johnc

Rear tires were warm. Seems the fronts weren't.

Delay, delay, delay. Contact the clerk and postpone the trial date as much as possible. With school and work you should be able to come up with some good reasons.

Congratulations! Once day we might see you slinging tires over the pit wall.

She did but her Lil' Scamp Scooter battery ran down her false teeth kept falling out. You probably need to change to a younger service.

You're under the often mistaken assumption that one mount in a roll cage will take all the load. That's never true in a properly designed cage. Input loads are designed to be transferred to other cage mounting points so that no one mount takes all the load. Without that load transfer, pretty much any type of mount will fail regardless of mount design or material thickness.

If you're paying $10 bucks a foot for DOM then you better shave your butt because someone wants to bend you over. Right now 1.75 x .095 wall DOM is around $4.50 a foot if you buy it by the stick. BTW... you don't need .120 wall 1.75 tubing, go with .095 wall.

How to and not cheap even for a prefabbed cage: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/autocrossing-and-roadracing/2400350-pfadt-c6z-build-pictures.html

New is NLA from Nismo or Nissan Motorsports here in the USA. Used are available if you search for a while. The only new CLSD right now for the R180 is the OS Giken Super Lock. If you want a torque biasing LSD check out the OBX thread on this site or shop for a Quaife.

Koni 8610/8611s are not pressurized and the shock cycling/bleeding procedure HowlerMonkey lists above is needed before installation. In some cases you can shake the 8610 and hear the foot valve rattle if there's a lot of air in the shock. FYI... the Koni 8610/8611 depends on the gland nut being tight on the insert for proper operation and to keep the top seal in good condition. If the gland nut gets loose the shock will not operate properly and the top seal will most likely fail. And when I say loose, I don't mean rattly loose; I mean lost torque. Keep the gland nut tight and check it often. Any race shock (Koni, Bilstien, Penske, etc.) is NOT an install and forget part. When I ran the Konis they got pulled and inspected every year along with all the other suspension maintenance that's required between seasons.

Welcome to the staff!

And all this time I thought I lost a $50 somewhere...

I'm not an engine builder so the opinions of Grumpy and BRAAP should carry more weight then anything I say. IMHO... the Zinc issues are mostly related to flat tappet cam engines and are not a problem in OHC engines like our L6.

A fan is basically useless on an engine oil cooler installed in a road race car. If your not moving you're not generating enough BTUs to require oil cooling. Just make sure the cooler gets a lot of airflow at speed. You should not see any appreciable change in oil temps by switching oils although a switch to a lower viscocity oil might see a temp drop from the oil pump having to not work as hard. A 10W-30 synthetic oil would be my choice. If you're seeing 250F going into the cooler you're fine. I prefer Redline synthetic but Mobil 1 is good and handles moisture a bit better then Redline. I wouldn't bother with the Zinc additive.

Drums Pro 1. Lighter then any disc brake setup (12 lbs. 9oz. including backing plates, springs, shoes, wheel cylinders, clips, drums, etc.) 2. Well balanced with stock front discs and calipers. 3. Cheap to maintain. Con 1. Lots of maintenance (mostly adjusting) needed for best results on a race track or at an autocross. 2. Can loose some function if raced in a hard rain.

Where are you measuring the oil temps? If its 250F going into the cooler then you're fine. If its 250F coming out of the cooler then you probably need to increase cooling capacity. Oil changes every other even worked fine for me especially if you're running synthetic oil. You cna also use an oil testing service which will give you a lot of information about the condition of the engine and the oil.

That's also my impression also as an owner of a 2006 350Z. Owners who babied the engines tended to have more oil burning issues then owners who broke the engines in hard. My car spent 3 hours on the track at Cal Speedway after the odometer hit 800 miles and it doesn't burn any oil between oil changes.

That's a common theme for pretty much everyone - me included. More spring, less bar. But more spring and more shock go hand-in-hand so things can get expensive.

IMHO... Braking and the steering/grip slip angle tend to put more heat into the front tires, at least in my experience given the power levels of the cars I've raced and helped develop. But, because the front tires get a lot more cooling air then the rears its sometimes hard to actually see this when taking tire temps in the pits. Its normal to see either balanced or slightly higher rear temps on a 240Z when measuring in the hot pits, especially if you're using a surface IR pyrometer. A probe pyrometer will tend to show more temp in the fronts but you have to take the temps on the track right after the last corner after some easy braking to a complete stop. Also, the type of diff you're using will greatly affect front and rear tire temps. A welded rear diff will increase the tire temps on the outside front and rear tires. A Quaiffe diff will increase the tire temps on the ouside rear tire.

Hell, I ended up selling the Mini-Bike of Death to a blithering idiot for $250 and he let's his kids right the damn thing. Do I feel guilty?

Its not a $35K 280ZX until it sells for that much.

Why not have Koni rebuild the shocks you have. $100 to $150 a corner and you can work with Gordon on valving more appropriate for your specific autocross setup.

I sell 'em. Check the web site below.

A bigger radius bend requires more room and tubing length to complete. The gap between the bend and the corner of the roof will be a bit larger then with a tighter bend. Conversely, a larger radius bend will be a bit stronger then a tighter radius bend. If you're going to make more then just one roll bar or cage and can only afford one die, you'll probably want a tighter radius then 7". I use a 5.5" radius bend with 1.5" tubing and a 6" bend with 1.75" tubing. FYI... Most race sanctioning bodies don't allow bends any tighter then 3 times the tube OD. So the tightest approved bend on 1.75" tubing is 5.25".

Option 3 requires cutting/gutting the door. It does give more room but, depending on how far back the main hoop is from the door jamb, it could be difficult to fabricate. Jon M's thread about building the roll cage in his car goes over this issue in detail.

Don't know what the fuss is all about. Brian just welded two KA24 heads together and lopped off two of the extra cylinders. Isn't that how Nissan made the RB26 head? I thought there a a video on YouTube of Hoji Fukitallup in the Nissan Yokahama plant cutting the extra cylinders off with a Sawzall. I'll look for it. EDIT: Here it is, although Hoji uses a chainsaw, not a sawzall. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LNN-0irjgXo