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I have Heddman Tight Tubes with Fastburn 385 angle plug heads (they are different than a ZZ4) and have not had any problems with the wires or boots getting too hot..

I seriously looked into John's Cars before I bought the MSA mounts for my 280ZX in 2001. I talked to John a couple of times, and during the conversation he admitted that "Z" conversions were really not his preimary business; Jag conversions were. I asked to stop by during a planned visit to my brother's in Austin, but he discouraged me from doing that. I later found out from someone on this forum who had visited that he had an old shit-bob Z sitting out in the back that he had done many years prior. He was nice enough to talk to, but his primary interest was selling me everything for what I remember being around $700-$800. My final impression was he was just tring to make a buck, didn't have a lot of substance behind his first pitch, and couldn't answer some pretty basic questions. There are some guys on the forum who have purchased his "kit" and you should be able to get some feedback thru the search medium. Having said all that, the LS-1 "kit" has to be new, and perhaps he realizes there is a market out there and has changed his philisophy a bit. That would be great since he is not a dumb guy. Also don't know if he still sells the "tell me show me" $20. pre-cursor, but if he hasn't substantially changed that, it was total dog-shit. I threw mine away.. Good luck...

007fastz: I have an 83 with a SBC and 700R4 that's been running for a couple of years. The JTR manual was useful, and the non-applicable areas (motor mounts for one) were less important than the insight into the conversion process. Suggest you use the search feature on this forum to gain more insight into those general topics where it doesn't apply. You will also find very specific "problem" information to help along the way in addition to enough guys who-have-been-there to help you in about any situation that comes up. In addition to planning on spending more money than you expect on the conversion, you will also need to seriously consider suspension upgrades. For starters the OEM rear suspension will bottom out under accelleration. The opinions on how to solves that cover a broad range of solutions. One of the things I found helpful when digestiing the wealth of helpful real-world what works info, was my application. I have a 430 HP "version" used more as a street toy as opposed to serious handling. My Eibach springs and Tociko struts suit my situation very well. Other guys are happy happy with coil-overs enabling them to use even larger tires. Good luck, and do get the JTR book...

Guess it depends on whether it is a "Z" or "ZX". I used the MSA mounts in my 83 ZX with Power R&P and the driveline angle was almost Zero %, and the motor couldn't set back any further.

I just listed a Fastburn 385 hydraulic Roller in the buy/sell section..

VinhZXT: Thanks. Finally got the info locally that tells me the same thing. Still waiting for the "replacement" stub axles but that is another story. Appreciate the response.. Dan

I have a 2930LBS ZX, 430 H.P. SBC/w 770CFM Holley Street Avenger, 700R4, 390:1. 17-19 on the highway. In town 10-12. Both calculations were semi-normal driving and not getting into it toooo much..

Thanks guys. As always lots of useful info... These stub axles do have the nuts with the large flange. The guy who removed them was obviously a booger with a very large hammer. They had another set of turbo stub axles and supposedly sent them late last week. I could probably save both of these in an emergency, but I paid a premium and expect them to make this right.

007fastz I'm in Dayton. I have an 83ZX SBC..

Guys: I bought a set of CV joints from a salvage yard in another state and when I received them the stub Axle threads were trashed. I have an 83 280ZX non turbo. Can I use the stub axles that are in the car now instead?? Thanx

milmascaras: I don't believe the Quicksilver fits a 700R4. The application chart chart covers the 350 and 400. I have a console model Megashifter (82-92 camaro/firebird) with my 700r4. It is mounted in the same location as the stock shifter and doesn't stick up as far as the universal model. I believe a Hammer shifter will work on a 700r4 as well. Good luck..

