Kevin Shasteen

Zya: Here's my take on your set up. If I understand correctly this is what you've chosen to go with. 70/240z, 355 10.5:1, 700r4/200r4 trans, 750 Holley, 286Magnum cam w/1.5:1 rockers, 291 Camel Hump Heads 64cc, 3.545 rear gears. For starters, My book "Chevy V8 Interchange Manual" indicates that the 291 came w/larger valves & the smaller 1.94/1.50 valves-so make sure of their size & dont just take someone's word for it. Hotrod magazine did a test of the 286cam & chose the 355sbc w/iron heads(barely above stock) with 1.94/150 heads yielding 8.8:1 & an Edelbrock Performer manifold. This test yielded peak power/torque at: 341 hp @5000 rpm's & 394ft.lbs. @ 3500rpm's. Hotrod, in another magaizine, did a test on the 280Magnum cam; the difference in spec's on your cam are as follows: 280H Duration @ .050/234, lift=480/480, 110LDA 286H Duration @ .050/236, lift=490/490, 110LDA The 280H's performance was on a 355 9.7:1 Comp.Ratio, 750 Holley, Edelbrock Performer RPM (High Rise Dual Plane) Intake w/AFR Alluminum Cyl.Heads running 2.02/1.50 valves. Ignition was a MSD Billet Distributor triggered by a MSD-6AL box. This set up's performance yielded: RPM's..Torque/HP 2500...332..160 2700...343..180 2900...350..195 3100...367..219 3300...382..240 3500...395..260 3700...397..280 3900...399..297 4100...396..308 4300...403..330 (Maximum Torque) 4500...400..340 4700...400..360 4900...400..376 5100...397..380 5300...388..390 5500...380..400 5700...375..404 (Maximum HP) 5900...357..397 6100...348..400 *The figures are Flywheel power/not Rear wheel power: Factor in 15/20% loss to obtain theoretical Rear Wheel power. **This should yield you an ET=11.8 @ 114mph; not including possible wheel spin, tires & gearing your running nor how well you can trip the lights at the track. I figured your car weighed 2900lbs w/you & a full tank of gas. This engine idled @850 w/12.5HG inches of vacuum while the previous engine made only 10.5HG of vacuum at 750rpms & only 13HG inches of vacuum at 1000rpm's. I think the alluminum cyl.heads better indicates what your engine will do since it has a higher comp.ratio & larger valves. The alluminum will dissipate heat quicker than your iron cyl.heads. Having said all that: I hope this isnt your daily driver. If you're running A/C & Power Brakes you may want to consider a Vacuum Assist Canister. Or, you may want to consider another cam w/a wider LDA. Your current LDA of 110 is great for a lopey/choppy idle but low rpm vacuum suffers considerably on a street engine. Comp Cam's has a line of cams for Nitrous engines. You may not be running Nitrous but one of those profiles is close to yours & has a wider LDA of 113-much better idle quality for a daily street driven car. Two profiles are relatively close to your 280H. NX262H-13 Duration @ .050 218/230, Lift=462/480, 113LDA NX268H-13 Duration @ .050 224/236, Lift=477/490, 113LDA Hope this helps. [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited February 07, 2001).]

I must admit that I am surprised the 600 CFM beat both the Holley 800 and Q-Jet 750 for top MPH which is usually a great judge of top end horsepower.!! [/b] Well, keep in mind this was a, healthy, but moderate bone stock 396/325hp w/3.31 gears. They replaced its manifold but didnt replace its camshaft. If it had a camshaft to match the higher cfm carb & intake: its 1/4 mile times probably would've been better w/750 or 800cfm carb. That 396 @ 5500rpm's is only capable of a theoretical 536cfm; the purpose of a larger carb is to remove restrictions of atmospheric pressure; which the carb & intake will do; however, the only restriction left was the camshaft. Again; remember its a total pkg & we have to be honest w/ourselves so as not to over carb or over cam our engines-if we do, then we are only hurting our performance: on a street driven car that is.

250rwhp. I'll never forget the look on his face... Too bad you didnt get a picture of "That look on his face." Why do people have to be like that. I dont even care if you're running a souped up Honda or even a Z-Purist who just laid 20K to have his car restored; its your ride-enjoy it w/out being a jerk & belittling others simply because they chose something else: I love humbling arrogant morons: Even still after their humbled-I wont rub it in their face. Let your performance be the talker-keep the trash talking to yourself! I personally dont understand spending 15-20K on a restoration that wont see the short side of an 18.00 second 1/4; to me that's wacky-but more power to them & I'll pat you on the back-congratulate you on your hard work & give you a big thumbs up!! I'm a gear head-if it doesnt leave rubber on the ground-dont want it (That's my choice-not a prerequisite for others to live by). [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited February 07, 2001).]

