galderdi

I purchased and installed another removable adaptor. This one uses spline so I have much more confidence. It feels very strong and secure. IT has the added bonus of being recessed into the existing BOSS adaptor so it ends up being about 1/3 the depth of the other sort. This means my steering wheel is in a much more acceptable position for my long arms. My only slight complaint is the horn mechanism but I'm sure I'll figure something out. http://s332.photobucket.com/albums/m327/greg_280z_BRE/Steering%20adaptor/?action=view&current=steeringadaptor.jpg

Lizard skin adds balls you say. Well my car could do with some more balls

Thanks again for the guidance. I had another look and even had a retired mechanic friend take a look. The rod itself is most definatly on the correct way as all six have the divot in the side of the rod pointing the same way. The pistons are also all consistant. All the caps still have the "shaddow" from the corresponding bearing notch from the rod. So from this I can see I am putting them back the same way they were fitted last time. It is quite possible it was the result of someone resizing this one but it must have been a previous owner. By the way this is a spare engine which I have never had running. I will indeed take a couple of photos. I am also tempted to remove all the pistons and start from scratch to make sure there are no anomolies. I guess it is vaguely possible a rod and or cap could have been mixed up with another set or maybe the machine shop lost the cap and replaced it without telling me. There are all sorts of posibilities.

Yes they are new pistons pressed on to the original rods by the machine shop. The piston notch is pointing the same way as all the rest. I did think of the possibility of the con rod being pressed in the wrong direction but the notch for the bearing is in the correct direction (same as the other 5) it is only the characters on the cap that point the other way. The caps have not been resized.

I installed my pistons yesterday. I noticed that all the characters cast onto the end caps for the con rods were all the same direction except 1. I removed the offending end cap and was surprised to find the bearing notch was on the other side compared to the other caps. So I have replaced it with the orientation of the bearing the same as the others. This means the characters on the cap are still the wrong way around but the bearing is correct. Should I be worried? I haven't tensioned any of the con rods yet so I can still correct it if the cap orientation is more important than the bearing orientation?

Wow, thanks for all the replies. It has certainly informed my decisions. I am building a race / road engine. It is balanced so I would be expecting to occasionally hit 7000RPM on the track. I am targeting around 175 HP at the wheels. The head has been milled but not extensively. It still sounds like the twin idler is a nice to have rather than a necessity. The replies have come at a good time as I have just finished assembly of my bottom end so I will immediatly check the number of rotations. I have had my bottom end checked and it is true, but I'm not sure how my bearings will fit.

Sorry if this is a repeat. I did search with no hits but maybe the key words are different. I am considering the Kameari Twin idler chain tensioner in my L28 build. I am just wondering if anyone has any idea of how much power drain is involved with the standard tensioner? In other words how much power am I likely to gain by swapping to the Kameari setup? I know there are other advantages but I am trying to justify the cost.

Try running the car with the tank filler cap off. Just to check if there is a vacuum issue. If there is a vacuum in the tank it may not allow enough fuel to flow down the line. Or the disruption to the system could have dislodged some crud which may have blocked something like your fuel pump or filter. You might need to check them again (even if they are new).

This is my experience regarding a removable steering wheel adaptor. I think it is important information as it could potentially save lives. But do your own research as my experience was only with one particular brand. Recently I changed my seat to an aftermarket sport seat. The new seat has very high sides. Combined with my height (I am 6 foot 4 inches) I was finding it extremely difficult to get in and out of the car. The difficulty was getting my legs past the steering wheel. So I decided to buy a removable steering wheel adaptor. I purchased the type that uses balls and sockets to lock the wheel in place. I chose one that was a well known brand and it used 8 balls, 2 more balls than many of the other adaptors available. With the adaptor in my hands before fitting it seemed very solid and I did not anticipate any safety issues. I spent a bit of time fitting it only to find it could not handle event the slightest amount of twisting. Any slight pulling or pushing on one side of the wheel and it just pops and allows the wheel to spin. The twisting motion seems to force the lock/release ring to move toward the driver allowing the balls to release. It is new, I have not modified the adaptor in any way, there are no obstructions and it is fitted as intended. It is possible the lock mechanism wasn't 100% engaged. But I was checking for this while it was installed and it was extremely close to the correct position. There might have been a 0.04 inch gap. In other words the lock ring was 0.04 inches from its intended position. Keep in mind this ring is moved every time the wheel is released and locked again so I believe it is impossible to guarantee the elimination of that sort of gap each time the wheel is put back on. I believe this poses a serious safety risk so I immediately removed the adaptor. I have ordered another style which does not use balls. This one has a rather coarse spline which to me seems more sensible. So even if the lock comes lose the wheel would need to be pulled an inch toward the driver before it would stop controlling the car. I will post an update once I have given the new one a go. I am keen to hear any other similar experiences.

I think you are right but oh wow that would be fun to watch on the road "Quick turn left... No no your other left" You just need to swap the brake and gas peddle to make the experience complete. Also I don't think anyone answered the question regarding the linkage to cable connection. I assume you are running a cable from the peddle and the linkage is on the carbs? If so I have done a similar thing. I found a linkage with a connection for a cable. It has a curved groove for the cable to sit in and allows the cable to pull the linkage around when I accelerate. I then created my own termination point which attaches to the hood latch and stops the cable sheath from slipping.

