Kevin Shasteen

Yea, welcome Chris. That's also what I like about this site. Someone can pose a question & if the answer is not already proven or engrained in stone-you never know where the thread will end up. We've all got our bulls-eyes on; load your bow & start firing away. Kevin,

Mike, I dont know how John Scott has his set up; however, the automatic shift into O-drive has been a solved issue on the 700's for some time. Check your B&M catalogue if you have one-they sell a valve, I believe, this goes in the valve body. That valve will more or less let you shift manually; & when not shifting manually still maintain the auto shift into o-drive. Any trans shop worth their salt should be aware of the 700's shifting prowress & be able to eliminate/solve that problem for you. If you absolutely have to have the trans in now & cant wait; the valve goes into the valve body-so get the trans in & a shop or compitent tech can make the changes later. Hope this helps; if it doesnt-Then, Never Mind. Kevin,

FYI, Hotrod had an article about the 4degrees advanced, straight up, 4degrees retarded issue testing a Crane valvetrain in a slightly modified but healthy SBC (Yea, I know its a Chevy) but their answers are still valid from their tests. First of all, Hotrod stated-and Crane is one of them, that most Aftermarket Cam Mfg's grind their Profile w/the intake CenterLine 2degrees advanced...so installing the Cam Straight Up ("0" degrees) will net you 2degrees forward to begin with. The cam tested was .480/.490 Lift, Advertised Duration 284/292 while Duration @ .050 was 222/230 w/a 110degree LDA. The test showed that: 4 Degrees Advanced: 1)Peak Torque max'd only 250rpm's earlier than usual at 4000rpm's. 2)Peak HP was reached exactly the same RPM as installing said cam 4degrees retarded yet yielded 6hp less 3)Peak HP reached 250rpm's sooner than installing cam straight up yet yielded 5hp less. Hotrod said in their conclusions that the gains in High RPM from installing the cam 4degrees retarded out weighed the minor loss in bottom end & midrange as the peak power only begins falling after reaching the 5000rpm range; to them this is a minimal loss. I'ld think the differences were minimal as long as you were in a 3600-3800lbs car. Put those results in a lighter car-You'ld probably want to install an aftermarket cam straight up & if it was a race only car-install it retarded & get the gains in the long run. I guess to know, or even have an idea, of how your cam will respond; you'ld have to know exactly when the intake opens & exhaust closes-this means degreeing your cam. As interesting as their results were; they also gave their "DISCLAIMER" in final thought: Does this mean all cams will act this way(?). The only true test is the 1/4 mile track. Kevin, [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited February 19, 2001).]

The ZX rear is beefier than the 240z's rear & will handle more torque as a result prior to grenading. As fore the Tach; JTR says to use a 280"Z" not 280"ZX" tach in the earlier 240's. But grab the old instruments if you want to hassle w/pulling them & barter w/them later. If you are a barterer; then grab as much off the 280 as you can if it doesnt effect the price of the sale deal you've already struck w/the salvage yard. Items to grab would be like interior skins, tail light lens assemblies, front turn signal assemblies, A/C hardware. Anything you can later barter w/is always money in the bank; or if you're a barter...I should say money under the matress. Kevin,

Congrat's, fired up on the first attempt-that's rare when dealing w/so much wiring repair at one time. Gotta feel good; you'll be sleeping better tonight. No more worries (yea right!). Kevin,

quote: Originally posted by BLKMGK: they WILL be well lubed though, my Mustang has some urethane and the squeeks are terrible! Blkmgk, Dont only lube the bushings but also lube the spindles as much as you possibly can & the spindles still slide in w/out back pressure pushing them out...(Oh, Man; almost sounds like I'm talking about something else-HOTFLASH). But you understand what I'm getting at. Kevin,

quote: Originally posted by lonehdrider: Now check out these aerodynamic babies, guarantee this would be different from everyone else: , Lone Lone, You are too funny. What are you building w/those...a Family Queen Truckster? Yea, we could use those. They'ld go well w/the Semi Truck Air Horns I put on top of my 280z & curb finders....Hey, I think I can use those. They definately would solve the Directional problem...Hey, speaking of directional-didnt Madonna wear those things on stage during her concerts? Kevin, [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited February 18, 2001).]

