.5 hours.

Helping him, that would be saying his motor setup is not gonna work like he thinks it is, and needs to do more research or he his throwing money away, those pistons arent cheap! You need to fit pistons to heads, when a good motor builder builds an engine, they fit EACH piston to EACH combustion chamber, Ive written LONG articals on the subject.

223.99, locally. I run them on EVERYTHING, and many people on this site have seen how I drive, it aint nice!

I say false on macks statement, as the burn rate does NOT change with more fuel, I bet they added timing to help EGT's. You can put tons of fuel, but it only burns at one rate.

A 9" Has a pilot bearing, which makes it super strong ring and pinion, and with a ring gear snubber its bullet proof! A dana is WAY too heavy, and a good 9" is just as strong if not stronger. Also cheaper to build, plus you get a drop out third member with a 9".

So your engine builder speced out pistons, installed them, etc. without even knowing what head you were working with, WOW.

Still doenst make sence to me though, I can see the HP increasing, but not the EGT's lowering when pulling fuel.

So no group buy DAMN, that sucks, right when I had my hopes up, about having a dohc head!

So Tony your saying that when the turbo was glowing red, you took out MORE fuel, and that lowered EGT's? Seems backwards to me. I can see adding timing after peak torque, that would decrease EGT's.

By the way, arent these S20 Engines? Tony correct me if Im wrong.