danc

DanH: I have Heddman Tight tubes on my 83ZX with Rack& Pinion and the drivers side header has major modification. The last 2 tubes were removed from the flange and refabricated so the steering rod is running thru them with add-ons to the front tubes. The collector is now down around the oil filter boss. Looks more like a normal long-tube hedder. By the way, the Heddman folks re-ceramic coated the hedder for $50. Dan

Greimann: It is a small world. You've done a good job keeping up with the rust! I bought mine here locally from Dick Osman's in Centerville early 1985 with 3K miles on it. Almost stopped driving it the last several years since it was such a performance pig, but the conversion has definitely changed that! It's never been in the snow, garaged and covered most of the time. Fortunately very little rust, and a good bud as a body shop owner for the touch-ups I've needed. I'll pick up a couple of the panhard bars for sure. I'm still on the fence on suspension; waffling between coil-overs and Eibach or TRW progressive rate springs. I like the height you cars sits. How do you like the Eibachs? Do you have the "Pro-Kit" springs? The opinions on coil-overs versus OEM type springs are all over the board depending on application I'm sure. I still have the factory 14" 6 spokes on mine, but have a set of the turbo wheels like yours. Don't plan on going over 225's, and my driving is primarily straight line. Are you satisfied with them? Does your ride height changing depending on load? Did they help the rear end squat? I'm leaning towards the Eibachs, but any opinions you might offer would be very helpful. I did purchase a pair of Tokico Illuminas from British Victoria for the rear since they are no longer made. If you ever get back this way, let me know.. Dan

David: I agree, nice car, and detail! Thanks for the additional info. I've noticed a few guys having the strut tower to firewall brace, and it does make sense. Is your custom made, or do you have a part#. I have an 83 with a Fastburn 385/700R4 that's been running since late November that I'm trying to find time to work the bugs out of! What kind of suspension do you have, and what size are your tires? Thanx Dan

Zmaize: I have an 83 with T-Tops running a SBC. I was concerned about twisting the body piece/parts and installed a strut bar across the front strut towers. Plan on doing the same across the back ones too. I'd be interested to know from a structural engineering perspective if a "T" top car is substantially weaker than a non "T" top car. I would suspect not. Dan

Danh: I have an 83 SBC with Power R&P and used Heddman Tight Tubes. Passenger side fits great. Ended up taking the drivers side hedder apart at the flange for the 2 rear tubes and ran the steering shaft between them. Matched them up with the front tubes to the collector at frame rail height. Heddman did a ceramic recoat on it for $50. Went with 2 1/2 pipes back to a "Y" with 3" out to a flowmaster Delta Flow in the original postion. Looks stock from the sides and back! Good luck.. Dan

Phantom: I'm running a Fastburn 385 with dual 2 1/2 in and out Catalytic convertors to get through the E-Check here in Ohio. That's all I did, and my car passed all measurements on the very low side. Dan

Guys: I've read several posts, but am still confused. I have a non-turbo 83 and have a line on 82 2 Turbo half shafts/CVs with the companion flanges, but without hub flanges/stub axles (car is already scrapped). Will the CVs fit my 83 using my stub axles with the turbo companion flange??? Thanx Dan

280zxt83: I have a recently converted/running 83 with a Small Block Chevy Crate/700R4 automatic transmission with Motorsport Auto mounts. I talked to John a few times and concluded that I wasn't getting much of anything for a lot more money over MSA. There are some of ZX conversions out there. I have a post from last year (something like ZX conversion using MSA mounts) that is a grocery list of what I used. MSA instructions are pretty sketchy and missing some key info (such as dimpling the oil pan to clear 2 areas in the Rack & pinion steering. I also ended up having a minor drive-line vibration which was easily correcty by trimming the transmssion mount about an eight of an inch. At any rate, do read the Jags That Run Datsun V-8 Conversion Manual about a hundred times. The guys on this forum can and will help you thru the problems as they come up. The result is the car looks the same, but travels at semi-warp speed! Good luck.. Dan

ellobo97: I used Lokar Throttle and T.V. cable on my 83 SBC. Had to bend the gas peddle a little to get full throttle, but it works great. Dan

My 83ZX non-Turbo,5 Speed,GL has a 3:90:1.

