Fuzzydicerule

glad i could be of assistance =)

ill modify the JCI mount, it shouldnt be an issue

Would you be willing to sell without the companion flanges for a bit less? I'm flat broke right now and I'm going I be replacing those anyway

I found out the fast setup doesn't use the knock sensors, woohoo! My intake can stay on. My fuel line crap came in today as well so I can make those tonight after work( where I am stuck now. :/. ) and the CORRECT oil pan shipped today, with any luck this thing will be in the car next week... I also took wrfritts' advice and bought a new slave, tob and pilot bearing today as well

Haha. Glad I'm not the only one. Once I get paid and sell the last couple bits from my l28 (still have about a grand worth of crap to sell) ill buy the mounting kit. I just need to find someone with 280z stubs

Not to worry, i assumed as much so i bought new ones. I see what you mean about the gasket, that was a pita, but its off so its whatever. I spent today getting the buildup cleaned off and then i reassembled the motor, unfortunately, your suggestion is too little too late, as its already reassembled with a set of fel pro gaskets. I have the top end reassembled, but after i got the intake torqued and the fuel rails, VC's and COil packs on, i realized i forgot to put my knock sensor plugs back in. >_< Before i go pull my intake im going to go verify that they are required with the FAST setup. Does anyone know that off hand? Annoyingly, i also bought the wrong oil pan (the motor has a GTO Front sump pan), i bought the first rear sump i saw, not realizing that truck pans wouldnt work. then i noticed the bolt pattern on the trans, and swore to myself. Aside from those two setbacks, the motor is basically ready to go in., just need to wait for my fuel lines and build those, and get the mounts. Annoyingly, im running out of money, so i cant afford my R230 swap parts quite yet, so i may need to wait even after i get the motor and trans in ...

It looks like if you extended the ass end after the glass it would give you the desired look

you could mount them a bit higher and build an airbox, something similar to the 2003 and 2004 mustang MAch 1 shaker hood. Basicallt have the velocity stacks terminate in a plenum above the intake, then either ome right around to the TB or go to your filter for ram air or something of the sort. With a drain vent of course...

Hey guys I am in need of some 27 spline stub axles for my r230 conversion, anybody happen to have a set laying around?

