Kevin Shasteen

David, Your in Dallas(?)! If you're looking for a custom driveshaft shop; there's one that has been in Dallas for ump-teen years. From I35-e take I30 heading west like your gonna go to Ft.Worth. Almost immediately after you're on I30 look to your right & you should see the main Dallas U.S.Post office; take that exit as if you're gonna go to the post office. Once you're on the service road get in the left lane & go to the Stop Light & take a Left under I30 (basically making a U-turn) & the driveshaft shop is right there on your right. Its basically on the other side of I30 from the Post Office. I've always found them reasonable; they'll work w/what ever you need & they can balance any custom driveline in their own shop! I believe they have some crazy name like "The Driveline Shop" or "Driveshaft Shop"....what a silly name!

quote: Originally posted by John Scott: To only have a LIVE CAM in Mike's Garage. No offense Mike as you have an excellant packaged car-but, do your neighbors ever ask what kind of Frankenstien your building? Of course if I were your neighbor you'ld probably have to run me off w/a stick as your car seems like the kind of set up all of us would like to have. About the floors; since you have them out & it is your goal to do the 200mph thang; have you considered stepped underbodies, diffusers or turning vanes to redirect the air in an attempt to sssllipppp thru the air w/minimal drag by removing the usual turbulence? Wouldnt now be the time to consider such a radical animal?

quote: Originally posted by pparaska: So I guess my question is, if Scottie went to a 3.9:1 diff, he'd be turning 6200 rpm at 122.5 mph. I don't know what the torque curve looks like for his setup, but I'd be surprised if it's down too much at that rpm. [/b] I wasnt initially going to do this; but it looks like we're now, more-less reading from the same page. Remember the final gear ratio is not the gears in the rear but the gear attached to the wheel/rim touching the ground/surface. Adding a larger tire is comparable to increasing the diff.gears (slightly) and its easier/quicker/cheaper. Saying that; I will also agree that theory has to take into account the "Jerk" factor; in this case the "Jerk" factor being that fine line where fanasty (Theory) fades off & reality kicks in; You know Nervanna-The State of Perfect Nothingness, where we gearheads prefer to be: No limitations like gravity, cutting thru the wind/drag.., ect. Having said that-here's my numbers for Scottie's set up. I've factored in three diff.gear sets 3.5, 3.7, 3.9 with three different tire sizes 275/50/55, 275/55/15 & 275/60/15's to see what their affect on mph would be at three different RPM's: 6500, 6000 & 5500rpm's...you be the judge of the results. 1a) 3.5, 275/50/15 (25.8 tires) 6500rpm's = 142mph w/final drive ratio=3.525 6000rpm's = 131mph w/final drive ratio=3.527 5500rpm's = 120mph w/final drive ratio=3.529 1b) 3.5, 275/55/15 (26.9"tires) 6500rpm's = 148mph w/final drive ratio=3.510 6000rpm's = 137mph w/final drive ratio=3.510 5500rpm's = 125mph w/final drive ratio=3.510 1c) 3.5, 275/60/15 (27.9"tires) 6500rpm's = 154mph w/final drive ratio=3.510 6000rpm's = 142mph w/final drive ratio=3.510 5500rpm's = 130mph w/final drive ratio=3.510 2a) 3.7, 275/50/15 (25.8"tires) 6500rpm's = 134mph w/final drive ratio=3.711 6000rpm's = 124mph w/final drive ratio=3.711 5500rpm's = 114mph w/final drive ratio=3.711 2b) 3.7, 275/55/15 (26.9"tires) 6500rpm's = 140mph w/final drive ratio=3.711 6000rpm's = 129mph w/final drive ratio=3.711 5500rpm's = 119mph w/final drive ratio=3.711 2c) 3.7, 275/60/15 (27.9"tires) 6500rpm's = 145mph w/final drive ratio=3.711 6000rpm's = 134mph w/final drive ratio=3.711 5500rpm's = 123.43 w/final drive ratio=3.711 3a) 3.9, 275/50/15 (25.8"tires) 6500rpm's = 127mph w/final drive ratio=3.911 6000rpm's = 118mph w/final drive ratio=3.911 5500rpm's = 108mph w/final drive ratio=3.911 3b) 3.9, 275/55/15 (26.9tires) 6500rpm's = 133mph w/final drive ratio=3.911 6000rpm's = 123mph w/final drive ratio=3.911 5500rpm's = 112mph w/final drive ratio=3.911 3c) 3.9, 275/60/15 (27.9"tires) 6500rpm's = 138mph w/final drive ratio=3.911 6000rpm's = 127mph w/final drive ratio=3.911 5500rpm's = 117mph w/final drive ratio=3.911 After crunching all these numbers;what I found interesting is the final drive didnt change much from the diff.gears, however, its obvious the mph is drastically different in relationship to changes in tire diameter. Definately something that makes you stop & go, HMmmmmm(?) Ok, I've now added my .02c worth for the 5th time; you guys have had to put up w/a whole dimes worth (hope I'm not wearing out my welcome). Kevin,

