Kevin Shasteen

Jason, Saw your Camaro the first time you posted; those are my favorite year/style Camaro's. Yours looks like its coming along fine. About the 12 sec.Z; you can do that easily-dont even need a Heavy Hitter to do the 12's in a V8Z. When you make the swap...if you want it to be a daily driver you should opt fot the 700r4 trans...even your Camaro could benefit from a race prep'd 700/with the lower first gear! About the Z you've been looking at...it looks straight; still tho-after you've gotten hard on the Z a dozen or so times-the Z's "Structural Integrity" will have been compromised & that Sunroof will most likely begin leaking......Puddles of water in the floor; or worse...water on your nice Racing Buckets or.....water leaking onto your dash & shorting out your electrical components/NO FUN! Sounds like you are quite resourceful & know what you are doing mechanically. However, the Z doesnt fall in to the normal Category of Cars when it comes to "RUST" The Z has a propensity for HIDING its rust better than your average car. As far as what to look for in a Z; you may want to purchase: "How To Restore Your Datsun Z-Car" by Wick Humble The book was published by Fisher Books & 1990 Copywrite. Any book store should be able to order it for you....very insightful book. "I Still dont like the Sunroof on that car you are looking at: "Structural Integrity is already comprimised!" Good luck & have fun! Kevin (Still an Inliner)

quote: Originally posted by zfan: Kim Barr racing ran specials awhile back.. Mike Mike, You used Kim Barr before....I used him on my Cutlass 350; engine sounds great; they definately know what they are doing & his shop gets a lot of dirt trackers not to mention busniss from the 1/4 mile trackers also. Kevin (Still an Inliner)

I think they just have a weak link & the Mfg's know it. They are not going to do anything about it. Why should they when they can hit you up for a replacement trans or the dealers can hit you up for a rebuild? It was like GM in the early 80's w/their 440t4, 200's & 700's; remember those units-nothing but milk-toast. At lest GM finally got past those bad years & now they are pretty reliable trans. Only time will tell if the units well get stronger. Kevin (Sitll an Inliner)

Why dont you just run stacks sticking straight thru the roof? Sorry, I'm still an Inliner; have to let someone else answer. Kevin (Still an Inliner)

Rick, IMHO....You're spending a Boat Load of cash to build a Rock Solid BigSBC; why would you consider skimping on the transmission? You're gonna want that 6th gear when you get on the Hwy. Besides; the fact ramains-you are not gonna drive that car easy once its in the car & that snotty nosed Honda goes Ziiiingy by you with all his Sears Robuck Body Attachments. How humilitating would it be when you attempt to catch the Honda guy just to hear a loud pop/grinding noise as your weaker 5spd imploads? There's no way anyone can spend the money you're gonna spend for that Huge Pavement Poinding, Asphalt Rip/Snortin Monster you're building and keep your foot out of it; AINT NO WAY! You got it & you're gonna use it! Another factor to think about; what if you use the weaker trans & when the trans goes out on ya from normal upshifting; what possible damage will that do to your engine if it causes you to excessively over-rev it; better incorporate a rev-limiter of some sort also. IMO: If I had the cash to build a BigSBC like you're building; I would want a rock solid transmission to go along w/it & I'ld do/spend every bit as much on it as I would on the engine; proportionately speaking of course. I know it costs more up front-but in the long run it will save. And, shifting into 6th gear & watching the RPM's fall is gonna mean less wear-n-tear on your engine at hwy cruising to boot! Stop a minute; think about all the "THOUSANDS" of additional rpms your engine will be rev'g if you chose to go w/a 5spd instead of the 6spd. As you're thinking about those additional "THOUSANDS" of rpms; remember how much you're spending on building that BigSBC. How much sooner would you like to have to build another one simply because you wore the first one out too quickly from choosing a 5spd instead of a 6spd? Okay; you brought up torque. Think about this. Figure the Driveshaft Torque w/trans in third gear. (Multiply 3rd Gear Ratio x Torque). 3rd gear is somewhere around the 1.35:1 area. With the 427 on a Dyno you're around 530ft.lbs peak torque depending on camshaft that's somewhere around 4500/5000rpm's in 3rd gear you're putting out around 675ft.lbs of torque....that's a lot of torque! All I can say is "POP" time to buy another trans! This is my theory on the 3rd gear problem in a 5spd. Rick, Say you're racing (At the 1/4 mile track) & you run your RPM's upto the 5500 range; when you shift into the next gear, say 3rd....you're RPM's will drop to about 4500 (THAT'S YOUR AREA OF PEAK TORQUE-530ft.lbs for your 427SBC) so when the Camaro's & Stangs shift into the next gear at peak torque; They're are shifting into PEAK TORQUE & Snapping the Driveline; you better have a trans that will keep up w/you! Especially if you're running a BigSBC! Just some things I'ld be thinking about if I had the cash/optioins & sorry if I rambled-but it's raining here again (no garage) & Rick had a good question; couldn't wait to jump on it! Kevin (Still an Inliner) [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited March 03, 2001).]

