Fuzzydicerule

I cant even begin to describe how accurate this is

Got an airdam and spoiler

My Christmas presents to Me finally showed up I got a Nardi Classic/NRG Quick Release Setup. Unfortunately The Part they had listed for "260/280Z's" is the same as for 240sx's... Sadly, they are not the same. I bought a Grant Hub with a nardi adapter today. The Z Logo Mahogany Shift knob, I bought along with my Type 1 Airdam and BRE Ducktail from MSA. I also got a Tach and GPS Speedo from Speedhut last month, and got those installed in the stock Bezels Airdam installed (checking fitmet/photo op, its coming off the next time i work on the car as the drivers side fender is not bolted up. Why you may ask, scroll down a few pictures. BRE Ducktail Installed. Both the airdam and this were sanded and painted with Duplicolor bumper coat. The airdam will get redone eventually as it has quite a few imperfections, but the spoiler looks damn good This is why i had the Drivers side Headlight bucket and fender unbolted. As you may be able to see. The Toe board has been excavated to make room for the Floor mount pedals. Everything is tacked in at this point. Im going to fab up a few more braces and then get it finish welded and skinned. But the Pedals are Mountable and i got the Brake lines bent and mocked up today. Once the drivers side floor is done i can get it so it can stop on its own... The Double wide crossbar is a footrest for the slightly higher than stock pedals, i think im going to add another one or two to the front, it doesnt quite go far enough forward... Lastly, you can seen the seat frame i fabbed up, its to mount the Generic Racing seats you can find at any O'reillys (no pics sadly) but with them mounted about an inch off the floor (versus the stock 3 or so) the seat bottom is about the same as stock, and i have the ability to properly run harnesses.

You know you own a DATSUN when you spend a month and a half completing a project, and are ready to start something that is critical to the operation of the vehicle, and then you decide something else menial and unneeded is required

You know you own a Datsun when you have replaced the (insert peice of metal here)

My L28 is bolted up to a Series 1 4 speed with a fidanza 240mm Alum. Flywheel and an ACT 6 puck (both meant for a 280zxt, i.e 5 speed), works absolutely fine

theres a decent full car pic of the color

only one pic sadly, this is the only one i have of it in its current condition. this is (obviously) with the tiger teeth painted on the side, and after i cut the tokicos to get it to not be a truck Color(s) are Krylon Olive Drab green (the camo color, buy it at any parts store) Duplicolor Satin black, DC Satin white and DC Dirt Red Primer on a side note, You may notice that the Lower valence is not in place, The fender is actually just hanging at this point, i have it off because im doing some(lots of) work to the pedal box)

decided to ditch the ratty stock knob and buy this i decided to grab it because i bought one of these, and wanted a better match (not going to be perfect, but better than the old one

My 72 is painted Krylon Olive Drab green (from their camo color selection) unfortunately these are the best pics i have of the color, ill snap some better ones when i leave for work in a few minutes and post them when i get home. Keep in mind that none of these were taken to showcase the color

dzus fasteners?

I bought a 280zx turbo oil cooler after the fact, and couldnt figure out how to get it to work the way i wanted, so i ended up buing the generic heavy duty one you can get from O'Reillys.. works just fine, however i had to buy an extra 30 dollars worth of fittings to switch the M18-1.5 Outlet and inlet threads to a 3/8NPT to run a hose barb...

Nice vid, but it looks like you may need some new rear bushings by the looks of it @ 53 seconds. Clean car though, it looks really good

Small update, my baddog rails and tstat housing showed up, and i took a picture of my Tilton floor mount pedals that im going to install (Masters should be in tomorrow, hopefully) Those guys are going in tomorrow and thursday, then i can start with my new wiring harness, hopefully someday soon i will be done =/ im trying to find a way to spend a gratuitous amount of money on speedhut gauges... im not finding that easy... although i think i just need the Speedo and tach for now...

ive got a stock, cracked and all around shitty wood knob, and i love it. if i change it it will be to something of the same style, to match the nardi wood grain im going to get eventually.

