danc

Thanks for the thoughts guys. Here is a clarification of the facts I left out. Nothing is too obvious Aaron, and the fan is wired correctly and working properly. I had one problem with the Black Magic fan on-off temp rheostat control vibrating and changing the on/off times. Other than that, it definitely reduces the engine temps pretty quickly when it kicks on. By the way, I had also modified the rheostat switch turn-on-temp, thinking it might be coming on too late, with no change. I thought maybe I'd gotten the wrong water pump on my crate motor, and talked to the tech guys at GM Performance Parts. They said it was the right one, and without a doubt more than adequate. I'm not sure about the adequacy of the Camaro radiator other than a lot of guys have used it successfully on this conversion, so I wouldn't think that would be the problem. (These parts are all new by the way). I do have the factory belly pan on, but have not sealed off the small gap between the radiator and front core support sides. I did check the thermostat, and it is opening at the right temp, and have also tried a new 15 Lb radiator cap. Yep the upper radiator hose was sucking closed when warm about half way between the radiator and engine. I discovered that problem when I was testing a change to the carbuerator throttle linkage. The running temps on the highway are normal (fan cycles on and off as needed) until I slow down and come to a stop. They shoot up pretty quickly but the good news is they go back down about as quickly too. I would have thought the overheating temps would have been less exagerated in the colder weather, but no real discernable change on that one! My temp sending unit is mounted on the right side of the intake manifold Griemann. The catch-tank does fluctuate as normal, and I do occasionally whiff the unmistakeable sweet antifreeze smell, but it doesn't overheat to the overflow point/hot engine smell. It's a Fastburn 385. I've installed the 430 H.P. LT-4 "Hotcam" kit, and as expected, it had no effect on the problem either. I'm going to change the mounting locations of the A/C evaporator and transmission cooler to see if perhaps they are impeding the fans ability to move "needed- air" and fabricate something to close off the gaps between the radiator and core support. I know Mr. Heat is not our friend, and although this is not a major problem today, I can see it becoming one as the piece/parts become less effecient with age. Any other thoughts would certainly be welcome, and again happy holidays. Dan

My SBC/700R4 83 ZX conversion has been running a little over a year now, and I have a pretty consistant "higher-heat" (240-250+ degrees) problem only after I exit the highway. I can run all day in city traffic at near normal engine temps (180 degree thermostat), and the outside air temperature has no substantial effect on how hot/cool it runs. My engine/conversion piece parts only have 4K miles on them, and I'm running the JTR suggested 84-86 Aluminum/plastic Camaro radiator, and the Black Magic 150 Electric fan. I'm also using Dayco #70651 Upper and #71217 lower radiator hoses. I did have a problem with the upper "sucking closed" at higher RPM, and installed some stainless coiled wire. I have no reason to believe the lower one is any better, so I plan on replacing both of them this winter anyway with something more substantial. (Any part numbers you guys have had success with would be appreciated). I do have an A/C evaporator and the transmission cooler out front of the radiator. I would have thought they would have caused a consistant overheat problem in most driving situations as opposed to what I'm having, but I have little experience in overheating causes/solutions. At any rate, any thoughts would be appreciated. Hope you all have great holidays, and I appreciate the insight I've gleaned thru all the varied and great threads this year.