That's what I like about living just outside the Dallas/Ft.Worth area. I'm in a small town...closest real town is about 7500people. There are at least two shops I know of that would give an inspection sticker (Ours go on the windshield) w/out looking under the hood. One shop I found by accident....I was waiting outside his garage door to give him my Insurance & the ignition key to test the lights/horn exc; He walks out w/an inspection sticker & the Ticket all filled out. Tells me to sign it & that'll be $15 bucks; slaps the sticker on my windshield...& says-have a nice day! I've been to his shop now everytime I want an inspection sticker for anything. Dallas/Ft.worth does the tail pipe test but only on cars I believe after 1978; but hey, who cares when I live in a town where "Cooter-from Dukes of Hazards" runs the local auto shop! Kevin (Still an Inliner)

quote: Originally posted by Racin_Jason: ...oh and it has a sunroof that he says has never leaked....Personally im not too worried about the interior looks. Ive fixed up worse before.. Any and all comments are welcome and requested. I'll keep ya posted! Jason Jason, Remember, when buying a car, regardless of its current condition: the objective is not "To Be Worried as I Can Fix it Later" but to be "AWARE OF" any short comings so that you can factor said short comings into the purchace price of the car. I'ld personally be leary of that sunroof. It may not be leaking now; but after you've been hard on it for a while; the body stretches/warps & your new $3000 paint/body job begins rusting....again! Remember the buying formula; Be honest w/yourself when rating each section of the car's systems. If you want that car & want it w/out the current drivetrain; Be honest-Dont go over anything more than maybe-Double Salvage Yard Pricing.....there's a reason Salvage Yards make money: They never overpay for a car! Even if the car is solid & repairable; You, I mean "YOU" are going to be doing the labor & "YOUR WALLET" will be paying for the proper rebuild! Dont think this is the only V8Z out there; write down a list of all the things you'ld change on the car currently the way it sits. Then put a reallistic $$ dollar price on each change...add up the dollars & I think you're gonna be surprised how much it comes too. You may consider just buying a Z in original form (Sorry Purist-Yea/another one bites the dust); then make the changes as you go-at least that way you dont have to worry about problematic surprises popping up or previous primer having covered up possible cancer/rust spots. If you start w/a clean slate you may be happier because "YOU" have been the only one making changes to the car thus far. If he's willing to part the car out/maybe you can use it as a parts car/test mule(?)! But dont overpay; Never, Never, Never, Never OVERPAY!!!! Believe me, if you buy a money pit; Which I have done In the Past/you will regret it; Big Time Regret! Not trying to trash the car; just trying to head you off before any possible mistakes are made; I think all of here would agree-We want you as a happy member & not a Frustrated/Flat Broke Member. FYI-Just my .02c's worth! Kevin (Still an Inliner)

quote: Originally posted by pparaska: I've taken 10 years to build this car (still not done) so these money hits don't all come at once . Think of it as amortizing the project cost over the length of a short mortgage period . Pete, I need a loan; will you front me the money for my seats....aw-heck; if you're gonna give me a loan...make it for the price of my conversion. I promise it wont take me 10 years to repay! Kevin "Still an Inliner"