I agree with HS30-H. It is in no way a 280z. Here in Aus/NZ we never received the 280z (S30). Nissan used us as a dumping ground to dispose of all their surplus L26s by extending the life of the 260z. We then went straight from the 260z to the Series 1 280zx in 1978. The S130s delivered new here were all L28 engined with no turbos. Yours would seem to be a Japanese market Fairlady Z 2+2 as alaready discussed. Because of regulations in Japan they did not sell the L28 engined cars in their domestic market. I hope they didn't sell it to you as a 280z / S30 and priced accordinly? If so they have ripped you off. There is nothing wrong with an S130 but they aren't worth as much.

Thanks for taking the time for such a detailed reply. That makes a lot of sense to me. I am aiming for torqey mid range power eg 4000 - 5500. The intake is a cannon manifold which has logish runners. The the Delortos which add to that length and the trumpets which are 65mm from memory. I haven't done the math yet but I understand the resulting length will be more suitable for power low down so I am hopeful it will support my goal. I need to retake the measurements so I can plug them into the resonance formula.

My plan is to use a standard tripple manifold with tripple Delortos with all the internals removed and injection added to the manifold. Why you ask? Well I was given the tripples so this will work out more cost effective. As I mentioned I have removed all the chokes and jets from the delortos so I am left with just a tube and a throttle in each. I am also having them machined out from 40mm to 45mm. I have new 45mm butterflies etc to go in once this is done. Now comes the question. I have conflicting information. On one hand I have been told to aim for a gradual taper starting at the trumpet and gradually reducing until it matches the port size. On the other hand I have been told to retain the restriction in the delortos as it will speed the air flow through the restriction and "charge" the air. While I agree with the concept of the second view, I don't think it would work in my case because the restriction is too far from the port. Currently the trumpets start at 45mm and it continues at 45mm until the butterfly where there is an immediate step down to 40mm, then it steps back to 45mm for the beginning of the runners which then gradually taper down until they match the ports. I think the increased air flow through the restriction is only going to be negated when it hits the slightly larger openning of the runner. My theory is that by machining out the delortos to 45mm I then have 45mm all the way from the trumpet to the beginning of the runners, then it gradually tapers down to match the port. I still end up with a restriction which is right at the port. So the air should still speed up and will continue at that speed into the head. Question 1. What is the ideal taper for a runner? Question 2. What are your views on these two oposing theories?

Here is my video from the Gatton Street sprints 2012. Sorry about the quality of the video. I was running a new seat that has me sitting a bit higher so the camera couldn't cope with the added contrast. I will need to modify my sun visor to reduce the contrast. Also it was very wet a lot of the time and had a good chance to test the hair dryer windscreen demister. If I started with a foggy window it took a while to clear but once it was clear it was quite effective in keeping it clear. No patches either.

I have the molds for the front air dam and BRE rear spoiler. I can do each for $160 plus postage. I am in Brisbane. They are the same style I have used for my car. You can check by using this link: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/89600-gregs-bre-240z-down-under/page__p__850605__fromsearch__1#entry850605 I do have a more modern style front air dam but I don't have photos from it.

Here is a video of the next motorkhana. My young protege, Joel, is driving the car. Hes doing ok considering his inexperience. He's only been in two motorkhanas and its only his 5th time driving a car at all. But he needs to learn to drive within his abilities as you can see in the video.

Its amazing to see the cultural differences. Here guns are mostly frowned upon. The exceptions are for armed forces, police, sports shooters and farmers. For private individuals it is illegal to buy or own any military grade or automatic weapons. But then again here there is very little need for them. Its absolutely terrible here. There are hardly ever any shootings for the media to report on. The media are then forced to report on car crashes and political scandal.

Put some Hybrid stickers on it.....It'll be safe.

I have a 260z tank in my 240. It hangs down a bit further and I had to use the 260z straps and bolts. The straps also do not line up with the grooves in the tank but that didn't worry me.

I used bondo to repair the cracks in a 240z dash and then used the dash to make a mold. From the mold I made a brand new glass dash. I think the results are pretty good but in hindsight I should have cut the mold to make it multi piece. That way it would have released easier. But all things considered it was a good result. It will last long term and its light weight.

Here is the video:

Attended my first event for 2012. It was a motorkhana. It sure did test the new CV conversion. All seems to be OK although I am now due for a new set of street rubber. It wasn't a very serious event but was heaps of fun as always. I hope to load some video in the next day or so. I have another one in 2 weeks

It depends whether it was auto or standard. It could be either R180 or R200. I have seen all sorts of combinations but generally an Auto will have the R180 while the standard will have the R200. Does it have the cables to open the rear windows from the centre console? If so how much do you want for them? Thanks Greg

Is it possible this is part of a home made hybrid conversion? From my understanding the APUs are perfect for a stable, constant RPM, moderate power output application. Eg a generator. Maybe by including the APU he can reduce the number of batteries usually required for a home made electric vehicle. From the photos there looks like there would still be room behind the APU for an electric motor. If I am correct I think it is an interesting conversion......for a novalty.

Are you sure you are adjust the idle screw and not the mixture screw?