350ZX: Suggest you use the search option for 300ZX Conversions and you'll find there are some out there.

WhiskeyTango: I was leaning towards a John's Cars Kit until I realized his "extras" don't in any way make up the several hundred dollar differences between his kit and the one from MSA I used on my 83 ZX. I've talked to John at least 3 times on the phone, and while he was direct, I didn't sense any attitude at all! I bought his "Z Carstellme NON-Illustrated "Manual" and it is Dogshit! Buy the JTR manual, read it several times to understand the scope and cost of this project,ask a lot of questions on this forum, and use the search feature (MSA Mounts as an example)to wade thru the problems as they occur. Good Luck. Dan

80'280ZX: The JTR manual will give you a very good idea for the scope of the conversion even though it does not apply to the ZX in many respects. I have an 83 that has been running since last November, and the JTR manual (in addition to the guys on this forum) gave me the overall information I needed to tackle it. I'm using the MSA mounts, and am very pleased with the quality and fit. Check my entry from last May (ZX SBC using MSA mounts) for a grocery list of piece/parts I used. Good luck..

labrat: I have a recently converted 83 with an HEI distributor. The two wires I have hooked up are black with a white stripe to the Batt side of the HEI, and blue for the Tach side. Mine works fine. Dan

80'280ZX-Anniversary: I recently got an 83 SBC "converted" car on the road after 10 months. It ended up a whole lot different than I originally envisioned in time, money and effort. The cost is largely dependent on how much you do yourself, and obviously how much you spend on piece parts. I have a "post" 21 May danc Subject: ZX SBC Conversion using MSA mounts that has some general lessons learned that you might want to take a look at. There are several guys on this forum who have converted ZXs, and they have lots of good info, as well as other guys who are working on a ZX conversion now. I did most of the work myself, and while I'm not a mechanic, I do have an engineering background. Read the JTR Conversion manual (several times), and as some of the other guys have said realize this is a major undertaking and effort, and you will likely spend a whole lot more than you expected. Having said all that as a very real caveat, I would without question do it again! Good luck.

I'm using Heddman Tight Tube "D" ports with Aluminum Vortec heads that have angle plugs without a problem.

83ZX350: Suggest you use the search option and check out some of the ZX specific posts out there that might help answer some of your general questions.

My 83 non-turbo 5 speed is a 3.90:1. Great launch with a SBC and a 92 g series van/700r4.

Ross: Thanks for the good info/suggestions. Struts are new, so I'll start looking at springs. My setup is a crate 350/385 H.P. Got the "hot-cam" 430 H.P. kit, but will wait until next spring to put that in. Understand what you are saying about non-functioning suspension. I'd like to keep it as "ride-able" as possible and that obviously means compromise on handling. I do appreciate the info! I'll have to check out your WEB site. I'll let you know when I post some pictures of my 83. Trying to sort out a charging problem right now. Got it hooked up per JTR; the thickest ZX white wire running the external plug (back) of my 1 wire, and the thick wire running from the alt pigatil plug the the battery + post, but it's still not charging. The alternator is good, and so is the battery??? Battery charge lasts for about 15 minutes, so I haven't had a chance to see how the crate motor even runs yet. Sounds like you have an awsome set-up. How long have you had it together? Any 1/4 mile times? What is your engine H.P.? No snow here in Dayton, Ohio yet. It's been in the 60's! Dan

Just got my 83ZX on the road, and as expected, have a lot of rear end squat under accelleration. What brands/part#s of springs and struts have you "ZX" guys used to improve that problem? My application is more straight line accelleration as opposed to cornering. I'd really like to keep the ride height as close stock as possible, and am looking for a compromise solution in handling and ride-ability. R front and rear strut tower braces worth the effort? Thanks for all the help over the last several months to get this thing on the road. Dan