quote: Originally posted by Scottie-GNZ: The why is the GNZ at least not gaining 27mph in the 2nd half? [/b] Scottie, I hate unresolved issues. As I've said previously-I'm not familiar w/turbo's nor the Buick V6's powerband. However, I'm very familiar w/tire sizes, gear ratio's & the ole 1/4mile formulas. Here's my take on a possible even powerbandfor the 1/4mile. As we all know you posted three recent runs; each gave a best ET,MPH & 1/8 mile yet none were in the same run. What I did was took the best of all three; as this indicates what your car is capable of doing & played w/nothing more than the tire sizes. Your currently running: 1) 2800lbs car w/driver in it 2) Best of all three runs yielded a) 396HP 11.3 ET c) 122.51mph 3) 3.545 rear gears 4) 26"tires...(actually 25.8"tires) Now; doing nothing more than up'ing the tire diameter-we can notice the difference in mph; but first we have to determine your RPM's at you fastest 122.51 run. Correct me if I'm wrong but my figures indicate your RPM's are @ 5655 at the 1/4traps. I) Your already running 275/50/15 A) 275/50/15's yielded 5655rpm's @ 122.51mph 275/55/15's would put 5655rpm's @ 127.7mph C) 275/60/15's would put 5655rpm's @ 132mph These are theoretical #'s of course; but its something to think about. The larger tire size would lower your rpm's & help your engine stay on top of its Powerband; as you've indicated...it appears your car is stronger in the first 1/8mile than the last. At least that's my take on it; once you get the FI/Boost & all that other turbo stuff figured out-you might break the 10's. One last comment-Do you drive this car to the tracks or trailor it; if you drive it do you feel your exhuast may inhibit the eng's ability to breath hurting the turbo's ability to "Power Up"....probably a stupid quesiton coming from someone who doesnt understand turbo's. If this is a trailored car; why dont you lose the alternator & add a 2nd turbo-that should get you into the 10's relatively easy; of course "Relatively Easy" is a relative term. Ok...that makes my .02c worth now for about the 4th time; does that mean ya'll had to endure me for .08cents worth? [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited February 13, 2001).]

quote: Originally posted by Mikelly: Food for thought for those owning businesses... Notice how easy Tire Rack JUST lost a several hundred dollar sale....HMMMM Mike [/b] Hey Mike; I grew up in a self employed family-when I hit the real world I became to familiar w/what my parents put up with all those years....Good Help Is Hard to Come By. If you get a competant employee-it sometimes pays to pay them a little more! Also keep in mind with the soft market now days-its hard to stay in the black w/the higher pay'd salary's....& sometimes accidents do "Just Happen" especially if your lunch includes smoking reefers & watching Cheech-n-Chong reruns.

