Fuzzydicerule

To save you some future headaches, your plug wires are run wrong. 1 pack needs to go to 1 and 6, the next to 2 and 5, and the last to 3 and 4, you have them run 1-2, 3-4, 5-6

Hey guys, im in the midst of a turbo swap, and a concern just came to mind that i have quite literally NEVER heard any input on. My thinking is that, brake boosters are operated solely on vacuum, yeah, so whats going to happen when that diaphragm gets pushed the wrong way at 14psi of boost. Id imagine were only looking at the same psi of boost as the vacuum that the engine would pull normally at idle( about 1 atmosphere), but id hate to have that break or tear in the middle of a WOT pull and be stuck without power breaks. My friend came up with the idea of throwing a 1 way check valve on the line to prevent it from seeing + pressure, but another has a concern that this may still hinder the booster from working properly directly after a boost situation What do most of you turboed s30 guys do? Is the booster stronger than i am giving it credit for and i should just leave the line unchecked?

This is the truth. My only experience was an L24 with DGV's but holy hell was it slow, especially if something stops working properly, it is just a pain in the ass. I had to go nearly WOT to get anywhere, which would usually overwhelm my fueling system. Id imagine EFI will be less prone to sucking, but you already have EFI, just with a turbo, which in the right setup and application, can actually improve Fuel economy. ComicArtist, if i were you, i would get the car tuned (like mentioned earlier, possibly convert to MS), and get the little odds n ends figured out and fixed, and then see where youre at with the car as far as reliability and fuel economy goes, and then, if they dont meet your specs, do the swap, but i wouldnt be so quick to throw out the work you just did.

Skimattybee, you make me wish my car was blue...

The bamf flares are molded off of an original set of flares that were normal front, wider rear, and the maker custom made the fronts to match

they should be a 12 and a 14, i usually take the 14 on the nut(the rearward end,)and wedge or push the wrench on the crossmember or floor pan while turning the driveshaft by hand in neutral, usually works pretty well.

Your car is in the new issue of Import Tuner in the article about Wekfest, just FYI

Ive got konig rewinds 16x8 0's w/ 225/50/16 dunlop starspecs and my only issues rubbing are on the front framerails, i ribbed on the rear lip, bit a quick hit of the fender roller solved that. Those experiences were on tokico lowering springs, the car is currently out of commission and i cut the springs to get it lower, so i may have more clearance issues...

I didnt think about it, and im stuck at the an fittings part (mother of god i never knew they were this expensive.) I have the summit 20 gallong fuel cell.(24 length, 20 width, 10 height) and it fits like a glove. I welded two 1.5 inch square bars between the rear bumper support frame and the frame over the diff, and then 2 1 inch square bars in between those for a perimeter, and then i made Basically a basket weave of straps to hang it from that perimeter frame from some 1.5 by 1/8 aluminum flat stock. I still need to enclose it because i have it sitting up into the trunk a few inches to keep the ground clearance up.

Some more progress, got my trunk floor cut out and my Fuel cell hung on saturday (i still need to finish up the mounts, but its just about there) today I got my Isuzu IC and 280zx radiator mounted, unfortunately, thats about it, aside from starting to smooth my intake mani. I suppose i should throw in some pictures to make people reply to this thread... These are all i took, like i said, im practically allergic to cameras. Sadly, i found out later, the IC is a bit crooked, mostly due to my tweaked core support, and it hits the hood slightly, so im going to fudge the mounts to straighten it up and get it to clear tomorrow. In the next couple of days, im hoping to get the fuel cell all buttoned up, as well as get the motor back together and start running IC piping, and then wiring.

unfortunately on american manuals, Notchy and clunky=precise

Ive got a 2003 Cobra, and i used to have a 92 mustang. The T56 (at least in the mustang) feels almost identical. This is with a Pro 5.0 shifter, but its not a silky smooth transmission, but honestly thats the way i like it. TBH, the only way youre going to get silky smooth shifts is to sacrifice on overall throw and preciseness of the shifts