I hate to tell you this, but, if the other suggestions dont help; you may have to pull the tank & the metal fuel lines and have them boiled; you may need to replace the rubber fuel lines-if applicable. I've had a P/Up that sat for some time before I decided to use it again; the tanks had water in them; I must have added octane boosters & fuel cleaners to the carb for a month before the engine finally quit missing. I went thru multiple tanks of gas & it still would misfire-telling me there were still deposits of moisture in the carb. Try the other suggestions first & if that doesnt work then pull the tanks & metal fuel lines. If it comes to the point where you feel you need to pull the tank to have them boiled...ask a local auto dealership-they have insurance claims all the time where someone vandalized someones car by putting substances in a car's fuel tank that doesnt belong...they can point you in the right direction. The carb may just have reminants of diesel in it....a little diesel will actually clean things; but a whole tank full...good luck.

Fastftiver; Before you make a decision; think about the possibility of getting "One of Those Engines" that dont hold up. Sure, it may even fail w/in the time constraints of the warranty: Great! But, do you really have the time/money for your vehicle to be down & can you put all your other errands on the shelf while you needlessly attempt to fix something that shouldnt have broken in the first place(?) I'm not saying all reman-shops are bad. I've only heard to many bad stories & I am one of those who was not pleased w/reman eng I recieved. I'ld rather find a shop that is performance oriented. In the past I have also used a machine shop (not performance oriented) & have found myself arguine w/the couter man about a perf.mod I wanted (such as 3degree valve job). He was an old timer & thought if the Mfg thought I needed a 3degree valve job then they would have given me one from the factory. I dont have time to justify my needs to someone; even if that someone agrees to give me what I want-what kind of quaulity will the job be given as its performed. I think it pays in the long run to have your work done by someone who understands your needs & is performance oriented. IMHO!

Quote from Glenn-even most hipo motors will run higher V.E. than 85%. Many exceed 100%: This is my take on V.E. The holley book I have goes thru the stages of preping a carb for Nascar; First the carb is tinkered w/straight out of the box till its efficient. Then their tech's tear it down & put each component on a flow bench where each dry passage is optimized; then the metering passasages for fuel are equally scrutinized: 20 hours later they have a carb running 100% V.E. I'm not aware of any of us doing that-how many of us have those resources....our eng's are not running 100% V.E. Granted the components now days are pretty efficient: a good set up may push the 90% area (IMO). Anyway: I hate unresolved issues & this thread has forced me to do some late night reading: I guess this is good when anyone sets out to find the truth it has to be a good thing, right(?). This is what I learned from Two books-one from Rochester & the other from Holley. Holley ran a comparison on 4carbs on a stock 69Chevelle w/325HP 396 (L-35) w/10.25:1 comp ratio, automatic & 3.31 rear gears. The four carbs were: Stock 750 Q-jet, 500cfm Holley 2bbl, 650 Holley 2bbl,800 Holley Dbl Pumper 4bbl & a 600 Holley 4bbl. The only modification was replacing the intak manfld w/Edelbrocks oval port single plane manifold specifically designed for chevy big blocks. Shifting @ 5000 rpms these are the results: 1)Stock Iron Manifold/Stock 750cfm Q-jet 14.58 E.T @ 98.18mph 2)Torquer Mnfld/ Stock 750cfm Q-jet 14.47 E.T. @ 98.38mph 3)Torquer Mnfld/ 500cfm Holley 2bbl 14.59 @ 96.69mph 4)Torquer Mnfld/ 650cfm Holley 2bbl 14.39 E.T. @ 97.71 (quicker ET-Slower mph) 5)Torquer Mnfld/ 800cfm Holley Dbl.Pmpr.4bbl 14.24 E.T. @ 98.88 6)Torquer Mnfld/600cfm Holley 4bbl 14.21 E.T. @ 99.35 (Best ET & Fastest MPH) For a bone stock engine: smaller is better. Obviously this engine couldnt take advantage of the 800cfm's ability to flow. This is what else I found when attempting to understand why a 750 works when its theoretical CFM indicates it shouldnt. My "Rochester" book touches on "More Air-More Power" & claims that atmospheric pressure has more to do on filling the cyl's than does the pressure drop created by a piston's downward motion on the intake stroke. Granted the two go hand-n-hand. But, Rochester goes on to say, "On a small carb its venturi and Throttle-Blade opening actually restrict atmospheric pressure being pushed into the cylinder & peak performance will actually take a nose dive after 5000 rpm's: this is great on a street car not going to see extreme high rpms. If your looking for max power: Think big-Big Intake Mnflds, Big flowing Cyl.Heads, Big Cam as all of these components aid in the removal of restrictions on atmospheric pressure. For max.output it is essential to have the carb as large as possible (consistent w/the required & intended driving range). Using a lot of flow capacity can reduce inlet restrictions & increas V.E. @ WOT (Wide Open Throttle) at high rpm's. What I understood the two above paragraphs to mean is this: A normally aspirated engine will never flow 700cfms, 750cfm's nor 800cfm's; the reason one would use such a large carb is to remove restrictions on atmospheric pressure entering the engine-this allows a denser charge of air to enter. Thus a properly jetted/tuned carb of larger cfm's can be used & be used efficiently for WOT @ Higher Rpm's. Another test quite interesting in this book was a test on Air Filter Houstings & their restrictions on cfm @ WOT. Test done were on a 396. 1)No Air Cleaner....................713cfm 2)Closed Housing & single snorkel...480cfm 3)Closed Housing & snorkel cut off..515cfm 4)Same @ above but w/duel inlets....690cfm 5)Chevy Hi/Po open element..........713cfm 6)14 inch aftermarket open element..675cfm 7)Chevy Truck (Tall Base & Lid).....713cfm 8)Foam Type Lid (Domed flat type)...675cfm *Test Done in 1971 (well before K&N filters) **Holley: Still thinks most racers over carb their engines. ***I've learned that bigger components dont make more HP, but, bigger components remove the restrictions on atmospheric prssr which allows a denser charge into the cyl's & that is what makes horse power. Semantices-Maybe. PS: I'm smarter now (I think thats a good thing) [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited February 06, 2001).]