quote: Originally posted by BLKMGK: or do you think that it's just tight in the hole (snicker)? Did you have to force it in? Okay, I've got to stop asking questions before I fall out of my chair but you get the idea. If it's at the top around the hole maybe some penetrating lube? BLKMGK, I cant stop laughing! Everytime I read your questions; busting out laughing; now-wiping the tears from my eyes!!! Seriously tho. I had an Olds 455 once where its distributor drive gear was "Stuck in the Hole" (Here we go again with the inuendo). What I did, & I wasnt concerned w/braking the distributor as I wanted it out: I found two flat pieces of iron that fit on the left/right side of the distributor & just pried upward against the intake manifold "while a friend would wiggle the top" (here we go again) of the distributor. "Even w/both of us pulling & shaking" (good grief) it still took a better part of an hour before the distributor slipped out. When the distributor did come out: THERE WAS NOTHING WRONG W/ANY PART OF IT! The gears were just worn & didnt want to release! Weirdest thing! Hope that helps; good luck "in pulling it out!" "Lather that sucker w/penetrating Oil (I mean Lube...I mean Grease). Man, I dont smoke & even I need a cigarette after reading/adding to this thread! Kevin

quote: Originally posted by tjc74: [b...I'm having trouble fitting in at other forums, maybe I will have better luck here.... [/b] Ahhhh, Another lost sheep has found their way home! As Johnny Rebel comes limping in from doing battle! Where is Terry; we need him to say something poetic! Tom; you'll definately fit in here at HybridZ; everytime I here another member say they've felt out of snync...I think of that Animated Christmas special where the Lost Toys end up at: & the elf that wants to be a Dentist. Anyway-seems like we are the lost toys! Welcome Home indeed Tom! (Little Tear from corner of eye builds) Kevin "Still an Inliner"

Yea Jason; Be slow to buy. Glad you took the ride...you've one better than me as I've still to ride in a V8Z (I'm jealous). Now, after saying that: Keep in mind I've had a couple projects in the past whereby my Euphoric feeling got me in trouble & I'm sure most everyone here has also gotten in to trouble buying a rust-bucket & not knowing it till its too late. If you buy on "Feelings"...your feelings will always get you in trouble. I mentioned it on another thread about my newly Self-Acclaimed system of buying cars that has, since contribed, kept me out of trouble. For posterity's sake I'll describe it again. When you go to buy a car; List the different systems of a car just like an auto-manual would: 1) Body 2) Engine 3) Transmission 4) Fuel/Cooling 5) Electrical 6) Drive Axle/Differential 7) A/C 8) Tires Once you've had a chance to look the vehicle over; rate each system on a scale from 1-10. After rating them....add your total up & divide the total by the amount of categories you've listed. Say you have a total of 56. That could mean the car is 58% complete; or if you divide the number of categories "8" into your total "56" you'ld get a "7". Meaning on a scale from 1-10 your car rated a "7". That should help you in determining what the car needs & in pricing the car.....or deter you from a Money Pit(?)! Glad you got the joy of riding in a V8Z; sounds like you had fun....I'm still waiting for my fateful day in a V8Z! Kevin (Still an Inliner)

Hey Dave-that was quite an informational site you refer'd to. RickB is running a mild 350 w/100 hp Nitrous Kit. He's made it in the low 12's in the 1/4. Kind of surprised he hasnt chimed in here. He has his own site; email him your question & let him know you're a HybridZ Brother...Sempa-Fi!. Comp Cams has 5 different cams made just for a nitrous set up. The kits range from a near stock engine, street engine, street machine, Street/Strip & finally a 671 Blower Set up Kit. Kevin,

RatedR, Anytime you have a cam that allows your engine to idle below 700rpm; it is more a street cam than a strip cam. You will feel a difference indeed & it will still be faster than most cars you go up against & be extremely streetable; very versitile. Even w/a mild V8-there are a few guys here running Nitrous kits; getting pretty close to the 11's...not to shabby! It just depends on what you want & what you plan on doing w/it once you've got it! Some guys here are running rear gears in the 3.545, 3.7 & 3.9 gears-which are stock gears found in different year Z's. Tire Diameter also plays a role in performance. Tire sizes I've noticed in this forum range from 205/55/14 (22.83"Diameter) 275/60/15 (27.9"Diameter). All things to think of. I believe Mike put it more bluntly...think long & hard about what you want...ask a lot of questions & after you've got your into: Make a decision & dont look back! Questions you need to ask when choosing a set up are: 1)What will my Basic Rpm Range be? 2)What Vehicle Weight will I be going with? 3)Which Transmission will I be using? 4)What will my overall gear range be (Trans/Diff.Gears/Tire Diameter) Once you have nailed those questions down-you will be on your way to a Street/SleeperZ. Hope that helped! (I lerve to Bench Racing) Kevin,