83ZX350: I just got an 83 SBC conversion on the road less than a week ago that I started in Feburary this year. (Now I are one)! Still have a few things to sort out, but it looks "factory", has around 430 horsepower and will undoubtedly be very fun, and a great metamorphosis of a car I've had and pampered since day one! I'm not a mechanic per se, and the only things I "contracted-out" were the driver's side hedder modification, exhaust fabrication, driveshaft modification, and the hood scoop! Everyone would tell you to read/re-read the Datsun Z V-8 Conversion Manual (http://www.JTRpublishing.com). The philisophy should give you enough confidence to take this project on, but many of the "tips" do not apply to the ZX, starting with the motor mounts. I have a 17 May post (ZX SBC using MSA mounts) that might offer some help. (As it turned out I didn't need/use the painless 700r4 lock-up kit, but everything else is pretty much the same). I'd be happy to provide whatever help I can. There are a couple of other "ZX" conversion guys who have lots of experience and will help you out! My first piece of advice (if your car is solid)is to get a 1983 280ZX service manual (Haynes in comparison to the factory manual is dog-shit in my opinion) and label all the wiring as you dissassemble the L28 fuel injection harness and accessories. There are tons of wires you don't need, and it would be a nightmare to sort out unless you speak fluent "Z" wiring. My wires went to the right "places" witout a problem. The only thing that isn't working is the temp gauge and I believe it's a bad sending unit. The range of dollars you spend on this conversion is as wide as your budget will allow. My "ending" engine configuration isn't close to what I had envisioned at the start. Whatever your budget, plan on spending more than your first vision. Guess the important aspect of this whole thing is to think a lot about what you want the end result to be, ask a lot of questions, and be realistic as to how much money and time you are willing to commit. Good luck! Dan

gbvol54: I'm using the MSA motor mounts, but there is enough room between the fuel pump and motor mount on my 83 "ZX" for a "9 O'clock" 3/8" inlet position if you use a 90 degree fitting. Holley sells them thru Summit or Jegs and they have a gradual bend. Some of the other fuel pumps won't work because of the inlet position (ones with the inlet on the bottom should) but mine is an AC Delco (Part# 12355612) street performance pump rated at 110 GPH. Your'e right about eleminating the safety switch and fuel pressure regulator.The only other issue you have to consider is the return vent to the tank. It has to be open for the fuel pump to work because of the vacumn created. (Figured that one out the hard way)! I got a 3/8" brass "T" and ran the vent into the line from the tank! I'm sure I was doing something wrong on the safety switch, but this way seems a lot safer to me anyway. Some of the later model SBCs don't have the lobe to run a mechanical fuel pump, but I have one of the crate/service motors, and they all have that capability (at least the ZZ series thru a Fastburn 385). Good Luck.. Dan

Labrat: Can't help you with the JTR moounts, but I used the MSA mounts in an 83 ZX that worked well. They come with new Datsun mounts and the Chevy adapters as well as the transmission mount. The engine sets back as far as it can against the firewall. I had to trim one side of the hood latch plate on the firewall for the HEI distributor, and massage the oil pan slightly on my GM "ZZ" series crate where it was almost touched the power Rack & Pinion housing in 2 places. I'm using a medium high rise intake manifold with a Holley and a 3" K&N filter, and ended up putting a cowl induction type "scoop" on the hood. Believe you would be O.K. with a low rise intake manifold but I'd think about some method of getting cooler air into the intake since it is so close to the hood anyway. Sorry I can't help on the JTR, but this is one solution I've used recently that worked well. The JTR manual is an excellent source of info, but some of the specifics do not apply on the ZX. Couple of examples is you can use any standard starter as well as a manual fuel pump. Only thing I needed to do on the fuel pump inlet side was use a 3/8" nipple that had a gradual 90 degree bend. Good luck Dan

Miles: Holley makes one too #12-810. It is energized by the solinoid as opposed the ignition like the Summit. I ended up going with a mechanical fuel pump, so I have a GM electric (#25115899 (Carter)) and the Holley safety switch if anyone needs it! Dan

Guys: I remember a thread discussing Turbo Half Shafts in a V-8 application, and it was mentioned that all (I think) 2+2 Half Shafts R the same as the Turbos. Can anyone confirm or dispel that? Thanx Dan