quote: Originally posted by Drax240z: Kevin, I think you are grossly underestimating the power of both engines here! Scotties 13.09@110.97mph with his L series puts him at 293rwhp, given a 2750lbs car.The 11.5@122mph with the GN puts him somewhere around 389rwhp, in a 2750lbs car. Drax, Sorry bout the confusion-Scottie-I certainly wouldnt want to short anyone on their pride-n-joy. I was on an empty stomach when I first ran my set of #'s. Had to go thru all the forums before I found Scottie's previous post where he gave times w/his mph's. I admitted earlier I was in unfamiliar territory when it came to turbo's & superchargers: still we are talking about the bottom line-ET's & MPH at the end of the 1/4. After recrunching the #'s...this time two & three times to confirm the outcome: this is what I came up with. Scottie's previous postings of his most recent ET's/Mph: 1) 11.38 @ 118.26 2) 11.8 @ 121.86 3) 11.9 @ 122.51 There are multple ways of figuring hp; You can obtain HP from weight/Mph or you can obtain HP from ET's & Weight. I ran both. I only ran Scottie's first & last runs as they indicate his fastest ET & Fastes MPH. 1)From his best ET of 11.38 I took that number & Divided it by 5.825 & with that answer 3'd (Cubed) it; then took his 2800lbs (weight of his car w/him in it) & divided that by the previous answer......this equals 375hp. 2)From the third run I took his quickest MPH of 122.51 & divided that by 234; this number gets 3'd (Cubed); after cubing it then take that number & multiply it by 2800lbs (weight of the car w/driver in it).....this equals to 396Hp. The 396hp figure; factored w/his 26"tires & 3.545 gearing should equate to a 121.9mph The 375hp figure: factored w/the above equate to a 119mph...exactly what his #'s indicated. We can stretch this out one step further to determine the theoretical ET. This is done by Dividing the weight of his car w/driver in it 2800lbs by the 396Hp; cube root that number & multiply it by 5.825...this should yield an 11.1 ET. Yes I messed up somewhere in my first calculations. However, My point still stands...if the same old thing isnt getting you where you need to be; then you cant expect any improvements by doing the same old thing....something has to change. Its obvious his car is stronger in the first 1/8mile & not as strong in the 2nd 1/8 mile. There needs to be a balance. Torque will fall off when V.E.(Volumetric Efficiency) begins to fall off. This is unavoidable as rpm's get further away from maximum V.E. However, one who races needs the torque fall off to be somewhere in the proximity of where HP peaks; after all-HP is a function of torque, not the other way around. If you can balance out the torque/Hp-which the proper gearing will do: this should yield you a better balanced ET-both in the first 1/8th mile & in the last 1/8mile of the 1/4. Isnt this what we gearheads are always doing-attempting to obtain the most power & then trying to stay on top of the powerband w/in a limited distance traveled? Good luck Scottie in figuring it out & congrat's on hitting the 11's...the Low 11's; very few of us ever get to that mark. Again; just my .02c worth. [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited February 13, 2001).]

quote: I feel the main focus on this is the torque and rpm relationship. Terry [/b] Scottie, I feel Terry is correct. Look at the comparisons between your L28Tz & GNz. About the same weight. The fact you obtained a low 14Et from the miniscule torque output of the L28Tz is proportional. Keep in mind you had larger rear gears & smaller tire diameter for the L28Tz; this allowed you to run your RPM's higher-keep your speed up on shifts & stay on top of what power was being put forth. Now you have the same car w/different engine; or a different car w/different engine; anyway, you have higher gears (3.545) & larger tires. In your old set up your overall gear ratio (including tires/rear gears w/trans 1:1 ratio) put you at the 3.7/3.9 area. With your current set up you now have an overall gear ratio of 3.4; all that to say this-you have more hp but your rpm's are lower. I will confess I'm not up on the Buick V6 power curve nor turbo's/superchargers-but my #'s I ran; whose peramiters mock your set up indicate your putting out 290-314hp (RWHP). That's not to shabby from a V6-even if it is turbo'd. All in all I feel you've max'd out your current set up; unless you still have a few tricks up your sleeves I think the only alternative would be to run slightly smaller tires in an attempt to increase your rpm's at the trap. Until you break that wall (Sound Barrier) I think the drag factor has your number on it. And we all know what a "Jerk" the drag factor can be sometime-All right John, What did you do w/my Jerk-meter? Just my .02c worth. [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited February 13, 2001).]