quote: Originally posted by BLKMGK: Fun and games. Thanks for the info - wish I'd asked before the coatings were applied. Dummy. Blkmgk, Remember, you're not a dummy. It just takes some of us a little longer to graduate from John Wayne's School of Hard Knocks. Its all a learning experience Grasshopper; when you can take these bushings from my hand...you too will be ready to run your own shop. Ahsooo,grasshopper. Kevin,

I'm telling you guys; Dallas/Ft.Worth & Houston Salvage yards are pretty reasonable. If you are going to pay someone S&H check Texas yards first & last. I've been asking round for the T-56 for the last three years when I come across one just so I'll have a reference. Yes they go fast; but most dealers sell them for the $850 to $1250 range; and that would include the clutch/flywheel/slave cylinder. I posted most Dallas Salvage yards last week w/their ph#'s...I believe on the "Announcements" section. Both Dallas/Ft.Worth and Houston have a lot of Camaros/Firebirds runing around-there's always a dozen every week in the AutoTrader parts section & about every other week you come across a T-56 equipped F-body at a salvage yard. To think of all those #'s that doesnt even include the Salvage Yards just on the outer limits of Mansfield. Mansfield is nothing but Salvage Yard after Salvage Yard for about a 5 mile strip. I'll have to get those #'s for ya. Another good idea is to call AutoTrader: I believe you can get a subsciption to any city they publish in; you may get the book a little late but it'll have the picture to go w/the add & you can see what you're looking at. Jusat my .02c's worth. Kevin,

Hey Blackmgk, Just addressed that in your other post on where you asked for tips when pulling the rear & removing the control arm spindles. Read my last entry there & that should help you. Yes you have to hacksaw the bushings out & I would make sure & remove any/all paint/powdercoat from the inside of the lower control arms where the bushings are going to go as you should coat them heavily w/the special lube that came w/your kit. We all know that lube & paint/podercoating doesnt mix! Kevin. [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited February 17, 2001).]

Those pins are called "Spindles" by Nissan. If you're a Z Car Club Member they give you a discount. I believe mine were like $15 or $16 a piece after tax. Courtesy Nissan also sells a video; about 2.5hours long regarding the Energy Steering/Suspension/Struts Overhaul & also shows how to Renew the Steering Rack. I purchased this video first & saw how fun (Difficult) it would be to remove those pins w/out damaging them...just bought new ones before attempting the job. One thing I did on the lower control arm bushings. After removing the old rubber (if you're using the Energy Suspension Kit) you'll have to (Suppose to) hacksaw the inner metal sleeves out. These are the sleeves separating the rubber bushing from the lower control arm metal housing; instead of hacksawing I used an air chisel.....very carefully & I mean very,very very slowly to push out the metal liners; Guess I'm to impatient to do the hacksaw thing. Oh, & when you're putting your Struts back together; make sure you put some oil in the tubes before final instal. I had the entire rear suspension back together before I realized I forgot to put some oil in the left rear side strut. As pathologically focussed (Anal Retentive) as I am; I removed the strut & did it right...and then reinstalled the strut & complete rear suspension; again. Suppose doing it only once would have been to easy. You cant get those pins out easy; there's no way. I used a torch, a vise and a lot of elbow grease. The video suggests using a Press & if you dont have one taking it to your machine shop to do it for you. Instead of taking .5 to 3.0 hours per side the machine shop can do each one in about 5minutes. If I had to do it over again I would've also tore down the stub axle & replaced/repacked its bearing. I didnt have time as this car was my daily driver. When you use a torch to remove the pins you can bake the grease in the stub axle area & after driving awhile you'll begin to hear the bearing squealing at you. Mine came out okay: however, for you it may be a good time to take issue w/the stub axle-I mean you have it all apart-why not do it now since this isnt your daily driver. Kevin,