Whatever trans you go with, make sure its an overdrive. If you plan on driving it on the street at all.....you will want that 5th and/or 6th gear overdrive. About the engine's performance; always remember, when someone talks about HP/Torque numbers.....ask them was that Flywheel power (AKA:Engine on a Dyno?) or was the engine tested in the car (Power Numbers retrieved from the Rear Wheels). Typically, you will lose about 15% power from flywheel to the drivewheels. So if someone spouts 400 Flywheel Hp....you can expect about 340 Rear Wheel HP. Car Craft did a Cam Comparison on 4 Comp Cams using the same engine-the only thing changed was the cam. These test were done w/engine on a Dyno. The engine consisted of a 355 SBC (350 bored .030), Comp.Ratio @ 9.7:1, using AFR Alluminum Heads 2.01/1.60 valves w/190cc Intake Runners, using Edelbrocks Performer RPM (High Rise Dual Plane) intake manifold, 750 Double Pumper & an MSD Distributor w/an MSD-6AL Box. The four cams were Two Energy Grinds & Two Magnum Grinds....all w/the same 110 Degree Lobe Separation Angle (Overlap). 1)252 Cam .432 lift on Int/Exh w/206 Duration @ .050 2)268 Cam .460 lift on Int/Exh w/218 Duration @ .050 3)280 Cam .486 lift on Int/Exh w/230 Duration @ .050 4)292 Cam .507 lift on Int/Exh w/244 Duration @ .050 The First cam, the 252, is ideal for 300-350ci engines. It made 348hp @ 5000rpm & 398ft.lbs @ 3900rpm. It made over 350fr.lbs from 2600-5100rpm's. Idles at 600rpms & made 17-18 inches of HG Vacuum. The Second cam, the 268, works well w/Small & Big Blocks. It produced, in the SBC, 380 HP @ 5400rpms & 401ft.lbs @ 4100rpms. It made at least 400ft.lbs between 3700-4300rpms. Produces a slight lope & idles at 800rpm, where it makes 16 inches of HG Vacuum-more than enough to run factory dependent vacuum accessories: Computer Engines will need a Custom Chip. The Third cam, the 280, is intended for Bigger/Badder Street/Strip Engines. Its HP peaked twice at 405 HP @ 4300rpm & 5700rpm making 404ft.lbs @ 4300rpm. It made over 400ft.lbs between 4200-4800rpm. This cam idled a noticeably choppy idle @ 850rpm and produced only 12.5 inches of HG Vacuum. A vacuum canister is required to run factory accessories. The Fourth cam, the 292, begins to trade torqhe for HP (a street engine needs torque more than it needs HP). It made 430 HP @ 6700rpm & 399ft.lbs @ 4400 & 4500rpm. (both the 268 & 280's peak torque were higher). It made more than 400 HP between 5500-6800rpm while producing more than 1hp/ci between 4700-7000rpm. Its rough choppy idle wavered between 850/900rpm & only produced 8-9inches of HG Vacuum. According to this test-they claim a Vicotr Jr. Intake would've produced another 20hp to the top-end. Hope this gives you some idea of power thru cam specs. Also remember, Most of Comp.Cams are ground w/110 Lobe Displacement Angles; this produces a quicker revving engine while a slightly wider LDA such as 112 or 113 will be more streetable w/the same Lift/Duration yet give a broader power band; the idle charachteristics will be "More Streetable". Good luck & have fun. Kevin PS: I almost forgot; all four of these cams were their Flat Tappet Hydraulic grinds. A roller cam can hanlde a slightly higher lift w/out effecting idle yet puts more strain on the valvetrain...but it frees up friction which means free hp! [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited March 02, 2001).]

