george.bryant

Haha yes. tahts because that plug is where the PCV was installed. Until upgrading the turbo to the rb20det unit I cant fit the PCV valve there as its too long.

My inlet manifold is off. And this needs to be sorted out, so i'm gonna move my PCV valve ASAP. Whats the best way to clean out the manifold after drilling etc? Where abouts should I drill and tap for the PCV valve? Would it be be ok where I have made the red marking?

I need to move my PCV valve, where abouts would you guys recommend moving it to? I've marked a spot where I would like to move it too, would this be a suitable location? Thanks

Turns out the gearbox is fine! Its the diff! *SIGH* its so hard to find parts for these things in New Zealand (especially the south island). What else will fit in? I'm sure its a R180 diff.

I had exactly the same problem for 3 weeks. Took a while to figure out. It was the Ignition Coil Module (Switch). Get another one and swap them over and see if that helps:-)

i'm assuming its efi? check afm

I would personally go with the RB as there is a larger market for parts in Australia and from here (New Zealand). If I was you I'd sell all those parts and build a RB30DET:icon10: Oh and do you have any spare L20et parts

I still don't understand what vent line your're talking about guys, and the charcoal canister is removed as all the EGR stuff is removed...

Today I blew my gearbox. When put into a gear nothing happens but 3rd & 4th make a quiet grinding noise. So i assumed its stuffed... Its not big deal as I have to more 5spd boxes. Thing is I'm not too sure "exactly" how to removed and install the gearbox. Is there a tutorial of what needs to be anywhere? or could someone please give me some directions in order or what needs to be removed and then reinstalled? thanks alot!

People's opinions on these please http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Nissan/Exterior/auction-99220741.htm?p=7

yes i experience it everyday. i have my block and rocker cover breathing and i hate it, as does my engine. because of my large turbo i cant use the factory pcv calce location under the inlet manifold and ahve yet to remove the manifold and drill/tap a new location for the pcv valve. i cant wait to get this done. the motor chews thru oil also and deaccelerating is nasty!

Hatch seal? Are you referring to the boot seal? I shouldve stated this isn't in a Z car but in my Skyline. Should the fuel tank vent line be blocked off or breathing? I hagve removed emmision control gear so at the moment the line from the fuel tank that used to goto the carbon cannister is breathing to atmosphere.

For months now I have had to put up with the stench of fuel in the cabin. The smell has gotten stronger and stronger over time. I noticed injectors 5&6 had fuel on top of them a few weeks ago but it hasn't appeared again since. Does anyone have any idea where the smell could be coming from? Its ALOT stronger when the motor is under boost. I realise it could be coming from more than one location.... Help please its giving me awful headaches and i'm sure its gotta be bad on fuel economy.

Please post up some prices

Ok I do know what i'm doing. I jsut don't have alot of the equipment. It turned out to be the starter cranking to slow and not swtich the ignition module on. So they were both replaced and now it runs sweet as. Thanks for all your suggestions.

I absolutely love s130s, but i've never seen one here in nz. anyone wanna swap a r30 skyline for one?

I got rid of all the emission control stuff on my l20et. Charcoal cylinder is removed Line from gastank is bunged Control Valves in engine bay removed

I would like one also Jonathan, they're not easy to come by these days (especially where I live).

Maybe ill just buy it and put it on the skyline...

Have you had it running yet?

whats fog oil?

Hey guys, Car is at the auto electrican, but he can't go any further with his diagosis as the starter motor is cranking over too slowly. Hes charged the batetr and tried heavy duty truck jumper leads but had no luck. Can anyone tell me if a RB or VG etc Starter will bolt on? L series stuff isn't very easy to find here in New Zealand these days. Thanks!

Thanks Aaron I will give that a try when the car is back. I took the car to the auto electricans today to get them to try and figure out the lack of power to the coil so i can actually have the car running and be sure its not going to have another similar electrical issue. Thanks

Thats good to know about the VG30 plugs. Lurch2461 I have a spare distributor the same as the one you picture. The plug on the dizzy is the same as the l20et dizzy so i'm sure theyre interchangable. Anyone need a round for pin plug?

I did a test out of the FSM. Theres T shaped plug with two terminals (one + & -, i'm assuming?) that connects to the Ignition module. The FSM has a testtable and one of the tests is called the "Power Supply Circuit" test. It involves connecting the positive terminal of the multimeter to the | terminal of the plug, and connect ground terminal of the multimeter to the ignition coil bracket. Then tun the ket to the "ON" position. Two results and two actions of FSM: Result-------------- Action 1. 11.5 - 12.5 volts Procees to step 6. 2. Below 11.5 volts Check wiring from ignition switch to I.C. unit. My result was 0.06 volts What should I do? Also I had a issue when I was trying to start it. For about 5 attempts the fuel pump would just keep running instead of priming it for 5 seconds or whatever th duration of time is it does it for, it wouldnt stop unless I turned the key to off.