johnc

I guess I did post the Simple Green suggestions. The caution against using Citrus cleaners and Simple Green is generally for discoloration, not damage or etching.

Its possible but not on 91 octane fuel. The power in a NA L6 engine comes from the machining and assembly so you're going to have to be very good at those two to hit the power number. EDIT: I had a 3L built by Sunbelt that made 320 SAE certified horsepower using a lot of expensive stuff. JE Pistons, Carillo rods, Motec M48, custom intake, 65mm TWM TB, N42 block and head, and more.

I don't know what application that shock is for. Here are some general 240Z shock dimensions that can help you figure it out: 1. Travel: 5 to 6" 2. Shock body OD: 1.70" or less. 3. Shock body length: 12" to 14" That still doesn't help with valving.

That's pretty cool. Never thought removing lug nuts could be so dramatic.

I don't know about NHRA tech procedures. For SCCA and NASA we do hit the kill switch if the car is running and it has to shut off immediately. We've also hooked up a meter and checked the cold side of the switch and made sure it went to zero when the switch was thrown, not when the engine finally died.

Now that you've listed your mods, we know your 180mph claim is BS. Keep digging the hole.

You want real carbon fiber, then you have to pay. The real stuff, properly engineered and manufactured, ain't cheap.

This is all IMHO... Using an engine cleaner, ATF, or diesel fuel to clean the internals of an engine is a waste of time and money. It may have been of some use "back in the day" but since then, engine oil cleaning ability has improved by orders of magnitude and, more importantly, gasoline is better refined and has detergent packages that have significantly reduced the dirt that gets into engines. I just pulled the cam covers on the V10 in my 2000 F350 which has 105K miles on it. Its had regular synthetic oil changes (every 5,000 to 7,500 miles) and unleaded regular fuel run through it the entire time. No cleaners, ATF, or diesel fuel ever. The cams and valvetrain looked brand new with no deposits or varnish of any kind.

I hope this is for a drag car...

The kill switch is an emergency shutoff so damaging the alternator shouldn't be a primary concern. You should have a regular ignition shutoff in the car and you should use that exclusively in non-emergency situations. There are kill switches that have internal circuits that keep the alternator from damaging itself.

I don't think I recommended that but its a good idea and a good first step to get the big stuff off. A very mild etching cleaner works great; http://store.weldingdepot.com/cgi/weldingdepot/DF781-4X1-1.html

Until the engine shuts down the alternator will be providing power. The idea is to kill all power to prevent shorts and fire. What you're suggesting is a good idea but you still should kill the alternator output.

The Oly Charger is there again! That's great. It must baffle the French kids to see such a large and loud 30 year old American car. Here's the old girl at the Ring: http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=63nvWVblbHk

Grammar, punctuation ,and spelling please! Read the rules. Also, you're opinion regarding the V8 is very 1970s. A lot has happened in the V8 world since then.

Revised:

Well, I just found out that charging a credit card surcharge is a violation of California Law (California Civil Code Section 1748.1). But the law says I can offer a cash discount. So be it.

I'm pretty sure I'm going to stop accepting credit cards in the near future. Its really not worth the trouble for the infrequent large dollar amount transactions I process and how the transaction processors hold the money for three or four working days.

Do a Google search on "interchange fees" and you'll start getting angry. BTW... I can charge a "convenience fee" of some percent but according to the Visa/MC I have to charge ALL of my customers that fee, regardless of type of payment.

Both PayPal and my Credit Card processer charge a "cross border transaction fee" of 1.5% for any transaction that originates outside of the USA. From the fee seciton on PayPal (for a Business Account): That 3.9% is a premium of 1.5% above my PayPal standard rate of 2.4% (plus $0.30) for transactions under $1,000. And you're correct, PayPal is making an additional 1.5% because you happen to live in a different country then the seller.

You're not wrong, people (including yourself) do business however they see fit. IMHO as long as everything is disclosed, both buyer and seller can make informed decisions.

BTW... I'm curious. What's the difference between paying an extra 3% as a fee verses a product that's 3% more expensive?

Your car will probably be 1 to 1.5" higher then the factory stock ride height. I suggest you send the parts back and get the correct kit (ILK252).

D1CNAR, Please us correct grammar, punctuation, and spelling in your posts on this site. Read up: http://forums.hybridz.org/announcement.php?f=65&a=2

They will fit but the spring rates are stiffer and taller. You'll have to cut the springs and maybe adjust the length of the spacer under the rear shock in the strut.

As a seller of products and services, I post this on my web site and on every estimate. The last paragraph explains why I charge those fees. A potential customer can choose to pay how he or she wishes: Banks and credit card companies have raised a lot of fees to sellers. If your credit card has a rewards program the credit card companies tack on an additional 1 to 1.5% to the seller so that the company can pay for the rewards program. Unfortunately, the seller is purposely kept unaware of that additional charge until the monthly statement comes from the credit card processor. Its no uncommon for a seller to pay close to 5% of the sale of something to the credit card companies. IMHO, if you want the pay with the convenience of a credit card, you should be willing to pay some of those additional fees. Again, IMHO, its unfair for me the seller to charge cash and check customers an additional undisclosed fee. That's just plain lying.