quote: Originally posted by z ya: The car is not together yet but am curious about what kind of timeslips I might expect. 355 sbc,10.5 comp ratio,rpm air gap manifold, 750 holley vac sec,roller tip rockers 1.5, It will also have an 700r4 or 200r4 with 2000 stall.The ratio will be 3.54 open. Zya, What cylinder heads & how do you know it will make 10.5:1 comp.ratio? Also I'll need to know what tire size you're running & the camshaft's profile. are you going to use; what car & its weight? On the Heads; have they been milled, do you know what CC's their combustion chambers are: on the camshaft-give me lobe lift, duration @ .050 & its lobe separation angle. If I can get that info; if its not too much at this time-we can run some #'s for ya. Before you plunk your money down on an expensive stall cvtr you might post another thread about which converters everyone running auto/trans are using. If the car is a Z; its a light car & may not need a stall cvtr. If I remember some old posts, Myron, got rid of his stall cvtr; Myron...anyone else running auto's wanna jump in here. [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited February 05, 2001).]

Has anyone used one or does anyone know much about their reputation. Pkg came with a decent warranty as well. Your thoughts guys?[/b] I'm not in your area; however, the one time I decided to go w/a reman.eng. from a rebuilder it didnt last more than two years before it started blowing oil out the dipstick....obviously something wicked was a brewing inside the unhappy motor. This was a 1/2ton Ford 302. Never hotrodded-just an old work truck. I had build eng's prior to that & was hesitant about using a rbldr; but wasnt familiar w/Ford & didnt have a lot of time. Even then I dont like anyone messin w/the inside of an engine that I install in a vehicle of mine; if I had to do all over again...I would have taken the time to build it myself & the satisfaction of knowing it was build right w/premium rings/pistons is not something you can put a price on. My engine came w/a warranty also; however, it went bad on me half way thru the second year...well out of the 12/12 warranty. Be leary of any reman.eng. if your purpose going into the deal is to drive said vehicle hard. Just my .02cents worth.

so i'm thinkin it might be the clutch, it might not. David, FYI: Chances are you have multiple prob's w/that trans. A slipping clutch would not cause the trans to kick the shifter out of its gear. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news: you have bad synchro's & a slipping clutch. Good luck in your search for another trans. You're in Dallas...dont forget to scour over the Parts Sections of the Auto Traders; they are always an excellant source for Ford and Camaro/Firebird transmissions.

