djz

They were spun by a company here in New Zealand.

I went with a GT4088R with the 0.85AR exhaust housing. I've pretty much always used Garrett turbos and wanted something slightly bigger than a GT3582R, it seems to be reasonably responsive and should suit my power goal perfectly.

Jesus Christ, this is becoming one of the most ridiculous threads I've ever partaken in. Lets all put our egos behind us and move on eh? To the original poster, what did you do about head bolts for the motor with the RB26 head? Did you make spacers for the head and use 10mm bolts or tap the block for the larger RB ones?

Any sort of cooling system modifications or modifications in general? Quite a few people install swirl pots, from what I understand they are mainly to remove bubbles from the cooling system. This is a picture of the engine bay of one of the old Bathurst GTRs which is a pretty simple setup as it still runs the ITBs. I have read these engines started off at around 477kW before having the boost restricted.

What are you going to do for a handbrake?

I have been told (but haven't tried it myself) that on the back of a 280ZX tach there is a white resistor, if you remove this the tach should work straight off an RB computer, this may also work for aftermarket ECUs.

I thought I'd start a thread to show people how I've gone about putting S13 coilovers in my ZX. My setup currently in the front is: S13 coilovers - BC golds with the knuckle to strut bolt holes drilled out to 14mm S14 turbo knuckles with 5 stud hubs R32 GTR rotors (296x32) R33 GTS-25t calipers R30 Skyline control arms with custom made ball joints R31 Skyline sway bar Aftermarket S13 radius rods that have been modified R32 rack ends and tie rod ends (much beefier than the original ones & S13 ones) Because of the country I live in all modifications like this need to be inspected and certified safe. I have seen people trying to use standard ZX control arms & ball joints, this won't work properly and is unsafe, the taper on the ball joint is different and the end of the control arm is not angled upwards like an S13 arm which means the ball joint at rest is fully over to one side and has pretty much 0 travel. If I was to do this again I would look at using S13 or S14 control arms or possibly R31. Have a look around and see if you can find somebody that rebuilds truck ball joints etc, they may be able make custom ball joints with the correct taper. The R31 sway bar bolts right up to the R30 control arms that I used and fits the standard Z mounts. I like the idea of using the complete S13 or S14 hub and knuckle as this means that you can bolt on any brake upgrade that fits an S13/S14/R32/R33/Z32/C33/A31 etc etc Ignore the rust hole, this has been fixed. This shows how short R31 radius rods are and the necessary angle on the ball joints. I had my ball joints made longer to keep the control arms at a good angle when the car is lowered. I used a chassis punch to make the holes for the camber plates. This is what the brackets that I made look like for the radius rods, got the idea from the TTT ones. For the rear I'm using: Z31 5 stud hubs, bearings and spacer Z31 5 stud rotors that have had the OD machined down, can't remember what measurement S130 late model calipers and I think I used the Z31 caliper brackets Z31 4x1 companion flanges & axles

Whoops! Didn't realise this thread was so old, I'll leave this here anyway. The Link G4 software (PC Link) comes with an RB base map as well, it's for an RB20 with 440cc injectors but it'll get you going.

From what I've figured out using the factory PCV valve in the stock location would create a vacuum leak when the PCV valve is open.

I've had quite a search and come up with a million different ways of plumbing up the PCV system on the RB26, most of them have been for motors that are still running AFMs where mine is not. I want to run a positive vent system, not just venting to atmosphere. Is the drawing below pretty much the best way of doing this? The yellow points are capped off and ignore the lines that are already there, the only lines I'll be running will be the ones I have drawn in. The catch can will be baffled. Should I run a filter on one of the yellow capped off points on the rocker covers? Has anybody vented the block itself? I'm not using the rear oil return so I could run a pipe up from that to the catch can? The motor is not mine btw, just a picture I found.

That is a beautiful looking car. When I did my swap (on an S130 w/R200) I used an S13 or R32 front diff flange, they use 4 x 10mm bolts, depends on what you are doing about the driveshaft.

Don't know if it's the same car but here are some photos of one I found: http://www.testarossa.jp/library/s130/index.htm

Picked the car up today, told it had 3 problems that needed to be sorted out before tuning it again: 1 - The clutch is slipping 2 - There is at least one exhaust leak, maybe more 3 - The boost is creeping, wastegate spring pressure was 8psi and it was creeping up to around 14psi at 8000rpm. The clutch I was expecting to slip sooner or later, turns out it was sooner. The exhaust did sound like it was leaking from somewhere but I couldn't pin point it, it may be the v band on the back of the turbo, it was a pain to get it sealing up but I thought I'd got it but we did knock the exhaust a bit trying to get the car on the trailer. The boost creeping is a bit of a pain, I'll have to take the manifold off again and look at running some bigger pipe to the wastegate. But, the car made 361rwhp @ 14psi as it was and to be honest it sounds really really awesome. I drove it home (with no brake booster) as I live like 2 streets over from NZEFI, gave it a little squirt and it sounds amazing. I've achieved my main goal which was making more power than the L28 did hah. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5GhnSvDQVio http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F-ALk5nymh8 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HzYyeVjHqMw

Gauge install, they aren't quite straight I know, I'll straighten them up once I've got them set up fully as I still need to put the clear plastic part in front of the gauges and the front part of the surround. Sorry about how crumpled it is, I think one of the cats was sitting on it in my car! I like how the power is still going up at 8000rpm bit of a speed difference compared to the old motor, looking at the old dyno charts it was only doing 160Km/h at the red line in 4th with the L28 & 3.7:1 diff, looks like it's doing 232Km/h now! I'll have to dig out the last dyno chart that I had done with the L28 & 3.9:1 diff.

