johnc

From what I've heard the factory LSD in the 350z (to quote one person racing the car): "Is poo-poo! She no good and spin one wheel like bad girlie!"

I was just laughing at the funny English. Don't get me started on the spring rates...

http://cgi.ebay.ca/Racing-Dual-Coil-over-Coilover-DATSUN-240Z-260Z-280Z_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33586QQitemZ8014559397QQrdZ1 And the best part of the ad:

Putting fender welting between the flares and the body makes the fit 1,000% better.

If you plan to do any mods to the car, buy the base model - its the lightest and gives a good platform to make the car into what you want.

Sorry, my mistake. Buy another crank... Just chase the holes with a tap, buy the correct bolts, and if you can get them torqued to spec you should be fine. Might also use some blue Loctite. If you can't get them torqued, then you'll need to drill the hole(s) out and install an insert.

Yeah, but there's the coolness factor that SUs bring. Its especially cool after beating a 911 on the track and having the Porsche owner come over and ask to look under your hood. Two SUs make them shake their heads every time. Two SUs under the stock orange air box make them just walk away.

If you can torque all of them to spec, you should be fine. Personally, I would buy another flywheel.

I'm going to close this thread now. 93TA, you are asking very basic questions that require some research on your part. Again, use the search function on this site and spend some time checking out other Z related sites.

Spend a lot of your time using the search function on this site.

I hadn't figured out the width issue. I was "told" by someone that the 280Z chassis was wider but I have never measured one. Thinking back, I should have measured Ken Jones' 280Z while I was out in Florida. EDIT: I don't know for sure if an R180 swap into a 280Z that originally had a R200 is legal or not. Most likely it isn't, but I don't think your fellow regional ITS competitors will care.

BTW... the good ZTherapy SUs are illegal for ITS because of the bushing replacement with a bearing. They can build them with stock bushings.

SUs modified for racing is/are not rocket science. Go with the vendor you feel most comfortable with after spending some time on the phone.

They do come off and balancers do self-destruct. Proper torque and chemical locking are important. If you install a new crank bolt, re-check the torque after a few hours of engine running.

B1AB then B74A.

Drill a hole in the bottom of the strut tube, fill it with penetrating oil, wait a couple days, and then hit the insert with with an air hammer through the hole. Hasn't failed me yet and I've disassembled about 40 strut assemblies. But playing tug-o-war with trucks is more fun. Hopefilly the Chevy didn't lose a grill or the Ford didn't end up with a dented tailgate.

If I was building an ITS 280Z I would try both diffs. You have a minimum weight of 2,730 with driver and the closer you can get to that weight, the better. Most likely you'll be underweight so the extra 35lbs from the R200 won't be a big disadvantage because of where it is in the car. Plus, its easy to find a 3.90 geared R200. The disadvantage is the that the cost of the R200 LSD units are a bit more then for the R180. Also, be careful and check for halfshaft bottoming on the driver's side of the car when running the R200: http://www.betamotorsports.com/benchracing/R200handling.html

Bondio Fabrication in Torrance, CA can weld Ti like that. Andy did a complete Ti header/exhaust for a customer's Porsche last year. $25,000 and it was beautiful. Andy has also done welding for Chip Foose.

Didn't fool me... I was expecting to read a line like: "I closed my eyes, “boom!!!” a shot rang out, I slowly opened my eyes to see a gray dust ball in front of me, the cat was nose down in the soft sand and slowly rolled to it’s side. Then there was a knocking on the door and I heard my wife's voice ask, "Dan, are you going to be sitting on the toilet all day?" Great story!

E36 325is. And in 2006 E46 cars are coming.

Its really hard to diagnose these problems over the Internet, but here are some things to look at: 1. Check for binding in your driveline, particularly in your halfshafts. 2. Check your differential mounts. 3. Check for binding in rear suspension travel. Take the springs off and then use a jack to move each trailing arm through its range of travel. 4. Check the rear anti-roll bar (if you have one) to make sure its not binding or preloaded. 5. Check your shocks to make sure one isn't blown.

What do you mean by "hop?" Does the suspension oscillate up and down? How quickly? Does the "hop" frequency change if the turn is sharper or more gradual? Do bumps have an affect on the "hop?" Does it "hop" in a corner under acceleration, braking, coasting, or all three? Does it make any sounds while "hopping?"

You left your Ruger at home... This is the little friend I carried in the woods for years. http://www.ruger.com/Firearms/FAProdView?model=807&return=Y I never had to use it in anger and I would probably have only got one shot off, but it is accurate as hell and my plan was to just wait until the angry critter got real close.

Any hose or line that has fluid moving through it is under pressure. When designing, replacing, or modifying a fuel return line you have to assume that it might have as much pressure as the feed line.

From Cheech himself: