johnc

Its whatever he wants to charge. How many people are out there offering to cut out parts from a car to your order? And if you grind on him about the price, he may not do as good a job cutting the panels out. Why don't you drive out there and cut the panels out yourself?

I have never installed or measured the Maxima CV shafts. I don't know if they will fit.

Yes. And I suggest Swain over Jet Hot.

Why don't measure the clearance to the suspension and brake components on your own car and come up with the numbers yourself?

That's fine. The higher end ones I mentioned have a step or collar (typically about .049") inside the ring that does not have the projection so the the projected tube butts against it. The tube from the other end also butts into the backside of the step before welding. You can accomplish the same thing using the clamps in the pic above making sure the tubes butt against each other.

Try Acetone first. After that try any of the commercial paint strippers.

One of the subtle issues with today's high performance cars is that the level of performance is so much higher. 7/10ths in a modern high performance car is way past 10/10ths in most S30s. The level of speed needed to get to 10/10ths (not boring) in these cars, especially on the street, is beyond what most people are used to and way beyond safe.

Even if you don't use the frame rails, floor pans, roof, rear 1/4 panels, rockers, doors, fenders, and radiator core support, all of those parts can be sold. Its worth the time, trouble and sawzall blades to salvage these parts if they are rust free and not beat up.

$20 says you did see it happening and you did try to avoid the accident but you can't remember as a result of the concussion. Maybe you swerved without hitting the brakes or you hit the brakes but didn't skid a tire.

Put casters with wheel brakes on the bottom. A little extra weight makes things more stable. You're not just going to weld on it - welding tables often get used for fab work too.

I wouldn't bother with the expense of an aluminum top. Steel is just fine. Weld a bolt to one of the legs for your ground clamp.

A lot depends on the material used. Some of the cheap clamps I've seen are mild steel with a high polish. That might be fine for a clamp in the exhaust but it will be an issue up at the turbo. It also depends on the type of fitment. The good clamps are designed so that one exhaust tube in the joint projects beyond the clamp face by .1" and fits into a recess in the other clamp face. This significantly improves the seal and makes alignment a lot easier.

Rotor should be 11" OD.

No you don't need to be a driveline specialist. Its all in the FSM pages PD1 through PD20. Removing the cross shaft requires a pin punch and a hammer.

There are two different bolt patters for the 240Z brake booster. The early cars had the bolts spaced horizontally by 80mm. Later cars (I don't know the cutoff) the spacing is 100mm. Your car has the early 80mm spacing.

You might think about a small visor over your LCD display. I've driven a car (SRF) when the display gets washed out in the sun.

And this is the reason you need an attorney. You might not be thinking right due to the concussion and coma. Although I was never out as long as you, I've knocked myself out for a bit trying to be Ricky Carmichael and I had trouble remembering and figuring things out for a couple days after. Hope things turn out OK. Hope the girlfriend is OK too.

You can pick up 2" of headroom by cutting out the stock seat mounts and welding 1" x 2 1/2" .065" wall rectangular tubing across the floor and bolting the seats through that.

An example of curb hopping from back when cars were setup with lots of compression damping, spring, and roll stiffness. Plus its an excuse for me to again post one of my favorite facing vids.

Don't curb hop with Tokcio HP or Illumina shocks. You car will get tossed a couple feet to the side. Had that happen years ago at Streets of Willow going through the kink. Found myself off track to the right and spinning back across the track to the left. Scared the crap out of me and the six cars closely following.

Send a PM to SuperDan and ask him where to send the check.

Curb hopping reduces lap times. But, as mentioned above, the car setup is critical - in particular high speed compression damping (> .3 mps) on the shocks. Digressive valving reduces the rate of force increase based on piston speed and thus are more effective at controlling the chassis over curbs. Even better are blowoffs that significantly reduce compression damping force at high piston speeds. Even better then that are the custom Penske triples I had on the racing 240Z had Velocity Dependent Pistons (VDP) that had adjustable valving for high piston speeds. We could sorta adjust the high speed compression to allow for different height curbs so the shock would go open (blowoff) at > 3.mps for a certain amount of its travel. Before Buttonwillow was repaved the curbs in the esses were about 3" high. I could drive straight over them and there would only be a slight movement in the steering wheel. More the a few guys had a lot of trouble following my line.

The value of your car is the least of your concerns. If you were out for 7 hours there are going to be lingering effects for a long time. Get a lawyer.

I've seen that kind of movement with side axles in the R180 and R200. The rattling noise in the video is from the various drive line clearances with no load on them and/or the brake drums rattling around. I would check for metal to metal contact in any part of the diff mounting.

Its Derek Bell driving the Rothmans 956 in 1983. He reached 240mph on the Mulsanne straight in that qualifying run. Same year, same car, same driver at Spa. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PZ0OwnkXQUA