Gearbox out and back in today to try and fix an oil leak, thought it was the rear main seal, looks like it was actually leaking out of the bolts that hold the sump onto the rear main seal holder, two of them needed to be shorter than the rest which I didn't realise, hopefully it's all good now. Also removed the filler bung from the gearbox which I forgot to do before I put it in, when I tried to get it out with the box in the car it was impossible. We ended up rooting it so I'll have to have a dig around at home and see if I can find a spare. Gavin got the new bands for my wheels on Friday so hopefully I'll get them back before this coming Friday. I got some aluminium pipe to make a reasonable size vacuum canister out of, should have that finished tomorrow. This will make the vacuum signal more stable. Bought a fuel pressure gauge to see what was going on with the adjustable regulator, it was turned up about .5 bar higher than factory so I wound it back down. Have been thinking about getting adjustable cam gears and a turbo beanie before it goes on the dyno but I don't think I'll have time to put the cam gears on, I've got quite a list of things I need to finish off before Saturday. Mate drilled the downpipe and welded on O2 sensor bung on for me while I was mucking around with the gearbox. Outside for a little bit while we swapped the cars around.

I managed to buy a set of 2nd hand Sard 720cc injectors for $450 with an RB fuel rail. I'll be putting the RX7 ones back on Trademe as is I think. If anybody here is interested in them let me know, two of them are probably dead but might come right with a clean. Wheels are 2 - 3 weeks away from being finished, I've gone with 10" wide, the 5" bands just weren't going to work. Mate bought a tig welder so I've been playing with that a bit, I've welded some brackets onto the intercooler for the oil cooler mount, I think I'm going to mount the power steering cooler off to one side behind the front bumper. I went to put the bumper on yesterday and found that the mounts have nearly broken off it so my mate is giving me a fibreglass repair kit and I'll put some strips of aluminium in there to try and strengthen it up a bit, running over my bumper if they broke off would make me pretty angry. Drilled the two radius rod mount bolt holes in the control arm with a right angle drill, I'm going to get some cap screws to mount them with as the bolt heads are just a bit too big to get a socket on nicely. New injectors are in, car starts and runs which is good. Power steering reservoir mounted, you can see the blow off valve in there too Front brakes on Oil cooler mounting tabs Oil cooler mounted - top only so far Trying to fix the broken front bumper mounts with some aluminium with fibreglass over it, we'll see if it holds together

Wheels showed up today so I quickly pulled two of them apart and moved the centres then tried them on the car. They don't actually look too bad with 25mm spacers from and rear. 7.5"s on the front, 9"s on the back with spacers Would prefer this much dish on the front Rather than this 9"s on the front showing how much they stick out with 25mm spacers, tread is well within the guards and would be even more if I swap the 235s onto the 9"s instead of the 255s.

Doing another dump into this thread from threads on other forums: The finished sump, 4 trap doors, one really long pickup and space ship looking wings. Rob @ Racefab welded this up for me too, I need to get a 45 degree fitting for it to put it a bit closer to the top cover. Zac finished up my intercooler, looks & fits perfect. Need to make up some mounts for it now. The beginnings of my very very industrial looking gearbox mount, the RHS is a light hanging bracket that I found at work hah, hopefully it's thick/strong enough for the certifier. 10 ton 150mm stroke rams, base plates and top plates, 4 of these should lift my car pretty easily hah. Found out something interesting today, I finally got the back end of the car jacked up and removed the original driveshaft, it looks like the front half of the R33 driveshaft is the perfect length. All I need to do is change the flange on the diff which hopefully the S14 diff that I have at home will have the right one on it!

How much boost are you running? The standard injectors etc should be able to cope fine until the exhaust wheel falls off your turbo.

It's been a while since I updated this but: Quick little video of it running. It sounds like a tractor 'cause the exhaust is only tacked together atm.

You might want to rethink the front end, the ball joints look like they are maxed in one direction. The S130 lower arms don't have the ball joint angled upwards like the S13 arms do. How much of the floor are you going to have to chop up to fit the front driveshaft and transfer case in?

It's heaps easier to put an RB into a S13 than a Z of any sort. The S13 chassis is pretty much/exactly the same as a C33 Laurel, these had RB's standard - comments about the handling being wrecked etc is rubbish. Get a crossmember out of pretty much anything early to mid 90s that had an RB standard and bolt it in, R32, C33, A31 etc, then bolt your RB in, gearbox mount may need to be slightly modified, I believe all you have to do is make an adaptor plate for the rubber mount. No need to buy another sump & pickup, engine mounts etc. Parts are much more plentiful for S13s etc than Z's, you have 20 years of advancement in chassis design & strength, suspension, brakes etc etc The Z will look better of course.

My mate had a problem kind of similar when he didn't have good enough grounds between the block/heads and chassis. He had the battery mounted in the boot in his car, which didn't help. Cool swap, car looks awesome.

I used a chassis punch to do mine.

With the motor sitting in the bay and on the correct angle it should be alright. Why don't you shorten the steel pipe a little bit?