johnc

Velcro.

Backfiring out the intake is normally due to a lean mixture. Check all the electrical connections that are part of the fuel injection system (air & water temp sensors, AFM, injectors, ECU, thermotime switch, etc.) As said above, check the dist. cap, rotor, plug wires, etc. and then set the timing.

Alternators will normally show up to 16 volts when charging.

THe trick is that you have to maintain that 400 degree temperature for an extended period. Heating it to 400 and then bolting it on a block will have the head around 200 by the time the last head bolt is torqued.

Sorry Mat (and progeny.) Those Nissan dealers are really stupid and mean!

The Altima is interesting but I've dealt with 4 Nissan dealers here in SoCal over the years and ALL are flaming assholes. Unfortunately, that's kept me away from new Nissan products since 1986. If you have a good Nissan dealer nearby then, by all means, check it out.

He lost because: 1. Bad clutch 2. Had his A/C on. 3. Water pump is bad. 4. Bad plug. 5. The car needs a tune up. 6. Had the T-Tops on. 7. The CL is spraying. Or, maybe he just got his ass kicked twice by a better driver and a faster car...

If you're looking at an automatic, then buy the Accord. If you want a stick, the Mazda 6 has one with the V6 in a 4 door. I've driven both and I think the Accord is better handling and faster, even though the Mazda sounds and feels faster. Honda just has a way of making cars that are extremely competent feel very supple and ordinary.

Here's some info: http://www.gordon-glasgow.org/lsd1.asp Drain the fluid and inspect it for metal debris. If you don't see any them maybe you just need to reduce the breakaway torque. The standard number is 45 ft. lbs.

Don't use PVC for air piping! It will fail at 160 psi brand new and at lower psi as it ages. Black pipe (clean the inside before installation) and copper pipe work well and meet most building codes.

Well... More then likely you'll see understeer at the limit unless there are problems getting the rear tires hot. That 315/35-17 tire is a common front size for a racing Viper. Its a heavy wheel and tire combination (40 lbs total with Hoosier R3S02 and 50 lbs total with Michelin Pilots) for a 240Z so you better run springs at least 200 lb. in. in the rear with some Tokico Illuminas. This will force you to run the same shock up front and spring rates around 150 to 175.

If you've got the money, Ingersol-Rand are the ones to buy. Wire for 240V 3 phase and you'll have a compressor that will run forever.

Actually, the Batmobile would win because its a real car. 1965 Pontiac Le Mans with a 389 two barrel engine and a Powerglide two speed automatic.

Here's plenty of information about the Nissan LSD: http://www.gordon-glasgow.org/lsd1.asp As long as you can get the part number, contact Nissan Comp and you should be able to order it. I don't have the phone number handy but maybe someone else can post it.

The nice vs. rice question is usually answered by weight. 20lbs or less, nice. Over 20lbs, bling bling!

As TomahawkZ says, a lot of the Z tuner stuff has faded, but its still out there in custom form. Most of the guys who built early stuff will still do it, but it will take more time and cost more money. You're just not going to find early Z stuff on web sites, in the Summit catalog, etc. The critical mass has long since disappeared to make marketing specificly to early Zs cost effective. You find the early Z performance parts via word of mouth and enthusiast sites like this one. Spend time talking to the vendors recommended.

To weld us a diff (any diff) you open it up and weld the spider gears together (plus a couple other things I thkn). This stops the differential action and gives you a solid axle.

If its an R180 with a 115mm ID ring gear and a 3.90, I would like to buy it.

If you really want the best call Erik at EMI Racing (714) 713-9096. Penske Triple 8760s and 2.25" springs (steel or titanium.)

You boys are forgetting about fuel metering. Air horns reduce turbulence at the needle and jet giving a more consistent pressure drop. Using a strobe on an engine dyno I've seen how fuel kind of puffs out without air horns and becomes more of a flow with air horns.

> I was wondering if I could construct a cage > that was completely integral with the body; > for instance, the main hoops would actually > be completely welded to the pillars, the > roof, the firewall, and the frame rails. If you're intent is to build this kind of structure for a street car, then it can be done but it will be very expensive and take a lot of time. If you're intent is to also put this car in a sanctioned race, buy the rule book first. There are limits to the number of bends on the main and front hoops and there are limits to the number of points the cage can attach to the body.

Here's some information and pictures about the Nissan clutch pack LSD. I don't have any photos of the Viscous one. http://www.gordon-glasgow.org/lsd1.asp

An R180 with ANY kind of 4 pinion LSD can handle 300 ft. lbs. of torque (unless you're a drag racer) and its lighter, smaller, and cheaper then a comparable LSD R200.

> turn one halfshaft. if the opposing side > halfshaft spins in the same direction you > turned yours, it's limited slip Not true. Often an open diff will do this just from age and old diff fluid. Also, a welded diff will exibit this same trait. Conversly, a worn out LSD may show the halfshafts turning in opposite directions. As I've said thousands of times - TAKE THE COVER OFF AND LOOK INSIDE!

What's wrong with a 4 speed? Dirt cheap to rebuild (under $250), strong, and light. They also work well with a 3.54 gear.