In addition to buying a chevy performance catalogue you can also order from HPBooks the "Chevy Power:Official Factory Performance Guide". It contains tips on different builds for the SBC, BBC, 60degree & 90degree V6; also well worth purchacing Dont have a ph# but you can order it from Barnes/Noble or any other book store. All info is GM's, HPBooks was just the publisher. One other note; all you Hi/Po guys out there-surely you know someone who is a GM Employee. When I worked for MIC-a subsidiary of GMAC-which we all know is owned by GM: I could get my parts from the GM Warehouse direct at "Cost" w/out going thru the dealers. In other words, I got my parts at the same price the Dealers did. Dealers will usually mark up a part 70%. Having said that: there are some Dealers out there that want the GM Perf.Parts out on the streets & therefore only charge S&H & sell said parts at a mismal mark-up, yet those dealers are few/far between. Anyway; if you know a GM employee-buy them a Steak Dinner for ordering the parts for you; the only catch is the GM warehouse only takes cash (exact amount) & it must be picked up by the employee who has to show proof he/she is a GM Employee, such as a copy of his/her latest pay check: so this usually means a 1/2 day off from work. Hope you know the GM Employee well! Something to think about. Kevin, PS: Oh yea, one other point; once you have your GM Employee committed; call the GM Warehouse-you have to have the part#'s for the parts you want. What I used to do if I didnt have the part# is call a Chevy Dealer & talk to their parts man; get the part#'s from him & their costs; the call the warehouse & they can tell you if said parts are in or have to be ordered: get the final bottom line cost. Once you have committed-just ask what their procedures are for p/up & you're on your way. [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited February 17, 2001).]

Z-freak, In all my dreaming about a custom hood; I've narrowed it down to a few ideas (by the way I have a 78z). Either using a late 90's Camaro SS scoop, similiar to Franks, using something similiar to the Viper; you know, a small trianglular inlet...I thought that would look good right at the onset of the center bulge in the hood. That would be low provile & effective. My other option was to use the factory hood vents & connect an aftermarket Ram Air Box to the vents & attach a scoop on top of each vent; the scoop I'ld get from a Mid-80's Bi-Turbo Hood 300ZXT, it I could find one in the salvage yards: that would also be low profile, effective & those around would know something under your hood was about to grab hold of'em & not let go. Kevin, [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited February 17, 2001).]

Definately looks like good progress; has the electrical been figured out yet; or have your concerns been mechanical only for the moment. Almost looks like the V8 belongs there. Kevin,

sorry; hit the wrong icon trying to add to the previous message. My computer sucks; second time, Duh! as in Duhmmy. I know I didnt get much sleep last night but this is rediculous; I think the nut behind the wheel is getting a little loose...goodnight all; tomorrow is a new day-isnt it(?). Hey, I just noticed all three of these consecutive posts say 146 on them; if they're seperate post shouldnt they be 146, 147, 148; ok-I feel a little better-just a computer glich as I know I clicked on the correct icon....I'm going to bed early anyway. [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited February 15, 2001).]

sorry, clicked on the wrong icon trying to add to my previous message. [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited February 15, 2001).]

quote: Originally posted by scarp: I would still love to see this in a Z . . http://www.falconerengines.com Inagine a stock Z hood w/just the stacks sticking thru: think anyone would notice; think if it were Fire Engine Red you couldnt pass a cop w/out getten the "EVIL EYE". Give me two of them to go also; I love the sound of multiple valves/overhead cam(s); its almost like someone is singing to me....ahhhh. For some unknown reason I have this overwhelming desire to give that engine a big hug. [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited February 15, 2001).]

