johnc

Investigate "Lien Sale" in your state's DMV regulation books and try to make friends with a sympathetic auto repair shop.

"If only there were some type of "throttling" device that would allow you to reduce the power output when necessary while still allowing greater power to be delivered when it could be applied..... Maybe actuated through a "skill" type interface..." - Will Kalman.

And if they spend some time and effort they can drop their 60' times with proper shock valving and springing. A while ago I worked with a drag team that was running an all motor Honda CRX and with slow motion video, an upgrade to Koni 8212s, and some valving changes we pulled .2 out of their 60' times. That got them into the low 10s and four consecutive class wins.

Pressure bleed back through the fuel pump. Nothing to worry about.

Air is the best insulator - by far. The Space Shuttle tiles are 90% air. The best you can do is get air flowing through the hot areas in your engine compartment.

The detergent package in the oil and how frequently the oil is changed determines how clean the engine internals are, not the base oil stock. You can develop just as much "gunk" in your engine by not changing your synthetic oil as not changing your dino oil.

That be... Quarter Master. http://www.quartermasterusa.com/ I ran their 5.5" Pro Series and never had a problem.

Check the bottom of the strut tube to make sure there isn't a spacer or a buildup of dirt that would cause that one tube to stick out. Also, for the front struts and the HZ3015 there should not be any spacers attached tot he bottom of the shock.

And I don't believe you. If you go back and read through this thread, you'll understand why.

You obviously haven't read this thread in any details. With a S30 the issue isn't horsepower, its aero.

Why not go to a Tilton hydraulic release bearing? http://www.tiltonracing.com/sites/default/files/editor_uploads/files/Tilton2012%20-%20Hydraulic%20Release%20Bearings.pdf

Have Porterfield make you some rear brake shoes with their R4S compound.

Stock for a street car and I've also removed the stock prop valve and added an adjustable one, but only for racing in the rain. For the rear drums its more important to keep them adjusted then which prop valve you have installed. If you take a Unibit and enlarge the existing hole in the face of the drum to about 3/4" and then drill a same sized hole 180 opposite it makes adjusting very easy, without removing a wheel. It can be done in less then 5 minutes and that includes jacking up the back of the car.

Good luck.

Tires are a given. They should be replaced every 7 to 9 years regardless of tread condition.

You need a big bump stop underneath the car.

The taller springs go in the front.

Yes. The regular width will fit on the driver's side and and the fat butt width will fit on the passenger side. The shoulder wings will hit the door panel but you'll still be able to close the door. I ran Imola 2s on my racing 240Z. FYI... I used the Cobra side mounts and did not run sliders. They were mounted on the stock 240Z floor pan seat mounts.

I've used and installed the lord mounts on a few customer cars. Not problems.

Just use the stock oil pump.

Mid year 1972 so some late 1972 engines might have the 9mm rod bolts but all 1973s engines do. That's for the US market. Ben's page has a few mistakes when it comes to US specs.

Ooops... I guess I should read those details. Its actually easier to do a coil over on a S130.

Why yes there is... http://www.betamotorsports.com/products/products_main.php?cat=10&scat1=47&scat2=43

As above and only to someone local. If its a 1973 engine with the 9mm bolt connecting rods then the rods themselves are worth more then the engine.

A bolt going through the radiator and the core support with a rubber washer between the radiator and the core support will only work if the bolt has a significantly smaller OD then the holes it passes through. For the radiator mounting that would mean a 6mm bolt - which can carry the load just fine if its class 10.9. The core support racks from side to side and twists so the standard 8mm bolt will not allow enough movement even with a rubber washer. But, this concern only comes into play with bigger/sticker wheels and tires and autocross or track events. Maybe it also happens on rough roads or really bad driveways. I build a cradle (pictures below) for my racing radiators. You can also use lord mounts shown in the link to McMasterCarr. http://www.mcmaster.com/#vibration-damping-sandwich-mounts/=iw2gkc part number 4403K76