johnc

You can't compare chassis and engine dyno numbers even to compute drivetrain losses. And my 240Z would be a bad example of the breed. I've done a lot to reduce drivetrain loss including a Quaife sequential dog box with straight cut gears.

The Kumho Ecsta (Escta) V700 is a bad tire. A friend who races a Z in ITS tried a set and basically threw them away after his first session. Once they got hot they had no traction. I also know a couple autocrossers who did that same with a free set of the Ecstas. The Victoracer V700 is a good tire and you get a lot for the money.

If you're just starting out, it really doesn't matter what tires you run. Buy a set of Kumho V700s in 225/50-15 and keep them full tread. Mount them on some 15 x 7 rims and go out and drive.

Rear axle bearing lock nut -25 to 33 kg-nm (181 to 239 ft. lb.)

The best is the Synchromaster and most VW performance shops sell them.

3L NA engine Engine dyno 305hp @ 6,600 257 ft. lbs @ 5,600 Chassis dyno 279hp @ 6,700 234 ft. lbs @ 5,700

Wasp-Major R4360-53. If you've ever been to the Reno Air Races, you've heard it and felt it in your chest.

You really can't compare .g numbers without knowing the diameter of the skidpad, surface conditions (dry, wet, dusty surface, etc.), and other variables. Also, .g numbers are just a measurement of absolute grip in a very artificial situation. They really don't tell how well a car gets around corners.

Nope. All we are talking about is the throttle plate in these comparisons. Fuel metering has nothing to do with it.

Spoken like a true engine builder... You're forgeting about weight, packaging issues, chassis, etc. that have an ever larger affect on how fast you can actually go and whether or not you can brake for the turn up ahead and get the car around it. You can't discount "rules" from these discussions. Rules are everywhere and are enforced by government (EPA, DOT) and sanctioning bodies (SCTA, SCCA, FIA). Engines and vehicles are not built in a vacume and as someone who's built a few I'm sure you've been "constrained" from building you're ideal 555cid engine many, many times. And if you put a turbo on that 3 liter and ran it on something other then gasoline you'll probably get pretty close to the power of your 555. Remember, Renault was making 1,200 hp out of 1.5L Formula 1 turbo engines in the early 1980s - on gasoline.

This is really a pointless discussion. An intake manifold with one throttle body draws air into a plenum which then distributes air to 6 individual ram tubes. An intake manifold with 6 individual throttle bodies normally draws air through a cold air box. That cold air box has one opening and plenum to distribute air to 6 individual ram tubes. Even if the individual throttle body setup is running open stacks its still drawing air from the engine compartment which would induce imbalance due to flow and heat isses within the confined space. Ultimately, both setups are exactly the same (both intakes are necked down to the size of the intake port in the head) except one installation has 1 throttle body and the other has 6. What we should be discussing is the length of the ram tubes.

Jonas, In the spirit of the original founding of HybridZ - go for it! I'm sure no one here says it can't be done. What we're all saying is that it will be frickin' hard, take a lot of time and money, frustrating as hell sometimes, and well worth it when you get the time sheet.

Ya know guys, what we're talking about here is: Software. An arguement can easily be made that well established software intellectual property rights cover the computer software, diagnostic codes, etc. that the manufacturers created. Here's an even worse scenario that maybe the bill's authors didn't envision: 1. The bill passes and is signed into law. 2. The manufactures sue and eventually win on an intellectual property arguement. 3. Now the manufacturers have a legal precedent codifying their rights to keep secret all aspects of their software. 4. The EPA/DOT have to back off on their code sharing arrangement under OBD3. Guess what, things are worse then before the bill. Careful what ya'll wish for...

Its pretty funny to compare the weight of a crappy titanium header with a well made 321 or 347 stainless steel header. A few months ago I was at a shop that had a DC Sports titanium header (Grade 2 commercial titanium) for a B18 Honda engine. I put it on their shipping scale - 27 lbs. A little while later I was at Bondio's shop and weighed his complete set of 347 stainless 180 headers for a Jaguar TransAm car - 24 lbs.

