johnc

Buy a nice tubing bender and double flare set and make your own. You can use the nosed metric fittings if you can get at least 3 complete turns into the appropriate fittings.

A housing rebuild for an R180 (new bearings, seals, etc.) is about $300 including parts. A clutch pack LSD will cost about $400 to get rebuilt, but this is a guess on my part. All prices include parts and labor. I've had Unitrax do all my diffs and I'm very happy with their work: http://www.gearedbyunitrax.com

If you're running rear drums, leave both on. The prop valve in the distribution block under the master cylinder uses front brake pressure to control the pressure sent to the rear. FYI... some of the dist blocks under the master cylinder have prop valves and some don't. I don't know when the change occurred so I just tend to leave that thing alone.

I guess they would have to have some specific Z or Nissan marking to give them a value beyond the $1 to $2 a set of regular mag lug nuts cost. I really don't know what their worth would be.

I expect the dash is not just a layup. I'm betting the thing has to be bagged (vacume formed).

Unless they are brand new, never used then they are just another set of used (probably not to be trusted) lug nuts.

You try it first... I'd be scared to.

The stock braking system on an early Z is not the limiting factor in braking distances. The biggest limiting factor is tires. From pretty much any speed you can lock all 4 wheels on a Z if you press hard enough on the brakes. And that's even true with super sticky 225 Hoosier R3S03s.

The price is reasonable for a true CF part (non-structural). We sell splitters and wings for Vipers, NSXs, etc. for $2,500 to $5,000.

Some people should just stay at the buffet table.

The price is too high unless the LSD itself has been completely rebuilt. The seller mentions that some parts are included (bearings, etc.) but there's no mention of the clutches for the LSD and other related diff parts. The practical difference between an R180 with an LSD and an R190 with an LSD is nill.

Look at what the racers use: aluminum.

An L6 crank (regular or stroker) will have a lot of torsional oscillation as a result of the power pulses occurring every 120 degrees of crankshaft rotation. A greater impact on the torsional stresses is how the torque is delivered as opposed to crank throw length. A high compression normally aspirated (HCNA) engine will deliver peak cylinder pressures sooner than a turbo or supercharged engine of equal power. The HCNA produces a greater stress on the crank because more of the torque is applied when the rod is more vertical - typically between 10 and 12 degrees ATDC. Its kind of the difference between slapping your wife's butt and giving it a nice hard rub. Both induce oscillations but one gets you a smile and another gets you frown (unless she was prepped correctly)...

> So what exactly is the point of sectioning the > strut if you don't gain anymore suspension > travel? You do gain more bump travel (from 1 to 1.5").

> i have heard rumors that a diesel crank will > break if spun more than 7000 rpm. Not true unless there's a balance problem. Its a forged crank with a slightly longer stroke and weight is about the same as the regular crank. BTW... I forgot to say, "Congratulations" to Jeff. 450+ horsepower is quite an accomplishment for an L6.

BTW... most R180s have a two spider gear diff. If you install any type of LSD you'll upgrade that to a 4 spider gear and really increase the unit's strength. There are also some 4 spider gear R180 open diffs around.

There is a lot of information covering coil overs on this site. Use the search function and search on "coil overs", "coilovers", "coil-overs", etc.

I don't think an early Z can have a 3" ride height and still any suspension travel left. Most track early Zs that aren't limited to the ITS mandated 5" ride height run about 4 to 4.5". Any lower and you just cannot get much bump travel not matter how much you section the struts. My 240Z has completely custom built Penske 8760 shock/struts with custom length shock shafts and my ride height will be between 4 and 4.5".

Latest issue of Circle Track Magazine has a 5 page article about crankshaft harmonics and balancers. One point made is that a properly designed balancer actually frees up torque that's normally lost via negative throw deflection. In a tested 540hp Chevy V8 that worked out to 35-40 ft. lbs. in an otherwise balanced reciprocating assembly.

The reason struts are sectioned is to get back some of the bump travel that's lost when a Z is lowered a lot. As the 'hawk said you'll be lowering the car 4" which, with the stock length struts, will leave you with about 1/2" of bump travel before hitting the bump stops. That's not enough for track use and is absolutely not enough for the street. Sectioning the strut 1.5" will get you about 1 to 1.25" more bump travel. You'll have to use either the MR2 or VW Rabbit sized shocks up front (with spacers) and the 240Z front shocks in the rear. IMHO... coil over kits and sectioned struts are really a track only modification (and I know a number of folks here disagree). For a street car I would run 1" lowering springs, offset control arm bushings, and maybe slot the strut towers if I needed more camber.

Latest issue has a good article about crankshaft harmonics and windage.

> The one drawback is that it will contaminate > your O2 (if you use one) but with a mix like > that it will take a while. FYI... Per my engine builder, 99% of the Lamba sensor contamination occurs at idle. Leaning out the idle as much as possible will reduce sensor contamination. For my engine I'm running two 4 wire Lambda sensors and using VP Racing's leaded C12 fuel. I can expect about 50 hours of life out of the sensors before they have to be replaced.

My BSP prepared 1970 240Z was 2,260 lbs the last time I corner weighed it. That's with racing seats, full interior and dash, roll bar, full sheet metal body, light racing wheels and tires, header, lightweight stainless exhaust, and 1/4 tank of gas. Fore/aft balance was 50.5% front, 49.5% rear and cross weights were dead on at 50% with me in the driver's seat. FYI... the 2260 total weight was without driver.

Drop a dime.

Unless the seller can show you receipts or part numbers to prove that the transmission is a Nissan Comp unit, I would be skeptical. Look for these numbers: 32010-N3130 - Close ratio OD transmission 32010-N3030 - Wide ratio OD transmission 32010-N3220 - Option 1 race transmission 32010-N3221 - Option 2 race transmission 32010-N3222 - Option 3 race transmission 32010-N3201 - Rally transmission FYI... All are 5 speeds.