My ******* friends keep telling me to put boost on this one, but i dont think i will, i kind of want to keep it stock for a bit, although i dont know how long that will last. I Committed and bought it today anyway. I will probably modify it, but its gonna make life easier, i hate making engine and trans mounts... I went with the high mount alternator because it looks cleaner, and i dont want to have to extend my alternator wiring to the other side of the car... That and im using no other accessories and having the only two visible pullies be a tensioner and an idler is kinda lame. Im perfectly capable of building the mounts, i just dont want to... I hate all the level work involved and it is more tedious than i can handle. Im only building the headers because i dont want to spend a fortune, and i want longtubes. Ill be getting more done as soon as i can, so hopefully i wont be too far behind you on the headers, =P Dont you dare tempt me like that., I think i would get tired of that exhaust very quickly though, maybe if i do some mid- length headers i could hook up some cutouts to run up and do a fender exit like that though, definatly worth a thought, but i dont particularly plan on keeping this paint scheme anywho. AN isnt expensive heh? tell that to my bank account. ive got everything i need already coming though... Anywho. Updates. I spent most of the day at my local pick a part, and shittily, came home with nothing. I went to try and find a 280z for the stubs and one hard only had a single 240, and the other had an auto 280, which i understand still have the 25 spline stubs. and to top that off, i didnt have a large enough socket to fit any of the Q45's spindle nuts, so i couldnt source any axles either... it kind of sucked. After that i sent out my purchase order through JCI for the Motor and Tranny mounts. When i got home, i continued dismantling the LS to clean it out and reseal it, i got the heads off today, cleaned the carbon off the pistons and the combustion chambers, everything looks good, but i saw a couple things that unnerved me slightly, First off, the number 1, 5 and 4 i believe have small nicks in the face of the piston from what looks like the intake valves. the valves themselves are not damaged and seal on those particular cylinders. Anyone else notice anything like that on their motors? Second, the number two (and potentially some on bank 2, i havent done anything with that head yet so i dunno) valves dont seem to seal very well. I was using brake cleaner to clean dust and buildup out of the heads and noticed a dribble out the valves, both intake and exhaust on number two... It was not alot, but definately existant. Is this something i should worry about. I dont really have the fundage to go rack up a machine shop bill, nor do i want to wait for it. Im thinking i may just pull and lap the valves to the seats to see if i can get them to seal well on my own, and it will give me a chance to replace the valve stem seals... I almost dont want to bother because im thinking of upgrading the Heads/Cam/Intake on this motor down the road, so a slight bit of compression loss i dont think will be a gigantic deal... Anywho, i didnt finish reassembly obviously, but i got it as dismantled as its going to get, hopefully. With all luck, my Oil pan will be here tomorrow (ebay so probably not) and i know my Fuel system crap will show up, so i can redo my lines and get the undercar ready. To-Do List -Reassemble Motor, New gaskets and such. -Clean motor and tranny to be at least presentable -Make and install new fuel lines -Recieve and install Oil pan -Recieve and install TOB -3 AN Adapter, and make a line to meet up to my clutch line -Recieve JCI mounts -Install motor and trans -Button up fuel system -Install Wiring harness(es) -Build headers/exhaust -Purchase and install a radiator with hoses. -Install the R230 (bought my other CV's, Need to source Stub axles and purchase the Companion flanges and axles, and build mounts for it.) -Measure for Custom Driveshaft (john has said he can make one for the 6 bolt R230.) -Beat the snot out of it, something ive wanted to do since i bought it More to come, its my goal to get at least one thing done every day. Usually is after work, lucky for me i am an insomniac =P

Anybody have any input on the pros and cons of building my own trans mount vs getting the JCI one. Im for sure buying his motor mounts. i like that they are bolt in, and i hate making them. as far as the the trans mount, i heard tell that it is kind of flimsy. would i be better off just making my own out of flat stock or c channel?

Anybody have any input on the pros and cons of building my own trans mount vs getting the JCI one. Im for sure buying his motor mounts. i like that they are bolt in, and i hate making them. as far as the the trans mount, i heard tell that it is kind of flimsy. would i be better off just making my own out of flat stock or c channel?

Rebekah, you should be proud, your video of your inaugural burnout is what sealed the deal for me on the swap. Like not even koking, i was iffy on it, saw that video and was like "its happening" SUNNY: The cobra is my other car, currently my daily. my dads got a 1969 mach 1 which is under the cover next to it. Sadly the cobra gets to sleep outside for a while, but i think she will live. I just hope it doesnt rain, that thing needs tires badly... As far as the paint, im thinking of adding some battleship grey to the lower portion of the car, to get the kind of look Ratsun used on their 510 on their webpage. I should also point out one other thing. This swap is making me a hypocrate. (SP?) Since ive been familiar with these cars, ive always preached the 6 cylinder superiority, and thats the main reason i tried to stick with the L series. Hell not a month ago i was criticizing a dude who had an LS1 in a 280 (not aggressively, but i gave him that spiel. Shows how fast opinions can change, and i guess i will always have a secret place in my heart for V8's pus you cant argue with the fact that its no heavier and moves weight back...