Congratulations Ellobo; Sounds like the car hooks well. I'm jealous-still havent been able to budget my conversion in yet. By the way; I remember you decided you wanted to go to a T-56; I posted some Dallas Salvage Yard ph#'s; did you see that post? Let us know when you get a chance to go thru the 1/4 traps: I'm expecting Low 12's or high 11's from ya!!

One other point about that Z (by the way its a very sweet looking Z) is that he spent so much money in his engine & all he got out of it was 385hp(?)! W/half the cost of what he's got in his engin & very little massaging of the SBC motor: you could easily obtain 400hp; and at a lower comp.ratio & lower rpm as well as reaching higher torque at a lower rpm than the inline 6. All you would need for a V8 to make that kind of power (385hp) is: 1) 355 V8...only 9.5:1 Comp.Ratio 2) 268H Comp Cam 3) AFR Alluminum Cyl.Heads 4) Edelbrock (DUAL PLANE MANIFOLD) other than a mild street porting of the cyl.heads to clean the ports up the rest of the machine work would be rather routine. That engine should make right at 380hp @ 5400rpms while peak torque comes in at 401 @ 4100rpm's. You would have money left over compared to the amount spent on making the inline 6 perform the way it did. I gaurantee you that inline 6 putting out 385hp doesnt have a comp.ratio lower than 10.0:1. Also notice he was bragging about the hp but didnt say anything about the torque(?). The above SBC engine I described could easily make another 30-40hp if you wanted a drag car: simply go up to a higher 292H Comp Cam, bump the comp.ratio to 10.5:1 & use an Edelbrock Single Plane Manifold-of course the engine wouldnt be a daily driver-but you see my point: SBC Hi/Po aftermarket parts are by way cheaper & more plentiful than Datsun/Nissan Hi/Po parts & its easier to reach your goal on a SBC than an inline 6. One last point: 400hp is just barely beginning to scrape the power potential for a SBC, therefore, a 400hp SBC engine is going to be pretty dependable: whereas, a 385hp inline 6 is going to be pretty temperamental-very stressed out engine. Still, the car is a sweet looking Z. [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited February 13, 2001).]

Chris, How long have you lived in Richardson; I lived in Richardson in the late 60's to early 70's; went to Richardson Heights up to 4th grade. If/when you decide to look for a doner car (providing you want to do the conversion yourself) be sure & check Hybridz's Buy/Sell Forum & check in on all the other Z-club sites in their Buy/Sell Forums also. You can also go to Auto Trader on the Net & confine your search to 70-73240z's for a nation wide search...there are some pretty decent bodies out there & there are some pretty rusted parts cars out there. Good luck & have fun & ask lots of questions.

quote: Originally posted by Mxyzptlk: i currently have a '97 Honda Prelude type-SH...but it just isn't me. i could sell my lude for ~$17K...what could i do with a Z for that much money? could a 240ZV8be made for RELIABLE daily-driving? -Chris mxyzptlk@home.com Chris, Its nice to see a Honda Convert jump ship to the Hotrod crowd; congratulations! As for your first question $17k would get you an extremely complete pkg. Your second question about reliability depends on how extreme or conservative of a car you want & how you choose to drive that car. As far as little/big things you'ld need to know; there are always things to know when transplanting a powertrain from one species to another. I'ld suggest calling JTR (Jags That Run) as it was their kit/book that really made the swap handle properly. In their book they explain the basics & point our what wires are needed; as well as brake hook ups. The comments you find on this cite; IMHO far exceed where JTR left off, however, having their book in front of you will offer a point of reference; a common ground. Once you've read their book-it will all make sence to you. JTR's address & Ph# is: Stealth Conversions Datsun Z V8 Parts PO Box 11411 Pleasanton, CA 94588....ph#510.462.3619 Stealth Conversions is also on the Net: just do a search for V8z's & their cite will pop up. If you're interested in how much $$'s it will or could take, go back to the Chevy V8 Tech Forum on HybridZ & click on the 2nd page; scroll down till you come to a thread entitled "Some Mondy Figures". This thread should give you some insight as to what you could eventually spend. The bottom line is; what are your skills-what part of the process can you do yourself & how much of the conversion will you have to farm out. What used parts can you live with -vs- Must Have New. How many Hi/Po parts or weight reducing (Alluminum) parts do you want. The first step to recovery is realizing you have a problem; realizing you need a V8z as opposed to a stock Honda is your first step....consider HybridZ the rest of your 24 step program......you're on your way! [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited February 12, 2001).]