I suppose i should have asked this a couple of days ago before i remade mine, but i suppose hindsight is 20/20 Anywho, this thread is about YOUR aftermarket/Custom/Hand made Radio bezel and/or the fuse block cover. This is what i built on Friday. Im planning on redoing my Wiring, and i decided i dont feel like wiring my stock Multi-switch into an aftermarket harness, i decided to make some Centrally located switch panels. This escallated into 12 hours of blisters and cuts, and lots of rivets, but im really happy with how it turned out. I remade Both panels, The Radio bezel is laid out as follows. Top row: Horn button, Headlight switch, Hi beam switch. Middle row: Boost gauge, Buttons and the LED for the Wideband and the LC-1, Innovate Wideband AFR gauge. Bottom. Stockish sized radio cutout. Will be filled with a CB radio when i feel like buying a CB radio The lower is Top: Hazards, Turn signals (LED's below it are the Indicators, and the red is an E brake light), wiper (Up is going to be slow, Down is going to be fast. Bottom: 3 position lock cylinder (only used for On and Off), Power switch for the MS(will allow for no-spark and no fuel cranking, for comp. tests and such, and because i wanted at least one switch to flip when starting the car), and lastly is the Starter button. Here are some pictures. Radio surround. This one shows the 3 different planes of the bezel to get the gauges and the radio face vertical. My god it was a pain in the ass. Fuse cover. I did this first, and i love how it came out. The 4 rivets at the top are what is holding on 2 ears that allow it to pivot from the stock pivots so it functions like the original did. I need to make something to give it a bit more tension against opening because activating the upper switches tends to rock it forwards a bit, but otherwise, i think it came out perfect. Also, you can see my circular cutout for the Cut off switch that is going where the filler neck used to be (car has a Cell), that is done as well, just needs the mounting holes drilled and to be installed...

Heres a bad video that got turned upside down for some reason of the exhaust Ignore me and my friends being idiots, we were excited that it ran http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v236/BANDGEEK234/?action=view&current=IMG_0007.mp4

Been a little while since i updated, i kinda feel like im talking to myself here, but ill bear with it. Since my last update. I redid the wiring, AGAIN, but unfortunately, it seems a third time is in order, seeing as the Headlights and the windshield wipers both decided that all the time is a good time to be on... The motor is buttoned up. I finished smoothing the intake, got the turbo installed, got the throttle cable im using working, fabricated all the IC piping, Got a generic oil cooler from my Work and got that plumbed. Annoyingly, my thermostat housing cracked when tapping it for the GM CLT sensor, and i ruined my L24 part trying to to the same, and welding up the crack did not fix it. I got all of my MS wiring done for the engine and got it running well enough to move, still needs tuning badly but im going to leave that for another day. I got my exhaust all built, it consists of a Down pipe with 2 45* bends and a wideband, a flex pipe, a couple shallow kinks, a spiral flow by Moroso, and a 60" out the ass end. I got all the fuel system buttoned up and fought with fuel leaks for a week, but thats all said and done. Yesterday, I spend 12 hours custom making inserts for the radio bezel Area and the fuse block cover, and a Battery cut off panel for the old fuel filler opening in the 1/4, out of aluminum for a combo Gauge pod/Radio bezel/Switch panel, that ended in two very pretty, very functional panels, many cuts and many blisters Aside from progress, i also gave myself more to do in the next couple of weeks. A couple days ago i bought a full set of Bad Dog frame rails and a Thermostat housing from John. So obviously when those show up im going to be balls deep replacing my floor boards. My friend decided to pay me for future work (wiring his car, among the rest of the huge project his car will be [LS1 swap into a RHD Ta27 Celica]) by buying me an 8 circuit HotRod wiring harness. That was what prompted me to make the Radio bezel switch panel. So once the floors are done, The Third and final wiring job will begin. Lastly, the same friend had bought a set of floor mount pedals for his Celica, and found out that he didnt have the room, so he gave them to me. I decided the other day to buy some master cylinders for them, and install them when i redo the floors. So a TIlton Floor mount setup is in the works as well So yeah, the next couple of weeks is going to be really, really fun... So without further ado, here are some pictures First off, my engine roughly as it sits. This is with the exposed wiring before i bundled it, but you get the gist Here is the exhaust i built, Just the tailpipe obviously, but i have it tucked as high as i can get it, and it sounds pretty decent. and lastly, The Bezels i made Radio. Top: Horn-Headlights-Hi Beams. Center: Boost gauge, Misc buttons for the LC1 and A/F, Innovate Air Fuel gauge, Lower: Im planning on putting in a CB for shits and giggles, mostly because i dont want to wire/Install speakers. Fuse cover. Top: Hazards, Turn Signals, Wipers, Bottom: on/off key, ECU Power, Starter Button. The lights in the center are Two for the Turn signals, and the red is for the E brake warning.