RatedR, The alluminum heads, if in your budget, will run cooler, allow you to go nearer the 10.0:1 comp ratio w/out detonation; which we all need since our under hood temp's seam to tend to run on the hotter side w/out the proper mods. I havent done the swap yet so the upgrade tips on the body/brakes will have to come from the other guys; but I can help w/some engine suggestions. You already said you wanted this Z to be a street Z; does that mean you want a Streetable Z w/out a lopey idle, a Streetable Z w/a lopey idle or a Streetable Z w/a lopey idle that is "Barely Streetable" (IMO-Barely Streetable on the street would be a pain). Do you want a hydraulic-Flat Tappet/Roller, Mechanical Roller? Does your Z have an automatic/standard trans; do you also have A/C? Just some things to think about. Kevin,

I too had the same problem; had to make the switch before it came up. I'm curious, Noszcar, what'd the Camaro driver think after being spanked by a Jap car? Pretty Sweet video.....now when is my Rich Uncle gonna die so I can get all his riches and begin my Alluminum V8 swap...oh yea, I dont have a rich uncle(?)! Kevin

Boy, there's a loaded question. All depends on your current set up; what changes (Besides the V8) you plan on making & what your intensions are for the car after its completed....Completed is a relative term. I havent eaten lunch yet & its @ 4pm here; I'm gonna let someone else answer the rest of that question & I'll be back later tonight. Kevin

Regarding the factory clutch set up; My brother's Mitsubishi 3000 Vr4 TT had his clutch go out on him (same Trans-different bell housing). The dealer told him, Yea, you can upgrade it but we cant do that here. They sent him to a local shop here in Dallas that specialized in that model; they turned/lightened his flywheel. They also told my brother no more feathering of the clutch that it is made for harsh engagement w/out addt'l wear-n-tear....sounds like the few xtra bucks would be worth it if it takes the abuse w/out failure! After saying that; I do believe my brother went w/an after market heavier duty clutch. I dont remember which one but he said he loves the set up now! (Guess I'll have to find out which set up he went with). Kevin [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited February 28, 2001).]

Not me, sounds interesting tho; have to get ideas from some others a little more on top of the ECU/ECM stuff. Kevin

I like those seats; I took note of them the first time I looked at your site. Every time someone on HybridZ mentions them it reminds me of how aged my "Off White" bucket seats are...barely cracked but extremely delicate. I'ld definately prefer to use some current/90's tech. seat which should be more comfortable than the Z's seat. The Z's seats were ahead of their times & are still comfortable...just not as refined as the current stuff. I've never really looked at Miata's before; do they only make black interiors or are they like all other sports cars & pretty much make the other general colors as well? Kevin

Sounds like you paid less than I did from Courtesy Nissan. I agree, if you've never done the suspension/steering upgrade before-its well worth the money. Anyone w/any mechanical ability can do the upgrade once they know how & w/the correct tools. And yes, it definately needs a little editing..still well worth it for anyone not familiar w/the Z's suspension. Kevin