Mike, Thanx for the info & I knew you meant nothing by it so no need to worry about my feelings-I'm very thick skinned....just dont talk bout my Mamma, "That woman's a Saint"! Seriously tho, good luck & Remember we want pic's; lots of pic's of the front nose, ducting/diffuser well into the underbody. Kevin, [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited February 15, 2001).]

quote: Originally posted by Mikelly: Damn, Kevin Sure is curious! I'm ordering up a one piece front end made of fiberglass, so modifying it won't be an issue: ALA a VIPER GTS: Last info I got from someone else who did it was $10,000 for two days!!! Mike Mike, Curious-yea but not ususally to this degree. Its merely coincidental that I was reading a book on Downforce (or should I say Negative Lift) when I read your bio/posts on wanting to go 200mph-that triggered the curiosity bug in me. Mike, I know your free time is mostly on your car (& now wedding), you being the resourceful one that you are, have you ever checked into making your own miniture wind tunnel-modeling your car in miniture scale & checking the results that way. Sure the hard part is doing it; but there are books, books & more books out there on the subject; $10k for two days-I dont think I could sleep the week prior to testing my car. I'ld be a nervous wreck making sure I had my plans ready on what to test if Plan a,b,c didnt show positive results. About the wing, definately go w/a stronger unit; dont leave this, possibly once in a lifetime opportunity, to chance. On the nose you mentioned "ordered a glass one piece" does this mean you had one customized: or bought one already on the market & you'll merely connect the ducting once its installed. If it is a customized nose: where, who, how much & when will we get a chance to see a picture of it? Does the maker of this nose plan on making addt'l noses (keep those molds) & if its a good looking piece & functional to boot would he give us (Hybridz) a discount if we made a group purchase. Dont have to worry about the group thing now-you obviously have bigger things to tackle; but just something to consider & keep on the back burner. Cant wait for pictures & wint tunnel results!

quote: Originally posted by Fast Frog: Thanx Pete: I do have desk top dyno. I've got Dyno 28 and Dyno 2000. B] Hey guys, I've got the old Desk Top & was wondering if the improvements in the Dyno 2000 make it worth getting. The old Dyno was fun in that it was the first Computer Dyno I purchased but I didnt feel I was able to fully customize as I would have liked. Does the new set up allow for more options than the first Dyno set up allowed? Kevin,

quote: Originally posted by Mikelly: If I can get enough support financially I am going to try to get the car to a wind tunnel in North Carolina. Mike [/b] Mike, if you can get access to a wind tunnel; you've already got 95% of most race car designers beat; the only designers that have that pull is usually the Auto Mfg's. Good luck in that area-hope you can pull it off. Just curious; what about wheel housing turbulence. I dont know what your plans are there...but something simple for the front you may keep in mind-The 69-70 Dodge Superbirds that had the vent scoops on top of the front fenders; when the cars first came out the Engineers told everyone they put them there as the tire/wheel kept bottoming out over bumps....only years later the truth came out. Dodge/Ply discovered extreme front wheel turbulence at high rpm; once they cut the wholes in the top of the fender & placed the vent scoop over it-turbulence all but disappeared. Its simple; but of course it means you'll need another pair of fenders. I've also considered fabricating (paying someone to do it-as my metal fabricating skills are minimal) 70's/80's Pontiac T/A side fender vents into my Z; either for A) to vent the front wheel wells connect a tube (Tunnel) from the engine bay to the side fender vent to aid in venting the heat from the engine. Do you plan on venting the rear wheel housing at all; if you have everything else theorectically air tight do you even need to vent the rear wheel housing? Also have you thought about turbulence coming in from the side of the car: Like, maybe installing a side lip instead of a skirt that widens as it runs further to the rear; or do you prefer a skirt? I guess either should prevent any air leaking underneath at high rpms. I was also curious after reading your bio on your personal site; is the whale tale still on the car & is it affective; are you keeping that on the car when you make your attempt at the 200mph mark? What about a chin splitter incorporating your diffuser to your underbody mods? So many possibilities, so little time. Sounds like you have your work cut out for you....hope you make it; would be pretty cool for a V8Z to break the 200's not to mention be able to put that on a Resume'.

