johnc

[enter seller name here], salutations and greetings. I send you a check for $25,000 American Dollars for your [enter car here] and then you give my partner the difference when he arrives on [enter date here] up to pick up your [enter car here] from you. His name is Mugambi Washington and he is general in exile from the Nigerian Navy. You can trust him forever. Hurry, [enter seller name here] I look forward to quickly reply. Thanks you for your swift and honorably. Keke Roosevelt http://www.419eater.com

No. Only 280Zs factory equipped with catalytic converters. Yes, mostly related to emission controls on the 280Z cars.

And you probably paid more for the this muffler then for a 2.5". Buy Borla.

Actually, the cage on the left holds 1,000 hamsters. Its a Rodenturbo.

Its a scam. The scammer will pay via a PayPal eCheck which gets held by PayPal until it doesn't clear and then you're out the money.

AFAIK... The only clutch pack LSD available for new the R180 and R200 is the OS Giken unit.

XR-1s can be loud and generally need something else to meet noise restrictions.

BTW... we are investigating makes the parts one piece instead of having a welded flange. My original idea was to make one axle and separate flanges for that various CV shafts and halfshafts could be adapted to the STi diff (thinking beyond you 240Z guys.... ) But that idea probably is too complicated and it might end up cheaper just to have a different machining program for each particular adapter.

Rough idea: $500 a pair.

Through design, process, and testing. In any manufactured part there is going to be a weak spot. The factory side axles have the flange fusion welded to the axle the same as the factory stub axles. There are two welds holding the flange onto the axles and both have .063" 60 degree bevels machined into the welded joint. ER70S-2 filler is used and the parts are TIG welded. We did not use ER80 filler because of the post welding carburizing. The additional carbon content of ER80 would have made the surface carbon content at the weld too high after carburizing. We're designing for a 2,500 lb. 240Z making about 275 ft. lbs. of torque running 275 width wheels. Which is almost exactly what the Rusty Old Datsun was back when I ran R180s behind it with Quaife diffs and stock side axles.

This is even cooler!

I just did a 1968 Camaro and I'll post some pics here of how I did the rear 1/4 panel. I went over the top of the upper body seam to make sure the width of the new panel (how far it stuck out from the body) was the same as the other side of the car.

You will have to use both methods because you won't be able to flange every seam. A lot also depends on how original you want the replacement panel to appear. Butt welding and grinding will give a more original appearance when the panel is viewed from inside the car.

The most important parts of a good weld are: 1. Proper fitup - no gaps wider then the width of the fiiller wire. 2. Cleanliness. Use whatever you can to get the parts clean - really clean - and then do a final wipe down with either denatured alcohol as mentioned above or Acetone (which is what I use). And when I mean clean, I mean: No paint No plating No powerdcoating No dirt No oils No oxides (physically clean aluminum with a clean stainless wire brush) No burrs Zinc fumes cause metal fume fever which isn't life threatening but makes the next day suck. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal_fume_fever

From SuperDan:

He's incorrect. I rebuilt and sell complete strut assemblies.