PhaTTY: You might want to consider a crate motor from GM Performance Parts; or for that matter one of the other vendors like Edelbrock. I started out with an 88 Caprice COP car as a donar and planned on rebuilding the engine. After countless conversations with engine builders, and guys with crate motors, I spend $4000. on a FASTBURN 385 (385 H.P. and torque) and then another $800. for the "HOTCam" and now have 430 H.P. and torque. You can buy an H.O. 350 crate with 330 H.P for around $3000. as I remember. That will put you solidly in the 13s... There are tons of options that area all directly proportional to how much money you want to spend, and how much of the work you can do yourself. I agree with one of the guys' comments on buying the whole car and scraping the rest. I ended up scavenging little things like wire connectors I never gave a lot of thought about until I needed them. Ended up looking a lot more professional and easier to troubleshoot in the beginning.

PhaTTy: Lots of good advice from these guys. I'm running an 83, 430 H.P. SBC in the low-mid 12s on street tires "rolling out", so 13s is not a big problem at all with even a moderately built SBC. I did end-up spending more on my 700R4 in initial price and upgrades than it would have cost to buy a performance version up-front. You also need to factor in suspension modifications because you will have a rear end squat and bottoming out problem with stock suspension. The fuel injection advice is good, but I am running a Holley Street Avenger 770 CFM and like it a lot. I very easily passed my emissions test with a carbuerated GM Crate motor. Also suggest you use the search feature of this forum to collect all the lessons learned that will be invaluable. Don't remember if anyone suggested buying the Conversion Manual from Jags-That -Run, but in my opinion it's a must read. Lots of the info pertains to the "Z" as opposed to the "ZX". but it is still a great sourch of info and inspiration. You project costs depend greatly on your skills, and what you have to "contract-out". You will more than likely spend more than you expect, but the result will be a transformation of you ZX that will undoubtedly put a toothy smile on your face everytime you drive it. Good luck

thepenguin99 I used the MSA motor mounts and trans bracket for my 83 SBC/700R4. I'm happy with the result. The driveline angle is correct, although the template for modifying the transmisson bracket was dog-shit! I passed that along to the MSA folks ( in a little more politcally correct way), and am not sure if they have fixed it or not. You don't need the hood latch bracket for the ZX. You will need to remove the passenger side "tang" from the factory hoot latch bracket if you have a HEI distributor. The motor mounts put the engine a little higher than some of the other ZX guys have worked it out with other mountings, and you will have to modify the hood if you are using a medium or high rise intake manifold. Mine is done in metal a la 69 Camaro Z28. It's not obtruse, and allows for good air flow thru the engine bay. I returned the "universal" kick down braccket to them because the quality was marginal, and used a Lokar. I used their speedo cable, and it works fine. You can order/buy the driveshart adaptor locally from any decent parts place (Neapco 2-2-899-1) for around $25. as I remember. Use the search feature in this forum for unique ZX conversion questions, and it will serve you very well. Also, order the Jags That Run Datsun conversion manual and keep it in the bathroom for a couple of months until you are ready to say you are ready. Plan on spending a lot more money than you project, and also plan a suspension upgrade as part of the conversion. Mine is not a daily driver, and was "down" for 10 months. Do mark the wiring harness before you remove it. I used a lable maker, sandwich baggies, and duct tape while I hosed-down/detailed the engine bay. Good luck Dan

Guy: The 2 rear tubes were removed from the flange and modified to go around the steering shaft. The front tubes were extended and they all mate up with the collector below the steering. I sent it back to Heddman and they charged me $50. to ceramic coat it again. Dan

Jim Pace sells a Heddman block hugger for "D" ports. I have a set, and the passengers' side fits without modification. Driver's side was a different story on my 83 ZX with power R&P.