Jerimio, Now is the time to shoot that second letter off. If you havent mailed the first letter then go ahead & type the second letter at the same time you're doing the first letter. That way, when it is time to send the second letter; all you have to do is drop it in the mail. Again, I would insist on mailing both letters Return Receipt Requested as only mailing it Registered.....DOES NOT CREATE A RECORD AS TO WHEN SAID LETTERS WERE RECEIVED! If the upper management of that dealer is less than credible...They Know This & Wont Respond! When typing the second letter-use the same format as the first letter. The only change will be the body of the letter. In the second letter advise the dealer you have not heard from them & this time "TELL THEM" what your intentions are if you do not hear from them. This is what you can say: (1st Paragraph) This letter is a reminder that I still have not heard from your carrier regarding my initial letter dated XXX(date of 1st letter) as a copy is attached for your review. (2nd Paragraph) As I hope is obvious, by now you should be most aware that I am formally making my complaint known against XXX(Name of Dealer) for damaging my car. (3rd Paragraph) It is obvious XXX(Name of Dealer) doesnt hold their employees responsible for damaging XXX(Name of Dealer's) customer's property. I hereby respectfully demand you forward this letter to the carrier that handles your Garagekeepers insurance for a proper & unbias investigation. If I do not hear from your carrier I will be forced to file suit in small claims court where I will demand "Trial by Jury" & the outcome will not favor the public relations of XXX(Name of Dealer). Further, it would be ashame that a simple auto claim now has to be looked upon as a Legal Defense claim; when it could've been avoided in the very beginning. You have 2 days upon receiving this letter before I take action. I look forward to the prudent and reasonable resolution of this matter. Sincerely, XXX XXXXX (Its kind of wordy-try to get the whole thing on to one page) Jerimio remember; if the dealer doesnt respond by forwarding said letter to their carrier....(Your Decision) you need to file suit in small claims court. Your objective isnt to win (Of course we want to win) but your objective is too 'now' cost the dealer Time/Money & by forcing his employee's to show up for trial....you are seriously causing a back log at the dealer as their service line is backing up & the dealer has to pay the mechanic even while the mech is not at work but at trial! At court; you get to play Perry Mason; if you argue in court by yourself-before showing up...think of all the questions you'ld like to ask the Mechanic; Remember-It doesnt matter how/why the crank broke; all that matters is that it broke at the dealers shop. This is where you get to put the mechanic under a microscope & needle him w/the obvious "Are you a licensed Tech, What are the Licenses You hold, Did you pry on the hub" Did you use excessive force" "Does the manual mention braking the crank or bending the Timing Cover while prying". When questioning the General Manager-Go Overkill W/The Care Custody Control & get the General Manager and the Service Writer to admit they willingly, knowingly & voluntatingly accepted Care Custody Control of you vehicle. When you are being questioned always look at the jury in the when speaking....sounds like fun! Hope you get action from the dealer. Kevin, [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited February 28, 2001).]

I'm not up on the turbo engines; but I agree about using a standard 10W - 30 oil for break in & change it often. Once the engine is broken in you can upgrade to a synthetic. The best synthetic I've found (My Z is a non-turbo z) was Mobil 1. When I first bought my Z I tried all three different 10W - 30 brands....the car felt a little sluggish; mind you I already gave it a full tune up & new belts, air filter. Then I switched to a synthetic brand; 1st I used Castrol, the Green Quaker brand & the Yellow brand.....they all still seemed a little better but the engine still seemed a little sluggish (It had 155,000 miles on it). Finally on the next oil change I coughed up the few extra bucks for Synth.Mobil 1 10W-30. My prob's were solved; the engine felt like it set back the odometer 50,000 miles. Never used any of the Dura Lubes, Slick 50 type additives. Just use the Mobil1 & I'm a believer in its "Slickerability" & yes Slickerability is a technical term! For additional advice you might try posting this same question on the Turbo/Supercharger forum. Kevin

Joe, What better place to "Soup" up parts of your car than the Kitchen? Tell your wife as per the JTR manual: The Black - white wire with the protective sleeve is connected to the ballast resistor, and the Green - white wire is connected to the other side of the ballast resistor while the "OTHER" Black - white wire "W/OUT" the protective sleeve is connected to the positive (+) side of the ignition coil. JTR manual doesnt mention a "Green -Black stripe wire....I'm sure its the same as the "Green - white wire". JTR manual says if your ignition/tach doesnt work then just switch the wires around & that is usually all that's needed to get the tach working. It does have one other reference. It says the Sensing wire on the 240Z is a whire wire that does a loop on the back of the tachometer; comes from the ballast resistor & goes to the positive (+) side of the ignition coil. Sorry-that is all it says. I have a 78 280Z so mine will be a little different. Maybe someone w/a 240Z can respond & confirm the info I gave. Hope that helps keep you out of the Doghouse! Kevin [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited February 27, 2001).]

quote: Originally posted by spotfitz: I really want to start on a V8 Zcar RIGHT NOW! Anyone in D/FW area want to give me a ride in their HybridZ? Congrat's on your progress. Wish I had a V8 in mine now...I'ld give you a ride as I make it to Dallas once in awhile. I believe RickB & DavyZ are in the Dallas area.....Hey, they trade rides for Ice Cream Sundays (Just kidding Rick David). Kevin