I purchase 112 octane Sunoco GT Supreme Leaded (the blue stuff) for $5.09 per gallon for a 54 gallon drum from KRS Distributing in Stanton, CA.

Guys, WARNING: This thread is starting to get personal. Let's focus on the topic, not each poster's motives.

Aviation engines are designed to run at constant rpm and high load. The fuel additive packages are deisgned to work with an engine that runs at a constant temperature in a very clean environment. Usually that means fewer detergents. Automotive engines are designed to run at varying rpms, low load, and spend a good deal of time at idle. The fuel additive packages are designed to work with an engine that runs at varying temperatures and in a very dirty environment. Usually that means more detergents.

The current fastest early Z in the country is a 260Z 2+2 that holds a number of F-Gas records at 170+ mph. This took about 340hp to achieve and he used a G-nose, moon disks, special 3.08 rear gears, etc. and 3 miles at Bonneville. Its not about horsepower when you get above 150mph. Its all about aerodynamics. Putting 700hp down on the salt is very difficult and its easy to get rear wheel spin at 200mph with that kind of power. Given enough time and money you can probably do it. But the budget you list: is probably half what the current LSR record holder has spent over the last 8 years to go 170mph. He also regulary out runs a number of Chevy powered early Zs that are making double the horsepower his little L6 puts out. Good luck!

I just go off the phone with a friend who has been a BMW tech with a dealership for 15 years. He does agree that information about specific problems and fixes for recent model vehicles can be hard to come by if you're not a BMW dealer. It is available on the Web but its not easy to find. BTW... In some cases the problems and fixes are so new that he has trouble getting information from BMW - the new 7 series is a prime example. But, he completely disagrees about the tool issue. He has to purchase his tools from BMW just like any other mechanic. He's offered discounts and special financing through BMW but he can get similar deals through Snap-On and other tool distributors.

Schely Products http://www.sptool.com I do a lot of production welding for them. The tool aftermarket probably has alternatives for most any of the specialty tools required by manufacturers. Most of those tools are as close as your Snap-On, Mac, or Cornwell truck. I think this bill is an answer to a problem that doesn't really exist.

I run Outlaw 2800 4 piston calipers front and rear with Hawk Black pads, Tilton master cylinders, prop valve, and balance bar, the above mentioned rotor in front, a solid Brembo rotor in the rear, and Hoosier 275/45-16 R3S03 DOT-R tires. I've never had a brake fade or braking problem and I can lock up all 4 tires at speed at will. I have raced at the following tracks in temperatures over 100 degrees: Buttonwillow (lots of configs) Streets of Willow Willow Springs Las Vegas Spring Mountain Thunderhill Its all about creating a balanced brake setup and getting air to the rotors. Bigger IS NOT BETTER when it comes to brakes, but people refuse to believe that.

Coleman: http://www.colemanracing.com/ H81-1150-8 - Vented heavy duty 11.5" diameter, .810 thick with 8 mounting holes for $65.35. I run the exact same rotor except in 11" diameter on the front of my 240Z.

First, use capitalization and punctuation in your posts here on HybridZ. Please read the FAQ and Rules 'cuz its very clear about this. Second, use the Search function extensively before spending any money and posting. This will save you money and us time becuase you won't be buying parts that are incorrect for a street car and you won't be asking questions that have already been answered. As for your question: those spring rates are about right for a track car that has a 10 point cage. They are much too stiff for a street car and the only "off the shelf" shock that can handle those rates and fit in a Z strut tube are Koni 8610s. Jay at Ground Control was mistaken when he said that the Tokico Illuminas can control those spring rates. The Tokico does not have enough rebound to handle spring rates at 300 or above. You'll have to sell or return those springs and look at something in the 175 to 200 lb. in. range for a street car.

Anti-ackermann is generally referred to as Reverse Ackermann here in the US.

I've got a completely rebuilt 3.90 LSD R190 diff for $950.00. I could easily sell it to at least two racers I know for $800 right now. Even after I run it in the 810 on the street for a couple years I can sell it for that same price. So, its not a money maker but its not as bad as it sounds.