bjhines

When the crappers quit flushing the city gets evacuated. We are not talking about drinking water shortages. Obviously you can go buy more water in bottles. The problem comes from the fact that sanitation will stop working when the water runs dry. I would not bet on a wet winter. We usually have dryer winters than summers. We need massive amounts of rainfall in the next few months to keep up with the demand on our reserviors. It is unlikely we will get enough rain this winter to bring levels back up to a safe mark. The thing is, We may well run out of water before the spring rains.

I am afraid that this will hit us blindsided in a way similar to the way hurricane Katrina took NewOrleans by surprise. I can only imagine the mass hysteria the day they start evacuating residents from the entire central NC area. There are MILLIONS of residents. I live in a relatively wealthy area with a small police force. The looting that would go on in Cary after a major evacuation would be historic.

The Sunday paper had a "Doomsday" article about some of our drought problems. They have now scared the hell out of me. If we don't get rain soon, our water supplys will run out. This is only 2 months away. The local lakes and reservoirs are running dry quickly. We have already been on draconian water restrictions for months. There is no river running through the Raleigh area. The local athorities are seriously talking about closing industries and restaurants within the next month or 2. If we don't get some significant rain by 2008, they are talking about EVACUATING RESIDENTS! HOLY 4uck! We might have to leave the area. We have had humidity and rainfall similar to the SouthWest USA all year. Plants and trees are dying, The yards look like shiat. Since we have no river in the area, we seriously rely on rainfall to keep the reserviors full. We are so 4ucked. On a side note, I have been able to work on the project 240Z body without fear of flash-rust all summer long.

I can tell you that as the Pilot and senior officer, my grandfather KNEW for a fact that he and his crew stood a snowball's chance in hell against a Zero that wanted them dead. I asked him more than once why they didn't shoot the Zero down. He literally laughed and said that they would have been stupid and suicidal to go Toe to Toe with a zero. His plane's only defence was to drop low and pray to god. The Mariner's 50 cals were unlikely to hit ANYHTING. The Mariner was designed to hunt Submarines and ships. Don't let video games get in the way. The Zero pilot pulled alongside them in such a way that he could have been in the sights of several 50 cals. He knew and they knew that the 50s were highly unlikely to hit anything. Once he got close enough to wave and smile... it would have been dishonorable to shoot him with the 50s at close range.

This thread made me think... I am painting my new 240Z light metallic gold/green. It is the new Ford Mustang color "Lime Gold Metallic". This would be an easy color to adapt to the "Zero" style paint scheme. I can imagine three "meatball" race number circles and some yellow decal strips on the leading edge of the hood. Then I think of my Grandfather who experienced eye to eye contact with a Zero pilot who decided not to attack grandpa's seaplane. Everyone held their breath and kept their cool at the guns and nobody got hurt. The Zero pilot pulled alongside theeir PBM Mariner, waved and smiled then flew off. Grandad figures the Zero pilot was low on ammo and fuel and figured a respectful contact with the enemy was due. The Zero could have killed them all if someone had fired the 50 cals on the seaplane.

I have several examples of the 240Z, 280Z differential crossmembers. The relative mounting positions of the bolts that hold the diff mount are the same. The 280Z crossmember is beefier than the 240Z unit. In adddition the 240Z crossmembers have 2 exhaust cut outs on the bottom sides. The 280Z units do not.

Holy crap that was a tough job blasting, I think picking the seam sealer out and seam welding the entire chassis was harder though. I will detail the process when I get back into town on Friday.

The OSPHO has dried, mostly. I used a vacuum cleaner to get the white fluff off the surface. It is sticky when wet but it appears to fully cure to a dry surface. ...

You can mount the interior door handle to the bottom lip of the door anywhere you like. It is a simple pushrod/bellcrank system. You cn relocate the handle ANYWHERE! You could even redesign the interior door handle and make it a pull cable(like a train E-stop wire).

BLASTED!!!! I still see some blue paint(lingerie)... But it is not rusty blue paint. Primer should cover that just fine. I am applying OSPHO treatment in a few minutes. Let it dry overnight and start primer.

the seal rides right on the radiused edge. Cut where I put the black lines and no more. Here are the doors I used... they were cut too far and would let rushing air into the passenger compartment at speed. ...

How the heck is that going to work? ^^^^

I must make an obsevation; I used to find some good deals on Ebay. I remember a time when browsing a given category didn't involve hundreds of repeated "snake oil" items. I used to bid a little higher than fair price and I actually won some. Lately there is always someone who will jack up the price past retail. I seriously think that many sellers are bidding on their own items to raise the price. It is unacceptable to see someone outbid me by $2 on a $100 item and then see it on Fleabay again for a starting price close to the final bid on the initial sale.