Hey guys. i thought id drop in and start a build thread on here, as its a much better place to get good answers than the thread in members projects (which seems to get almost no replys, and im not sure why i update it at this point. Small BG I bought this car last year, and in october, put it under the theoretical, and literal knife for an L28ET swap. I got a bit too ambitious and lo and behold, the thing hasnt driven farther than down my street since then. So i decided its time to get a real motor in there that actually has some aftermarket support, and tech support. the car when i got it, after a couple mods (it was one color when i got it, and was on steelies), amd the car as of when i decided to go the route of my LS swap. all of that info can be found in my thread in the members projects section, and is not pertinent to anything here. and my fuel cell with a true statement A short rundown on my build Car: 1972 240z. Engine: 1999 Firebird LS1, Unmodded with a cable throttle, FAST EFI and XFI Controllers Transmission: 99 Firebird T56, Speedway -3 AN adapter. NOS LS1 Clutch and Flywheel, HURST Short Throw. Differential: 300ZXTT R230 VLSD Exhaust: Home built headers (gonna try for longtubes) with either Dual 2.5 or 3" pipes, or a single 3, Depends entirely on space constraints and availible funds. Fueling: Fuel cell, Walboro pump, AN lines (ow, my wallet), Generic FPR that i will probably end up replacing... The decision to LS swap it came after months of absolutely no luck in getting the L28 to run. On wednesday, 5/2/12, i was toying around with the idea of buying a Mitsubishi starion and LS1 swapping that to use as a daily driver, then i thought about it, why end up with yet another car, when i can just do the same to my Z. As it turns out, my good friend had an LS1/T56/R230 lying around, and at this point, i havent paid for them. he also supplied alot of the extras as well. So The next night, i went and picked it all up. Luckily it all fit in my families old crappy van with a bit of finagling. The next morning (Friday, the 4th if you were paying attention) I unloaded it all at my house, Unfortunately i had to work that day, so i didnt get much done, but i was able to start disassembly that night after we pushed the car into the garage (and forced my cobra out onto the street, sadface), i also spent alot of money, I got a -High mount alternator kit, -Rolled fuel line (to replace my 3 piece Parts store special hard line, -assorted AN fittings and Braided hose, - Exhaust flanges, and -Water pump bolts, as well as the -3 AN fitting for the clutch and some misc fittings for that. Motor on its stand in the garage, along with all the extra bits Le nekkid motor THe next night, i got cracking some more, got my radiator out and my fluids drained, got her up in the air and pulled the transmission (im fairly proud of that one, from the first bolt turned on the bell housing to the time it was out of the car was about a 15 minute job, and i was alone... only other thing i accomplished that night was undoing the engine mount bolts My two comparisons, i sent these to my friends labelled "theyre totally the same size" luckily the Z has a monstrous trans tunnel That paved the way for today, after i got off work, i got the motor pulled in about 5 minutes, and had it sold not 20 minutes after that, and got the R200 removed tonight. Tomorrow me and some buddies are headed to the local pickapart and im gonna look for some 280z stub axles for my R230 swap, and a honda wiper motor to replace the dud i got on fleabay. Im also planning on sending in my order for the engine mounts through JCI. and im going to do a bit of disassembly and cleaning on the LS1. Lastly, after this novel of a post, i have a few questions for yous guys. 1: I Have a 280zx Radiator that i was going to use with the L28. I asked Johns opinion and he said to replace it, but i was wondering if anyone else had any luck with a similar radiator, OR, Where can i find an inexpensive aluminum radiator that will fit the S30, and adequately cool the LS1. 2: IS there anything i may be overlooking My apologies for this potentially being incomprehensible, its 3 AM and i dont know how im awake...

Its your car dude, thats the brilliance of it, you can do what you like. That being said. Im in the same boat as most everybody else. Fake parts piss me off, and those annoy me in the same way that the LS' FRC's annoy me, or any engine cover. and if i saw that at a car show i would laugh and remember it as the car with the fake velocity stacks, regardless of anything else done to the car. That being said, words cannot describe how badly i want a set of ITB's on an LS1 with a Dat-Comp hood scoop, dat functional cold air. they do look like theyre well made though, i will give you that

I noticed a difference between the length of the driveshaft on my auto and my series 1 4 speed Anywho. The swap is very straightforward, just don't overlook anything and you'll be fine I've got a fairly new clutch and brake master cylinder if you need them s30kid