quote: Originally posted by johnc: I think its your jerk-factor: In ISO 2041 (1990), Vibration and shock - Vocabulary, page 2: "1.5 jerk: A vector that specifies the time-derivative of acceleration." In the aerospace industry they even have such a thing as a jerkmeter; an instrument for measuring jerk. [/b] Okay, I thought the slide-rulers were off limits to John; or was that just sharp instruments in genreral?

quote: Originally posted by Morgan: A l28t complete is around 475lb. That's with manifolds, turbo, alternator, etc, etc. Ahhh, thanks Morgan; I once again can sleep at night!!

quote: Originally posted by blueovalz: I don't usually visit this side of the neighborhood, but saw a question I could help on. I weighed the L24 when I swapped it out for the V8. The L24 wieghed 425lbs. This was with alternator and manifolds (basically the whole engine dry with no A/C); the L28 weighs an additional 20lbs due to the addt'l intake manifold mass. Terry Thanks Terry, I basically gave up ever knowing the actual/proximate weight of the L28 as Nissan seems rather criptic about it & doesnt ever list it in any of their resource books; at least not any books I currently have. Kevin,

quote: Originally posted by toddekindred: Does anyone know the weight of the L28 engine with all the accessories? I hope so; I too have wondered about the weight of the L28. I have 6 books on the Z; two of them on how two restore it & the other four are manuals for different years....not one of them lists the weight of an L28. I may be anal retentive (I prefer Pathologically Focussed-Much kinder & politically correct for my ego) but I would like to know specifics down to the last lbs. of what is gained & lost by the removal of the 6 & installment of the V8. I know the V8 weight will depend upon the use of alluminum; but atleast the SBC crowd has the weight #'s documented. Sorry for the rambling-I too have wondered about the weight of an L28. Anyone else know?

quote: Originally posted by pparaska: I was around a V8Z at the Atlanta Convention in 1995. Mr. K. (Z car "creator") saw it, loved it, and signed his name to the dash , I heard later. That's what gets me. If Mr. K sees no problem with a V8 Z, why should anyone else? Pete, Thanks Pete (Mr.K) couldn't think of his name. Lonerider; I agree w/you there should be a balance-but even when I see a nicely restored Z to original specs; I dont put the owners car down & tell them how slow it is & that it could be better if he does this or does that: Instead, I'm pleased to see a nicely restored car. Likewise; they should be thrilled that the Z is getting PR in a field it previously never had a chance in. W/a V8 the Z is now out performing Vettes, Stangs, & all those other European cars. If its good enough for Mr.K then it should be good enough for the inlines 6r's. I'm sure when Columbus asked the Bankers for addt'l funds to transplant his 6 for a V8; so he could sail to the new world; they all asked him why-you dont need a V8; besides you do know the world is flat...Hmmm, when will they stop thinking from the inside ot the box? [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited February 10, 2001).]

quote: Originally posted by EPS: Kevin, VINTAGE AIR in San Antonio, TX has what you need. I mounted my compressor lower left driver side using their brackets, with some modificationsupply. Thanks EPS; I'm not ready to begin my conversion (V8 Enlightenment) yet; I do have the "How to Install A/C" book which has Vintage Air's address but didnt list their ph#. It's nice to know the compressor will install on the lower left side-I feel much better when an A/C Compressor is mounted low instead of high. This way its always got oil for lubrication when it's engaged. I know I could call info fot their ph#; but if you have it-please list it. Thanks for the info.

quote: Originally posted by schoolbus z: Greetings, Let's have a moment of silence for the passing of a crazy 240Z................ Russell schoolbus z Guys, Dont be so callose; he asked for a moment of silence........Hmm Hmm Hmm, Hmmm, Hmm: OK THAT'S LONGE ENOUGH; WHAT'S IN IT FOR ME!!