This really makes me want to find a way to 4uck with this looser.

ok... One of the buyers refers to a Google search for "IAT sensor tuning". This site used to contain a detailed post about the Fleabay fraud. http://translate.google.com/translate?sourceid=navclient&hl=en&u=http%3a%2f%2fwww%2emotor%2dtalk%2ede%2fforum%2ffaq%2diat%2dsensor%2dtuning%2dt683958%2ehtml You need to translate into English of course. The interesting fact is that the original poster removed the post due to apparent legal issues(with this fraudulent seller. There is still some discussion on the topic that shows a pattern. Apparently the "juicebox" is free, it is the instructions that you are paying for. This and some other interesting information come to light when reading the negative feedback posts. This may make it nearly impossible to get a refund if the ITEM does not work. The seller claims that your installation is the problem. It is hard to find physical fault with "instructions". There are also references to intimidation of various forms on the part of the seller. examples: The seller will issue negative feedback in response to any negative feedback. The seller apparently makes legal threats towards naysayers. The seller uses(psy-ops style) canned responses towards negative feedback to discredit naysayers. The seller forces unsatisfied customers to jump through an extraordinary number of hoops in an attempt to make them Give-up. There is at least one example of apparent Gangster-style threats. The seller also uses a number of positive reinforcements to get positive feedback. Examples: Partial or full refund is offered to change feedback to positive(keep in mind that positive feedback is worth more than the product to the seller). Apparently a $100 "prize" is offered for positive feedback. In my opinion Ebay has fallen apart. Feedback scores are meaningless. The quality of a seller has nothing to do with feedback scores. Feedback scores can be easliy manipulated from several angles. It appears that Ebay is more than happy to cater to fraud.

I don't think it would fit between the frame rails, who needs a hood. Looks like the alternator will have to work off the back.

"MegaMiles" and "The Juice Box" http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SAVE-ON-GAS-Fuel-Saver-3-UNITS-Save-up-to-23-V8-Motor_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33553QQihZ016QQitemZ260119465772 I found it in the 240Z listings, even though it only works on 1988-07 fuel injected cars. My first thought is... How is this seller getting 98% positive feedback? My second thought is... My God, All these people are dumber than livestock. I perused ... 25 pages of feedback and found some interesting information. Apparently many people are bribed into posting positive feedback. Refunds and $100 are mentioned more than once by stubborn souls trying to warn others.

I just got my copy in the mail today.

I tapped the vent tube hole for NPT. I installed an extension tube and a cheapo fuel filter to catch any spillage. It has been fine for 2 years since that mod.

I have rust there on the passenger's side. I sandblasted the area inside and underneath. I cut out the worst little areas with side cutters(no more than 2 sq."). I welded small pieces inside and out(inside as much as I could reach). The only area that has to be done on the inside is right where the frame rail passes under the box(towards the outside from car center in the compartment). It looks like the worst of your problem is OUTSIDE the framel rail. Stitch a piece all the way across it anyway.

Believe it or not... the factory air cleaner on summer setting with a piece of dryer duct on the snorkel is a good solid design. Otherwise you can do this... It involves quite a few parts. ...

I have those MSA blue springs on one of my 240Zs. I used the elcheapo Tokico-Blue cartridges in stock 240Z length. I also have the front and rear swaybar kits from MSA 15 years ago. I love the way they handle together. I was going to put illuminas and coilovers on that car years ago... but I see absolutely no reason to change until I get a bigger engine and LSD rear end. I have trimmed the springs slightly lower after I removed all the bumpers, lightened the battery, and removed all the accessories and emissions hardware. The car weighs 2499 with me(172lbs) in it and 8 gal of gas. It is my current track car and it sees a variety of tracks in the south east. I have no problems with bottoming at Road Atlanta, VIR and 22-degree banked ovals like North Carolina Motor Speeday. It is streetable but rough. I would say that is the stiffest combination I would ever want for a streetable car. VIR with some big dips and whoopies. NCMS Rockingham is a ROUGH track with a high-G bank at 100MPH.

The metal pinch welded flange is a major structural component for the roof. Cutting it off compromises the roof in a rollover.

On the early cars the cables are Z-bent and clamped to the control mechanism with phillips head screws. Remove the clamp and fish the Z-bend through the hole at a 90 degree angle.

My first thought is.... What about roll center changes to the rear strut??? It would be a relatively simple affair to lengthen the lower pin perch.