Not really applicable to the title because there is no muffler in the tail section, but here you go Basically, this exhaust is setup as straight as i could get it. Its got 2 <45* bends off the turbo, obtuse enough bends that it comes within 1/8th of an inch of both the bell housing and the firewall. At the bottom of that down pipe is a 3 inch flex section, followed by a ~5-10* bend to contour it to the trans tunnel, into a Moroso Spiral flow muffler, Followed by 2 more 10* bends to snake around the diff support and diff as tucked as possible and exit under the differential straight, and then a 60* bend straight out the back I built this exhaust out of 6 components 1: a peice of plate that i plasma cut into the proper shape, Had it laying around 2: an O/R 2 1/4 inch DP off a mitsubishi starion, aquired for free, used only for a small straight section that is the first 2 inches out of the turbo, immediately expands to 3" 3: 2 4ft 3" Lengths of tubing, about 50 bucks or so 4: 1 UJ 180&60* Stainless Mandrel bend. roughly 50 bucks 5: Moroso Spiral flow. 30 dollars i believe 6: Flex pipe, iIRC was only about 50 This Setup would not be attainable on a stock car for obvious reasons. 1 Being the valence, as you may notice, mine has been cut. 2 The fuel Cell, i have it raised a bit into the cabin, and i doubt this kind of setup would clear the stock tank. but for a modified car for less than 200 bucks it works pretty damn well its not everyones cup of tea, i know, hell i never really liked it before, but i quite literally used every last bit of tubing i had, and i couldnt really afford to buy more at the time, and i like the way it came out...

Z-ya that's what I thought but I had read somewhere that pwm was only good for up to 4 cylinders... Moby. I believe my Pip or saw signal is not finding its way to the mega squirt, I am getting a tach reading. And I have fiddled with the timing settings in ms and had it run differently but every time I check it it reads at right below 10* adv

cam, i did your fix, no real way for me to know if it worked or not but i did it, and i also fixed the inability to shut the car off with the key, does anybody have any input on the other problems im having?

also, i found the answer to number 6. This is just a cheap way to fix a double post

im just in the process of getting it running, From what im reading, the problem with running Low Imp. injectors without resistors is that the amperage going through them is too high, and they overheat. does that capacitor fix that problem, or does it fix a different set of problems and can be compounded by doing that along with the resistors? As for the #5, like i said, im just getting it to the point of running, i noticed a HUGE improvement in the ability to do anything but stall when i switched to 6 alternating, and along that same topic, with it on 2, my VE table percentages were getting REALLY high while still not attaining good results, will there be any problem to leaving it on 6 pulses and tuning it that way?

First off, My setup Engine: L28ET F51/P90 long block Stock rotating assembly Stock Valve train and cam Shaved intake w/ KA24 Throttle body 2.5 inch flange-3 inch Turbo back Exhaust, flex pipe and single Moroso Spiral flow Fuel: Supra 440cc Low Impedance Injectors pallnet 11mm Fuel rail Walboro 255lph Fuel pump boost reference FPR Turbo: T3/T4 hybrid Isuzu NPR FMIC, full set of Hard pipes 14PSI Internal Wastegate Tial 50mm BOV ECU: MSII V3.0 Relay board GM IAT and CLT sensors, KA24 TPS Innovate LC-1 Wideband O2 Sensor EDIS-6, Chrysler coil pack DIYAT 36-1 Trigger wheel I think thats everything, but im probably forgetting something Now for the problems 1: No matter what i change my timing setting to, it reads at a steady 7-9 degrees advanced. Im guessing that my EDIS is stuck in limp mode. I currently do NOT have the Saw filter installed. could this be the cause of this? If not, are there any other possible causes? I have the PIP and SAW signals wired to the equivalents of pin 24? and pin 36? on the relay board (The ones listed G5 and TACH on the relay board) 2: in the Advanced Ignition settings. My trigger wheel setting keeps defaulting to 0 (no trigger wheel). i have tried setting it to 36 multiple times but it just defaults to 0. obviously the fact that its running means that this does not matter, but i do want to make sure. 3: should i have my basic ignition setting set to EDIS, or EDIS Multispark. i believe i currently have it set to EDIS multispark and "going low(normal) and it seems to work a bit better, but i was under the impression that EDIS is supposed to be multispark. i have the "skip pulses" set to 2, the base on the tune was 3, What is the benefit of changing this to one or the other? 4: INJECTORS: i have red a bucnch of contradicting info on using low impedance injectors. i do NOT have resistors in my system, i was under the impression that it would work fine by changing my settings, However, in reading, i found info that said this was only okay for engines UP TO 4 cylinders. does this mean i would be best off running resistors and changing the characteristics to high impedance injectors.? What would the part number of the resistors be? and can i get them somewhere local? 5: I have it to the point where it runs and revs okay out of boost up to about 50% throttle. this was accomplished once i switched to 6 injector pulses per cycle, as opposed to the 2 and 3 i was trying. is 6 the proper setting for this? it seems like it got the best results. 6: lastly, a little off topic, i wired in the stock 280zx turbo alternator, and i am having the problem where i cannot shut the car off with the key, does anybody know the number of the diode that i need to put into the alternator signal wire on the top pin of the T connector? I know theres more that i am forgetting, hopefully any input i can get can get me on the right track to getting these fixed. Thanks guys!

Hey jake, i saw your listing on the local craigslist. Sorry to hear that your selling her man. Any plans for the future?