quote: Originally posted by Fast Frog: Comments or advice?? Rick [/b] Rick, Sounds like someone has been burning the midnight oil. Decisions, Decisions, Decisions. Congrat's on the groundbreaking of your new project-wish I could say the same. A few ideas off the top of my head. First, you definately want to go with an engine that fits in the z-eng.bay w/minimal mod's. Secondly; you're gonna have so much torque in such a light chassis (240/260/280Z) I'ld go w/the smaller 427 also. As for the Cyl.Heads; David Vizard's book on Modifying SBC Cyl.Heads flow tested those exast heads w/very mild porting. He tested both the 1.94/1.50 & 2.10/1.60 valve set ups. He came up w/these #'s: 1.94 Intake @ .500 lift/1.50 Exh. @ .500 lift ...............180cc.................122cc 2.10 Intake @ .500 lift/1.60 Exh. @ .500 lift ...............248cc.................170cc Lingenfelter's book mentioned the Interport Relatioinship with emphasis on the Exhaust. Say your Intake flows 200cc while your Exh. only flows 100; Divide 200 into 100 & you come up w/a .50% E/I...not good. According to the flow capability of your heads Brodix/Track I has a 66% E/I w/smaller valves & a 68% E/I w/larger valves...pretty good yet Lingenfelter goes on to say that most engine builders prefer an 80 to 85% E/I relationship. Another point on Cyl.Heads; to determine what minimum CC's must flow. Multiply the Peak RPM times Displacement & Divide by 3456; take that number & divide by the number of cyl's in your engine. Rick in your set up this comes to 92.66cc's; to take into account intake runner restrictions you can multiply that number by 1.5 & you get 139cc's required to reach peak torque/power. I'ld say your Brodix heads can do that! About the Camshaft: Remember the late 70's & early 80's; if you wanted performance N/A car you pretty much were stuck w/Pontiac T/A's (Sorry Ford Guys-Trying to make a point here). The Pontiac's 400ci were not high in hp; but their eng's produced a lot of torque because of their bore/stroke relationships. I guess what I'm trying to say is: Dont go overboard w/the cam's profile. I'll agree that Big Blocks (Big Small Block in this case) can handle a larger cam easier than a typical small block. On a previous post Myron indicated his cam's profile to me on his old ride-close to yours. It to was a Mechanical Roller. He was using 1.65 rockers on the intakes; he couldnt exhaust the gasses fast enough to take advantage of his cam's lift. Another book I have on Camshafts discusses the Mechanical Roller's: Says this: A solid roller inflicts brutality on the valve train which explains the high cost of its required components. Therefore, be sure & spend more upgrading beyond what is simply needed for a typical camshaft install. Bib rollers w/lots of lift require double/triple springs to eliminate valve float & high rpm's, light weight titanium retainers w/10 degree locks, thick wall chrome moly pushrods to resist deflection. Also recommended chrome moly rocker arms studs to resist snapping under high spring loads, roller rocker arms, stud girdle to rduce valve train flex; of course a true roller timing set. One interesting note-they also suggest a camshaft w/built in Ductile Iron gear to make it easier on the distributor. As for streetable, that's a relative term. Usually 112-114 LDA's (overlap) are considered street cam's. The more duration you run the wider LDA you'll need for an acceptable idle. I'm not wanting to discourage you-but just advising you to be very careful in your camshaft choices, Ask your engine builder if he knows anyone running something comparable to what your looking for-then you can get a first had crack at its performance/idle characteristics. Sounds like you're on your way to a monster engine. Dont get in a hurry, ask a lot of questions & then make an educated choice. Once you've made that choice it will be a good one because you will have researched it thoroughly; after making that decision dont look back & enjoy your ride! Hope I didnt ramble; wish I were starting my project! [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited February 14, 2001).]

quote: Originally posted by David 280Z: my buddy has a custom 3.1L Turbo Cavalier and he got custom half shafts that will(hopefully) withstand about 600hp Sounds like one mean Cavalier; remind me not to line up next to him at a traffic stop.

I've always like that kit; I wont do it but I still have to check out the magazine; thanks.