johnc

If number 6 rod starts to knock, you don't have enough volume or pressure. I ran 5W-30 in my race engine with about 100psi of oil pressure at 7,000 rpm. I could have a run a 0W-20 with the oil pump I had. Just shim the oil pressure spring if you're worried about the idiot light at idle.

IMHO, its not an issue. If you run coil overs you can just install helper springs like these from Hybperco (page 13-14 in the catalog): http://www.hypercoils.com/catalog.html There are handling reasons to run droop limiters in front and if you search there are a couple threads here that discuss it.

Search this site and read up for about a month before making any decisions.

Anything is possible, but be aware that the rear strut tubes are structural parts of the suspension. You will have to figure out how to make them long enough, strong enough, and properly located at the top without the shock and springs in place.

Fixed that for you...

It could be the oil filter but I'm not convinced based on your description of the problem. Maybe the oil pressure was too low to trigger the filter bypass? You said you changed the oil and filter 20 miles before the problem occurred. Have you put 20 miles on the new NAPA filter? Generally a no oil pressure problem is the gauge/sender, the pickup, the pump, or the pump drive. But if you've got pressure back and are seeing oil on the cam lobe under the filler cap then those items are fine. Also, a 5W-30 synthetic oil is fine. I ran a 0W-30 synthetic in my racing 3L without any issues.

The oil filter is after the pressure sender in the oiling system of the L6. A clogged oil filter will still read oil pressure. Also, the bypass valve in the block will open if the oil filter is clogged so oil will still flow to the main oil gallery. I suspect a sender or a gauge problem, not an issue with the oil filter. And Fram filters are fine, don't believe everything you read.

There's always Brutus:

The question was about a 914 but the answer is generic and applies to all cars. Yes. The Golf GTIs racing in SSC in the early 1990s are perfect examples of that.

No. I think I called it in post 8.

They also tested that idea on the P&W 4360 Wasp Major back in the mid 1950s but went with two standard turbos and a supercharger.

Yup. Got a 6 cylinder E36 BMW down to 2,100 lbs. by cutting off every unused bracket and grinding off any tabs spot welded to the chassis. Took out 44 lbs.

You do know that you're putting the load through an aluminum casting that's not designed to take a load like that. Keep an eye on the MC.

I've changed my mind! The best oil is anything from Motul! 'Course, it looks like I'm going to be a Motul dealer, but that had nothing to do with me changing my mind...

Given a budget similar to the price of a good used 550 I'm pretty sure I can equal the performance and come within 75% of the luxury. Wind noise and NVH will the areas where you won't be able to equal the 550 due to the basic S30 chassis. I can equal the ride (the 550s actually don't ride that well), handling, acceleration, and decelleration. http://www.dupontregistry.com/autos/Search/DRauSearchResults.aspx?sorttype=1&makeid=31&makename=Ferrari&modelid=97&modelname=550

Sounds like a troll to me. His benchmark is a Honda S2K yet he's asking for 275 to 350 rwhp and 25 to 30mpg and an easy swap/upgrade all for under $10K. You can't even buy a decent stock S2K for $10 grand which doesn't meet his horsepower or mpg goals.

Funny... When I first checked here after Keith's post it only showed his post, so I thought it was a new thread. I was about to say, "That's a pretty good guess."

That device already exists. Its called "Turbo." Available everywhere in peel off sticker form.

The hardware side of this new performance device should be easy. The software side ("Skills Interface") looks to be the most difficult.

The splines joint is part of the collapsible steering column and is a safety thing. You do not want to bond the splined section together. My guess, without hands on the wheel, is that the play you're feeling is normal for a 40 year old car. You can try another steering column to see if its in better shape.

Where did the above quote come from?

V-mount setups ARE highly overrated. I have yet to see a properly installed/ducted setup where the air flow is directed properly to flow straight through the heat exchangers and then properly exited. Liquid to air heat exchangers are designed to work most efficiently perpendicular to the air flow. When you start angling them to the airflow you create a lot of turbulence on the forward surface of the heat exchanger which significantly reduces flow. To make a V-mount work you need to turn and duct the incoming air to go straight through the heat exchangers and then exit the air straight out and then turn and duct to a low pressure area.

The BRZ/FRS is all the rage here in the West Coast autocross scene. Dozens of STR Miatas and S2000s are being sold to buy these cars. I counted at least 6 new FRSs at the San Diego even last weekend.

From Mark Ortiz's chassis newsletter.

You can build a nice 3 or 3.1L engine with what you're describing. But... my recommendation would be, since you don't have the LD28 crank and you have other trans options, would be to not buy and prep the LD28 crank, sell the Nissan Comp box, and use the money to build a 300hp Turbo engine using the block and head that you have. A good Nissan Comp box can get $3,000 depending on which one it is.