Dave B. There are several guys on the forum who have converted "ZXs". I have an 83 with a 430 H.P small block Chevy, a 700R4 transmission and a 390:1 stock rear-end. It is very reliable, driveable in all situations, and generally mild mannered until you mash the motor! I hurt a new 405 H.P. Corvette ZO6 so bad a couple of months ago that the driver later told me he drove 10 miles out of his way to get my attention, pull me over, and find out WTF I was running! It was almost like he wanted to spit on his new toy! Mine weights 73 pounds more than it did in the stock form. The suggestion of buying the Jag's That Run manual, and using the search option on this forum with key words related to the specific question are both very good ones. The information, experience pool, and help "quotent" here are the best I've found. You will find some definite and well articulated opinions on every topic of discussion, which are as varied as everyones' background. While the JTR manual is taylored to the Z (and there are significant differences between a Z and ZX conversion), it is a very worthwhile starting point. The philosophy is the same for both conversions, and it will give you a good idea on the conversion scope. I'd also think about how you are going to use the car; be-it a daily driver, Moto-X, or straight line go-real-fast to the end of the driveway! Your driving preference will definitely pre-dispose some of the piece parts you will use. I made a post in May 01 Topic: ZX SBC conversion using MA mounts. It contains a grocery list of various piece/parts I used, and some of the lessions learned thru that point in time. As a general update to that post, I've since installed Eibach coil springs (Pro Kit part #6302.140), Tokico adjustable rear struts, Tokico non adjustable front struts, all new MOOG urethane suspension bushings/stabilizer bars bushings, and new front upper strut bearings. I also installed a new ZZ430 "hot-cam" and a Holley Street Avenger 770 CFM. I still plan on stiffening front and rear strut towers as well as installing power steering and A/C. The investment varies as much as the individual parts-prices. The cost will grow exponentially for everything you "contract out". At any rate, plan on spending more than you thought on the initial conversion as well as upgrading the suspension to handle the drastic change in power and torque. Having said all that, most guys would tell you they really enjoyed the overall project, with the end result being nothing less than a total driving metamorphosis. Good luck!

80LT1: I bought a new Aluminum/plastic Camaro radiator from GM last year (Part #3054101) and it cools and fits fine on a Fastburn 385/83ZX. Also using the Black Magic FLX-150.

Just got a Summit catalogue, and the source code on mine is M26100 with the same 10% with a minimun $299. purchase before 12/31/2002

FordZ8: Think it really comes down to your driving preference, and expected ride quality, what problem you are trying to solve, and how large of a tire/rim combination you want to run. I'm using the Eibach Pro-kit with Tokico struts (Illumina rear) and am very satisified with the result. My converted SBC ZX weighs 78 Lbs. more than it did stock. My use is primarly straight line, and I wanted to eleminate the bottoming-out problem in the rear end under accelleration. The combination took care of all my needs without the proverbial log-wagon ride. There are also guys on the forum who will tell you they are Dogshit. Perhaps they are for their application, but figure out your needs, what you are willing to live with including cost, and you will be moving in the right direction. Dan

gbvol54: The Aluminum version (Fastburn) of the Vortec heads comes pre-drilled for pre and post 86 valve covers, and also drilled for the standard SBC intake manifolds. The Vortec iron heads are not pre-drilled for either. (at least the ones I've seen). Dan

Greimann: I noticed the same thing. I was going to ask you if you were interested in unloading your old ones. Nice fake wheels though!

Julian: Suggest you use the search option on this forum and type in 280ZX conversion (or some permutation there-of). It will give you a lot more information to ponder about the conversion. You might also want to page down through this forum since there have been several questions in the last couple of weeks about the ZX conversion, and motor mounts specifically. There are several guys who have converted ZXs including myself with an 83. Reading the Datsun z V-8 Conversion Manual is also a good source of general information (http://www.jtrpublishing.com). It does not cover the ZX per Se, (and there are some noteable differences), but it does provide an excellent overall "flavor" of what has to be done, and definiately does apply in many areas. There are several options on motor/transmission mounts from making your own to buying them from MSA or John's cars in Dallas. Think the bottom line is there are several very helpful and knowledgable "ZX" people here who will help you along the way as specific problems come up. It takes time and money, but the end result is more than worth the effort! Good luck. Dan

Guys: I was heading the same direction and bought a Painless Lockup kit from Summit for my 700R4. The transmission guy I took it to told me it wasn't necessary, charged me $90. and my lock-up works great. The only feature I don't have is a release of the lock-up when you hit the brake, but other than that it works the same as my Tahoe lock-up. I'm sure this isn't magic and any reputable transmission sho could do this. Good Luck. Dan

Looks like the "waterfront" has been generally covered on this one, but the answer to how the MSA mounts fit is: My HEI sets within 1/4 of an inch from the hood mount latch on my 83. There are two tabs on the front of the latch sticking out towards the engine and I had to use my handy-dandy Dremel to remove the one on the passenger side. I don't see how the engine could set back any farther in the engine bay at all. I had to massage the oil pan just a tad on mine (GM crate) to clear the power R&P housing in a couple of places. I have a GM "medium" rise aluminum intake with a Holley 770 CFM Street Avenger, with a drop base K&N 2" filter with an Xtream lid. I ended up putting a metal cowl induction scoop on the hood, but it would have fit without any hood modifications by using a "low" rise intake. Mine was real close as it was, but I did the hood as much for the induction of cooler air as anything. The most important aspect to me of how it "fits" is the driveline angle; which with some very minor tweeking of the trasnmission mount is right on!

