johnc

Nope. Heavier oil takes a bit longer to get hot but once its hot it will remain hot longer. Experiment with water and spaghetti sauce on your stove.

On the PowerBrute and the Nissan Motorsports CLSDs the only way to change lockup percent is to change the clutch/driven disc ratio. Its also helpful to get the driven discs REM treated. In the 350Z world the Nismo 1.5 Way CLSD is notorious for chatter. A number of folks have adjusted it from 100% lock to 80% by swapping out discs and REM treating. Alternatively do what Jon suggests regarding friction modifier.

Sounds like you need to settle the car. Roll it forward and back about a car length each way and jump on both door sills a few times.

Counting freeze plugs is better then block casting numbers and cheating is a perfect example of the Schrödinger's Cat paradox.

AFAIK, there is only one brand of 4 point harness that is DOT approved and won't have you sliding under the lap belt and smashing your knees into the dash during a wreck. There was a wreck at Streets of Willow two years ago where the passenger was wearing a 4 point eBay harness. She broke both knees and her hip when the driver hit a K rail at 50 mph. http://www.schrothracing.com

Yes.

Actually, not entirely true. Autocross cars will typically see higher transient lateral G loads then cars on a road race track. Because of this its not unusual for autocross cars to bicycle in certain situations. Road race cars will see slightly lower lateral G loads but for a longer duration. Both situations can lead to tire/rim separation but its actually a very rare event in both disciplines. Regarding tire and rim width recommendations. Tire manufacturers "offcially" recommend rim widths based on a DOT regulation/formula. These recommendations are required by federal regulation for street driven vehicles. Both Hoosier and Kumho race support trucks will mount 285/30-18 tires on 8.5" wide wheels at autocross and road race events. Hoosier will mount the same size tire on 8" wide wheels but you better give the tire busters a C-note or your stack will always be "the next one" to get done. You're not getting the most out of the tire and your own testing is needed to prove its worth a little bit of time. FYI... Jason Isley's three time BS champ RX8 runs 245 V710s on his car, not the 285s. His testing (and he's done a lot) shows that the 285 Hoosier on a narrow rim doesn't work for his car and driving style.

I addition to the welds at the bottom of the strut tube where its press fit into the casting, I've seen braze at the top joint of the hub/strut tube connection. I suspect the strut tubes are brazed in place as part of the press fit operation. If you cut the welds and find it still difficult to press out the tube, try heating the hub casting to 900F and then pressing the tube out. Al alternative to pressing the tube out is to machine a weld adapter at the correct angle, cut the tube off the casting, weld in the adapter, and then weld on the tube.

One of the most important things to get right on a S30 is tracking. The rears need to track the fronts as precisely as possible. Offset rear LCA bushings can get that correct but you need to be able to adjust the front and rear of the LCA, not just the rear as most folks do to get toe correct. Remember, you can have perfect toe but the car might still crab. It really depends on your car. If the chassis is straight then using offset bushings in the rear of the LCA will work fine to get toe correct. If the chassis isn't straight, then you need to adjust the LCAs front side-to-side to get things lined up correctly. The Modern Motorsports LCAs let you do that a whole lot easier then offset bushings. I recommend those parts when I know nothing about the car in question. For all I know the car is a tripod.

Here's another: 1971 240Z - 2,012lbs. Ex-GT2 car now running Vintage. 2.4L, tripple webers, dry sump, 4 speed B Box, R180 with LSD, 15 x 7 wheels, 10 point cage, no interior, aluminum dash, fiberglass hood and hatch with Lexan windows all around, fuel cell, aluminum radiator.

I can add another from a customer car: 1974 260Z - 2,150 lbs. SR20DET swap, big turbo, intercooler, oil cooler, aluminum radiator, no interior, no door windows, fiberglass hood, fiberglass bumpers, steel hatch, steel doors, 17" CCW wheels, 5 speed, R180, AZC big brake kit all around, fuel cell. Weight was measured with the car dry (no fuel, oil, coolant).

The best harness installation instructions I've found are from Schroth: http://www.schrothracing.com/docs/Competition_Instructions.pdf That should give you a good idea where the harness bar goes in the main hoop. Keep in mind that the harness bar's primary purpose is to provide a mounting place for your shoulder harnesses. It should be positioned to support that purpose.

http://www.betamotorsports.com

Nice. Looks like he painted the center console with a brush and some Killz white primer.

I think they are within a pound of each other. I weighed them both years ago and the difference was so insignificant that I can't remember...

Its a giant Hula Hoe! http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=-l9o5moR-3k

Depends on the cat. A 1978 vintage cat can be very restrictive due to age and design. A 2008 vintage can has no measurable affect on engine performance. As far as mufflers: Borla.

Well.... there's also the fuel pump, fuel filters, fuel system plumbing, single turbo header, complete exhaust system, ECU software tuning, sensor upgrades, intercooler upgrade, intercooler plumbing, engine wiring harness, fuel pump relays, CAI, and a whole lot more. But, hey, its easy to get 800 whp...

When a big job appears daunting and you can't get started on it, pick one simple task and get that first step done. That leads to another small task and then another and before you know it, momentum has taken over and you're getting a lot of work done. For example: You don't know how to rebuilt an engine, but you can figure out how to remove the oil pan. Do that.

Good guy to talk to about old Porsche's: http://www.bentonperformance.com.

Assuming this isn't a joke... Ignition method has nothing to do with fuel delivery. You can tie the two together using computer control, but you don't need to.

1034s are rear Koni shocks for the 280Z. They are single adjustable and are an obsolete part but you can still find them new on closeout from $125 to $150 each. I would pass on these shocks.

I don't know about "plenty." Between the offset bushings, adjustable rear LCAs, and ovaled strut tower holes you should have about a 1.5 degree range of adjustment for camber on each corner. Using washers on the forward ends of the TC rod mounting you can get a little bit of caster adjustment. And the MM rear LCAs let you adjust rear toe and tracking. Sounds like the rear tracking, toe, and camber need some work. 32 psi cold on a street driven 280Z might be a little high. I ran 25 psi cold on my street driven 240Z running 225/50-15s.

Well... I think you can have a very nice Grand Touring style suspension setup for a lot less then $5,000. What I would recommend: 1. Tokico HTS shocks - they are a step above the Illuminas in both valving and adjustability. ($700) 2. Shortened struts ($500) 3. Stock rubber isolators on top with ovaled mounting holes in the strut tower. 4. Tokico HP springs from the 280Z (linear 185F/200R) cut to the desired ride height ($168) 5. Modern Motorsports rear LCAs (for the easy adjustability) ($595) 6. Stock front LCAs with relocated inner pivot on crossmember and offset poly bushings. ($50) 7. ST 1" front and 3/4" rear ARBs. ($300) 8. Poly bushings all around except for the TC rod and steering coupler. New rubber for those parts. ($200) 9. New Nissan ball joints and tie rod ends ($300). Parts and some labor: $2,500. That leave the rest for R&R, cleanup, etc.

For Hyperco its better to just call and ask. Their techs are very helpful, their web site is less so.