johnc

The "C" cam is the stock camshaft in the US Spec 260Z. For some reason its got this mythical reputation as something special. It was sold by Nissan Comp as part number 13001-N3626 generally for ignorant guys cheating in ITS. The less ignorant would just pull the cam and rockers out of a junkyard 260Z for about $100 less then what Comp was charging for the N3626 cam. But that quickly became protest bait because all the other Z guys knew about it, so if you're 240Z was a bit faster then someone else the first thing asked in impound was to have the valve cover removed. The performance gain for a street engine is not worth the expense or effort. For a race engine, other then a 2.6L running in ITS, its really not worth the expense or effort. In both cases you can get a much better cam for the same money.

Local SCCA T1 race.

You should provide a lot more information in your request otherwise we'll probably assume you're a scammer since this is your first post here.

Uuuhhh, this is a race. This driver is very skilled and in complete control of his quarter million dollar Porsche. The passes that look "close" to you are normal racing passes. He isn't forcing any car off the road, the drivers in front are moving over (if necessary) and giving him some room because he's obviously the faster car. He did nothing reckless. Pascal Pandelaar has a professional racing resume that includes DTCC which is probably the most difficult sedan racing series in the world. BTW... looked at the video closely and he never puts a wheel off course. He does use the FIA curbing but I do (did) too when I raced. That's considered parts of the racing surface. Also, if you notice on the Kemmel Straight he puts his hand on the mirror. He's either thanking the driver of the Falcon for pointing him by or asking the Falcon driver to not re-pass him before Les Combes.

I've had a few customer cars blasted and the paint shops that ultimately get the car are emphatic that it not be primered. They want it sprayed with a light rust preventative and one recommended using Picklex 20. I've used WD40 and just resprayed the car with it every couple months.

He's skilled. If you drive a particular race car long enough you know exactly what it will do and how to get the absolute most out of it. There's nothing scary or spectacular to it - except of course to those that are not driving the car and don't have the high confidence in it that the familiar driver does.

I would think the paint on the oil filter would be damaged by some liquid be dripped/poured on it. I've run oil temps over 300F for short periods and never had an oil filter look any different then brand new.

http://jalopnik.com/5894294/ride-along-on-a-wild-lap-of-circuit-de-spa

It depends... If you're paying for the transmission then you'll use the clutch on downshifts. I had a $7,900.00 Quaife sequential dog box in my racing 240Z and I used the clutch on downshifts. And I told my co driver he damn well better use it too! There are a lot of clutch hand control options and most are not overly complex. The Z32 has a hydraulic clutch so its just a matter of making a hand actuator with enough leverage on the clutch MC while keeping a little bit of feel. I've seen installations where the clutch lever is on the shifter which strikes me as a pretty brilliant idea. Maybe a setup scavenged from a motorcycle?

Oops! I thought you were able to buy that set. Maybe someone who has not installed theirs yet can loan/rent them to you for the event.

You'll need the wheel wells, strut towers, rear bulkhead, some of the tunnel, and most of the subframe. Weld an X between the strut towers, a bar across the top of the tunnel welded to the tunnel and the front of the wheel wells. These bars can be square tube 1 1/2" .063" wall. Mount the whole thing upside down on HF engine stand. EDIT: I'm agreeing with cockerstar.

That's what a "confidence pump" is for.

Take the suspect strut off the car and check tube straightness with a straight edge. You can also check spindle straightness with a machinist or carpenter's square.

I guess you found them.

Magazine writers are morons. Yes, you will fade the brakes on a 3,400 lbs street car when you take it on a race track and flog it at VIR. My 350Z would cook the stock brakes after 4 or 5 laps, depending on the track, and yet I never smashed the car into a wall. Adding brake ducts solved the problem and included hard stops to 50mph from 150mph. Improving the brake pads and brake fluid made things even better. The brakes on the 370Z are fine unless you're a red mist moronic magazine writer.

You could have a bent strut tube, a bent spindle, bad LCA bushings, bent strut tower, bad upper isolator, or you could be measuring camber on an unlevel surface. Find a new strut corner.

Motul RBF600. You should also make sure the clutch system is completely bled. Lots of folks do a half-assed job bleeding the clutch system.

Please search the FAQs. There are huge, 10 year old threads that answer your question.

The difference between the EMI Racing camber plates and the DP Racing camber plates is in the materials used - the design is identical. The EMI Pates are an upgrade (actually made by DP Racing for EMI) using 7075 aluminum, NHBB Astro COM10 spherical bearings, 316 stainless Torrington bearings, hardened spring steel bearing washers, 316 stainless bolts, etc. I ran a set on my 240Z for 10 years without having to replace anything, sold them to a fellow racer, and he ran them for another 5 years before he sold the car to another racer. As far as I know they are still going strong somewhere in the midwest. The DP Racing plates have also lasted a long time although I don't have any specific numbers from my own usage. I'm sure other folks on here can chime in with their experiences.

The EMI Plates are NLA. I have been selling Don Oldenberg's (Design Products Racing - DP Racing) biscuit style camber plates in place of the EMIs for those customers interested. I haven't updated the web site, but I probably should. The confusion arises because Don's web site has been down for a while and I had a link to his from mine. Anyway, I sell the DP Racing biscuit style camber plates for $185 per pair (same as what Don charges) plus the $10 Don charges to ship one or two pair to me. I disassemble the fronts and grease the Torrington bearing with Wurth SIG3000 before I ship them off to you.

That's a lot of toe out. 1/16" out per side for a total of 1/8". Toe in of 1/16" total in back will stabilize the rear and help putting power down. Make absolutely sure the car tracks straight.

for staying on top of this Jon. Z product development is a pain in the ass sometimes.

The metal coil in the rubber hose probably rubbed against the turbine. Those pieces have also gone through the engine and lateral play in the turbo was most likely caused by the damage. Get the turbo rebuilt, remove your oil filer and cut it open to check for metal, change the oil, and do a leak down test on the engine.

I'll help for a Jelly Doughnut http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5DgQ7t5yVPY