big-phil

Are you sure its not the CAS? I had 2 cas go on mine, the 3rd cas and it runs smooth and strong. oh and I stunt an 01 cbr 929, I see you have one of those also.

GrayZee is the man!! its true, GrayZee was nice enough to p.m. me on and off all day........ALL DAY people! If you did,nt live in Canada (Oh....Canada-singing-) I'd like to take you out for a beer......"a" GrayZee I was born and raised in Maine, so Canada is kinda like a 2nd home, our hockey team always played your hockey team, the national anthem, the use of the word "a". Now I live in Texas, and the "word" y,all is thrown around about as much. But love it here as well. My car is still running great! I had some problems with my O2 sensor, when hitting boost my air/fuel guage would drop like a rock to lean and never come back! so I replaced the O2 sensor $19.99 at Auto Zone and she reads much much better, shows that I was getting fuel after all and plenty of it!

Turned out to be the efi relay, you no that green relay on passenger side of engine bay. car runs like a bat out of hell now.

read my profile for specs, when I first put it all together it started sputtering, then I switched from CAS on block to CAS in dizzy. Ran great for about 2 days, went to parts store let it idel in the parking lot for about 5-10 min. when I drove off the car would not go over 2000 rpm. got home unplugged the CAS from dizzy plugged in the one on the block and it would rev over 2000 rpm but sputted at idel like before. Went to wreaking yard yesterday and got another dizzy with CAS in it, put it on, car runs mint, boost is great, runs perfect. then I get home shut it off, try to start it and nothing. No spark, no power at the coil, no injector fire, tried plugging into the CAS on the block and still nothing. Then after about 30 min of jacking with it it starts and runs perfect. Now CAS is plugged back into the dizzy, went for drive. pulls hard no stumble. everything running great. I get home shut it off and try to imedietly start it again, nothing, no spark, no power at the coil, no injector fire?? I have a green light on the turbo ecu the whole time. Green light is on, goes off when cranking, when I stop cranking light blinks one time then stays on. is that normal? please help my wife is bitching that the car was just fine and did'nt need a turbo. of course we know otherwise, not only does it need a turbo but needs a bigger turbo......

OK the timing is a little off the scale right now. Its down past the bottom of the scale. It seems to run good, no knocking under boost, so I guess its ok. I was having trouble with cold starting, but found that a couple hoses were bent so far as to pinch them off. Fixed that and it started great this morning.

240Z, the turbo uses only 2 of the 3 wires. Thanks again Grayzee I'm going out to try that right now. And I'm hooking up my exhaust.

I've been searching but I can't find a step by step. I have a timing light, but from what I read you have to get the motor to TDC and do something with the dizzy rotor button???? Someone please give me a step by step. Thanks!

Thanks for all your help GrayZee, I'm trying to find some posts that will tell me how to set the timing. I thought you just put the light to it, but from i've been reading I think I have to set the motor to tdc then turn it back so the ignighter is??????????????? can you direct me to a link or explain what I have to do?

Yea, I just took the bottom pin out, removed the ring thing with the splines drilled it out and it went on. The 81 has a slot for the oil pump shaft, and the 83 only has one side of that slot there, with splines. the slot is still offset like the others so I just knew it would work! Now I think I'm ready for that z31 ecu. HOOT HOOT...wooowa. Hey the z31 can manage up to 14 psi right?

Hey thats what mine was doing turned out it was the CAS. I guess it was not sending a clear signal. I would try spraying some cleaner on it.....if its on the block that is.

I put a complete turbo setup on my n/a motor along with computer and wireharness. It seemed to run good for a day or so, then it started sputtering and missing. I checked the injector plugs, spark plugs, wires, distributor, rotor, unplugged the computer spayed cleaner and pluged it back in. Then I put a timing light on to check timing and found what I thought was the problem. The timing light was flickering, it was not sparking on every motor rotation. I thought that the CAS must control when the plug fires?? So I thought there must be something wrong with it. My CAS is on the block, but I also have the 83 distributor with the CAS inside, but don't have the drive shaft for it. So like anybody who wants there stuff fixed now I drilled out the splined bottom so it would fit on my n/a oil shaft.....badda boom-badda bing it fit, it started, and it don't miss a lick. Boost it up.....................

