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Keeping the original stub axle doesn't allow for the easy brake upgrades that the S13 knuckles/hubs do, like Z32 or GTR brakes. I did mine a different way and used R30 Skyline bottom arms with custom made ball joints with the S14 taper on them - I'm using S13 coilovers with S14 knuckles and R32 GTR brakes. I haven't actually got any pictures of the finished setup but if I did it again I'd do it a different way, probably try and use original S13 control arms or try some of these adjustable S13 arms.

This is my car with S13 coilovers installed straight out of the box, not adjusted. The collar is approx in the middle of the thread. From memory from the ground to the highest point of the wheel arch lip was about 65cm, tyres are 255/40/17s. There is plenty of adjustment either way.

The Z31 200ZR mounts weren't really working, I read on here that R31/VL would be perfect. So I got a set of VL mounts and they were even worse, the LHS mount is pretty much the same, there was a couple of mm difference but that could just be from the manufacturing process. The RHS mount was probably 40 - 50mm longer than the 200ZR mount which tipped the motor over even further to the LHS of the engine bay reducing the turbo clearance even more. With the standard VL metal mounts installed the motor wouldn't even sit on the LHS rubber mount correctly. Modified the VL right hand side engine mount, motor is sitting at a pretty good angle now. This gives me more clearance here And also here, where it mattered the most Need to weld that bit onto here for the water return from the turbo

There is a factory Nissan 6 cylinder 4.2L petrol motor, the TB42 from the Patrol/Safari. The other option might be to destroke a TB48DE. TB engines

I saw a guy that had adapted I think it might have been Maxima ball joints using some plate aluminium, I'd never get away with that here in NZ. The R30 arms are bent up at the end so they put they ball joint in the correct position. The radius rods are adjustable so the length of them is fine, another guy over here took the rod end off the end and just made up a threaded shaft so it mounts like the original S130 rods.

Can't seem to edit my previous post to fix the links so I'll post them again. I didn't use S130 struts as I wanted to use calipers with 100mm bolt spacing without adaptors so I used HR31 Skyline struts. There is no pressing involved when changing the front hubs, there is just a nut on the end of the stub that you undo then everything falls off. From what I can remember the inside diameters of the Z31 bearings are the same as the S130 bearings so the Z31 hubs will go straight onto S130 struts. The brakes I was using at the time were mixed and matched from what I could get hold of, I'm actually in the process of changing to S13 coilovers, S14 5 stud hubs and R32 GTR brakes.

I'm working through it at the moment on my car. Strut tower cut out for camber adjustment One of the problems I have at the moment, with R32 GTR rotors (296x32) the rotor is hitting on the end of the control arm Modified R30 Skyline control arms to fit inside crossmember Custom made ball joints to fit in R30 arms, S14 taper 10mm longer Mockup of S14 5 stud hubs/knuckles with BC Gold coilovers Redrilled holes in the rear to fit coilover tops I tried R31 radius rods and they were too short. At the moment I'm trying to do something similar to this with these S13 adjustable radius rods:

What computer are you going to run? How are your coils at the moment?

What part of NZ are you in? Have a look on Skylines Downunder you'll prob find more info there. The conversion itself shouldn't be too hard: Remove N/A exhaust manifold. Fit oil return fitting to block Fit turbo manifold, heatshield, turbo & lines Plumb up intercooler if you are fitting one Do skid/blow up motor

Get a factory feed and drain setup would be the cheapest option. If the bowl is at the wrong end of the pan and it came off an L28ET turn it around, you have it backwards.

What are you using the motor for? I was using cast pistons in my turbo 3.1 but it was only a road car.

Got the motor sitting in the bay tonight. Not much clearance here. Not much clearance here either. Too much clearance here. Clearance here for the wastegate looks okay.

As long as the gearbox is a long box it'll work fine. The bellhousing off either a long or short box will also be fine for use on a 71C gearbox (SR/RB/CA).

It's a Chinese one, can't remember what brand. They are all pretty much the same.

I've slowly been making progress: Bought an HKS oil cooler kit out of an R32 GTR Finished painting the engine bay: Ready for this:

What bottom arms and ball joints are you using in the front?

So you use just the R31 rubber mounts with standard R32 or R33 metal mounting brackets that bolt to the block?

The diff was out of an S13 180SX as far as I know, it may have originally been a viscous LSD, I couldn't say for sure but I'm fairly certain the originally axles I pulled out of it were the same length either side.

I'm not quite following? You have an RB26 with an intake manifold? Are you using the factory plenum and throttle bodies or an aftermarket manifold and single throttle body? If you are using the factory plenum and have tapped that it's not going to work.

