Kris.Is.Awesome

Okay, I've seen (and read) many threads and writeups on adding an internally regulated alternator (280zx) on early Z's. I'm using an EZ wire kit, and a little unsure about EXACTLY what needs to be done, as all the writeups are for stock harness'd cars. E: is ground, got that- should go to neg on batt, correct? BAT: Is the +12v output, goes to pos on battery, no brainer? N: is the sense wire. I have an 'alt exciter' wire in my harness, is this what the N terminal needs? I believe the exciter is just a +12v wire. F: is for the lamp. I don't plan on running the ammeter (voltmeter sometime down the road). Is this where I need a diode or resistor?

My coilovers are only half done, and the car sits extremely low in the rear with 2" of shock body threaded in. Control arms are almost level! I don't know if thats good or bad

Post up what you can get, prices, sizes, offsets- etc.

5x114.3 would be nice...

Wow, wow, wow. Wow.

Well, after battling my spindle pins just like everyone else, I found a cheaper, simpler solution. Now I know I'm not the first one here, but I thought I'd share my idea. I went out in search of a monster bolt. I found exactly what I need. Grade 8 5/8" (I believe) 10" long bolt and locknut. The length is perfect, and it also deletes the pesky locking pin. It cost me about $25 for the nuts and bolts, much less than a set of spindle pins! If anyone's interested I can probably piece together a few of these!

If you were using a voltmeter make sure it was on DC, not AC. It's a mistake anyone can make (I've done it before). It's easy enough to just set the meter without really paying attention. Shot in the dark though! It will show up as a number like that

Still looking!

Shouldn't the fan pull air through the rad- from outside the bay to inside?

A photo of what I need (All the way to the right)

Yep, those are 280zx companion flanges. I need the 4 bolt ones.

Hi all, I got a nicely priced set of 280z stub axles converted to 5-lug, and now I need the 27 spline companion flanges. I'll need both, in decent condition. Thanks in advance. If you have some, my zip code is 23452. (To calculate shipping)

Nice choice. I will be going with the same option down the road sometime. I've been trying to get a hold of Ross for over a month now (you'd think that someone who's receiving almost a thousand dollars for two items I'm trying to order would be on the ball a little better). Unfortunately I can't find who he gets his parts made by and I'm stuck twiddling my thumbs until he decides to reply. I understand a busy man, but a five minute phone call won't throw the galaxy out of order. You can find the companion flange on your car (if you can wait that long.. haha) or a junkyard! 280 stub axles are as common as 280 parts cars!

Specs?

All of you deleting your boosters, does this setup give you the mech advantage you need without tiring your leg out?

Holy mother of something. That's a find!!!

Yes, I'm aware of this. It's just that when you 'clamp' the arm in, it forces the bushing apart and leaves that gap in the middle. Also (multi quoting isn't working for me) for the TC rod I used a jack to get everything close enough to get some threads in. Dropped her down and tightened everything on the ground.

Hmm, mine were a nice, tight fit but I didn't have to cut anything. The TC rod is going to be 'off' because the poly bushing is stiff as hell. Actually probably not the best option for the TC rod bushing- but I had to work all the parts together to get them to sit right and bolt up. I still cant this darn spindle pin out...

Get a bigger hammer? Good luck!

Those starred washers are there. When I set the bottom 'clamp' on the bushing it forces the bushing apart causing the gap in the middle like you see. Of all the bushings I've installed I've never seen that. Might give prothane a call tomorrow.

So that gap is okay? I've installed poly bushings on quite a few cars and have never seen this. (Already had to sand almost 1/2" off the steering rack bushings just to seat them) And trust me, plenty of grease will be used. My honda's a squeak machine.

If this is still going on, my spindle pins refuse to come out and need a little help!!!

Ran a 'test fit' of my Prothane bushings after the seized spindle pin frustrated me enough to drop it for now. This is the rear lower control arm. I believe the inner sleeve is too long- I'll let the photos do the talking. This is with the big hunkin 24mm tightened down. All the hardware is used as it was with the OEM bushings I removed. Is this supposed to be like that? AM I missing anything?

Try changing the cords, or tightening the female in the amp. I noticed that when they loosen they make little or no contact.

I don't think so. Mine are all green (I'm not sure where i got the plug from).