Not yet, I'll get around to it eventually but I need to get it running first

haha thanks man. I mostly did that because i have a Painless harness, and it was easier than wiring the stock multiswitch, i think im going to redo the upper part though, seeing as i dont need the AFR or boost gauges, or the turbo timer.... Also, good news Sal, i should have the motor out tomorrow. I worked on it after work today and got the trans, hood, and radiator off, and literally all i need to do at this point is hook up the chain and pull it out. Anywho, thread stuffs. Im debating fabbing my own mounts, or just buying the JCI kit. im kind of broke at this point from spending gratuitous amounts of money elsewhere, but then again i should be getting some back once some parts sell *cough cough, the motor, cough cough*

Also, my friends are being terrible influences and telling me that i should throw the T3/T4 on the LS1. Opinions?

The only time the car has moved in 2 months was from in front of my house to my garage, and that was earlier tonight... I know of at least one other Green Z in encinitas that has tiger teeth, but the teeth are small and its a very dark green, no air dam or spoiler either. that will be weird if i have a twin though. I was really hoping to keep the L series. Like i said, I MUCH prefer Z's with 6 cylinders. I actually gave a guy some **** a couple weeks ago for having an LS1 in his 280, so i guess im a hipocrate now. If it ran better(or at all, lol) i would keep the ET, but at this point, with the deal i am getting on this motor, i cant really pass it up. On a side note i just forked over the cash for an Alternator bracket, Some header flanges, and yet more Fuel lines... Yay Next on the list is gonna be a JCI Mount kit, but that will come after some more of my L series crap sells, im getting down on funds and i have to buy a head set for the motor BTW if you dont know LS motors, a head set (top end gaskets, not even including the Timing cover gasket, is 175 Bucks. Luckily i work at an oreillys so my discount helps alot, but still, thats ******* expensive I also spent a couple hours tonight pulling the car apart. I got the I/C, piping, turbo, intake, oil cooler, and exhaust out. Heres my new motor, in my van, like a boss. I really have to give my friend james a big thanks. Like i said, im not getting it for free, but i dont have to pay for it right now either, so its making this process WAY easier, at least for now. He also gave me an R230 that he had from when he had a 240, which was in the front seat. I think i tweaked my back carrying a 115 lb transmission and a 130 lb diff by myself =/ I also got a FAST EFI and XFI setup (fuel control and ignition control, Fuel being self learning, so all of the problems i was having on the L will be nonexistant... WOOOT, as well as some cheapo Fabricated aluminum valve covers, NOS clutch and flywheel, Driveshaft for the yoke, etc, etc, etc

1. Year of motor/mods: 1999 Firebird LS1. Currently going to be bone stock with the exception of longtubes and some Trick Flow fuel rails. FAST EFI and FAST XFI. I MAY turbo it but im not sure 2. Tranny: T56 Out of the afformentioned firebird 3. Kit used or explanation of your custom mounts: Unsure of the direction ill be going. I will probably make custom mounts 4. Any special accessories or parts needed for the swap, including fuel, wiring, etc: single High mount alternator accessory system. Car has a fuel Cell and a walboro 255LPH fuel pump already. 5. Date you started on the project, date finished: Date started= i guess technically 5/2/2012, obviously its not finished as the LS1 is currently in my Van... 6. Other car mods (suspension, brakes, etc.) Cut Tokico lowering springs, toyota 4x4 Front brakes, S13 rear brakes, Tilton Floor mount Pedal set with 7/10 Masters, Summit Fuel Cell with a walboro 255 Pump. I am just now starting this project, but im aiming to get it done very quickly.

