zedevan

you sound as indecicive as me...however i would put the 2jz in the zed, it was made to b

sorry, not meaning to be rude but would be great if you could post your sketch of the make shift tool! also wouldn't the screw driver have to be taking a fair bit of force? and be semi hard to hold there while doing this? i really should of bought an extra nut insert to try installing into some random peice of metal... thanks -evan

here are my attempts of rolling paint on a spare door. however rolling it on really doesn't have much to do with it, except its easy and safe, how well it turns up really comes down to how much you can be bothered, which i see as a good thing, as if i can b bothered later on, i could go and fix up a panel a bit more etc. i accidently damanged the door after i'd put a few good coats on, and in my rush/excitement to get some good cut and polish, and pads, i only put one coat over the top of the black rust paint i put down, hence why you can see it coming through. the paint is brightside's "largo blue" (AU$50 per litre), the aim was to get something similar to laguna seca blue, and i think this will do, i just need to commit to the colour, and actully paiting over my sexy orginal green, which looks fine from this angle, but every panal except this one has something wrong with it (actully this one has small rust repairs visible under the fuel cap, so thats a lie) i guess i can always get it sprayed again in the green as it kind of needs it anyway.

thanks, that'd be appreshiated

thanks for the confirmation, and agreed that if someone wants them they can get them (hence they are going to be insured) but still it would be good to deter idiots who are after an easy theft. however since they are custom wheels i'm guessing they're going to have a number stamped into them possibily, and as they wont suit a whole lot of cars they wouldn't b of much use to anyone but a smaller group, so that should help also thanks again -evan

I'm after some good, high quality forged lock nuts for my car. my searchs on this site turned up nothing, although previously i'd come across some threads on another (non zed) forum recommending one specific brand although i have forgotten the brand and can't find it So i'm curious as what the thread size is needed, from my research thus far i've been told its 12 X1.25, is this correct? and is this the same as what a newer nissan would use in regards to the ones for sale on ebay? And does anyone have a brand of lock nuts they would recommend? although you dont need to advertise what you use as that semi defeats the purpose of them? lol are there any which have bits on the outside which would break of should someone try to undo them without the correct tool? therefore kind of being more secure? thanks -evan

hi austin, and others who have done this install, i've managed to source all of the componets, although some people i've talked to say that a special tool is required for the nut inserts, and i dont see how you could of hammered them in to distort them like you did just with a hammer? unless you have alot of skill? which i'd say could be the case judging by the appearance of your car so is a special tool needed? if so, its name and a rough price would be great thanks

its not really much of a change at all, different bonnet and boot? woo hoo...i think the first 350z bonnet looked more like a 240z in terms of making teh bonnet look long and narrow, this makes it look shorter and fatter, although it is raised in a similar manner to s30's, and pointed after this many years its less of a change than the local car manufactures do in one year to the family cars they sell...besides the engine. if this is in the same price category as the new audi TT's and i had that kind of money i think i know which i'd be looking at closer in terms of styling, then i'd buy neither and get something else lol the silver/grey colour looks interesting though, much like that flat grey that ppl seem to be painting on their cars, however in the other pic it looks more metalic

if its a flat surface i'd be starting sanding with 800, u can always go rougher. i dont have any pictures of it but have seen a 240z with z32 seats in it and i think it suited it quite nicely, and was told the passenger side is alot easier to do due to the electrics on the drivers seat. if u already have the seats couldnt' u easily imagine what its going to look like?

the ford orange i assume you're talking about is off the falcons? my mates uncle sprayed his 240z in it, i havn't seen it yet but my mate says it looks awesome. no help with the codes sorry, that porsche colour doesn't look metallic where as the ford colour is slightly

so they kinda look like these flares? http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=13020&cat=500&ppuser=2116 but with the zg bolt holes? sounds awesome

RB30-ZED, a member on classiczcars (mayb here too?) has got an rb30 in his car with an rb25de vvti head i believe one of my mates put an rb25det into his vl commodore (the engine all the rb30's come out of) and has now put the rb30 block back in with the 25 head, and says for the money he's now spent he could of, and should of bought an rb26dett, and thats with him doing all the work, so i think he must of upgraded a few things there are also a couple of guys in aus building up rb30dett's (possibily converted to single turbo) for their 240z's i think, they have websites, not sure of the links sorry.