Enovacek: I have an 83 ZX conversion that I've been driving for about 18 months now, and am still elated. It is still not 100%, but part of that is by design. There are several very well done ZX conversions out there. Suggest you use the search function of this site to learn as much as possible. The JTR read/read/read/read suggetions are great advice even though some of it pertains to the "Z" only. The JTR manual gave me the confidence to take this project on, and for that it was worth several times the price. I posted a grocery list of piece/parts I used, and haven't changed much from the original. I have upgraded the springs, struts, went to a bigger cam, and am thinking about Nitros, but the original plan conceived from the JTR manual and help from guys on this forum worked very well for me. My grocery list was in a posting around May or June 01 and the topic was ZX SBC conversion using MSA mounts I believe. At any rate, I'd learn as much as I could and then start the budgeting/planning/part collecting process. Plan on suspension upgrades as part of the process, and do take a lot of pictures to reflect from time to time during the project from whence you came! Suggest you pay attention and mark the wiring harness as you disassemble. I used markers and put them in sandwich baggies wrapped with duct tape while I detailed the engine bay. Saved me a bunch of time on the other end. There are enough "learning curve" experiences here on the forum on various problems you will encounter that will save you a lot of time and frustration. Good luck. Dan

280zxt: I have an 83ZX/350/SBC with "D" Port angle plug heads with Hedman Tight Tubes. The two rear tubes had to be removed from the flange and rerouted around my Power Rack& Pinion shaft. Works great! I sent it back to Heddman and they re-ceramic coated it for $50. as I remember. Good luck. Dan

ARIF: I have an 83 SBC/700R4 combination using Eibach Pro Kit, Tokico adjustable rear, non adjustable fronts, and like the set-up real well. My application is for the most part straight line street, but it does handle well in the corners too. The ride is a bit stiffer than stock, but not hateful. The "squat" is definitely gone; which was a primary consideration for me. There are guys on the forum who love-em and others who have disparaging remarks. Think it really depends on how you will be driving. You would be more limited as to rim/tire size with the "regular" coils as opposed to Coil-overs, but there are a ton of opinions both ways. Good luck.

M35514h: I have a B&M Console style Mega-shifter that looks pretty much factory in my 83ZX. I made the mounting brackets for the tail shaft of the 700R4 from 1/4X1 stock, and works great including neutral safety switch. Good luck.

grumpyvette: I without a doubt echo your technical "Trained-eye"/expert opinion from a mash the motor/tar burner perspective. I have a direct example of before and after performance for 2 Fastburn 385s in totally different cars. We both went with the same parts Lt-4 "Hot Cam" kit with a noticable difference in the post-cam seat of the pants rides. He subsequenly went back and took the time to "dial" it in with a noticable performance plus! Your words are well spoken, as usual! Dan

Greimann: Thanks for the reply. I've looked at several threads on CV versus U-joints, and appreciate what everyone has said about the benefit of the CV Joint operating better at a more aggrevated angle. The discussion threads have convinced me to replace the Half Shaft/Ujoint hardware in favor of C.Vs in the next year or two but wanted to replace the U-joints this year in the interium. I am running BFG radial TA 215x70x14s on the back, and as on your car I'm sure, fire them up at will. If you know anyone wanted to see a complete C.V. set, I'm would be interested regardless of when I might use them. Thanx Dan

Guys: I'll be changing the U-Joints in my Half-shafts this winter in my 83 280ZX (430 H.P. SBC) and wanted your opinions on the good and bad! I haven't had any problems with the OEM's on it now, but it's time for new ones. I used Brute Force on the driveshaft without a problem, but I remember the JTR guy talking about how strong the Datsun factory U-Joints were. Any experiences good or bad would be appreciated. Thanx Dan

80Lt1: I installed an Lt-4 Hot Cam kit in my Fastburn 385 this year. I paid $522.83 for the Cam Kit (part# 12480002) consisting of Cam, Rocker arms, valve springs, caps, keys and shims. The Roller lifter Kit was $187.31 (part#12371042). Pretty cheap parts considering the potential 40+ horsepower gain, and the extensive GM engineering behind the peice/parts kit. Dan

Greimann/John: Thanks for the insight. I did think it odd that the spike and corresponding drop happened in such a relative short period of time; and understand the point you guys are making about reasonable heat dissipation. I'm not sure how I might still have air trapped in the system but your comments about the upper hose sucking closed makes sense. I'll syphon some of the coolant off and refill to try and remove any trapped air. Either of you guys running the Black Magic fan, and if so have any problems? Dan