1 fast z

You will get less detonation with a different head. Use a Maxi, or a P series head, for maximum quench. You can run 12-1 compression on 91 octane with 36 degrees full timing with a m, or p series head. I wish we had 93 at the pump on the west coast, grrrrrrrr.

Only way you get above 100% ve, is with a properly designed intake. The sound waves, need to be timed to where you PACK that sound force into the chamber when the intake valve opens. Idealy you want only one sound wave, BUT this calculates on a z, with like a 1.75" id runner, and a 7000 rpm peak power, the runner needs to be like 26 inches long, obviously not doable very easy, so you take it in multiples, say divide that by 2, 3, or 4. So when that wave is going back and fourth, and its coming back to the valve, and that valve opens at the exact same time, it will create a supercharger effect, and pack the cylinder with above 100% VE, but the cam and the intake need to be tuned for the same RPM for this effect to happen. Hope that made sense.

75 to 80 pistons have the same cc dish as the 81-83 turbo. Only difference between the two pistons is that the 81-83 turbo pistons have a 1.5mm top ring, compared to the earlier 2mm top ring, the second ring is 2mm on both pistons.

Sounds to me, that it works much like a SAFC, is this correct?

Well in those years it is a transister style ignition, the box is under the dash, on the passenger foot compartment area. So can you interface with this unichip with a laptop?

The stock ecu has NO timing controll, its all an independent system.

L series.

I go to venolia. About 54.00 a piece last I checked.

Get fully custom ones. I use Venolia in my two stroker motors, as well as other misc motors I build. To get it REAL light, and still be strong, you have to get custom machining done. When I paid for the highest lighteing I venolia offered, I took about 45 more grams off mass out of each piston after I recived them. Here is a picture of them. NA piston Turbo Pistons

Agreed, that is intriging. When do you expect to have the twin charged motor running? Are you coming to the states this year for the west coast nationals?

Are you just using it has a helper spring per say? What are you building? Toyota crawler?

I guess everyone has there own adavantages, I started machining when I was 7, so yea, I can say I was fortunate in that respect, but with it also comes alot of hard earned work, its not just play with z Cars, Mack can attest to that, has he has seen how hard I have to work for what I have. Some guys own paint shops, so they have pretty cars, etc.

Ha, yea really. The thing is, I can make lots of HP at LOWWWWWWW boost, which was my goal initially, and a cross flow head to boot! I am about 5 days from startup again, as I had to order lash caps, and wont be here till thursday. I tell you what, this motor sure is alot more complicated than my silver car. NO room with the DOHC setup, especially with twin turbs, etc. It makes me want to work on my silver car more and more, haha.

The thing is, most guys who have built good motors on this site, have more money in their motors than I do, Plus I like doing the things that most say you cant do!

As you can see by my dyno graph and videos I have posted BOTH of my stroker motors see above 8k, and my revlimeter on my turbo motor is set at 8250, and I have bounced off of it many times, with no rod failure, Agreed, I do have good dampers on both engines.

Yea, we will see, It is TORQUE and CYLINDER pressure that cause the high force, NOT HP. I MAY agree, that with over 600 ft lbs of torque at the ground you might see problems, but not 100hp per hole on fwhp. My motor makes alot higher HP than torque, so I belive I can get 700 RWHP with stock rods. With a 17.5% drivetrain loss thats about 822 FWHP.

I agree, at these prices, its worth it to see them in person and look at the quality controll for yourself you know! I am thinking about buying a set just for that reason. They look decent, dont get me wrong. I wish you could get them in a longer length though you know. Although my monster DOHC motor I built with the short 280 rods, and I built my NA motor with 240 rods. I am basicly testing TONY's theror, that stock rods are only good for 100 FWHP per hole, we will see, HAHAHA.

I love everything, BUT the turbo selection! Install a cheapo ebay turbo, it will last for quite along time, and their CHEAP. You will be much happier!

These are basicly 280z rods, for the 130mm length. Sorta sucks to get a good rod to stroke ratio, as well as limits you on piston options for over the counter pistons. There is alot that needs to go into a good rod, as far as material, certs, prep, stress-reiliving, etc. Honestly, I have pushed lots of HP and TQ, and RPM through stock prepped rods, and never had a problem. I will stick to nissan rods, with good rod bolts.

I belive engines are all internally balenced now a days. THey have sorta given up the old 400 chevy small block thinking of externally balencing.

Your P30 block is a 240z block, the E30s are L20A's.

THis is all my opinion from years of head building, take it as you wish. You would never ever ever want to remove quench pads. The increased flow you would gain, you would loose that much more effieciency on the loss of the quench and swirl effect. Your engine will detonate more with pump gas also without those quench pads. The trick is to get your head to flow great numbers but dont increase those numbers while removing the pads. I left the pads on my ported head just for that reason.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=119140&highlight=head+porting http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=99737&highlight=head+porting http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=100762&highlight=head+porting Spoon feeding has been completed.

http://www.mcmaster.com

I agree, have two N42 heads with STEEL seats, that I belive have never been replaced by how they are inserted in the head. You can usually tell a aftermarket seat.