I have to agree w/those who espouse the 600 & 650's. Most engines are over cam'd & over carb'd. The 750 is for an engine that will run in the high rpm's all day long. For a street engine that rarely see's the other side of 3500rpm's; you dont need the extra cfm's as the larger carb's signal will be diminished by the lower displacement engines. CFM is nothing more than a by product of displacement & volume/velocity. The formula for getting you in the neighborhood for carb's size is: DISPLACEMENT multiplied by RPM'S; once you've got that answer it should be divided by 3456 (i think that's correct) & that is your cfm you should go with. If you'ld like to take that one more step you can multiply your theoretical cfm times .85 and that answer will be your actual cfm. The .85 represents your Volumetric Efficiency for a slightly modidied/to heavily modified street/strip engine. As you can see after running the formula; very few of us actually need a 750cfm carb. As for the advice from an engine builder; if he doesn'nt have a flow bench to prove his statement, then his advice is suspect. I'm not saying he's not a great engine builder; I'm only saying be careful who you listen to & attempt to get advice from more than one source....dont limit yourself. If you want advise on a carb...go to a carb guy, if you want advise on a trans...go to a trans guy. One man's opinion is sometimes just, "Their Opinion" & not founded in actual expertise. AKA: Dont by your clothes from a naked taylor! Remember, building an engine is a Total Pkg & not just a Bragging Rights kind of thing. Hope this helps. [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited February 03, 2001).]

Don, You were inquiring about the R200 in an earlier thread. There is an article about lock up Converters in Popular Hot Rodding this Month. Specifically, the R200/lock up cvtr is what they concentrated on & the car the trans was in is a GN. I had a R200 put in my 70 Olds Cutlass replacing the TH350. It was built by an AAMCO shop in Plano Tx that is Performance Oriented,every tech in there is a gearhead. This shop actually keeps pictures of the musclecars whose trns they've rblt; for their future customers who inquire. As we know, not all Trns shops are performance oriented. The trans works fine except I found that under a hard acceleration, always in 3rd, the trans would spin out....This months issue of Popular Hot Rodding addresses that. In fact, their car actually picked up 2mph simply from using the proper TCvtr. Hoped that helped.

My .02 cents worth, Typical Passenger Car Front Engine/Rear Drive.....56/44 Smaller Passenger Car Like the 280Z, Merc.Benz SL Front Engine/Rear Drive.....51/49 or 52/48 Compact or Mid-size Front Engine/Front Drive.....60/40 or 65/35 True Rear Engine Car (911) Rear Engine/Rear Drive......40/60 MR2,NSX Mid-Engine/Rear Driven......42/58 A front heavy car is suppose to understeer: its front wheels will drift toward the outside of a turn. While a rear heavy car will oversteer: its rear wheels will drift to the outside of a turn. A vehicles ability to oversteer/understeer is a product of the tires slip angles & this is affected by weight distribution, suspension design & tire size. At the moment one reaches "Loss of Adhesion" the centrifigal force takes over & the heavier end will skid/spin toward the outside of the turn.

Any wire w/in the starter/ignition switch which is questionable needs to be rpr'd before a fire under your dash & or carpeting catches fire: all it takes is a battery cable or +12 volt wire to touch against the wrong thing & fire results. That happened to me in a P/Up Truck once & the cause was a bare battery cable that had rubbed on the frame. Most electrical problems are caused from improper grounds. Repair/Replace the questionable wire/cable & after wrapping the rpr w/electrical tape protect it this time w/some kind of covering (plastic flex) of the appropriate size where it wont rub bare again. W/out being there its pretty hard to diagnose; the first place to begin is to rpr any questionable wires. Do that then report back w/the progress.

Is this the factory 6 or a V8? Only does it after its warmed up & after you push it to 2k rpm's? Does it after a cold start, warm start?