frontera: Suggest you use the search option on this forum and type in 280ZX conversions and see what you get back. I posted a grocery list of the primary parts I used May 17 2001 Topic: ZX SBC Conversion using MSA mounts if it's still out there. There are several guys here who have gone thru a ZX conversion, and as far as I know, this is the best source of no-BS info. I finished mine last November on an 83ZX and these guys got me thru ALL of the various & unforseen problems that came up along the way. There are several options on the mounts from fabricating your own (several guys have done that) to buying them from MSA or John's in Dallas. I talked to John a few times before I decided to buy my motor mounts from Motor Sport Auto. John was helpful, but he admitted the Jaguiar conversion was his primary focus, and he hadn't done much with the Z conversions since he first put the kits together. His price is also pretty steep in my opinion. You are at the right place for help. Good Luck. Dan

80LT1: Give the parts guys a call @ 1-800-748-3791. They are helpful and can make sure you get the right ones. They can also give you the phone # if the Heddman warranty department if you go with ceramic and need a recoat on the drivers' side. The part# for my application (Fastburn 385) is HD685096. The price was $300.00 in April 2001.

80LT1 I'm using "D" port ceramic coated Heddman tight tubes on an 83ZX with power R&P. Passenger side fits great. Driver's side is another matter. Heddman re-coated it for $50. after it was "reborn"! Jim Pace (http://www.paceparts.com) and Heddman cut a deal and they were the only ones selling the "D" ports when I was looking around in 2001. Dan

DanH I'm using Heddman Tight Tubes and the passenger side fits without any modification. The drivers side had to be modified a lot! The two front tubes were cut about half way down the tube before the collector, and the rear tubes on the drivers side had to be removed at the flange, and re-fabricated so the steerting rod runs between the 2nd and 3rd tube (would that be cylinders 3&5?). The tubes are now extended by several inches and the collector is below the steering rod. My exhaust is (2) 2 1/2 exhaust pipes running thru 2 catalytic convertors into a flowmaster "Y" with dual 2 1/2s in and a single 3" out running over the left shaft to a Delta-Flow Flomaster in the factory location with (2) 2 1/2 tips. Looks factory and you really have to look to see a little bit of exhaust pipe on either side where it comes off the collector. It's a very simple and clean looking installtion. I have a Fastburn 385 crate with a 700R4, and used MSA mounts. The engine sits back about as far as it reasonably can, but I did have to "massage the oil pan to clear the R&P housing, and have the hood modified (cowl induction scoop that is an exageration of the factory hood countour) with a medium high rise GM intake and a 770 CFM Holley Street Avenger. My recommendation on the wiring is to figure out what you will need (I used the JTR manual as my source) and mark it as you are removing the wiring harness. (I ended up sealing my "needed" wiring in baggies, so I could hose down and detail the engine bay). I'm certainly no expert, but I'd be happy to answer any questions I can that would help you out. Sounds like you are on your way, and have ample time to get your car ready before the drivertrain is finished. I've finally gotten the bugs out of mine with a winter project of installing a cam-kit I got from GM that takes mine from 385H.P./385 Ft/ Lbs Torque to 430/430. You will also need to plan on spending some bucks on new springs/struts, to use that all that new horsepower. Good Luck.. Dan

Julian: Suggest you use the search option on this forum and type in 280zx SBC conversion. There is lots of good information available and help available on specific questions you might have. I used the MSA mounts in my 83 SBC conversion, and am happy with the result. Lots of options out there for mounts, but as Greimann pointed out that is a very small part of the conversion. Good luck. Dan

Why not buy a ZZ5 Fastburn 385 for 4k and spend another $900. for the Lt-4 Hot Cam and 1.6 lifters for 430 H.P.?

