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I haven't thought about it at all but if someone hasn't tried it before it's probably not worth doing, especially if you are looking at non Neo RB20s which haven't been made in 15+ years.

Why do you want to start with an RB20 head?

The 4wd RB boxes need a different driveshaft as well, they have a flange on the output rather than a male spline.

You should have 12v on one of each of the injector wires, the other wire is pulsed to ground by the computer, if you don't have 12v start with the relay for the injector power supply and the wiring for that.

Distributor incorrectly assembled? I'm think from memory you can remove the offset tang part and turn it around if you remove the roll pin in the bottom.

Planning on buying an S20?

You mean the OS Giken 3+L kits?

A GTS for $6k US? Tell them they are dreaming. Do you mean GTR?

Doesn't look good enough to me but it's hard to tell from the pictures. What did you actually use to remove the gasket material from the surface with? Some staining is okay but that looks more like stuck on bits, especially around the top left hand quarter of the head as in your picture.

I have corrected the link above, it was actually for the main studs but the 10mm diameter and torque figure are still the same.

What are the instructions referring to at the top when they say 7/16" diameter? Not the stud and not the nut, wrong instructions? Yeap, here's a link to the correct instructions from the ARP website for the 10mm studs in the kit, correct torque is 60ftlb. http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/202-4206.pdf

Maybe the rear suspension needs more work? My car had no traction problems with 360rwhp with 275 Nittos, my mates 500rwhp VQ30 powered S13 has a little less traction but that is only running 255s.

What I've done in the past with an N42 head is move the power steering pump back by making up an adaptor bracket and using the hole rearward of where the mechanical fuel pump would bolt on as it's in line with the normal bolt holes for the pump bracket, this way you can run one belt, the tensioning is done by the alternator and the belt lined up pretty much perfectly.

Have you changed from the T04Z?

Looks to be a factory RB20 manifold that's had DCOE flanges welded to it.

His thread about it is here, there's a picture in the first post: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/104581-twin-cam-l6-34l/

Intake manifold is just a big plenum welded to what looks like a short amout of the standard intake manifold flange/runners, throttle body looks like a VH45 one. RIPS have made at least two similar looking plenums (based on RB plenums) for L series powered cars in NZ. It's a big turbo, T88H-34D, they probably did what they have to do to fit it in. Makes 810PS and weights 1280Kgs according to that website. I've thought about using an aftermarket 1JZ/2JZ plenum on an L series before, I've seen cars with RB26 plenums upside down too but they take a big of modifying because of the downwards angle of the inlet pipe, when they are on an L series it points upwards.

I never got any good pictures of mine with the 26 in it but: And now with the NICS 20:

It was on an R32 crank with a Jun collar. I was at the track, just touched on the limiter (just over 8000rpm) and the oil light came on. One of the contributing factors is probably a loose crank pulley which wasn't done up by me but I should have checked it as I knew the shop that did it up didn't have a torque wrench big enough, it wasn't completely loose but I undid the bolt with a ratchet, which isn't exactly the 400+Nm it's supposed to be done up to. But as I said, I won't use another N1 pump with standard gears.

It's been a while since I updated this, been through a fair bit since then! Sold the Stagea and bought another car some of you guys might appreciate: Got the Z legal and drove is around for about 6 months till this happened: 2870Km old N1 pump, it probably broke due to a couple of reasons but I won't recommend that anybody uses an N1 pump with standard gears. I had the 63,000K ex Z31 NICS RB20DET that I bought for the sump and mounts sitting around since I removed it from my old R30 so I thought I'd put it to use. I'll get it tuned in January hopefully and drive it like this for 6 months or so, it's running the factory FJ20 turbo from the DR30 and 444cc GTR injectors but is using everything else from the 26, intercooler, oil cooler, sump, gearbox, Link computer etc. It should be good for maybe 250rwhp if the turbo can keep up? In the mean time I also bought another almost complete RB26 that had run a bearing, number 6 big end which looks like it was probably caused by the screws coming loose in the factory oil pump. I bought it for half of what I paid for the original 26 and it's actually in better condition, no detonation damage to the head and other than the one big end journal the crank is mint, it also came with a set of 550cc RX7 injectors. I also bought a complete "series 2" RB30 for $200NZ, sold the head, auto trans and a driveshaft that came with it. The plan at the moment is to fix and sell the original RB26 and use the head off the new one combined with a built RB30 block, should get the GT40 spooling a bit faster.

No reason to start with a turbo motor, N/A RB20s are probably more common. To be honest it would be a lot of work (and expense) for very little power though, apart from the RB having 1 extra cam you'd be better off with an L28.

I'm more of an S130 guy, to be honest it's a bit hard to say what it's worth. It'd be a lot of work for somebody to swap a VG back into it. I'll ask a guy I know with a Z31 and see what he says, it's rare being a factory ZR and t top but it is a 2+2.

Bit of a shame to part out a rare car, is it dereg? I'd be interested in the front and rear hubs if you can't use them yourself.

Is this the black one on Trademe? You can use the engine mount brackets but not the subframe etc. The 200ZR sump doesn't really hold enough oil or have baffles etc if you are planning on doing any track work. If it was a factory 200ZR there's a chance it might have a limited slip (I think). Brakes can be made to work from what I've read, but they aren't they big.

Have you checked for voltage at the coils? It'd be reasonably rare for all of the channels of the ignitor to die at the same time.