I finally got a chance to catch up on my reading for the last few weeks of HybridZ & noticed a few threads @ camshafts: Hydraulic -vs- Mechanical roller. I have a book that lists mosts Tech lines & thought it would be helpful. CAMS 1)Cam Motion.....504.926.6110 2)Chet Herbert Cams...714.7501211 3)Comp Cams......800.999.0853 or 901.795.2400 4)Crane Cams.....904.258.6174 5)Crower Cams....619.422.1191 6)Custom Speed(Harlons Sharp)..440.238.3260 7)Edelbrock Corp...800.416.8628 8)Engle Cams.....310.450.0806 9)Erson/Mr Gasket...775.882.1622 10)Ferrea Racing.888.733.2505 or 954.733.2505 11)Isky Racing Cams..323.770.0930 12)Lunati........901.365.0950 13)Manly.........732.905.3366 14)Miloden.......818.407.1211 15)Pete Jackson Gear Drives..323.849.2622 16)Powerhouse Products...800.USA-RACE 17)Schneider Racing Cams...619.297.0227 18)Ultradyne Racing Cams...601.349.4447 19)Wolverine/Blue Racer...800.248.0134 Valves,Gears,Push Rods, Timing Belts & Bolts 1)ARP (Bolts & Stuff)......805.278.7223 2)Clevite 77...............313.663.6400 3)Cloyes Gear Products.....501.963.2105 4)Eastwood Co.(Shop Tools).610.640.1450 5)Eric Thompsn Push Rods...760.742.1113 6)Fel-Pro..................708.674.7700 7)Fluidampr................716.895.8000 8)Jesel.(Timing Gears ect).732.901.1800 9)K-Motion Valve Springs...800.428.7891 10)Mr Gasket...............775.882.4622 11)Pete Jackson Gear Drives323.849.2622 12)SI Valves...............805.582.0085 Pistons/Rings 1)Federal Mogul............248.354.9445 2)JE Pistons...............714.898.9763 3)Speed Pro/Sealed Pwr.....616.724.5011 4)Total Seal Gaples Rings..602.678.4977 5)Weisco Pistons...........800.321.1364 Ignition Systems 1)Mallory Ignition.........702.882.6600 2)MSD Ignitions............915.857.5200 3)Jacobs Electronic........800.627.8800 Headers/Exhaust 1)Hooker...................909.983.5871 2)Hedman Mfg...............310.839.7581 3)Flowmaster...............800.544.4761 Auto Performance:By Mfg's Name 1)Chevy Perf..See Local Dealer Parts Dept 2)Ford Motorsports/SVO.....810.468.1356 3)Ford Perf.Solutions......714.773.9027 4)Mopar Perf...............248.853.7290 Cylinder Heads/Fuel/Induction 1)Brodix Cyl.Heads.........501.394.1075 2)Barry Grant Fuel Sys's...706.864.8544 4)Edelbrock................800.416.8628 5)Fuel Curve Engineering...704.894.3511 6)Holley Carb.Div..........313.497.4000 7)the Nitrous Works........706.864.7009 8)Trick Flow...............216.630.1555 9)TWM Inductions...........805.967.9478 10)Weiand Auto Ind.........901.396.5782 Transmissions/Clutches 1)B&M Auto.................818.882.6422 2)Centerforce Clutch.......714.898.4477 3)Trans-Dapt...............310.921.0404 Performance Warehouses & Perf.Shops 1)Brzezinski Racing Prod...414.246.8577 2)California Dis.Wrhouse...310.423.4346 3)the Carburetor Shop......909.947.9722 4)G&L Coatings.............619.743.0224 5)H/O Racing...............888.703.4477 6)K&N Engineering..........909.684.9762 7)Moroso...................203.453.6571 8)Norwack & Co.............714.282.7996 9)Perf.Auto.Wrhouse (PAW)..818.998.6000 10)RHS Perf.Eng's..........901.794.2830 11)Schaver Specialty.......310.370.6941 12)SD Performance..........714.997.3777 13)Summers Bro's Inc.......714.986.2041 14)Summit Racing...........216.630.0200 15)T&D Machine.............775.884.2292 16)Tilton Engineering......805.688.2353 17)VHT.....................602.991.8002 18)Warrior Racing Prod.....734.728.8600 19)Westech Perf.Group......909.685.4767 Personal Name Racing Shops 1)Bennet Racing..................205.486.5520 2)Bill Mitchl Hardcore Racing....516.737.0372 3)Childs & Albert................805.295.1900 4)Cottrell Racing Eng's..........612.448.5330 5)Dick Landy Ind.................818.341.4143 6)Dutweiler Engineering..........805.659.3648 7)Hughes Engines.................309.745.9558 8)Jim Butler Racing..............931.762.4596 9)Joe Sherman Racing Eng's.......714.542.0515 10)Klein Engines.................602.967.5990 11)McFarland Inc.................213.533.6100 12)Nally/Moody Racing............404.368.0873 13)Lingenfelter Perf.Eng's.......219.724.2552 Sorry the list is so incomplete & this is all I could come up with; HEY!!! If theses guys cant help you then you cant be helped! Remember, berfore you call (so as not to waste their time: Yes, you are the customer yet they cant help you if you dont know what it is you want) make sure you have an idea of a few things: 1) Weight of Car 2) Eng/Trans Compbo 3) HP/Torque Expectations 4) Rear Gears & Tires 5) Racing or Street/Strip This is what I do on a Sick Day w/the Flu Hope This Helps [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited January 30, 2001).]