I dont know about the rest of you but when I first saw him laying rubber (besides the on coming traffic thing); All I could thing about is how in the world could a purist not want their car to perform like that???? Not putting down purists...I understand their motive to preserve the Z for posterity's sake.....But the Rocket Launching/Put your but back in the seat feeling......That's the way a Z is suppose to run; who cares if we (Included Myself as a Future V8Z guy) are always looked down by the Z Clubs as rebel chop-shop specialists. You know good & well if that Z/Engineer-what's his name; An Asian guy responsible for seeing the 240Z brought to life; anyway-you know who I talking about; put him in a bad to the bone V8Z & run-em thru the 1/4 mile...you know he'ld be smilen w/a Possem Eaten Grin from ear to ear on his face. He'ld probably say something like; "Not bad round eye-not bad indeed." Sorry for the asian slurr-I Grew up on Black Belt Theater movies every Saturday morning as a kid. Nuf-said. [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited February 08, 2001).]

I've seen a few post discussing what brackets work & dont work: I too am interested in that subject as my Z has A/C & when I do get to begin my convesion I would like to mount my compressor basically in the same place it is now. Anyway, the reason I've posted this is to shout to the world that "Chevy High Performance" has an article in it about the SBC short/long water pump issue & sources for brackets of all kinds of set ups: some interesting ideas. Here are their sources: Classic Industries 714.847.6887 or 800.854.1280 D&R Classic Automotive 630.393.0009 or 800.472.6952 Edelbrock 310.781.2222 or 800.416.8628 Mr.Gasket Co 216.688.8300 or 888.MRGASKET Holley Perf.Prod's 270.782.2900 or 270.781.9741 March Performance 734.729.9070 Moore Automotive 734.729.9070 Moroso Perf.Prod's 203.453.6571 Original Parts Group (OPG) 714.841.5363 or 800.243.8355 TD Perf.Prod's 562.921.0404 Year One 800.932.7663 Zoops Products 909.922.2396 Big Block Chevy Parts 480.981.3096 Canton Racing Prod's 203.481.9460 Dont just list these #'s for later sake: the article also lists part#'s for about 100 parts...some pullies, other brackets.

quote: Originally posted by RON JONES: Kevin,I hate to tell you this but Spence has not been active on this site for quite some time.But how knows he might be lurking around here. Ron, Thanks; I didnt even look at the date of his post-just saw his complaint & my insurance instincts were triggered. I see now it was Ellobo's power trax entry that posted Spence's old complaint: Ellobo-That Wascally Wabbit! Anyway; the info goes for anyone who feels they have been wronged; as a consumer. You do have rights. [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited February 07, 2001).]

quote: Originally posted by MYRON: I would suggest not using that converter. I had a B&M 10" 2700 stall that would flash at 4500rpm..."HATED IT"!.. I had traction problems and it was just obnoxious to drive at anything less than 4500 rpm. I put a stock unit back in the car and it is so much nicer to drive.. Myron, I'm glad you chimed in; I thought I remembered somewhere in the past that you had a stall cvtr you were not happy with. Would hate for another V8Z enthusiast to go down that same road when he/she didnt have to. Myron, when you say stock; what do you mean by stock. What was the brand name/diameter in inches(?). Also if I remember your ride has a pretty healthy cam. Why are you selling your old ride & what are your expectations/predictions for your 78Z. Streetable -vs- All out Race/Eng?

