danc

Did mine the same way using the Lokar braded cable,, Works fine....

I don't have a LSD 370: but I would be interested in the 336. I have a 390: "open" out of an 83 ZX if you have any interest in that one.. Thanx Dan

BRAAP: I'm running Fastburn 385 Heads with Hedman Tight Tube "D." ports. No problem at all, or will clearance/meltdown on 8MM Spark Plug Wires.. Pace Performance has them.. dan

I've been struggling adnauseam with what sounds like the same problem with my 83 SBC 280ZX. I've exhausted every idea passed along on this and other forums to solve it within the stock ZX wiring harness. No such luck with a lot of time and energy spent! I finally bought an "Ignited" push button starter and used a Beuler 40/50 Amp relay (part# BU-5083-0000. I made a cover for what used to be the plate with cruise control on it for the Ignited button, and it looks factory.

Since you are talking about valve covers, I had a problem with the Aluminum Bowtie Valve covers (you show) sealing properly. Tired several different gaskets; including Profrom, and they still leaked. Ended up talking to the guys at Sallee Chevrolet since they sell a ZZ430 clone (which is what I have) and found out they use Felpro Part# 1608 which is a thicker gasket. Sealed no problems...

Guys: Had another thread on this, but to simplify, my SBC ZX had an intermittant starting problem and everything else works perfectly. When it starts via ignition key, it fires right up without problem. Battery, starter, cables, grounds, ignition relay, and useable links are all O.K. When it doesn't start via ignition key, it starts no problem with a remote starter button jumped across the "S." terminal and the other jumper on the batt cable of the starter. I'm about ready to replace the Ignition Control Unit, or ignition switch, but thought I would ask one last time if there are any wiring wizards out there who could identify a potential iimtermittant problem to a component. I know the ignition switch is a "candidate" for an intermittant problem, but was wondering if there are any others that would cause this problem???? Thanx Dan

Graeme: I have 2 crate motors and am please with both. I have a Fastburn 385 with an LT-4 "Hot-Cam" for 430 H.P 430 Lbs torque in a 1983 ZX, and a 350 HO which is the 350-330 H.P. you are talking about in a 1940 Ford Pick-up. They both have the VORTEC heads with the 350 Ho having the iron versions and the "385" whas the aluminum. I'm very happy with both and got what I expected for the money. Guess it really depends on how much horsepower you are looking for and the "application" . My personal opinion is that you get a lot of value in a crate motor for the money. You do have a warranty and you know exactly what you are getting for the dollars. Take a look at the GM performace WEB site and you can get comparisions on their VORTEC heads to other manufacturers. Has flow rates and a lot of other specs that may help your decision process. Dan

Guys: I've had starting problems with my 83 SBCZX (different thread SBC/ZX staring problems) which I never resolved. I had 12 volts coming off the ignition and now I have only 4 volts and pitiful MOAN coming from around the glove box. I assume it is the starter relay. Anyone have any ideas? what would hose an ignition relay?? I've exhausted the local Nissan dealership expertise and need some help if anyone has a clue-bag...Thanx Dan

Guys: Checked out Ignited Performance Products Switches and buttons. They make an excellent product. A bit pricey, but how many times do you buy switches and buttons??

Guys: Is there any difference between an 85 R200 unit and an 83 R200? I have a chance to pick up an 85 354.1 and wanted to make sure before I bought it and found out there is just THIS ONE little difference.... Thanx Dan

The brown fuseable link is O.K. Not sure of the differences between an 80 and an 83, but the fuseable links I found were on the passenger side fenderwell next to the battery. I took the panel off below the glove box and didn't see any fuseable links down there. I was pressed for time yesterday and will do a more through job of trying to find the relay. I also have 4 relays on the passenger side fenderwell in closer to the front. Have done little rewiring on the car and the yellow wire going to solonoid is unchanged from factory. Going to try and find a shop manual to order today.....

Guys/80LT1: Been out of town for work, but had a couple of minutes last night. In case I wasn't clear in the background, the car has run in this configuration, and the starting problem (failing to start intermittantly) just got worse to "won't start at all". Here is what it's not: The starter and battery both check out O.K. under "load" testing. The Holley fuel pump safety switch checks out O.K. with a test recommended by the Holley Techs. When I turn the key to start, I get nothing but what sounds like a relay click on the passenger footwell side of the car. I'd assume since I'm getting that action that the ignition switch is O.K. As I mentioned earlier, the dash lights dim but the interior lights and low oil pressure light do not. I do have 12 volts from the battery to the large terminal on the solonoid, but none on the "S." side. I'll have to move the car outside this weekend to get into the passenger side to check out the fuseable link. I'll let you know what I get back from that test. The list of what is could be has to be getting pretty short, but I really do need to invest in a ZX shop manual. Thanks again. I have another project car (actually inherited an all steel 1940 Ford pro-street pick-up) that is about 90% done that I need to spend some quality time on. I'd hoped to enjoy the "Z" this year and not do too much other than go fast and put gas in.. I have a 3.54 and CV joints on my to-do list for next winter along with power steering and a few other minor projects.. At any rate, I sure do appreciate you guys throwing ideas out and hanging in with me on this. Dan