I figure its time for an update up in here (no pics currently, unfortunately, ill take some tomorrow of the current state of things In the three months since ive updated this, a couple things have happened 1: I have been driving the car, i was attempting to daily it, but the mileage and the reliability issues just werent cutting it, but i was driving it 2: I never put more than 5 gallons of gasoline in it, as i noticed when i got it that it leaked profusely when more than half full 3: i had a SERIOUS charging problem, somewhere in the system, causing the battery to die in as little as a night if left plugged in. This killed one battery (3 months old...) and when i put the new one in(and back in, after it happened again) the problem was gone for about 2 days, and if i didnt drive it for 3, it would die completely in a night). My guess is the alt was dying, which is convenient that i have one with the ET... 4: The fuel pump was dying. (This was confusing. This was by far the biggest problem with the car, and the two options were a dead fuel pump or clocked carburetors. Basically, and more and more frequently, the car would act as if it had NO power, and in revving actually sounded like my cobra does when traction control kicks on. Definately something wasnt right, usually happened after or durning hard (ish) acceleration On multiple occasions, pulling the pump out and priming it by hand did the trick, so im fairly certain that the fuel pump was faulty and the diaphragm was ripped) 5: Painted the car Olive Drab Green 3 and 4 left me stranded or nearly did on multiple occasions. So a couple of weeks ago i parked it im preparation for what i started on monday. I FINALLY got cracking on my L28ET Swap Monday the 12th: Me and my friend james started by removing the dash and the entire wiring harness(AGAIN), and pulling the L24 and 4spd. This went from attempting to pull the motor while leaving the trans in the car, to having to bolt them back together in the air because the input shaft didnt want to let go of the pilot bearing and pulling them out as a unit (which is what i should have done in the first place). That excursion left me with a destroyed transmission mount. And i had to buy a used one after finding out that i couldnt get one at ALL through my work. sadly, that is ALL we got done that day, despite plans for more... Tuesday the 13th: We didnt get started until about noon, mostly from being exhausted from the day before, All we really had time to do was remove the diff, Gas tank, stock fuel lines, and the differential. At this point, i was going to do a short nose R230 swap (friend has one and 3 CV's laying around from his abandoned project that hes giving me for doing some other work), unfortunately, i then found out all the other stuff i needed to do that swap, so my Open diff R200 is going back in. We also got around to degreasing the engine bay and getting it painted a nice flat black. Wednesday the 14th: i had to work that day, but i did get to spend some time getting my Boost and Fuel gauge mounted in the clock and Amp/Fuel gauge housings respectively. They look pretty good, albeit mismatched Friday the 16th: Today started fairly mundane, aside from getting a new trans mount in the morning, i had to go recycle a bunch of metal to get some more funds(i was down to 9 bucks after getting the engine mount) with which i bought some gear oil for the trans, and some radiator hoses. We didnt get started until about 3pm. I started by installing a new hockey puck and steering rack bushings(traded my friend a set of 440 supras for a master bushing set, hoping that will solve the rest of my unsettling handling issues, followed that up with buttoning up some stuff on the motor, and throwing that puppy in there. that took us until about 9 and that basically brings us up to date. Motor is in, sans the Intake, and the car is devoid of wiring in the front. Im a bit anxious to find out what is going to explode first, the Type 1 4 speed, or the open diff R200. with my driving, it could be either at any time. My bets are on the 4 speed, shaft play isnt good on anything, and that sucker has about 1/8 inch on the input shaft, so im not hopeful for that one Plans for the next couple of days include -Getting the intake somewhat smoothed, and port matching it to my KA24 throttle body -Redoing the Wiring harness and pulling out all the circuits and wires that are unused in the current system and -Reinstalling the previously mentioned -Wiring, wiring, and did i mention wiring. and lastly -BOOOOOOOOOOST. Refined setup F54/P90 L28ET T3/T4 14PSI internal Wastegate Tial 50mm BOV Supra 440cc Injectors Pallnet Fuel rail Izuzu NPR intercooler (a damn sight bigger than the starion intercooler) Megasquirt2 V3.0 with relay board and EDIS

