Kris.Is.Awesome

You've obviously got yourself a short somewhere. Time to trace the wires to that bulb!

innovate or AEM?

The yellow stuff is usually used to set gear lash.

I think it looks great, but I'm not a fan. It's completely faux, and I'd have to laugh if I were to walk up to a car with them. Other than that, at least they are built well!

Nope- 15x8,9 and 16x8,9 No offset info as of yet.

Varrstoenn also makes these, better imho.

First, remove the positive and negative cables from the batteries. Put an Ohm-meter across the positive and negative cable. If your reading is close to 0 Ohms then you have a direct short. Next, do a parasitic draw test. Make sure your battery is fully charged. Check to make sure ALL loads are turned off. Unplug anything you may have plugged into the cigarette lighter. Remove your keys from the ignition. Close all doors so the dome lights are off. Disconnect the thick positive (Red) cable that goes down to the starter. To start make sure your meter is set to the 10 amp DC range. Some meters have a special connector for the red probe when you are reading current. You can either do this next step by just holding the meter probes to their respective contact points (you won't get a shock from 12 volts) or you can use probes with alligator clips to snap them in place so your hands are free to do something else. Connect the positive probe to the battery - either battery is fine, electrically speaking, since they are connected together by the negative (Black) wires. Polarity on digital meters doesn't matter because they are autosensing. Connect the negative probe to the red cable that is still connected to the vehicle. Make sure this cable and your probe do not touch ground. If there is a severe current draw (more than 10 amps) it will either pop a fuse in your meter or destroy it outright. That's why you need to test for a short, otherwise, your meter should now be reading the current drain on your battery. If your vehicle has an alarm system or remote locks, the current draw may be around 2-3 amps for a few minutes after you last close the door. This is normal. If you're not sure, wait at least 20 minutes after you last open or close a door before you take a reading. If everything is normal, you will read less than 35 milliamps, or .035 amps. If the current drain is higher than that, you need to find out what is draining your batteries: You can start by pulling fuses until the load goes away. If that doesn't reduce the draw, you need to look for a wire that is corroded or frayed.

Bump, this is all I need to finish my car!

If you're getting down to the stub axles, will you part with the bearing distance piece if it's a "b" size?

Hey everyone, I've somehow lost my distance pieces to my rear hubs. The casting is marked B, so I need the middle length pieces. Thanks.

I just cut slices of pie out of tube, no crazy sheet stock pieces.

I use a JD2 Model 32. It's amazing! It has a few cool features that the model 3 does not have, along with most other benders (anti spring back, easier die advancing, etc). I did not opt for the hydraulic option as I'm building my own ram setup. I use countersunk concrete 'threadsert' anchors and it works great. Bending 1.5" .120dom isn't even that bad.

Adjustable prop valve with a bias adjuster should do you well.

Wow, that's almost identical! I think that'll do it.

Hi all, I'm beginning to work on my 240 again and I'm ordering everything I need to finish it. I have the Z-store rear caliper bracket kit ( http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PBC12/24-5581 ). I'm ordering 88 maxima rear calipers, and I came to a snag when I realized the rotors it calls for ( 83 280zx) are 4-lug. I'm going 5-lug with this car. Is there a rotor that fits my needs, say the first gen 300zx? Or am I looking at ordering these 4 lug rotors and having them drilled to 5 lug?

Pro-link brackets and the rear of the rear crossmember at 24" from axle centerline. The magic link design, and the magic number.

I'm more of a structural steel (Thicker- 3/16" is what I do alot) welder, but the same applies to sheet metal (mostly). Slow yourself down- you're not hot enough, and you still have a tall bead. Try some fillet or T welds. Keep your wire in the corner at a 45-60* angle. Move slowly in a constant line. Worry about swirls and flowers and shapes that don't really help unless you're trying to straighten an axle with a welder, more on that some other time haha.

Good to see you're still messing with it!

In for coil bind posts!

I roll my fenders before I even bother guesstimating fittment. It looks close- Only one way to find out! Do it right, find a QUALITY fender roller, and use heat! And good luck

I'm still somewhat in the dark here

I have already added relays for my on/acc stuff. The only thing I'm wondering is the N and F wires. The sense wire just needs a 12+ ignition wire- the excitor wire in the harness, right? I don't have a low fuel light. There are lots of different answers for this including the 3a diode.

This?

Try a longer tip first. Cheapest, easiest possible solution. Edit: and to clean them, learn how to work a small buffing wheel

Anybody?