EvilC

Thanks Leon - finally heading up tonight to work on the Z again and all day tomorrow. Hopefully she will be on the grounf tomorrow. I plan on chaning out the oil pressure unit as a sanity check. Today's plan is to finish the wiring harness and relay installed inside the car. Also need to run a line to the MAP sensor. Getting close.

So was able to spend all of 30 mins on the car today and excited to report that she runs! Did a quick rewire according to the diagram from the previous post and that solved the problem. She will run with some input from the gas pedal but will not idle yet because there is no true baseline timing map yet. Surprised the garage wasn't full of smoke and the car "smelled" pretty clean. Let her run for about two mins with no smoke coming from the engine itself. One issue I started to see was the oil pressure pegged itself at 90 psi. I had bought a turbo oil pump and has NISMO springs that I swapped in. My memory tells me, I thought the "NISMO" springs were just the turbo 280zx springs that you could upgrade to if you had a N/A pump. I needed the turbo pump because I am running the external spray bar for the cam oiling. Hmmmm...... Dave (cygnusx1) will be helping me dial in the webers later this week. I have to clean up the coil harness, figure out the tach signal and by a laptop to start messing with MJ this weekend. Hopefully she will be off jackstands this weekend! Updates to come this week.

Leon, that is great info on the rack - did not know that.

Thanks, all is well here. You will be first to know outside of Rags and Cygnusx1 - the L30 started up today! I will update my thread tonight.

Leon, looking good. Glad to hear the trip went well. Hopefully I am in my last day here of 16-18 hour shifts at work due to the storm from last week. I have got the MJ all hooked up and I need to run a line to the MAP sensor, I plan on putting a small fuel filter inline to clean up the noise. I will post what I come up with once done. I am sure I am going to contact you about MJ.

I work for Orange and Rockland. If you make it over this way let me know.

I saw the Texas guys here today in Rockland County. I work for O&R and will be out in the field......maybe I will run into you.

What location are you working in?

Went to visit Rags a few days ago to make sure all is well. Finally got in touch with Dave Cygnusx1....he is well. I have been on 16 hour shifts and did one 20 so far as we work to restore the lights. We are starting to attempt to restore substations so if you are seeing this, please stay away from down wires as they may be live soon. Also, if you are lucky enough to find gas, fill up all your cars again as we are bracing for another storm this Wednesday. They are calling for 40-55 mph wind gust. Hope everyone is doing well.....................

Here is a pic of what I am talking about -

Quick hand sketch of what I posted before. Pretty easy to follow and shows how the coils should be in series to run the waste spark system correctly. Will update once I rewire per my drawing.

Ok with some reading and talking with Rags, I believe we found where I went wrong. I should have read more of 1 fast Z post because the answer was right in my face. So to run waste spark the coils have to be in series not parallel like I have them wired. I will try to come up with a nice picture of this but in text form see below: 12v+ source--------------- + side of coil 1 - side of coil 1 -------------- + side of coil 6 - side of coil 6 -----------EDIS-A 12v+ source--------------- + side of coil 5 - side of coil 5 -------------- + side of coil 2 - side of coil 2 -----------EDIS-C 12v+ source--------------- + side of coil 3 - side of coil 3 -------------- + side of coil 4 - side of coil 4 -----------EDIS-B

Ok with some reading and talking with Rags, I believe we found where I went wrong. I should have read more of 1 fast Z post because the answer was right in my face. So to run waste spark the coils have to be in series not parallel like I have them wired. I will try to come up with a nice picture of this but in text form see below: 12v+ source--------------- + side of coil 1 - side of coil 1 -------------- + side of coil 6 - side of coil 6 -----------EDIS-A 12v+ source--------------- + side of coil 5 - side of coil 5 -------------- + side of coil 2 - side of coil 2 -----------EDIS-C 12v+ source--------------- + side of coil 3 - side of coil 3 -------------- + side of coil 4 - side of coil 4 -----------EDIS-B Will report back once I head to Cygnusx1 house but may be a few days.

Finally got the my engine (newly built 3 liter)started and idle with some imput from the gas pedal and oil pressure has built up. BUT the engine only runs when I have spark plug 1-2-3 connected or 4-5-6. Either combo will start the engine but not all connected at the same time. I have comfirmed timing almost 10 times now. I am attempting to start this car without the MegaJolt hooked up as EDIS should run at 10 degrees BTDC as its default setting. I have confirmed spark from each coil. I do a backfire through the carbs when I have all spark plugs are connected. Just to make sure voltage wasn't an issue, I have the 12 volt and ground source coming right from the battery. I did switch the wire around yesterday to get the correct firing order of EDIS - ACB (coil A has cylinder 1 n 6) (coil B has cylinder 2 & 5) (coil C has cylinder 3 & 4). Second issue is, after the engine running for a seconds there is more coolant around the head. I plan on head cycling the engine a few times before I am forced to pull the back off. On another side note - did a quick compression test I am getting a range from 115-150, normal? I know the engine has not been run yet and this was before I actually got her fired over. I have been hitting my head against the wall the last 24 hours thinking about this, lol. Thanks for any input.