Hey guys, im in process of doing my turbo swap, and was offered an R230 and 3 q45 axles for some work, so id like to compile the rest of the crap i need for the swap I understand i need the following 1: 280z Stubs. I will get this from a junkyard if need be, but its easier to just buy them i suppose 2: Modern Motorsports Companion flanges for said Stub axles 3: Modern Motorsports Half shafts 4: a SINGLE Q45 Half Shaft. i have 3, but one was damaged in shipping when my friend bought them, and therefore i need another 5: R230 Mounting solutions. I can fabricate these myself, but if someone has a kit, it would be useful 6: A longer driveshaft to use with a 4 speed and the R230. Thanks guys

Hi guys, im looking to buy a few loose ends i need to finish up my Turbo swap and get this ball rolling. First and foremost, i need 3 main things before i can even think about installing the motor 1: Turbo Oil Pan with drainback, preferably with a pickup as well 2; 280zxt Stock oil cooler, or an aftermarket peice that can bolt up the the stock sandwich at the block (i have the sandwich and banjo bolts, need a cooler and lines) 3: pallnet or equivalent 11mm Supra injector Fuel rail for the L series. I could also use -VR sensor compatable with MSII v 3.0 -EDIS 6 Module -Chrysler 6 cyl or equivalent Coil packs - 36-1 Trigger wheel for an L series The last 4 im planning on going to a scrap yard for, but if someone has a setup theyre willing to sell, i will be interested.

you play GT5 with that G25 wheel? i built a similar rig for mine recently, that **** is the most fun.

I didnt have to think about it, the answer was showing at the bottom of my screen...

It should be renamed "darius' mom thinks every corner at laguna seca is the worst" I laughed when he told her to shut up, that was quite humorous...

The two upper bulbs are running lights, the two outside bulbs are the brake lights/turn signalsand the inside lower bulb is the reverse

your right rear tire is backwards, just so ya know Those taillights are interesting, not my thing, but they do fit pretty well.

I just refer to the fronts as fenders and the rear as quarters, regardless of mounting keeps the confusion down. Anywho, clutchdust. Another peice of advice. Find someone with a TIG Welder to do the welding on the exterior panels. TIG welds are softer than MIG welds and are easier to hammer flat and will require less grinding and filler. the main reason i said to keep the welding on the exterior panel to the minimum is because of the hardness of the weld. Especially with mig welds, on a hot day, the panel will heat up, and the weld and the surrounding metal will heat up at different rates, and the seam where you welded WILL be visible(but will disappear when the panel cools off again). Tigging the seam, especially where you cross the c pillar, will lessen the severity of the effect, hopefully to the point that it wont be easily noticeable. Granted, doing this will require immaculate fitment of the patch, so migging may still be the better option

My personal reccomendation is to get a patch that will require the LEAST amount of welding on the exterior of the car. I replaced the quarter panel on my old chevelle by doing it on the body line and that was the number one biggest PITA ive ever had. The entire body line was bondo and i never got it looking close to decent If i were you i would cut along the window channel, through that small gap between the quarter window and the hatch opening, and then try to cut out the recessed portion into the channel so you may be able to spot/rosette weld that seam together. The less welding you can do on the exterior the better it will look in the end

That definately wasnt the problem. I had it aligned and when it was up on the rack i took a look under there and i couldnt see any reason for the problem. The closest possible solution is that the front passenger side brake line looks like it MAY be kinking but im not sure, but it most definately wasnt contacting the control arm

At first glance, i dont see how that would be possible due to the dust shield, but ill definately look into that

Hi guys. Im having an interesting issue with my brakes as of yet. I first noticed this after i installed the Toyota 4x4 4 Piston front calipers an the MM rear disc kit. It appears that under more than about 20* or so of steering angle, the front brakes start to drag and attempt to stop the car. This made it a bear to try and push about before i had it running, but at the time i assumed i wouldnt notice it while driving. I was partly right, its not terrible, but while turning tightly, i can hear and feel the front brake starting to squeal lightly. I have noticed that it appears to be worse while turning to the right. Does/has anyone else have/had this problem, and maybe have a solution. It is quite a nuisance I have another 72 im using as a parts car that appears to do this as well, but not as badly (stock brakes would answer that) This leads me to believe that it may be a common problem that more people experience. Any input is welcome.