yeah thanks heaps for the inspriation! had two times today where only one light would turn on (different one each time) its not a good feeling lol. just double checked all the connections and they worked so no idea whats happening there i wish i'd looked through hidplanet more before i purchased my lights, but in saying that i haven't seen any rhd projectors come up for sale here in aus, not that i've been looking to much. got other things to concider wasting money on lol

i sure as hell agree with you there! i'd b happy with a 2litre 4 cylinder motor in one though, preferably none turbo as i'd like to have some control! lol seriously thinking about leaving my zed stock and buying a lotus 7 half built up and playing with it instead. my aim was to have both (lotus 7 later on) but my family keeps trying to convince me not to "waste" money on the zed lol a lotus 7 would b the perfect car to build a custom body kit for. has anyone seen the spoon s2k i belive it is, it has a hardtop that makes it look like a z4 coupe, i couldnt find any pics of it, theres a video on youtube however. here's a kitted lotus 7, not the sexiest but the cars are nearly a blank slate, where as a zed is sexy to begin with

my car is stock #240 colour dark green, and i will soon have black zg flares with 17" black centered wheels (the same style and size as what toecutter has), i think it will look awesome, but no cf bonnet for me however i would happily put one on my car if someone wants to donate one

i had an 89 crx with a d16 in it for about 2 months max, only on the road for 2 weeks, and it was fun for that time, wish i still had it to drive in peak hour so the zed doesn't get damanged, but in saying that it has already done its job. hit up the ass by a tow truck driver who didn't break and took out 4 cars stopped at a traffic light, of which i was the middle one, sure glad it wasn't the zed i've horded some parts to, flares, doors, another set of lights all around except for the front indicators (am looking for some lol) centre console, air vent panel, metal bit above the dash, headlight switches...ummm 9 stock wheels and soon 4 sexy ones

well here at last, over what feels like a year later, i've managed to take some pics of them being assembled, as i said its pretty easy, i took the glass off the headlights and cut the hole at the back but dremeling off the h4 globe holder, then put the bmw light in there and put the shinny peice of plastic back on the front. from there i held it level and marked out where to drill the holes, then drilled them, put the screws though, i used some plastic standoffs, (although they seem kind of pointless, they do help hold the screws straighter, and i need to paint them but i couldn't b bothered taking off the glass) and then used nuts to hold it all in place. The metal cylinder you see is a coke can sanded back to stop the light leaking out everywhere, then the light holder from in the fenders was cut as it sticks back to far, and as you can see i used a rubber ball to seal it up. if i was to do it again i'd try to get some 300c lights and put them in the 7" lights as i like their bezel and they have a fair bit of blue at the cutoff, or what i'm thinking of doing at some stage (say within 5 yrs) is honda accord euro lights (tsx) retrofitted with the highbeams about halfway down the sugar scoops with them painted black with headlight covers to look like most modern sports cars front lights although i love this updated old school look, and being able to see at night, hopefuly the wider wheels i'm getting dont rub badly on the covers i have made to stop water getting to the lights

nice looking wheels! i did the same sorta thing re christmas present, but i have to wait till the end of feb for them to get made up if you want something different go for the bronze, it would like nice on both colours you are thinking of, i dont think the hyper black would look all that special on a dark grey car (i'm a big fan of the colour on cars ) and i guess silver is just silver to me, but can look very nice just my opinion, and would look around at lots of others cars with the colours to see what you like!

that shinny mx-5 (miata) is painted using brightside (which is boat paint) not rustoleum, it appears to be shinnier and you guys in america can buy it off ebay turns out that guy lives in melbourne so i've found out where he's gotten the paint from and am planning to pick some up (mayb in a light blue colour like that m3 colour on3go has his car painted in, but depends what they make) and see if i get the same results, along with using his polishing technique on the rust paint i've played with a bit (killrust) to see if it can get as shinny with your rustoleum giong all milky, is the metho you're using 100% or are there some other thigns in it possibily reacting with it and making it go that way? when i apply the rust paint i've been using it comes up glossy yet there is some orange peel in it, and i havn't tried polishing it well enough to get back to orginal gloss, only well enough to give it what i'd say is a shinny satin finish

yeah stop looking at honda riceboy rims

if only postage to australia didn't make them twice as expensive (well thats my guess anyway) if you make carbon fibre zg flares and the 240z tail light panel, and i get rich enough to through away money on such items i'd b done for them and the front and rear spoilers though, they look awesome

my thought would be they only have the same surface per area, so therefore cooling would be the same? therefore this woudln't affect anything? except that since the force was spread over a larger area it woudlnt be working as hard so it woudlnt get as hot? my thoughts regarding this question (just been thinking about it since being told that friction isn't dependant on surface area and wondering why running wider tyres would help) is that while friction isn't dependant on the surface area in that basic equation, the normal force is. as in the pressure (force/area) is less with a larger area, and hence the normal force per cm^2 is less, therefore it requires a larger force to make it spin...(although the higher the normal force the better the friction so ?) And that somewhere down the line they are going to say that f=mN is the basic equation, now though it out the window and use this one (what ever it might be) as that is something they seem to like doing

looks nice! bmw have a concept car where the whole interiour is bent out of sheet metal. They basically score it and kink it, unfortunately i dont know the name of it, but it looks quite special!

i enquired about 17" rs-8's and they said they didn't make them with a negative offset. so is the only way to 17" watanabes that fit nicely under the zg flares, is to get the centres from a second hand set and get the shells custom made up like that guy with the 300zx has? or to buy watanabe copies?

i would of thought 20g would get you a stock imported r32gtr, 35g a stock r33 and 60ish an r34? either way this engine is expensive lol