I am working on it! Thanks for all the tips Leon. So good and bad news - Finally got the engine started and idle with some imput from the gas pedal and oil pressure has built up. BUT the engine only runs when I have spark plug 1-2-3 conencted or 4-5-6. Either combo will start the engine but not all connected at the same time. I have comfirmed timing almost 10 times now. I am attempting to start this car without the MegaJolt hooked up as EDIS should run at 10 degrees BTDC as its default setting. I have confirmed spark from each coil. I do a backfire through the carbs when I have all spark plugs are connected. I did switch the wire around yesterday to get the correct firing order of EDIS - ACB (coil A has cylinder 1 n 6) (coil B has cylinder 2 & 5) (coil C has cylinder 3 & 4). Second issue is, after the engine running for a seconds there is more coolant around the head. I plan on head cycling the engine a few times before I am forced to pull the back off. On another side note - did a quick compression test I am getting a range from 115-150, normal? I know the engine has not been run yet and this was before I actually got her fired over.

Very close to start up - Currently I have swap two wires on the EDIS to get the coils to fire in the correct order. I assumed EDIS fired ABC when in fact it is ACB so that is an easy fix. I am getting fuel to the carbs but not sure if the 260z stock e pump maintains a 4psi rating. A FPR and gauge will fix that issue if there is one. The MegaJolt is mounted in the car and needs to get the PIP,SAW and Vac siganl ran to it which is all in the car already just needs to be wired to the unit. I have a small coolant leak and retorqued the head to 65lbs. I am hoping with a few heat cycles this small leak will seal itself up if not, the head will have to be pulled at a later date. By passed the stock fuel pump relays since they are in series with a bunch of other signals so I ran a new wire that is relayed so issue solved. E fan is wired up, edis wired up and weber linkage almost complete. Had to cut the J hook very short and mod the bracket against the firewall. I plan to slot this mount so I can put the hook and rod on the same plane. So far everything is going well after pulling two very late nights on the car. DC and I are shot for now and I will have to spend a few days away from the car. So for now here are some pics: Fidanza flywheel and clutchmaster 6 puck clutch installed Finally going in Pic as of last night, 2:30am =) Feedback is welcomed, I also need to get some info on the 260z. Not sure how my tach signal works and also if I can grab it from the EDIS. I know I have to pick up that transitor box from RAGS as mine is no good. My tach pins itself at 8k when the key is on.

Thanks Alan for the info!

clutchdust was the engine in the 240z?

Tony pm sent. Joel - the RB would be nice in there OldAndy - it was a hike of a drive through the mountains to get there but well worth the trip. I knew of this car for so long and thought the owner would never sell it. Here is a link to some more pics: http://evilz.smugmug.com/Other/1976-Fairlady-Z/26073200_XmJvzH#!i=2165337982&k=kkZ4hkh

So this weekend after making a 15 hour round trip to Potsdam, Ny - this 1976 Fairlady Z is home with me in NYC! I bought the car from a guy I met 6 years ago who bought it in 1985 while stationed in Japan. He brought the car back to the US in 1989 to upstate NY. It was on the road for another 2 1/2 yrs and has not been started since. Original L20 is in the car but had been stroked to a L26 and lightened flywheel. The factory 5 speed is there and factory AC. After all these years, I got a phone call stating that he might be ready to sell the car. 4 years prior I tried to buy this car and he couldn't bring himself to sell it. After several conversations it was time for me to make the trip to go pick it up. She will need some work but is all there for the most part! Going to try and get her started as she sits and go throught the brakes and clutch.

Alan - I just picked up a 76 Fairlady and quickly noticed this: I will get a better pic once I have the car on the lift but it appears to be a pan that was installed under the trans going towards to diff.

Thanks, I was at a show this past weekend and someone was looking for a pump. I will pass along the info.

To bring this thread back - recap: You guys that have ordered from rockauto within the last two months have gotten diesel L6 water pumps. Besides looking and measuring, you have placed them in a timing cover and CAN'T spin them freely?

Nice find, was this a JY here in the states? I have had a two of the 280z style clocks and sold them for about $300 each in working condition. Did he get you the oscillator for you for your clock? It is needed to make the clock work.....if not tell him to go grab it! Very rare clock and if working sells for good money. You can always send it to Clockz to have it repaired like new but it does cost some $.

Let me know your asking price. Sorry to see you leave the Z scene but I know you wil love the BRZ!