johnc

I wouldn't buy that kit myself. I would be uncomfortable with progressives on one end of the car and linear on the other. It would be very difficult to tune the suspension because the behavior would be unpredictable. Run progressives or linear all the way around, don't mix and match.

Demon has a set of CCW 17 x 9 fronts and 17 x 10s rear but his ZG flares are not installed yet. I have 16 x 10 Kodiaks on my car with ZG flares. Do a search for posts by me 'cuz I've put a bunch of photos of my ZG flare setup on this board. Not true.

ARP has a good reputation for producing quality fasteners. A lot of their stuff is beyond the old SAE Grade 8 standard of 150Ksi tensile. FYI... SAE is now using a new standard (J429) which re-arranges the grade number to more closely match the metric standard. Be aware of the change because the new SAE Grade 8 is equivilant to the old SAE Grade 5 and the current Metric Grade 8.8. Its better to source fasteners by their tensile strength. The new grading scales are: Metric 4.6 - SAE J429 Grade 4 or 5 - Old SAE Grade 1 - ASTM 1 A306. Metric 4.8 - SAE J429 Grade 4 or 5 - Old SAE Grade 2 . Metric 5.8 - SAE J429 Grade 5 - Old SAE Grade 2. Metric 8.8 - SAE J429 Grade 8 - Old SAE Grade 5 - ASTM A325, A449. Metric 9.8 - SAE J429 Grade 9 - Old SAE Grade 5+ - ASTM A193. Metric 10.9 - SAE J429 Grade 10 or 12 - Old SAE Grade 8 - ASTM A490, A354. Metric 12.9 - SAE J429 Grade 10 or 12 - Old SAE Grade N/A -ASTM A540. Other sources for quality fasteners are SPS, Wurth, and Fabory. When it comes to fasteners, unless you're buying in bulk you're getting exactly what you're paying for. A cheaper fastener is of lower quality and there's a lot more to fastener quality then strength.

Amir's taken all the pictures so far. I'm waiting until it comes back from the body shop all nicely painted before I take mine. I've still got to install a fuel cell.

Stop! Let's go back to the original thread topic that Art started. If not, the thread's going to be locked and gone.

My worst wet weather experience in my 240Z was driving back from an autocross, at night, in the rain, on a set of well worn Yoko A008RS2s. The Z had a 30amp early 1970s alternator so I could run headlights or wipers (but not both), the car had an 8lb modified Tilton aluminum flywheel, a welded 3.54 rear, the front had 3/8" toe out, and I had left the Tokico Illuminas at 5 on the rear and 4 on the front. About 15 minutes into the drive I gave up being scared and decided to enjoy the adventure. By the end of the 1.5 hour drive I could keep the car at a 15 to 30 degree angle to my direction of travel on the freeway for 2 or 3 minutes at a time. Just like driving on a dirt oval.

Your 240Z is lowered to the point that the diff is 2" off the ground?

Sheet Metal Handbook by Ron and Sue Fournier. Published by HP Books. You can buy it here: http://www.ustool.com along with all the tools and supplies you'll need.

You mean you've re-used it a couple times?

I just finished building the motor and trans mounts and installing a SR20DET in Amir's (demon) 260Z. It appears to sit back a bit more then the one pictured above. I was able to get the pan behind and below the front crossmember after notching the rear crossmember flange.

Check your front wheel bearings.

Don't remember the distance from the pulley to the rad, but the max width between the frame rails varies from 25" to 26" depending on how straight things are.

Educate yourself: http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0879380713/104-9431438-3196753

gramercyjam might be on to something. Check front and rear toe. If the shop can do it, also check rear caster.

The biggest factor in wet weather handling is - your right foot. Assuming that's under control, the next biggest factor is tires. After that comes shocks (less compresison damping is better), anti-roll bars (softer is better), and springs (softer is better).

Take everything from underneath an E36 chassis BMW M3 and make it fit/work under a 240Z.

No differences in VIN numbers for the various year 240Zs. http://www.zhome.com.

My rates can't be compared to anyone elses... that sounds a little funny. I have digressive pistons in the Penskes on my 240Z and none of the shocks mentioned so far offer that type of rebound curve. And, at the moment, I don't even know what the digressive rates are because Erik lost the printouts from the shock dyno. Here's the current settings if anyone wants to get more confused: Front Rebound - 4 off full hard High Speed Compression - 8 off full soft Low Speed Compression - 8 off full hard Pressure - 225 psi Rear Rebound - 2 off full hard High Speed Compression - 6 off full soft Low Speed Compression - 8 off full hard Pressure - 175 psi These setting will change at the next event (they always do!)

My perspective is from racing. Nissan OEM ball joints will last a few seasons if the boots are not torn and you don't over grease them. All others I've tried last one to maybe one and a half seasons at best. That includes MOOG. I think I paid about $85 each for the Nissan ball joints but its been about 3 years.

You should be able to get the boots but you'll have to find a smart parts guy or call Motorsports Auto. I suggest that you only buy Nissan OEM ball joints when it comes time to relace yours. I have yet to find any others that last as long or are as well made.

The hood scoop on the previous generation Vipers (GTS Coupes) didn't work. Most of the fast Viper racers (Mumford, Schley, McCann, etc.) blocked the scoop off.

Hiroshima was in the 100 kiloton range if memory serves me. As I understand it, the practical limit for a fusion weapon is about 100 megatons. The US and particularly the Russians have detonated larger devices but the yield drops off exponentially because the weight of the atmosphere above the explosion has a large tamping effect. I've also heard that the large "city killing" weapons are being phased out now that the GPS system is available. And always remember, nuclear weapons have saved millions of lives.

Mt. Pinatubo in the Phillipeans put more "stuff" into the atmosphere then the most pessimistic estimate of the detonation of all the world's nuclear weapons. And most people forget that there have been over 250 nuclear weapons detonated on, under, and above this planet since 1945.

That was an amazingly biased article. They only preached gloom, doom, and fear. Sounds remarkably like the Global Warming predictions we keep hearing. This guy sounds like the lab coated scientist in a really bad 1950s sci-fi movie. I guess since Nuclear Winter has been proven false the Chicken Littles have to come up with some other life destroying scenario - Volcanic Winter! As Elmer Fudd once said, "Be afwaid, be vewy, vewy, afwaid!"

Pete Paraska, Owen, Mike Kelly, or any of the others who started this site.