Walker: There are several converted ZX guys on this forum including myself. The range of what you can spend (or not) depends on how much work you can, and are willing to do yourself. The first thing most guys on this forum would recommend is buy THE Manual from a company called Jags That Run (WEB Site JTRpublishing.com). It's called Datsun Z V8 Conversion manual. It is a great sourch of information for you to decide if you can do this conversion yourself. It was written as a "Z" conversion manual and there are several differences in the Z and ZX, but do read it anway. The other source of excellent and most helpful info you already know about is on this forum. Use the search feature on general topics to find out what questions have already been covered. Many of the problems you run into will only be realized in the middle of what you are working on, but you can collect a lot of topical info and make a decision on whether you want to tackle this, or perhaps have someone do it for you. The cost range of this conversion can be a very broad range as well. I'd say one of the most important things is to start out with a solid car, and plan on spending a lot more than you originally budgeted. You will more than likely find the suspension will have to modified in order to use all that new-found power, and you can easily spend 2K on that aspect of the conversion; again depending on how much you can do yourself (or not). The end result can be a very-quick new car that looks like the old one you used to have! Good luck. Dan

DPG Hammer I have a Fastburn 385/700R4/390:1 rear end in an 83ZX, and it runs REALLY good with no problems. It is came relatively complete, is very streetable, had a one year parts guarentee, and cost around $4,000. You can see the specs at Jim Pace or several other WEB sites. As stated in another post, the addition of the LT-4 "Hot-Cam" kit with a roller hydraulic cam and 1.6 rockers puts out an honest 430 H.P. and 430 Ft. Lbs of toque with a 780 Holley. The cost for the upgrade is around $900. (also need taller valve covers because of the 1.6 Rockers). I talked to several engine builders, and their reply was universal... If you want 500 H.P.+ "call me" if not buy a crate! (Did I mention that it runs REALLY good! Good Luck. Dan

Ron: After a lot of though and searching of HYBRIDZ archives, I recently had an Eibach Pro-Kit installed on my 83ZX. I have Tokico adjustables on the back and non-adjustables on the front, and really like the result. It lowered it about an inch as they said it would. There are a few members out there who have some pretty strong negative opinions about the Pro-Kit versus Coil-overs, but it's hard to make a sweeping generalization about anything without knowing the exact use/application. My advice is to take a hard look at your use of the car and finances and make a deicsion based on that. My application is 430 H.P. SBC used primarily on the street in straight line accelleration. It corners well for what I want to do and to refute some of the forum-guys comments, definitely does not suck! I found them locally for $229. without shipping, so you may be able to beat the SHOX.Com price in your area. Good luck. Dan

Griemann: Hadn't considered the radiator cap pressure, and it isn't new. No crusties around the fill area, but a new radiator cap is an easy place to start. Thanks for the help. Dan

My 84-86 Camaro radiator barfs back a little thru the overflow tank on my SBC under high accelleration. The temp gauge doesn't indicate overheating, nor does the electric fan stay on any longer after I shut it off. There isn't any other indication of overheating either. It's a GM crate with the waterpump supplied by the factory. Could my radiator hoses be sucking closed? Any other thoughts or suggestions? Dan

azguy: The JTR mounts are not for a ZX. Lots of guys have made their own, and there are a couple of companies out there who offer mounts for the ZX. John's in Dallas and Motorsport Auto are the 2 I'm aware of. I have a converted 83, and used the MSA mounts. I did take a hard look at John's, and talked to him on the phone a few times, but concluded he was substantially higher for a few hoses and some clamps. I can tell that his "show-me-tell-me" primer is a total waste of money and time to read! Do read the JTR conversion manual several times. While many of the conversion instructions do not relate to the ZX, the overall philisophy and process are the same. Suggest you use the search engine on this site and search for John's mounts or MSA mounts to get other opinions. There are several guys on the forum who have converted ZXs who will help you along the way. My conversion has been running since last November, and got lots of much needed help here. Good luck! Dan

Supernova: By the way, do yourself a BIG favor and buy the JTR manual. There are lots of things that do not apply to the ZX, but it is an invaluable source of philosophy, and general information. The motor mounts are really a minor aspect of this conversion. Good luck. Dan

Supernova: Agree with everyone. My best suggestion would be to mark all the wiring as you take it off. I wrapped it together, put them into several baggies and sealed each with duct take while I detailed the engine bay. It takes some time to do that, but you end up savng a ton of time in troubleshooting on the other end when you are trying to get everything to work. As you see by the response, there are enough ZX conversions out there with everything working to get troubleshooting help when you get to that point. Dan