johnc

I suggest you get a copy of Florida's vehicle code and read the pertinent sections. Relying on what other people say can cause a lot of problems.

Or, conversly, the driver of the F50 might suck... But, Doug is a pretty good driver. He let me drive his F355 and its a nice car, but its always got something wrong with it.

You've got gobs of time but, you also have a bunch of interests beyond the Z. Here's my suggestion: 1. Sell the motorcycles. 2. Sell the bicycles. 3. Sell the pool cue. 4. Sell the girlfriend. 5. Sell the lawn mower. 6. Sell the computer. Now you'll have more money and time to work on the Z!

The roll center of short-long arm (SLA) 4 link suspension is found by extending the suspension link axes until they intersect to form an instantaneous center (usually somewhgere outside the car in space). Then a striaght line is drawn from that center to the contact patch center of the tire opposite the instant center. The roll center is where this straight line intersects the vehicle centerline. The roll center of a live axle car is usually a few inches above the rear axle axis but this can be changed with track bar adjustments (if so equipped). Get "Tune to Win" by Carroll Smith.

Its a common misconception that aluminum radiators cool better than steel/brass. Given equal fin count and core size an aluminum radiator will not cool as well as a steel or brass radiator. Racers use aluminum radiators because they are lighter, not because they cool better. BTW... If the engine we're talking about is an L6, 215 degrees is fine. The L6 likes (most power, most efficient) to run 200 to 210 degrees coolant temp.

12 x 1.25 as Tim said.

And they still only got low 14s?

Yes its possible. But there are a lot of issues you need to research. A big thing to consider is the front vs. rear suspension roll centers. If the new front suspension has a higher roll center than the existing rear suspension you'll have a nightmare on your hands.

The 110 welder should be fine for up to .125 wall tubing but it might not be enough for the mounting plates, especially if you're just learning how to weld. Find a local class or get a welding video and practice, practice, practice before you start on your roll cage.

Just did 854 with Jeromio's hack. Its no fun anymore.

> I know the stock system sux But, but, but... it doesn't! Wheel to wheel ITS, EP, and old the CP class racers across the country stop repeatedly from 120 mph plus with the stock brakes. That's hundreds of racing Zs across the country at least one weekend a month for the last 30 years. The stock Z braking system works very well if its maintianed and the proper brake pads are used.

A massive time-waster. Broadband recommended. My personal best after 2 minutes is 229 mph. The best I've heard so far is 337 mph. Nothing like spanking your monkey at over 300 mph. Spank the Monkey

Send it back to TWM. They shoudn't be shipping throttle bodies that stiick.

The Mini Cooper S has been out since May. One ran in the OTC and did well in Touring 4. They make about 165 hp supercharged.

I agree with Lone. Unless someone was doing some major R&D on a unique EFI/Engine Managment system, 10 months is out of line. The basic Bosch EFI system has been around since 1968 when D-Jetronic was introduced. Its not rocket science anymore (and wasn't back then.)

Here's a front bushing list: Control arm bushings Tension rod bushings Steering rack mount bushings Steering coupler Motor mounts Upper spring isolator You should also replace the ball joints with new Nissan parts. You already have the tie rod ends. I also suggest you take the time and replace all the fasteners with new Nissan or equivilant metric grade 9.8 or 10.9 parts.

Its actually pretty simple but requires a complete teardown of the car and a lot of prep. You cut a 1.5 mm slot along each seam, inside or outside of the spot welds and deep enough to only cut through 1 of the panels spot welded together. Then, using a TIG welder (no MIG too much heat - panel distortion and discoloration) you run a bead in the slot joining the the two panels back together. Then you carefully grind and fill everything so its smooth and then undercoat or paint. Again, its hundreds of hours of prep and clean up after. So, whichever racing series you're cheating at better pay a lot in prize money. I also suspect that, since I was told of this trick, the cheaters have found another, easier, better way of achieving the same thing. Whenever you're told of a "new" trick, you can bet that its not the "new, new" trick.

> The other issue is modulation for car control. > Larger brakes for those larger wheels and tires > will probably mean that you'll be able to > modulate the brakes better and control the car > better Brake modulation and control has more to do with matching master cylinder and caliper piston sizes, front/rear balance, and brake pad material than the size of rotors, wheels, and tires. At the MSA autocross I drove a couple 240Zs that had big brake upgrades and the only way you could tell a wheel was locking was by seeing smoke. Braking force was purely a function of brake pedal position, not how hard you were pushing on it. Braking balance, control, and consistency is much more important than ultimate stopping power. If my brakes work the same every time and provide good feedback I'll be able to beat a car with brakes not having the same attributes even through the magazines say it stops 25' shorter. If bigger rotors, bigger calipers, etc. give you that consistency and control, go for it. But don't quickly abandon a braking system that's been proven on racetracks for almost 30 years.

> I also doubt it adds any measureable stiffness. True, but it does give you back the stiffness that may have been lost over the past 30 years. And I learned a month ago how to seam weld any car and not have it detectable. Seems that the SCORE offroad racers have been doing it for years and getting away with it. SCORE finally gave up trying to police it.

My comment about the useful life of slicks concerns road racing and oval track slicks. And it probably only applies to the useful life for their intended purpose.

Generally used racing slicks have lost a lot of their stick. Racing slicks are generally good for about 5 heat cycles - 5 short track sessions, one long track session, 3 autocrosses, etc. After that, the rubber starts to harden up and they are no better than a regular set of street tires. Sometimes you can bring them back to life for a another heat cycle using tire treatments like Formula 1. But be aware that some race tracks ban the stuff.

Also depends on your intended use. Unless you're doing extensive endurance type track events the Wilwood/Outlaw brakes are fine.

Its a compromise for street, autocross, and track (not drag).

I'm running a custom 21 gallon ATL cell in my track car. If you're building a street/drag race car you don't need to spend the money for an ATL. You generally need to stay within the following dimensions for a flush fit and to get the tank to fit in the rear of the 240Z, allowing room for a mounting frame. Width (side to side) - 28" Length (front to back) - 22" Depth - 12"

Have your mechanic friend do the work and provide a warranty. Normally, I'll replace most of the stuff mentioned unless I know how many miles are on the parts and how they were used.