Back from the dead. Hmm I got my axles in without shortening them, did you notice a problem before you shortened them? My KAAZ centre had 13mm crownwheel bolts so I had to have spacers made up to suit.

I bought an RB20DET out of a Z31 and used the motor in my R30 Skyline so I've already got a sump & engine mounts. It's a work in progress too.

I got a new master cylinder, 1" bore from an S15 - bolted straight on to the later booster I'll just have to adjust the push rod thing by the looks of it. Pulled the old master & booster out and discovered the locknut on the clevis eye bit was loose, whoops. Also pulled out the engine bay wiring harness. So as it sits now the motor is being put back together either this week or next week. I bought an RB25DET gearbox, and I'm waiting for my light weight flywheel to turn up.

Got my chur-bro today, finally. It didn't come with the other half of the v band or clamp which is a bit of a bummer, hope one of the Trademe special ones will fit. You can see the oil and water lines that I got off eBay, cheaper than buying only the oil feed line I had made up for the L28! Also got a drain flange and a nice stainless gasket. Just noticed the manifold isn't tapped for studs, bummer. Not sure what to do I don't really want to run nuts and bolts and the holes are too big to tap now. Might have to weld bolts in from the underside?

Stupid earthquake has slowed things down a bit. Got a few more bits and pieces on the way, a 44mm Tial wastegate and some 550cc RX7 injectors. I bought and fitted some Tomei rocker cover baffles, I'm not really sure whether they are necessary but a lot of people recommend fitting them, the factory ones are just open at the front so if any oil gets in them it'll just go straight through the PCV valve and into the intake manifold by the looks of it. Still trying to decide on a turbo, I'm leaning towards the larger side of things, maybe a GT4088R. The GT3582R looks alright but they have brought out the GTX3582Rs now that have billet compressor wheels, lots of people recommend the T04Z but then lots of people say they are old style wheels are inefficent, it's pretty hard to decide! I've chopped up the 200ZR sump and I'm going to extend it, the "bowl" could be increased in size by probably 1 or 2 litres pretty easily. The cheap Chinese manifolds are pretty interesting, the good ones are split between the front 3 and back 3 cylinders and could be made fully divided by fitting 2 wastegates, they vary heaps in price even though they all look exactly the same, the cheapest I found was $245 but he has no stock, next ones are $375 and $400. Got my new intercooler and chopped it up hah it's quite large but once the end tanks are modified it should fit pretty damn well. My rings turned up and the idiots sent the wrong ones, if anybody needs some rings to suit 87mm SR20DET JE pistons let me know. Sold the front suspension so it's full steam ahead with the S14 setup.

I also got some R30 front lower arms and some S14 5 stud hubs and uprights, by the looks of it it won't be too hard to swap it to S13/14 coil overs and the R33 brakes that I've got. I can get some custom ball joints made that have the S14 taper on them and I can also get them made a bit longer so I won't need to use roll center adjusters. Block is ready to be bored, head is completely stripped ready to be surfaced and I'll probably try a little porting as well. Where they mill cut in from the combustion chamber for the valve seats is a really rough transition so I'm going to smooth that out a bit. Acquired this week: Tomei type B Poncams JE forged pistons Linished & shotpeened factory rods Factory fuel rail fitted with a Nismo adjustable FPR RB26 crank fitted with a Jun oil pump drive, grub screwed, enlarged oil galleries Got some new rings on the way from the States And another complete inlet side minus injectors for my mate, he is planning on fitting an RB25 into his C110 with RB26 throttles, it'll be in the distant future though. Sold the original turbos, looks like I'll definitely be going single turbo, just have to decide which one. Painted the rocker covers, coil cover and cambelt top cover and inlet plenum, any colour as long as it's black. Finished porting/cleaning up the head, there are lots of little bits and pieces that people recommend doing so I've done pretty much all of those! Cleaning old gaskets off things is a real pain in the ass, the throttle body gaskets are rock hard, I tried everything to get them off nicely and ended up with a brass wire wheel on my die grinder and also a drill. I need to pull the gearbox out and change the bellhousing over. Bidding on some bigger injectors on Trademe, pretty sure I'll max out the 444cc GTR ones I was using in the L28. I really want to get the motor back so I can start putting it together, the rings only just left the States on the 18th even thought I ordered them 7 or 8 days ago, got ripped $60US for shipping so they better be here pretty damn fast. My mate and I parted out an '83 280ZX 2+2 ages ago that's why my car has rack & pinion power steering, I kept the brake booster & master cylinder out of it as well as I knew they'd come in handy one day. The booster is different, the mounting studs for the master cylinder are more like the later Nissans - side to side instead of top and bottom like the earlier Z's, so a later model master should bolt straight on, I'm keeping an eye out for a 1" Z32 master.