quote: Originally posted by SpencZ: Mike...I just discovered that I got screwed I realized that what I was looking at was an open differential that looks like a clutch posi. I wrote a I'm very pissed and don't like feeling like I've been bent over a chair. SpencZ Spence, Document everything you've been thru, everyone you've talked to & what date/time you talked to them & what they said: Especially what the retailer said. take pictures of the gears as they were when your received them. If once its installed & you discover its not a posi-you have all the possibilities of a "Consumer Complaint" suit against the seller. Another issue to take note: Make sure you have shown this axle to your neighbors & any other credible individual as a witness. If you havent shown it to anyone & install or change it by welding it-the Def.Atty. if it comes to it can claim "Spoliation" of the Evidence which may dimish judgement in your favor. Have your neighbors sign a sworn statment that they veiwed the contents in an undamaged, unchanged manner-you can have that statement notarized or have two or more witnesses sign said statments: this is the same as a notary. Before you install tje unit; call the retailer once more & explain to him/her if you act on their advice & install the unit/later to only find out its not a posi-they will find themselves on the wrong side of a "Consumer Complaint." Dont be ruthless/threatening-its beyond personal now should be nother more than business. Of course its personal-but your complaint is business-that is how you should conduct yourself. Keep everything on a Professiona and Business level. If that conversation goes something like this: Sorry Mr.Spence, that is how the unit was marketed & sold to us, We cant help you! Your comeback should be, I'm not interested in how it was sold to you-that is between you & them. I'm specifically referring to transaction whereby said unit was sold to me by your company. THEY ARE RESPONSIBLE TO YOU FOR THE PRODUCT THEY SOLD TO YOU; Anything outside of the transaction between you/them is "OFF POINT" & is immaterial. Dont worry about them; once you settle w/them they will in turn file a consumer protection complaint against the wholesaler that passed them the faulty goods (They get their money in the long run also). KEEP IN MIND THIS COMPANY THAT SOLD THE UNIT TO YOU IS RESPONSIBLE TO YOU. THE WHOLESALER THAT SOLD IT TO THEM IS NOT RESPONSIBLE TO YOU BUT TO THE RESAILER THEY SOLD IT TOO. It can get confusing sometimes; but have patience. Then after talking w/the retailer & they still hold true that it is a posi; hang up & write them a letter restating everything you just said to them on the phone. Carbon Copy a copy for yourself. Mail it to them Certified w/Return Receipt Requested. This protects you from any defense on their part-that you acted on your own & possibly damaged the unit as a result from your actions. Maybe to provide a little peace of mind; most consumer protection complaints are settled out of court; there are just a few steps & hurdles to go thru...the most important step is to protect your interest by making your complaints up front & documenting them some how-this creates a record for the court to look at if the need arises. Every state in America has extremely harsh laws against retailers that take advantage of consumers; thus the laws are in favor of the consumer. The courts hold retailers to a higher standard-they are suppose to be the experts. Consult an atty who handles consumer protection compaints & he/she will tell you the same. Most consumer protectiion laws also allow for damages beyond your out of pocket exp's: this is why they are usually settled out of court: Courts hate BIG OLE MEAN "INC" Companys taking advantage of LITTLE OLE CONSUMER. I Emphasized those two because insurance co's defending these complaints know that States dislike giant co's taking advantage of consumers. Dont weld the gears; if you discover its not a posi-this will/could diminish your chances of any indimnification. One other point to remember; if this retailer is a Corporation; then they have to have insurance to operate; or they are self insured. If they have insurance-then you/your atty will be dealing w/their insurance...(Deep Pockets and will most likely settle out of court); if they are Inc. but are self insured-then they cant afford a costly consumer protection complaint & should be more than willing to cooperate. First & foremost, you have to exhuast your administrative abilities; this means making a few calls-discussing your problem w/the right person & following up w/Certified letters restating what occurred in the previous conversaiton. This shows that you were acting in good faith-Courts like this. Make sure your letters are dated & start out: As per our phone conversation 01/25/01 you were made aware of....yada yada yada. You will find that things will come out ok in the end; dont get discouraged & if needed consult an atty who will work off a retainer. Good Luck [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited February 07, 2001).]

quote: Originally posted by Jeff Rimmer: Just curious, what exactly is he running in his Z? B] Yea, I was curious as to his set up as well; it hooks so saaaweeeetly. The back ground music just adds to the suspense-almost made me feel like I was there. Darius, what cyl.heads, cam, trans, supercharger, tires & rear gears did you choose-the world awaits for your answer.