O.K. Guys it still won't start. Tried hooking up the Holley Low Oil pressure safety switch different ways and it starts with the key in the on position if I change the wires to an incorrect position. There are 3 wires: One normally Open that goes to the ignition; one normally closed that goes to the starter, and one that goes to the fuel pump. Tried hooking up the old Holley safety switch I had laying aruond from last year on this same problem and nothing other than a realy type click on the passenger side in the correct hook-up. Going to talk to the Holley Tech support folks Monday to see how to by pass the switch (assume it is a jumper from the normally open to normally closed to get it started), to eliminate that, but I've tried everything I know to do. (Again as posted earlier A wiring wizard I'm not). The car was a manual trans and I don't have the factory wiring diagram, but is there a starter relay or ignition relay that could be fried. Tried a "working" starter and batt from another vehicl and no-go...Also had a low draining short since the conversion 3 years ago that drained the battery in 3 or 4 days if that is of any help. Now I'm not getting that draw when I hook up the ground terminal.. I'm ready to get out the check book and call wiring Bob and try to get this thing fixed. Any thoughts from anyone out there???? Thanx Dan

baddriver Some of the crate ZZ series had rollers. I have a ZZ-5 Crate (Fastburn 385) that is a roller. It had stamped rockers though. The cam I replaced it with is a Lt-4 "hotcam" which is also a roller. The specs are available at the GM performance parts web site.. Good luck... Dan

Guys: Still no fix. I have had the starter bench tested, put grounds in from the engine to the chassis and starter also to the chassis. already had one from the negative side of the battery to the chassis and engine. I've checked the power again and have power to the large terminal of the starter, alternator, ignition side of the Holley Low oil pressure shut off switch and ignition plug to the distributor. I do not have 12 volts to the "S" terminal on the starter, but am not sure if I would only have that when the key is turned to start. Is there a starter-relay in the system, or thermal fuse anywhere?? It has run in the configuration, so I am stumped... Dan

no_damn_240: I have the MSA mounting kit, and while my application is a ZX, I can tell you the driveline angle is dead on. I had to modify the template for the transmission tunnel mounts but that was in 2001 and they had just started selling the ZX mounts. (Sent my modifed template to them and not sure if they made any changes or not). The engine is set back as far as it can be, but it does set a little high on the ZX. As it was, I had to massage the bottom of the oil pan for the Power R&P.. I'd buy them again.. Good luck. Dan

Guys: Thanx for the help. Haven't tried the "ground" fix yet, but I have eleminated most of the other possibilities except a starter relay. I'll give it a shot this weekend and hopefully it solves what was a pretty nagging problem. Nothing like driving a vehicle that may or may not start.Thanks again. Dan

Guys: I had what was in intermittant (now plain won't start) problem with my BSC/ZX that started when I put the engine back in last year. From the time of the conversion 3+ years agin, I have had to sometimes turn the ignition more than once to get the starter to engage. I hear what sounds like a relay click and the dash lights dim. (Curiously the interior lights don't). I have 12 volts to the starter, alternator and on the ignition side of the Holley low oil pressure shut off switch. I swapped the switch out with an extra I had and it made no change. I have a good ground going from the battery to the chassis, but have never had one from the engine to the frame. I don't have a neutral safety starting switch hooked up yet. An electrical whizz I'm not so any assistance would be greatly appreciated.. Thankx Guys. Dan

Guys: I have what was an intermittant (now plain won't start) starting problem with my ZX. About the only thing I get is what sounds like a relay click and the dash lights dim. Curiously, the interior lights don't! I have 12 volts from the Battery to the ignition side of my Holley low oil pressure shut off, to the alternator and starter. I switched starters and it works fine on my truck. The battery is fine too. The battery terminals are new and clean and I have a battery ground to the chassis. I dont' have one from the engine to the chassis, but didn't have one before the problem started. I tried an extra low oil pressure shut off I had, but the change made no difference. The problem started last year when I put the engine back in, but since the conversion 3 year ago I would sometimes have to turn the ignition switch a couple of times before the starter engaged. Does anyone know where the starter relay is located? Does it have fuseable links in the circuit? An electrical whizz I'm not, so any help would be most appreciated.. Thanx Dan

Thanks a bunch guys. I need to get busy and plug in the numbers.. Appreciate the hep!!!

Guys: I'm trying to decide what rear end ratio to use with my 700R4 (seperate post) and found out about a software package called "Quarter Jr." ($95.) that is supposed pretty accurate. Anyone know anything about it, and if it worth the price?? Thanx Dan

Guys: Again, appreciate the responses. I'm aware of the differences between the 700 and 200 transmissions and I don't think my HP/torque would be a problem for a 200. In a perfect world a 200 would have been better, but I'm already down the road on the 700 investement and would have to modify the trans mount as well as get a new driveshaft due to a difference in length. I am not disappointed in the 700, and a 3.90:1 rear end is way too much gear running a 25" tire anyway. Appreciate the input on the 3.36 too. I'll hopefully be able to continue sampling the experience of guys lke you on the forum to make the decision between a 3.36 and a 3.54. Am having big fun with the car today, but I just want to get the max out of the combination I have.. I read a comparison between the 700R4 first gears (3.06:1) and a TH350 (2.52) that was pretty graphic. A 700R4 running a 3.73 is close to a 350 running a 4.56.