johnc

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mechanics http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermodynamics You guys are confused because an engine/turbo SYSTEM combines both mechanics and thermodynamics. Evaluating the system from only one of these paradigms is incomplete.

Armageddon! Armageddon! For those that don't get the reference, I can e-mail you the old, sick, funny story. If I post it here, it wil get deleted.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermodynamics

There are two advantages to a stud over a bolt: 1. The stud threads themselves are finger tight in the female threads with the nut threaded over the stud. Less turning force is required to overcome thread friction (because fewer numbers of threads are being turned on) so its easier to achieve the desired level of residual stress in the fastener combination. 2. Residual stress in the fastener combination is more evenly distributed throughout so the fastener is more efficiently installed. A torque number on a torque wrench measures resistance to turning. The fastener industry generally agrees that about 50% of the torque number come from the friction between the nut/bolt head and the mating surface, 40% from thread friction, and 10% from actual stress induced in the bolt/stud. From the above its easy to deduce that most important factor affecting proper fastening is thread condition. Undamaged, clean, and properly lubricated threads are far more important then the choice of a proper strenght bolt vs. a proper strength stud. ARP has developed a special moly based thread lubricant to specifically address this issue and to ensure consistency in torque readings.

I will tell myself that next time I'm on my back in a 240Z, welding overhead, working the amptrol with my knees, my arms at full length, and cussing at my Speedglas helmet because it keeps switching as my hands block the arc. And some people wonder why I charge $60 an hour to TIG weld a roll cage...

Also, the Koni 8611 shock to use is the 8611-1259RACE. The dimensions are: Stroke: 6.02" Max Length: 21.26" Min Length: 15.24" Body Length: 13.07" Body OD: 1.71" Dimensionally its exactly the same as the 8610-1437RACE and the old 8610-1149. They will also work with the OEM gland nut.

Also, the Koni 8611 shock to use is the 8611-1259RACE. The dimensions are: Stroke: 6.02" Max Length: 21.26" Min Length: 15.24" Body Length: 13.07" Body OD: 1.71" Dimensionally its exactly the same as the 8610-1437RACE and the old 8610-1149. They will also work with the OEM gland nut.

Ben, A nice reminder, please read this: http://forums.hybridz.org/announcement.php?f=59&announcementid=2 The search function is a great thing.

336 cubic foot tank is $38.00 to refill with 100% Argon at Lehner/Martin.

Easy solutions to each: Get it nice and hot and then ask him to grad hold and give it a good hard pull to test the strength. Most people forget that aluminum doesn't "glow" when hot. Make one that looks like a boiler intake screen from the USS Missouri. Paint it battleship grey. Drink all the beer first before fixing their exhaust. Throw up on their exhaust pipe when you're done.

Typically rear LCAs under acceleration try to toe-in and many passive rear steer cars encourage this through bushing compliance. The revere happens under braking and the passive rear steer cars discourage this through either bushing design or control links. Add lateral loads to the LCA and you get a twist. The driver's side LCA under acceleration in a right turn will twist counter-clockwise (viewed from the driver's side of the car) and the passenger side LCA under acceleration in a left turn will twist clockwise (viewed from the passenger side of the car). The reverse (to a much lesser degree) occurs under trail braking.

Search.

The upper spring perch bottoms on the top of the strut (normally this is also the top of the insert.) Spacing the insert down just reduces droop travel and will most likely cause to car to lift an inside wheel in a corner at precisely the wrong time. A long slide will be the first clue that this wasn't a good idea.

All my torches have a flexible neck. Very handy. Also, a straight (pencil) neck torch has come in very handy on a few occaisions. I did buy a remote, torch handle mounted amptrol and that proved to be a complete waste of money.

Spelling problems... You can use your existing tank just add a split after the regualtor and use bronze wool to seal the tubing ends. BTW... purging behind stainless and aluminum is important and its also important for 4130. Much less important for mild steel.

From "Mr. TIG" (http://www.tigdepot.com):

OK, I feel better. I was wondering how I missed something that significant. Thanks.

OK, I feel better. I was wondering how I missed something that significant. Thanks.

There's also that rust thing... Get it. It is SO much easier to buy and sell a 24' enclosed trailer because it opens you up to the whole drag race/muscle car market. Plus that extra 4' is very valuable. Some other thoughs: Torsion axles are better then leaf springs. Electric brakes are better then hydralic brakes. 4 wheels brakes are better the 2 wheel brakes. Weight distributing hitch is better then dead weight hitch. Sway control is better then no sway control. 6 ties downs are better then 4. Square tube frame and crossmembers are better then C-channel or I-beam.

I would like to hear how the 1437RACE works on the track. The dyno charts us west coast guys have seen show a doubling of compression (to over 200) but others have said that Koni executives refute this. I've sold a few sets of 8611s to customers. The compression adjuster is at the bottom of the shock so you need to machine a couple spacers to keep from crushing it. Drilling a hole in the bottom of the rear strut tubes makes it easy to get at the comp adjuster. Doing the same on the front tube just makes it easier to get at once the strut is unbolted from the steering arm.

I would like to hear how the 1437RACE works on the track. The dyno charts us west coast guys have seen show a doubling of compression (to over 200) but others have said that Koni executives refute this. I've sold a few sets of 8611s to customers. The compression adjuster is at the bottom of the shock so you need to machine a couple spacers to keep from crushing it. Drilling a hole in the bottom of the rear strut tubes makes it easy to get at the comp adjuster. Doing the same on the front tube just makes it easier to get at once the strut is unbolted from the steering arm.

Bathroom scale between a floor jack and the LCA. Remove the spring and anti-roll bar and jack the LCA up through its range of travel. I basically record the poundage on the scale after every pump of the jack handle and try to note any big spikes/peaks while I'm pushing the jack handle down. Not too scientific and you have to be consistent with how hard and fast you push on the jack handle, but it worked for me. It doesn't take into account any spring affects, but unless you're going to use the Hyperco hydraulic lower spinrg perch there's not much you can do about that. Regarding anti-dive/squat in the suspension - I don't know enough about it so I try to eliminate it (or not add it). I might be missing something that can help but there's only so much my little brain can handle when trying to tune a suspension. BTW... I tried to do a test with the springs and ARB installed and the car ratcheted down to my lift. Scared myself so I don't do that anymore.

Just built a TIG welded 3" race exhaust on a vintage racing 240Z. Labor alone was $600. Borla muffler, optional straight pipe, mandrel bends, Y-pipe, reducers, stainless T-bolt clamps, hangers, etc. put the total over $1,000. You get what you pay for guys.

That valve assembly under master cylinder is called a Brake Line Pressure Differential Warning Switch. Its there to warn the dirver via a dash warning light when the brake pressure difference between the front and rear brakes exceeds about 200psi. It is just a warning switch and does not affect brake balance.

Personally, I would avoid TC rods that shorten the arc. If used in conjunction with a poly LCA bushing the front suspension will bind easily and you put a lot of stress on the shock shaft.