Kris.Is.Awesome

I believe you're wrong. He removed the threaded sleeve that the actual shock body threads into- making the collars that actually touch the spring control the ride height. The ride height is adjusted by rotating the shock body, making the preload independent from ride height. Typical S13 coilovers have height, and spring preload adjustment, as seen in the photo above, and even in the Arizona setup.

So he removed the threaded sleeve? Turning his what should be preload adjustment into his ride-height adjustment. That's a no-no in my book- especially if he just welded the threaded section onto the strut housing. Yeah- it'd work. But I would think they'd be aluminum, and if not welding to an actual strut/shock wouldn't be too friendly on the guts. Maybe I'm misunderstanding something here. Now the Serial Nine weld-on tube is awesome, and would make it possible to use just about any coilover with the S30, so long as it's a 2" piece, with the same thread.

Here's just a generic S13 setup- Did you cut the 'ears' off of the fronts, or leave them there? What did you do with the rear mounting points? Just let them 'chill' inside the strut tubes?

Agreed- it's super obvious you're getting coil-bind.

Th front one was gone, an the back one was in bad shape- Oh, I'll be keeping them. And my apologies for posting in the wrong place.

A buddy of mine who frequents a local pick-n-pull informed me about a 240z that was ready to have parts pulled- Long story short I just returned from the junkyard with a full interior (minus dash and seats) including all the diamond vynl, allllll of the plastic trim pieces, door panels, a front grill, a bunch of clips and random trim, wiper arms, and what I believe is an Ansa dual tip exhaust for a pocket burning..... $50.88 Anyone else get any crazy junkyard finds?

Yeah, most harness bars are NOT in the same plane as the main hoop- being that the hoop usually is too far forward to keep the harness bar in plane.

Sounds like you're binding coils. Pics may help!

Clodbuster?

Car is 'flinstoned' now. Floors are out!

So I have just about everything working electronically. I have a few questions I hope ya'll can assist me with. I'm working on the dash area ATM- and I've noticed alot of splices, and wires that turn into other colors.. etc- some is a bit baffling. Right now I have the coil powered by the ignition via the harness' "COIL+" wire, not the tach. I found it simpler to run that way. Is the B/W wire (coil +) the wire that gives the tach it's signal? The coil resistor is wired in to the ignition aswell, instead of going to the tach. Again- for simplicity. Do both of these wires need to meet back up at the tach? One more... The B/W wire from the voltage reg turns to green and goes to the fuel, water and oil gauges, tach, and hazard switch? Things like this confuse me just a bit. What do the gauges and haz switch have to do with the VR?

Let me know if you need anything. And Fortune is producing coilovers for the car, let me know if you want in on the group buy!

Awesome. Hah, I heard you bought one- interesting to see how it goes. If you need any help with it let me know! I'm pretty deep in mine.

I've seafoamed every vehicle I've had. Every time, same story. Smoother idle, more 'pep'. I love the product!

Thank you- I've been slacking on updates here due to the lack of real interest in the project. Here's the dash and it's harness. Now it's totally 'un-wound' and I'm using it to integrate with my EZ-harness. Headlight/turn wiring, pass side firewall hole pass side harness accross interior firewall rear lighting, fuel system ect yet to be run, pass side engine power wiring, fused circuits fuse box steering column ignition before grinding I just dropped the car off to get the floorpans installed, more to come!

What camber plates are those?

Thumbs way up It must be nice to have the cash to back that one up.

Wow, very clean install. And an awesome out of the way spot to put it!

The interior must go and the floor should be exposed. Yes I'm also replacing the rails. It's not just some guy in a garage, this is a large shop. I'm doing my homework

He's a big part of the local automotive community. I've seen quite a few cars that he did work on. Most recently- a quarter panel job on a 01' Civic coupe. It was my buddies car, and I saw the progress along the whole process. The attention to detail, thoroughness, and final outcome was outstanding.

I was told it shouldn't be moved. I just don't see the point in running those wires there.

The FSM's I have are kinda vague for me. I got the ignition sorted out and I'm moving on to the rest of the car. I was told the resistor can not be relocated/wired anywhere else but where it sits (next to the coil). I'm sort of confused by that because in the diagram the resistor bridges two ignition wires, and the coil doesn't even connect to it until the tach.

Wow, you guys are getting raped. I just got quoted $400 for both sides if the car is 'prepped'.

Hmm, maybe someone can help. I need to know what the wires coming from the ignition go to- Or which ones are 12v constant/ignition/start etc.

I'm still deciding how to use the stock dash with the harness kit. But I think I may hardwire the ignition/switches. Here's what I've got. I believe I have the pigtail for the ignition- just dont have the diagram/schematic for it. Im working on the front section and have just a few loose ends to tie up: The harness is labeled with these wires- ALT PWR ALT EXCITOR COIL POS TACH CHOKE SOLENOID PWR IGN SW START The instructions would be great provided I had a Ford, Chevy, or Mopar- but I don't. Any help? Also- how is the coil wired up? Where does it go? All i have are cut wires...