Its been a couple months since i updated this thread, so here is the basic jist of what has happened. -I got it starting and idling with the MS/EDIS setup -I could not get it to rev for ****, and i couldnt improve the way it ran, mostly a timing issue as it would jump between what appeared to be limp mode and something rediculous about every two seconds(when timing it would be at roughly 10* and then randomly the timing mark would disappear) -I decided the EDIS wasnt worth it, so i picked up a stock distributor. -After much frustration and realizing i had to rewire the ECU, Lo and behold the F**ker doesnt run anymore. and no matter what i did to the timing or basic fuel parameters, it will not start. It fires off for 3 or 4 pistons every couple seconds but it will not stay running. -and finally after months and months of abuse, my year old starter finally took a **** on me (bought it in may of 2011 when i first got the car, lasted through the L24, the L28 Brutally murdered it) That brings us to today. i put a new starter in it, in order to put a timing gun on it and try desperately for what feels like the thousandth time to get it running. what actually happened was i got sidetracked in two separate motor swaps (Helping my Cooworker fix her grenaded 305 with a 350, and helping my friend put a B16 in an Austin Mini). That basically brings us to today. I was contemplating buying another starion, and LS1 swapping it for a new daily after i sold my jeep this week. When i got to thinking, why dont i just LS1 swap the Z. Aside from the fact that i think it is blasphemous, and i have been trying to keep the sleek, 6 cylinder nature of the car, and the obvious extra work involved, i could not, and cannot think of a single reason to stay with the L28. Especially because my buddy with the mini has quite a bit of fundage, and just happens to have an LS1/T56 laying around for another project that is in a semi-stalled state. So we made a deal, i take the LS1 now, and i buy him another one when hes ready to finish his project Anywho, i guess that makes things obvious, My 240 is getting an LS1, something i said i would never do not 3 weeks ago, And if anyone needs any L28 ET parts, i will be posting up a For sale thread soon, and will obviously be updating the build thread as such.

Its been a couple months since i updated this thread, so here is the basic jist of what has happened. -I got it starting and idling with the MS/EDIS setup -I could not get it to rev for ****, and i couldnt improve the way it ran, mostly a timing issue as it would jump between what appeared to be limp mode and something rediculous about every two seconds(when timing it would be at roughly 10* and then randomly the timing mark would disappear) -I decided the EDIS wasnt worth it, so i picked up a stock distributor. -After much frustration and realizing i had to rewire the ECU, Lo and behold the F**ker doesnt run anymore. and no matter what i did to the timing or basic fuel parameters, it will not start. It fires off for 3 or 4 pistons every couple seconds but it will not stay running. -and finally after months and months of abuse, my year old starter finally took a **** on me (bought it in may of 2011 when i first got the car, lasted through the L24, the L28 Brutally murdered it) That brings us to today. i put a new starter in it, in order to put a timing gun on it and try desperately for what feels like the thousandth time to get it running. what actually happened was i got sidetracked in two separate motor swaps (Helping my Cooworker fix her grenaded 305 with a 350, and helping my friend put a B16 in an Austin Mini). That basically brings us to today. I was contemplating buying another starion, and LS1 swapping it for a new daily after i sold my jeep this week. When i got to thinking, why dont i just LS1 swap the Z. Aside from the fact that i think it is blasphemous, and i have been trying to keep the sleek, 6 cylinder nature of the car, and the obvious extra work involved, i could not, and cannot think of a single reason to stay with the L28. Especially because my buddy with the mini has quite a bit of fundage, and just happens to have an LS1/T56 laying around for another project that is in a semi-stalled state. So we made a deal, i take the LS1 now, and i buy him another one when hes ready to finish his project Anywho, i guess that makes things obvious, My 240 is getting an LS1, something i said i would never do not 3 weeks ago, And if anyone needs any L28 ET parts, i will be posting up a For sale thread soon, and will obviously be updating the build thread as such.

Put that in gif format and it will make an awesome avatar

cool swap youve got going on, and its good youve got the steering set up, one thing, and not necessarily to you, but to everybody Flipping a LHD Front steer rack to use as a RHD Front steer rack WILL NOT WORK. The input will be reversed (I.E you turn the wheel left and you will go right), however you can take a LHD REAR STEER rack and flip it and use it as a RHD Front steer rack and it will work properly, but then you have to figure out your mounting solution