Ok got the wire harness in and .......it works! Man it goes to a strong 7 psi. When I hit the gas it goes toward the lean for a split second then BOOM goes into the rich side with boost. Its awsome!! I had some troble getting my distributor cap and rotor for the 82 turbo CAS on block. Every auto part store I went to they pulled up the 83 distrib. which has a rotor button with a set screw, and the 82 has the push on type. One more question..I do not need to set timming right? I tried, but even moving the distrib. cap with car running didn't seem to change anything.

OK some question as I'm in the middle of putting the turbo ecu in 1. When you say hook wire to the + on the ignition switch, ( for the coil )does that mean 12v+ when key is on?, or 12v+ only when the key is in the start position (turning the starter) 2. My TPS is cut on the turbo wire harness. My n/a TPS wire has 3 wires, the turbo has two. I have my n/a TB on the car, and need to wire it up. Were do the 2 wires go on the 3 prong plug? 3. The brown and green wire near the fuel relay that goes to the + on the starter does that go to 1. the terminal from the power from the batt. or 2. the terminal below that one? then there is a third terminal but I think thats a ground? Thanks guys, after the car is running I'll thank you every time I start it!

Thats funny he DID tell me I must have the pressure relief valve. So the ecu does know that the car is in boost? I got all the parts, & just put the cas on the block, and now I'm putting in the turbo wire harness and ecu..--thanks to grayzee I'm reading and printing out alot of your posts on where the plugs go, and what to splice.

I talked today with a Nissan tech, an older guy that worked on the turbo cars when they were new. He said that the knock sensor is the only way the computer will retard the ignition. Other than that the computer does not know when the car is in boost. He also said if you hook up a timming light, reve the car up a bit then take a wrench and tap on the block you can see the timming retard. is this true? I was asking him how the car knows its in boost, because I have the 82 distributor but with out the guts. so I thought I could buy the guts and install the cas on to the crank pully of my car and go with that.

I have a complete 82 turbo motor (blown) that I got all my parts from will the dizzy shaft from that work with the 83 dizzy in my motor, or should I just use the CAS off the 82 mounted on the block, and would that work with my n/a dizzy

will the 82 ecu and wireharness work on my n/a turbo motor if I do not have the knock sensor, head temp sensor, and if I dont have the cas? I bought a 83 dizzy off e-bay with the cas inside and its on its way so I will have it soon. But I have the n47 head and n/a block so I don't have the other 2 sensors (I have them just no place to put them on the motor) Will it run with out these plugged in? ALSO do I also only need the harness going from the coil to the ecu (ignition harness) Not the harness that goes under the dash to the pass side of the car?

thanks Jersy!!

hey looking good. i'm up in oklahoma now visiting the inlaws, I need to try to keep my car parked untill I can get the begi on and the fuel pressure gauge. when I do drive it I don't get into the boost and I keep a close eye on the fuel/air ratio guage which seems to stay in the rich but if i get into to much it goes lean so no more boosting it for me untill its all done! I also think I'm going to get a bigger fuel pump.

The turbo TB looks much smaller than my n/a TB plus my manifold looks to have been ground down on the inside (ported) I used the turbo TB at first in my turbo swap on my n/a manifold, and it felt sluggish with out boost so I then put my n/a TB on and the car feels great with out boost and even better with boost. Is the n/a TB and the turbo TB the same size, and the previous owner put on a 240sx 60mm TB? Mine is a 78 280z Turbo is 82.

I got a turbo afm for $25 bucks, and used the link you sent me to swap my n/a afm guts into the turbo, then I turned it about 14 teeth to richen the fuel and got a air/fuel meter to make sure I don't go lean. I still need to get a begi fmu so I can keep the fuel pressure up. I only got into the boost a couple times I want to get my oil cooler on, and get the fmu, and I also want to get a fuel pressure guage. but it did show about 7 pounds of boost, and that whirling sound is awsome!

I just finnished this past weekend turbo'ing my N/A motor. every thing is running great but I had one problem. The oil cooler fitting that bolts to the motor has male threads, my block also has male threads for the oil filter. Can I unthread the male thread from my block to make it female so I can thread in the oil cooler fitting? Oh and 7psi feels great when all you've had is no boost at all!!!! All smiles

what about the spring wheel?

is counter, or clockwise for richer fuel?

my horns not to strong sounding are they all like this? My wife was in front of the car and she said it sounds fine, but then again she wanted to spray some WD40 on my brakes when the sqeaked.